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No, we only went to the cafe. This was my first visit too. What I mean when I say "I was expecting more" is that I thought the food would be something I couldnt replicate at home. I thought it would be just so delicious, so fantastic that with my cooking skills( which are pretty damn good), I couldnt replicate it. The quality of the food was fantastic. But, I guess I expect that in Northern California. I could never find a meal like that in SW Ontario. But, I lived in Southern California for 15yrs before moving here and I've made fabulous, wonderful meals with produce from The Santa Monica Farmer's Market. As I said, I could make the same meal with the produce I saw at The Ferry Building and Marin Market. Another thing that bugged me was the service. I thought it was extremely slow and unattentive. I hated that they added a 17% service charge on the tab because the service we received didnt warrant that amount. Btw, I didnt post a picture or even take one of the garden salad my spouse had. It was just some baby lettuce with a vinaigrette. My spouse said something to the effect of " this reminds me of the mix we get at a grocery store back home. But, But, But, I said " Its organic and local and blah, blah, blah...... ← If you have access to unusual top quality ingredients and are a good cook, Chez Panisse's food should be easily replicatable. However, very few restaurants, let alone individuals consistently have access to the quality ingredients that CP does. To their credit, they manipulate those ingredients relatively minimally and whatever they do, they allow those ingredients to shine. The restaurant has never really been about difficult techniques as far as I know. I've been to the Cafe twice and loved the pristine meals each time. I haven't yet been downstairs, but I hope to rectify that soon.

If the octopus dish at last week's Rising Stars Review is any indication you can add 15 East to that list. It was spectacular and one of the highlights of the evening.

I got to Tailor for an after-party for the Starchefs International Chefs Congress, though unfortunately, I didn't get to try any food there. The drinks rocked though. I also liked the space very much. The upstairs dining room is actually quite elegant, but also appears to be quite comfortable. The kitchen is reasonably spacious, well appointed and has to have one of the best sound systems around. I can't wait until I can back there to actually eat!

David Arnold, an Instructor at The French Culinary Institute, who wrote that article in Food Arts, was a significant participant at the Congress (amongst other things, he assisted Johnny Iuzzini with his demo), but I did not hear him or anyone else discuss that method at all. I would not be surprised, however, that if that method gains steam in chef circles, to see David presenting it at a future ICC.

Johnny Iuzzini followed Pichet Ong on the main stage providing a demonstration on using an ingredient in multiple, distinct ways for specific desserts. Familiar to the many fans of the restaurant Jean-George, Johnny’s Dessert 4-Play consists of 4 small, individualized desserts playing off a single principle ingredient and served together. To be successful, each dessert element must have a unique sensibility, but maintain harmony through flavor and texture with the other three in the presentation. The main stage presentations were overlapped by the hands-on workshops, such that Iuzzini’s presentation started while the first set of workshops were on-going and finished after the next set had commenced. In addition to the four workshop areas already mentioned, wine tasting seminars joined the available array of workshops. Alas, I was unable to partake of Ultimate Pairings as given by Fred Dexheimer of T. Edward Wines in NYC. Unfortunately, another workshop I could not get to was that of mixologist Todd Thrasher of The PX and Restaurant Eve in Arlington, VA. His workshop was one that would likely have been of great interest to eGullet Society Staff member John Deragon, who has developed quite a reputation for concocting his own bitters and resurrecting recipes for old-time bitters. Thrasher’s topic was entitled Bitters and Tonics from Scratch. Shortly after this workshop, however, Thrasher could be found in the prep kitchen tediously preparing tomato water for the next evening’s Tomato Water Bloody Mary, perhaps the best version of that drink ever to cross my lips. I was also unable to attend Sous Vide, The Right Way Featuring DayMark, Multivac and Techne with Chef Shea Gallante of Cru in NYC. I did, however, get to meet Chefs Michael Cimarusti and Adrian Vasquez of Providence in LA. Who led a workshop on Working with Australian Fish at which he had the largest rock lobster that I have ever seen. Whether it was that very one or more likely another, I was fortunate to dine on a course composed of Chef Cimarusti’s Australian rock lobster at dinner that night. Chef vasquez is on the left and Chef Cimarusti is to the right in the photo. Most of my time after my interview with Chef Trabocchi was spent at the demonstration of Chef Carmen Titita Ramirez Degollado of the El Bajio restaurants in Mexico City. I had the pleasure of dining at the original El Bajio during a recent trip to Mexico as was chronicled here. Chef Degollado was unavailable at that time, so it was a particular pleasure to meet her here. She prepared traditional Mexican salsas including her famous Salsa Negra made with dried black chipotle mecos. There was a great give and take at this workshop between Chef Degollado and chefs such as Dimitri Hidalgo Miña from Quito, Ecuador and Hector Santiago of Pura Vida in Atlanta.

