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Your points are all very well made and in an ideal world I would fully agree with you. Unfortunately though, this is not an ideal world so I agree with you only partially. That truffle oil is labeled as that and not "truffle-flavored oil", appears to be fraudulent and not condoned by me. I wish that I had a relationship with a reputable truffle dealer and even more I wish that I could afford to foster such a relationship if I had one. I'm reasonably well off and able to order real truffles on occasion, but it certainly strains my wallet to do so. That is where your analogy with the peach fails. A really good summer peach is within the reach of most Americans on occasion. A good truffle is out of reach of all but the wealthiest Americans (and residents of other parts of the world as well). Truffle-flavored oil offers some pretty good flavor to those who haven't had the opportunity to be spoiled by the real thing. As such I think it has a legitimate place in the pantry so long as its use isn't abused or mislabeled.

As a staunch fan of WD-50, I have come to realize that that restaurant is not for everyone as people whose opinions I value have had meals that they have not enjoyed as much as I have enjoyed mine for whatever reason. I think the food there "speaks" to some people and not others - such is life. The same applies here. The food is only one element of a restaurant experience, albeit the most important one - at least for most of the people who are members of the eGullet Society. Nevertheless, the perception of a meal may and often is influenced by many elements besides the food itself. Like WD-50, Momfuku Ssam Bar is idiosyncratic enough in its delivery of the food as to effect the perception of one's meal. If the whole vibe resonates, one will likely enjoy it very much. If not, one will be less likely to fully enjoy it.

Actually, what Mimi did was what most people do. She went to a restaurant that has a lot of positive buzz, and ordered like a normal person. She wasn't impressed, and probably won't go back.Obviously we have higher expectations for Mimi Sheraton, but she's no longer the most powerful critic in New York. She's just a private citizen. Just like the rest of us, she is not obligated to pay multiple visits and eat her way through the whole menu before passing judgment. And just like the rest of us, she is not obligated to turn every restaurant visit into a research project. She's spending her own money. Whether it's $7 or $70, if she doesn't like it, she won't be back—and she'll probably tell her friends. Which is exactly what she did. Defenders of Momofuku Ssam Bar have something in common with the defenders of other unusual restaurants, like WD-50 and Blue Hill. When someone says they don't like it, the defenders instantly assume that the detractors "don't get it." Just look at the responses on those respective threads whenever someone posts a negative review. ← I harshly criticized the lunch ssam up the thread (I think the hoisin is too sweet). the problem is that Mimi didn't go to the restaurant this thread is about. she went to a Korean Chipotle. it's two different restaurants under the same roof. unless one is a culinary Platonist...I don't see what the problem is with that. Mimi went to the wrong restaurant, it's as simple as that. it's just like confusing Masa and Bar Masa. Chang doesn't have the wherewithal for two separate dining rooms in that space. so? having been to dinner there a number of times, I can tell you that "normal people" aren't ordering burritos at dinner. (except for buns and lettuce bowls, they're the only option at lunch.) I realize this is blasphemy...but it's really as simple as this: Mimi Sheraton didn't do her homework. edit: the "but she's now a private citizen and doesn't have to do her homework" line doesn't fly for the simple reason that if she was just a private citizen, we wouldn't be bothering to have this discussion. if she wasn't Mimi Sheraton no one would give a ______'s ___________ what she had to say. so whether fair or not, she's not merely a private citizen. not so long as her criticisms have her name signed to them. ← I think Mimi did do her homework. She admitted that she didn't go at the time she was "supposed to." She went at another time and had something that she particularly did not enjoy and made mention of it on a blog. Despite the fact that may not have been what the restaurant is most well known for, why shouldn't it have been good and enjoyable at whatever price point he's serving it at? I'm personally not arguing whether it is good or bad - I haven't had that item or been there for lunch. Basically all she said is that not everything Chang has a hand in turns to gold. He has some pretty good company there. BTW, a really good burrito is one of my favorite comfort foods.

Maybe not $7 or 9, but J-G does some pretty cool things at lunch for $12. I'm not saying that MSB needs to match or should match what J-G is doing at lunch, but I am simply responding to your statement.

