docsconz

There is some very fine work there!

The lack of a reservation is another element that I didn't put in to the discussion in my previous post. That narrows the field down even further. This works at restaurants that are either not popular enough to be filled or restaurants that are so popular that it is a badge of honor to wait at. After awhile, this becomes old, although a place that fits many of the defined criteria would be Balthazar, although it is modeled on the formula of a classic French bistro.

Given this definition let's look at specific restaurants to see how they fit. All the examples I will cite are chef driven and restaurants that I have personally dined at. Momofuku - has a combination of haute cooking (e.g. uni dish) and rustic street food (e.g. ssam) in a very informal, casual atmosphere. This fits as it should as it is the model the definition was constructed around. Room 4 Dessert - informal, casual and haute - yes. Rustic? I don't see it. Bouley Upstairs - informal, casual and haute - yes. Rustic? I don't see it here either. Blue Hill at Stone Barns - haute and rustic - yes. Informal and casual - though it is by no means stuffy nor classicly formal, it is not informal as it abides by the luxuries of haute cuisine. WD-50 - Haute and informal - yes. Rustic - no. elBulli - see BH@SB - same for Alinea. minibar - see R4D Topolobampo/Frontera Grill - incorporates both formal and casual, haute and rustic within the confines of a single restaurant though the styles are indeed segregated within that restaurant. In both cases it still conforms to traditional restaurant approaches. Casa Mono - This actually fits the definition, though it remains a classic restaurant of a particular style. It didn't really break new ground other than being one of the first to popularize Spanish "tapas plus" in NYC. L'Epi Dupin - This also fits the definition, though it started in the early to mid 1990'2 in Paris and fits into the category of "haute bistro" Chez Panisse Cafe and Zuni Cafe - both clearly fit into rustic and casual. Though the haute is debatable, the quality of the cooking has been superb over the years and may be considered the forerunners of this trend in the US. The styles of food vary amongst the restaurants and some conform more or less to traditional models. Based on the definition given here, I still don't see this as a new phenomenon unless tightened to the point of exclusion and irrelevance. If and when more restaurants spring up to emulate the specific style of Momfuku this can have real import as a movement or style. Until then, I see it as too generic and not new enough to be considered significant as a "new" paradigm. Of course, that can and might change and those who are calling it a new paradigm may in fact be quite prescient. For my part, I think that what Momofuku is doing is a fad rather than a movement as I don't think that certain elements of the service or lack there-of will translate well across the board. At this point the food produced is intriguing and novel enough and the place has enough of a vibe to transcend the lack of some comforts despite its not so inexpensive prices. Though my experience there was flawed, I can understand its appeal to some people. Whether that appeal will stand the test of time is another question altogether.

If that is indeed part of the point, I think the point is cheapened as it is simply trying to find the least common denominator of a vast array of styles. As much as the term "Molecular gastronomy" doesn't really fit what it was trying to describe, at least it was trying to put a handle on a specific subset of cuisine. The imprecision of the term "new paradigm" as I am understanding it based on this discussion is so broad as to be almost (but not quite meaningless) as it encompasses just about anything that doesn't fit into a traditional restaurant classification. Given that definition, all the fine dining restaurants that are tasting menu driven like elBulli, Alinea, minibar, etc. really would fit into "new paradigm" as they are not traditional restaurant styles even if they do incorporate many or all of the typical trappings of traditional fine dining. If the definition is tightened such that it takes all of the characteristics of Momofuku as defining then it becomes meaningless because there really aren't too many other restaurants (if any) that really fit that tight of a definition.

This strikes me as being more along the lines of L'Atelier than Momofuku. From the link above: One of the problems I have with the paradigm of a new paradigm is that it is really all over the place. The only thing consistent about it is that it does not fit into the mold of a traditional restaurant category. The realizations are all over the board, whether examples could include Momofuku, R4D, Grayz, Tailor, the late version of Varietal or wherever.

It should be about a 4.5-5 hour drive to Saratoga Springs from Philadelphia. Given your criteria for local food, Beekman St. Bistro in Saratoga might fit the bill. Chez Sophie might also do the trick.

There are a number of really good food photographers here on eGullet, some of whom you have mentioned. Two of the very best are Philadining and Yellow Truffle. One of the very best though is Harlan Turk who doesn't so much photograph food as he does food people. His photos of this year's Beard Awards are simply sensational.

What route are you taking and when are you planning to arrive? Time available to dine? Cost parameters? Your best and widest variety of choices will be Saratoga Springs, although there are some good options further north. Brunetto's or The Grist Mill in Warrensburg are good and not out of your way if you are taking I87.

I don't mind a little "saltiness" in a red wine, especially when drinking it with food. Some wines that stand out in my memory in this regard are some Mexican wines from a region in Baja whose name eludes me at the moment. They weren't "salty" though they tasted of salt. I enjoyed them.

It has been approximately 8 to 10 years since I was there, but I was surprised to find that to be the case for Coturri in Sonoma. That along with their biodynamic methods may at least partially explain their inconsistencies. At their best, their zins are possibly the best I've ever had. Unfortunately, they are not always at their best.