This sounds like a valuable workshop. I think chefs have been slow to pick up on the distinction between sous-vide cooking and low-temperature cooking. They can overlap, however they are not synonymous. I hope the chefs who attended this workshop will start a trend and stop using the term sous vide as a synonym for low-temperature cooking. Was Winston (manufacturer of the CVap) somehow involved in the presentation? I'm wondering because it seems odd to focus the workshop on this one device, when there are other low-temperature cooking methods that are also interesting (such as using oil instead of water in a recirculating bath, as recently discussed in Food Arts). Perhaps it was just a question of time limits and the need for focus, though. ← Winston Industries was a major sponsor of the Congress for the second year in a row. It appeared that the overall sponsorship of the Congress was significantly up from last year when it was pretty good as well. This particular device, however, seemed to be a favorite of many chefs among the hosts and presenters as well as those simply attending. To directly answer your question, the representatives from Winston directly assisted in the workshop.I would stress though that this workshop and specific technique was one amongst a wide variety demonstrated. I did not see or hear of anyone using oil for a sous vide circulation bath.

I was extremely impressed by Chef Yamamoto. That presentation (which I will get to in time) vaulted Ryugin onto my short list of must get-to restaurants. There certainly seemed to be no lack of funds at his disposal

My report on the 2nd annual Starchefs International Chefs Congress can be found here. Please defer any further comments about this Congress to that topic.