In the trendy Cabañal district of Valencia, one can find a century old wine and tapas bar adhering to traditional foods of extremely high quality called Bodegas Casa Montaña. Earlier in the evening my wife and I met up with eGullet Society Specialist, Rogelio Enriquez and his very charming and lovely wife, who fortunately had the foresight to make a reservation at this very busy bodega. The entrance The main room. To get to the back room where we had a table and our tapas, we had to duck under the bar and head to the back. The bearded gentleman is the proprietor. On the way to our table we passed some wines and hams amongst other delights. The menu. Unfortunately, this being a Monday and a "bridge day" they were out of many items including most fresh seafood dishes. Fortunately, they still had a few delicious morsels for us to nibble on. Tuna marinated with olive oil, salt and pepper. When I saw marinated tuna on the menu and knew that they were lacking much fresh seafood I expected this to have been canned. Instead, this was the essence of what top-notch fresh ingredients can do when given the opportunity to shine. Delicious. Sliced tomatoes with salt and olive oil. When I first saw this dish I was surprised that they would be serving tomatoes that appeared to be out of season. Then I tasted them and I was transported to August at home only better. These were stunningly good tomatoes. I guess one cannot always tell a tomato by its cover either. Ajoarrioro, a brandade like cod dish that was silky and delicious - pure soul food. Another name for this dish is atascaburras, which Rogelio tells me is the more accurate name. I'm also told that there is a distinction between the dishes, though i am not sure what that is. We also had a platter of the most delicious jamon and embutidos that I have ever had. The lomo de bellota was particularly noteworthy. Unfortunately, in my excitement, I neglected to take a photo of it! We washed much of this down with this superb manzanilla. Cod-stuffed piquillo peppers - the perfect Spanish comfort food. These were so stellar we ordered another plate. Beef tips (solomillo) with green onions. A deceptively simple plate that was utterly delicious. looking at the photo right now is inspiring a real craving for this dish. It should be simple to duplicate, but I doubt that I will ever be able to. Cheese toast. I don't recall the specific kind of cheese, but once again this was comfort food at its best. The side of the building. Casa Montaña was a great experience. The food was superb. I can see why this is one of Quique Dacosta's favorite restaurants. The wine list is extensive and relatively reasonable with help from a very serious and knowledgeable sommelier (who tastes the wine before he pours it for the customer). The service itself is a bit gruff, but not unusual or particularly poor for such a busy, informal tapas bar. A return visit is a must when I come back to Valencia, a city that I very much wish to return to. maybe then they will have a wide assortment of fresh seafood and o that solomillo! After our meal we Rogelio suggested that we finish with some horchata from the village best known for it, Alboraya, where chufas or tigernuts are grown in the ground like peanuts. Horchata, served ice cold, is a mixture of the milk of the tigernuts, water and generally sugar. I had mine without added sugar and didn't miss it one bit. It was quite delicious and refreshing.

You know, it's possible — just possible — that Mimi Sheraton is more up-to-date than you give her credit for. She's not exactly new at this.It's also possible — just possible — that the bloom is wearing off of David Chang's rose, and not every reaction to his work is going to be 100% rapturous. Ed Levine's post yesterday, though not about the food, is indicative of this trend. In her note to Eater, Sheraton indicated she was aware that Ssam Bar (like many restaurants) could be different at lunch. But her argument (and how can you disagree with it?) is that if a restaurant is open to paying customers, it is open to criticism if it's serving anything less than its "best." I'll bet Mimi Sheraton isn't the only person showing up at lunch expecting a purported two-star James Beard rising-star experience. Is every guest supposed to acquire a "history of the restaurant" before they visit? A concept whose very existence is, to date, accepted by only handful of people (and even that may be stretching it). ← I thought the lunch ssam weren't very good..and I said that way up this thread (when it first opened). if Sheraton went to Ssam Bar "at lunch expecting a purported two-star James Beard rising-star experience" then clearly I'm right that she doesn't know the history of Ssam Bar. lunch is intended to be an Asian-accented version of Chipotle or Qdoba. I agree that it doesn't work. so did the public. that's why the restaurant changed dramatically (except at lunch...it's not in a business lunch area where it would be economical to serve the real menu). although I want to agree with the sentiment that a restaurant should put forth its best at every meal....in reality, educated people don't go to the Wolfgang Puck's chain (modeled on Cheesecake Factory) expecting Spago. in a different context, Giorgio Armani licensed his name to the crap Armani Exchange line, but fashionistas don't confuse them with Armani Collezioni or even Emporio Armani. ditto for Donna Karan (retired anyway)...who sold her interest in her (relatively) cheap DKNY line a long time ago. ← The difference with the restaurants you mentioned is that they are in different physical locations. This is the same location for lunch and dinner. It is not unreasonable to expect the same level of quality even if the menu itself is different. besides if the restaurant is so good and in such demand, who's to say that it wouldn't be successful serving the same quality food at lunch? Why dumb it down?