My wife and I practically lived on Empre Szechuan in the early to mid 80's when I was in Med School at Columbia. We tended to frequent the one on Broadway around 98th if I recall correctly. I always particularly enjoyed their dried string beans and cold sesame noodles amongst other dishes. It was all that! This should be fun!

I'll put in another vote for lunch at Jean-Georges. It won't bust your wallet for a hgh-end place and it is close to Carnegie Hall and Piano Row (57th St.)

Not all is golden in the world of "haute cheap." According to Eater.com A description of the now defunct restaurant from Citysearch: I never even heard of this restaurant, but it seems to have at least tried to fit the paradigm of haute cheap. For whatever reason(s) it wasn't successful. Of note is the quote that "Charlie is focusing on larger properties now." It can't be easy being successful with an haute cheap concept as haute ingredients aren't cheap, especially if they are of at least decent quality and rents in NY aren't cheap. Places like Momofuku must make their money on certain dishes using other dishes to attract customers. Either that or serving spoons are really the major expense item for most restaurants and by limiting them they save a bundle - enough to operate the way they do.

Maybe because I grew up in NYC and am used to that kind of humor, but as far as this piece is concerned I agree with busboy on his take. I love the ferry Plaza Market and Richman captures it from both sides. It is special and precious, but by its specialness and preciousness it can elicit some gentle ribbing, which is all I see in this piece. Perhaps people are more sensitive because of the whole Petrini debacle and the Richman piece on N.O.?

Here's a take on it by david Pogue in today's NYT. He says that it is pretty cool, but foresees a chicken and egg situation hindering its adoption as it is coolest with associated technologies such as cell phones and camera, but these likely won't be produced to any degree until there is a critical mass of these computers out and about. As for food related applications he describes these: Just what we need - a group of people dining out together and each playing their own video games!

Just to be clear, I did not assert that the NY dining scene is dull, just that not many of the new openings are particularly exciting to me. There is still plenty of good food to be had in NYC. If being spoonless is part of the new paradigm then keep it because that doesn't make any sense as a viable element. I have no problem at all with paring down some of the embellishments of fine dining, but basic hygiene is not one of them. Either provide proper serving utensils or prepare the dishes in such a way that they aren't needed. The church of "Alto-Sham?"

I think I like "haute cheap" more than "new paradigm" because that brings together disparate styles and I can buy that being more of a specific trend though that did not start with Momofuku. Momofuku is an idiosyncratic version of "haute cheap". While it may someday be considered a trend-setter, I don't see it yet.

...and Tailor still isn't open. BTW, that is a restaurant that I am anxiously looking forward to and will be sure to include during my next visit to the city. Whether it fits into any paradigm remains to be seen. P*ong is a place that I would very much like to try as well. Adour, very much an "old paradigm" restaurant should be opening late this summer. That should be interesting as well. One of my biggest issues with the "new paradigm" at Momofuku was the lack of serving utensils and odd and difficult presentations for dishes that were meant to be shared but as a result were somewhat difficult to share. Maybe I would have liked it better if I was by myself at the counter where those elements wouldn't have been issues.

In Sicily find yourself around the docks of Mondello and keep an eye out for fresh uni. You will know it by virtue of the fact that they are scooping it directly from the sea urchins. As Robert Brown said, do not shortchange the seafood - especially in Sicily and Naples. While the food in Positano is not particularly extraordinary (it isn't bad) go see it as it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Nearby is Sant'Agata de Due Golfi where you can find the restaurant Don Alfonso 1890, which should provide a fix for your alta cucina needs.

The meals tend to be very receptive to white wines, especially the first 2/3 or so. This is a good time to explore Spanish wines and they do a good job of providing interesting wines that are reasonable matches for the food. I believe that I listed the wines I had in my posts. If you go with their suggestions, I don't think that you will be disappointed If it makes you more comfortable you can give them price parameters, but my experience is such that the wines they have recommended have been reasonable. Generally speaking for the whites, cavas, albariños, and verdejos from Rueda are all excellent and safe choices although there are some good local whites as well in addition to cavas. The local reds are good too.

That's because you're stuck in the old paradigm! ← Maybe!

There are a lot of openings, but not many that have really caught my attention to compel me to plan a trip to the city. Sure, there are plenty that I would be happy to try if I lived there, but for real buzz, I'd say that it is lacking compared to previous years. Quantity does not necessarily equal quality. I think that this is one reason that Momofuku has received all the attention that it has.

Wow, that is big news, but that beats them closing altogether which has been rumored.

Here is an article from today's NYT by Peter Kaminsky on Maria José San Roman and her use of saffron. Like my visit to Monastrell, this article was borne from the CIA Conference this past November on "Spain and the World Table."

It may be an issue with tip distribution. Perhaps the earlier bartender tends to get stiffed? It probably makes sense to settle with each bartender individually, but if one leaves and doesn't come to you to settle, I don't see that as being your fault.