The blue September sky resembled another six years earlier, another that led to a day of death and destruction in the very same location, a location that came to be known as Ground Zero. The memory of that day of sadness and tragedy will remain always, but the area around Ground Zero is starting to rise again with a renewed spirit. Helping to feed that renewed spirit, the second annual Starchefs International Chefs Congress, was held from September 16th through the 18th at 7 World Trade Center, a building that has arisen like a phoenix from the ashes of unspeakable horror. The event was held on the top two floors of this as yet unfinished building. The circumferential floor –to-ceiling windows showed remarkable views of what is, as well as what is no longer part of New York City with one view peering achingly down upon the heart of Ground Zero itself. However, within those walls and windows an event of nurturing took place as chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, suppliers, manufacturers and other food professionals gathered to learn from and connect with each other in an environment conducive to both. Some views from the Congress With the cost of a three-day pass for chefs at a very reasonable $250 and a one-day pass at $150, attendance would essentially double over last year before the Congress would be done. From the moment of registration preceding the 12-noon commencement of the Congress on the 16th, the excitement in the air was palpable. Old friends were greeting each other warmly and new friends were being made. In the meantime, the prep kitchen under the direction of George Mendes and Asbel Reyes had already been in full swing for some time as presenting chefs and their assistants popped into the industrial loft-like space to finish the preparations for their upcoming presentations. Asbel Reyes directs Pichet Ong in the prep kitchen. Last Year's Congress, the inaugural one, packed two days full of demonstrations, discussions and delights. This year, the main two days of the Congress were packed just as tightly, but an additional day was scheduled and was packed to the brim as well. The schedule for this day was a bit different than last year’s and that of the following two days as it included a wide variety of contemporaneous hands-on workshops by chefs and mixologists in addition to a panel discussion and various presentations including one by Ann Cooper on the largely sorry state of contemporary school lunch programs. The latter presentation culminated in a lunch of either current typical school lunch fare or “the school lunch of the future” as prepared by Barton Seaver from Washington, D.C.'s Hook. Recipients were randomly divided into one lunch or the other, however, the vast majority of those with tickets for the contemporary fare of cut out chicken nuggets and other delights opted for the more attractive grass-fed beef burger with tomato, lettuce and sweet potato sticks. The object of this exercise was to alert chefs of the situation that is made particularly difficult due to the paltry financing school lunch programs receive and the lack of imagination invested in the programs. The hope was that this would be a clarion call to chefs to become involved at this level of the community. School lunches: Current and Model The main schedule began around 12PM on the 51st floor with Pichet Ong blurring the lines between sweet and savory with his presentation entitled P*#$stry as he incorporated traditionally savory ingredients into sweet courses and vice versa. Simultaneous to that presentation, hands-on workshops started in 4 separate draped-off venues throughout the floor. The workshops, limited in availability and at an additional cost, were all enticing and extremely difficult to choose between. While I will mention and give a brief synopsis of the demonstrations and workshops presented, I will focus on the ones I was able to experience to some degree. Mixologist Adam Seger aka “El Presidente” from Chicago’s Nacional 27, got the ball rolling on the cocktail front with a workshop entitled: Culinary Mixology: Blurring the Line Between Market-Inspired Cookery and Seasonal Drink Mixing. In this workshop, Seger demonstrated techniques and uses for fresh fruit, herbs and vegetables in infused syrups based primarily on local, seasonal ingredients. At this presentation, Seger infused a simple syrup with fresh rosemary that he used along with Appleton Estate Jamaican rum and fresh blueberries to make a “Blueberry-Rosemary Caipiruva.” He muddled lime and blueberries in a 12oz rocks glass, added rosemary simple syrup, the rum and crushed ice and shook well. The drink is garnished with a sprig of rosemary. As with all the other cocktails demonstrated during the workshops, this was available the following night at the Starchefs ICC Cocktail party. Chef Steven Pyles from Dallas with his eponymous restaurant, demonstrated the use of various chilies and how to layer and control the flavors and capsaicins using a Vita-Prep blender. The recipe he prepared, “Ceviche of Bronzini with Vanilla-Roasted Fennel and Almond Gazpacho”, featured the use of aji mirasol chilies from Peru. Credited as the inventor of sous vide cooking, Bruno Goussault, along with Bruno Bertin both of Cuisine Solutions in Alexandria, VA, presented a workshop using low temperature cooking with a CVap Cook & Hold. This device uses a tightly controlled temperature steam environment that can be utilized in lieu of a water bath. The vacuum sealed plastic bag necessary for cooking sous vide in a water bath is not required here though it can be used, especially as a means to incorporate flavor elements. Similar results can be achieved by wrapping the protein along with flavor marinade elements in plastic wrap reducing potential botulism concerns secondary to the anaerobic environment of the vacuum seal. Given the current debate on tradition vs. evolution in Italian cuisine, I could not miss the presentation/demonstration by Fabio Trabocchi late of Maestro in Arlington, VA, and now of Fiamma in NYC, entitled Italian Cuisine: Tradition and Evolution. The workshop started with food. Each participant received a plate that combined a totally traditional Italian combination of a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano along with a slice of prosciutto di Parma, several drops of Aceto Balsamico di Modena Tradizionale and a dash of Manni olive oil along with Parmigiano-Reggiano Ice Cream with Prosciutto di Parma Tuile. The tuile consisted of dehydrated prosciutto along with some finely crumbled hazelnuts. The remainder of the workshop consisted of a demonstration of the techniques used to make the dish. The principle device used for the ice cream was of course the Pacojet, a device used routinely through the Congress. Trabocchi chose this dish to illustrate his approach to creativity within a strong culinary tradition, because he considers Parmiggiano-Reggiano and prosciutto di Parma as tow classic pillars of Italian cuisine. As a chef working in the world of fine dining he feels the need and has the desire to put his stamp on the food that comes out of his kitchen. His food is creative in the line of Gualtiero Marchesi and other contemporary Italian chefs. Trabocchi feels that it is necessary to respect tradition though he does not feel beholden to it. I hope to expand upon these ideas and a few others through an interview I did with Chef Trabocchi following this workshop. Here is a link to a couple more photos from this workshop. I will continue to post this report in segments as I can. Disclosure: I was invited to attend and cover the Congress with a Media Pass provided at no cost to myself. Personal expenses outside of the Congress itself including but not limited to transportation, housing and external meals were not provided by Starchefs. Edited to include Disclosure.

I will post a link here when it is posted. Unfortunately, that might be awhile.