As much as I was disappointed during my meal there (it was ok, though nothing incredible) and think the restaurant may very well be over-rated, that is not the way I read the Levine piece at all. He still seems to be in the rapturous camp to me.

I like to celebrate milestones with vintage wines from the milestone year. Given that someone I know was born in 1960, I am on the lookout for a great wine from that vintage. So far I have been stumped with Madeira being one of the few possibilities that I have been able to identify. Any thoughts or suggestions?

This is something that I have been quite remiss about as I rarely venture to the central or western parts of the state. I will have to try to make the time to visit my own backyard!

Great report! I am eagerly awaiting delivery of some Alvear PX from the 2004 vintage. I think I will try a bottle soon and then lay the rest away. I am tempted to try to find some of that 1959.

They give you time to eat nowadays? Seriously, trail mix is one of your better bets as are fruit such as apples and oranges that can be washed and peeled. Beware of treats like chocolate that can melt and leave a mess. That might be better off in a backpack than in your white coat pocket. Little bits of cheese in a wrapper can come in handy. Don't forget your little bottle of Purell though if you are going to be snacking while in clinical situations. Good luck!

I agree that I have yet to have a delicious domestic mozzarella, but I have had wonderful fiori di latte.

I concur with Ron. What kai-m described could not be further from my experience. The restaurant is elegant, but quite relaxed and comfortable. It is anything but "stiif" or "cold as ice."

But if you and I don't spend that money they won't continue to improve. The difference now and ten years ago is amazing. I expect it to only get better in the next ten years.

Nice, appetizing shots. i may need to plan a return visit sooner rather than later!

Both restaurants are indeed very charming. The location within Alicante is superb as they sit within a block of the esplanade in the heart of town. That would be fun! Unfortunately, I don't see that happening anytime soon, but I do know of at least two culinary tours to Spain that are excellent. One is the CIA/Viking World of Flavors Travel Program Tour to Spain led by Nancy Harmon Jenkins. Another is led by eGullet Society Member Gerry Dawes, who gave me some great feedback and input into my own trip.

We moved back over to Monastrell where Chef San Roman delivered on her promise of a light, yet interesting and delicious meal. Cream of Pumpkin with Saffron and Croqueta of Chorizo Iberico. Delightful and delicious - we were off to a good start. The croqueta was crisp on the outside and soft and creamy inside. San Roman has a particular reputation as a master of saffron. It showed in the crema. The wine selected for us by the sommelier. It was crisp, light and delicious working perfectly with the food. Oysters with Cucumber in Saffron and Lemon Soup. The flavors in this dish were fresh and vibrant without overpowering the essential elements of the oyster - excellent. Mixed Spring Greens with Black Truffle. The truffle was amongst the last of the season. This beautiful and colorful dish resonated of the spring. Squid Sandwich with All i Oli of Ink and Onion Sofrito. This was phenomenal - one of the top three or four dishes of our trip for sure. The squid, tender, sweet and juicy lay between two perfectly crisp and flavorful slivers of bread. Deceptively simple appearing, but simply perfect. Ragu of Veal Sweetbreads with Morels and Red Shrimp. This dish was given to my wife. Of course I tasted it. It was an inspired and delicious version of mar y montaña. Pig Trotters with Foie, Black truffle and Pistachios. I would have been very disappointed to have come to Northeastern Spain and not have a single dish of trotters. This delicious dish did not disappoint. Orange, Coconut and Saffron Ice Creams. Tasty and of course, creamy. These are all representative of the region. Merlot grape and Monastrell wine with Crumbs. This was a novel and tasty dessert. Gianduja, Baba with Coffee and Hennesy Foam. Delicious. Coconut and Saffron Marshmallows. A nice way to finish a great meal that re-invigorated our taste buds and stomachs. Chef San Roman absolutely delivered on her promise as the food was all delicious, yet not too heavy or too much. Monastrell should be a destination for anyone interested in food in Alicante.

Perfectly crisped fish skin is one of life's great pleasures.

One of the main reasons for our visit to Spain this year was to visit some of the restaurants and foods that we discovered at The CIA's World of Flavors Conference on Spain and the World table this past November. One of the chefs and restaurants we encountered that piqued our interest was Maria Jose San Roman and her restaurant Monastrell in Alicante. We made it to the restaurant on Wednesday evening May 2nd for a 10PM reservation where we met up with eGullet Society member Kathleen Berger (bergerka), a friend from NYC and an American expat currently living in Madrid. I will start by saying that that dinner culminated what may have been the single best day of eating from morning to night of my entire life. We started that morning at a little kiosk in the Mercado Central of Valencia, where I had the most perfect tortilla I ever had. A bit later we followed with lunch at Ca Sento and then dinner here. We met up at Monastrell at our appointed hour and said hello to Chef San Roman. I notified her that my wife and I would like to eat light that evening as we had a big lunch that day. The question was which of her restaurants should we dine at - the more formal (though hardly "formal") Monastrell or her traditional Taberna del Gourmet located a couple of doors down the street. Chef San Roman solved our dilemma by inviting us to check out the Taberna and have a few nibbles over there before returning for a light dinner at Monastrell. The main prep area of Taberna. A refrigerated holding area for mariscos. Maria Jose San Roman is on the right. In addition to being a superb chef, she speaks perfect English. This really intrigued me. I have never seen anything like this array of dried seafood items before. Unfortunately I didn't really pay attention to it too closely until I looked at my photos. There is a fish, skate, octopus and I'm not sure what else in there. If anyone has any insight into how these are used I would appreciate reading it. A nice collection of jamones. Delicious chorizo de bellota with a little hot pimenton bite. Chef pouring a little Jerez for us. We could have stayed here for awhile, but it was time to return next door. to be continued...

Thanks Bryan. The degustation at Ca Sento was 110 Euros per person. We arrived at Barcelona airport on Saturday morning where we were met by our friends who took us back to their home for a brief rest. We had a lovely lunch at Aligue in Manresa that afternoon and a delicious light dinner at their home that night. Sunday we had our lunch at L'Esguard and another light dinner at our friends home. Monday we rented a car at Barcelona airport and drove south to Valencia, having a delightful paella lunch at Levante. Later that evening we met Rogelio and his lovely wife in Valencia and had a great light dinner at Casa Montaña. Tuesday we drove to Denia for lunch at El Poblet. We skipped dinner that night. Wednesday we had breakfast at the Mercado Central, lunch at Ca Sento then drove to Alicante, where we met up with Kathleen Berger at the excellent Monastrell. Thursday we drove back to Catalunya stopping for a light lunch along the way. Dinner was at Can Roca. Friday we drove intp Barcelona to visit the Boqueria and had a light lunch at Kiosk Universal, after which we drove to Roses for dinner at elBulli. The next morning we drove back to Barcelona airport for our flight home. Phew. That pales compared to some of our heartier culinary diners, but then I am not as young as I used to be!

I'll add another point. I mentioned that US soft cheeses in general are not up to the quality of European cheeses. Unfortunately. the two areas are tending towards a merge. I say unfortunately because it is not necessarily due to the improving quality of US soft cheeses (although they are improving), but because European cheeses are deteriorating towards American cheeses as the EU adopts American style food safety rules such as pasteurization of milk prior to making cheese as discussed on this topic..

I've been enjoying some excellent local soft cheeses in upstate NY. These tend to be made from either goat or sheep's milk. One from Nettle Meadow is called Kurnik and I have enjoyed several goat cheeses from Sweet Spring Farm in Argyle, N.Y. that I purchase at my local Farmers Market. I will agree that it is more difficult to get a good soft cheese after shipping though certainly not impossible. I will also agree that in general US soft cheese quality doesn't hold a candle to Europe or even Quebec, but I daresay that it is much better than you make it out to be, Steven.

On the other hand, tomato sauce and strawberry preserves taste pretty good all year 'round without diminishing the joy of the first fresh arrivals of the real stuff at the local markets. Same with truffle oil, I'd suggest. ← If you're eating whole truffles out of hand like an apple, sure. Most of the time people use truffle oil in place of the real thing rather than as you suggest in a completely different preparation. ← The biggest reason people use truffle oil in place of truffles is cost. Truffle oil provides a reasonable facsimile of truffles at a fraction of the cost. The problem is not with truffle oil, but with its occasional overuse and abuse. All else being equal would I prefer fresh top-quality truffles? Of course, but it is rare that all else is equal. If I am at a restaurant where I trust the quality of the truffles, I am happy to pay a premium for them on occasion, but if not, I'd rather take the truffle oil and skip the premium.

Robert, you have always been a champion of "the informed diner" and have always provided us with great information. I hope to continue to glean pearls of wisdom from your experience.

Lunch May 2, 2007 This was probably the meal that my wife and I enjoyed the most during our week in Spain. It was essentially perfect and one of the finest meals that I have enjoyed in my life so far. It certainly didn't hurt that my wife and I were both relaxed, hungry and feeling entirely well (unlike my dinner at elBulli when I unfortunately was feeling less than perfect and our dinner at Can Roca, when we were tired and stressed having just driven up through foul weather from Alicante). Having spent the morning at The Turia Gardens, el Mercado Central, La Lonja and then watching the boats leave to race for the Louis Vuitton Cup as part of the Challenge for the Ameroca's Cup, we were ready for a top-notch meal and we got it. The entrance to the restaurant. The Menu - we opted for the degustation substituting fideuas for the rice dish. The floral centerpiece. Bread - crusty and delicious. The wine for the first 2/3 of our meal was the crisp and delicious 2005 Rueda from Belondrade y Lurton. Boquerones with Tomato. This was a wonderful starter with the best boquerones - vinegar-cured anchovies- that I ever had. They were in perfect balance with the tomatoes, the olive oil and the little toast. Deceptively simple, this was utterly delicious. Foie Gras Puree with Calvados gelee. This was a delicious, classic combination very well done, but I have to laugh having read Rogelio's question below asking why just about every Spanish restaurant feels the need to serve foie gras. I am certainly not complaining and this was a particularly fine example, but it is a good question. If any restaurant can get away without serving it it would be Ca Sento. Galician oyster with apple and lemon foam. This dish just simply worked. Simple, perfect Denia prawns. caviar with a base of butter and egg surrounded by a gelled consomme of ham. This was by far the most vanguardist dish of the afternoon. Served hot, I thought it was excellent and a good way to mix in some modern amongst the mostly traditional cooking on the menu. Cigalas a la Plancha with a Salt Crust. This was an extra that I asked for and I am glad that I did as this was probably the single most delicious thing that I ate on this trip and one of the most perfect things i have ever eaten. The langoustine was perfectly tender, moist and sweet. I will take a moment to acknowledge our waiter, Giacomo (yes, he is Italian from Milano), who was simply outstanding. He was helpful, friendly, informative and above-all attentive without being obsequious or overbearing. I have never received better service from an individual. Bluefin Tuna Belly with Eggplant Puree and Ginger. Very similar to dishes mentioned upthread, this was stunningly good. When it was brought to the table, my wife and I both thought it was pork when we first looked at it. Instead it was about as excellent as a cooked piece of tuna can be. The crust was perfectly seared and crisped with the juicy, silken meat nestled within. The flavors from the eggplant and ginger were good contributors without overwhelming the flavorful tuna. Lubina (sea bass) with Tender Onion, Escabeche, Pine Nuts and a Shrimp. Once again the fish was cooked perfectly as was the skin. The contrasting tectures of crisp skin and melt-in-your mouth fish were sublime. Again the surrounding flavors complemented without overwhelming. Fidueas with a Shellfish (primarily crab and shrimp) Stock. Simply marvelous, this dish competed with the cigala for dish of the trip. Though every dish on the menu was excellent without a single disappointment, the two favorite dishes of the meal were either an addition or a replacement from the menu. Though I am a big fan of degustations, especially at restaurants that I am unlikely to be able to return to for an extended period, these dishes support those who argue in favor of the "informed diner" carefully selecting dishes a la carte. That being said, in this instance i was able to have my cake and eat it too. At this point we moved on to the 2004 Finca Terrerazzo from Mustiguillo. Lamb with Polenta and Pancreas in its own Juice. The lamb had a covering of bread and fines herbs. The pancreas was reminiscent of sweetbreads. While this may have been an obligatory meat course, it was quite delicious and a great match with the wine. Strawberries with Coconut Ice Cream. This was very good, but the most mundane dish of the meal. We were now each served a glass of a dry 30y/o Amontillado de Jerez. Torrija (French Toast) with cafe con Leche Ice Cream and plum sauce. This was simple and delicious. A photo of a nearby table at the end of our meal.