I hope to have the beginning of my report up today I appreciate everyone's patience. When I post, it will be in a separate topic located in the Restaurant Life Forum in that he topic goes well beyond New York. I will post the initial link in this topic. For anyone else who was there (and i know that there were many of you ) I will appreciate your insights and contributions as well as I was busy taking pictures most of the time. I did indeed have the pleasure to see and meet both Chef Michael Cimarusti and Chef Adrian Vasquez from Providence. I also had the pleasure to eat an outstanding rock lobster dish of Chef Cimarusti's at a Starchefs dinner Sunday night. townsend, you are correct about the fish tank aerator. I believe that they used it with a soecial tall conical container that they adapted themselves. I will post a photo(s) later.In the meantime, you can get an idea of a more primitive approach to it here when it was presented at a workshop during Spain and the World Table at CIA's World of Flavors Conference last November.

The word "bovin" is the singular of "bovines" in French, the translation of bovine. My guess is that it would be some sort of beef, veal, ox, buffalo or other bovine dish served with potatoes - perhaps a stew? I know that you are looking for something more specific, but that is the best that I could come up with. Does Escoffier ever use the term?

No doubt you are correct, Adam, although I posit that even in the culinary world things often go in cycles. witness the return of cocktails and fat-laden pork amongst other things. I even saw a Baked Alaska on After Hours with Daniel(Boulud) on tv tonight.

I don't believe that it was intended as such. Ingredient wise, it was somewhat of a mirror to the basic version, although the ingredients received a fair amount of manipulation. The presentation was decidedly modern.

Here's a photo I took at the Starchef's 2nd Annual International Chefs Congress in NYC this past week of Fabio Trabocchi (now of Fiamma in NYC) plating a dish that combines traditional and modern versions on the same plate. ...and here is the plated dish: On the bottom of the photo is the classic chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano with prosciutto di Parma, drops of balsamico tradizionale di Modena and Manni olive oil. At the top of the photo is the modern variant of Parmigiano Reggiano Ice Cream with Prosciutto di Parma Tuile. Both approaches were in fact delicious and the dish was enhanced by the fact that both were there. The contrast kept things playful and made it more interesting. I had the opportunity to interview Chef Trabocchi after his workshop that coincidentally was entitled Italian Cuisine: Tradition and Evolution. Of course with this topic in mind, I took the opportunity to ask him more specific questions about this. I will place a link in this topic after the interview is posted.

I placed my order as well. Who did the photography?

The Congress left me with a lot to work with. I have been busy going through photos, notes and recordings. It will be difficult to do the event justice.

In case you missed Chef Johnny Mac earlier in the week, it was for good reason as he helped staff the prep kitchen at the Starchefs's 2nd Annual International Chefs Congress in NYC: . Along with Chef Johnny are Chefs David Bouley and George Mendes who is the Culinary Director for the Congress.

Here's a photo from a panel at the Starchefs 2nd Annual International Chefs Congress in NYC entitled From Kitchen to Cookbook that Chef Achatz participated in. The panel was all about publishing chef inspired cookbooks. Chef Achatz and the Alinea team will be self-publishing a book that will be distributed by ten Speed Press. Chef Achatz is truly an amazing human being. His spirit and energy are inspiring. Though he had been originally scheduled to give a demonstration during the Congress, he canceled well in advance secondary to uncertainty as to how he might be feeling. He told me that he regretted having done so, but will be sure to present next year. I am looking forward to it.

Great photos, Mark. I'm sorry you weren't crazy about the charred corn ravioli. I had them a year ago and recall them as a spectacular dish - one of the very best I had in 2006.

Winston Industries' C-Vap has been quite the rage in many top professional kitchens over the past year or so in addition to Jean-George's. Wylie Dufresne, for example, uses this in lieu of sous vide cooking with a water bath. Temperature control is apparently extremely precise and proteins can be cooked to temperature as with a water bath. In lieu of the plastic bag they can simply be wrapped in plastic theoretically avoiding a completely anaerobic environment that might be conducive to botulism. The device and techniques associated with it probably deserves its own topic if it doesn't already have one.

That depends. In NYC and in my experience, "gyros" are the name generally used for what is described by Elie as "shawarma." In fact, the only "gyros" that I have ever had had the stacked meat. Of course, that may be a function of misnaming in the US and in Greece it may very well be as you describe.

One of the many elements that made Studio Kitchen great was the opportunity to match one's own wines with the food, especially with the advance notice that a set menu provides. I would think that there would be (or at least should be) plenty of wine and food afficionados salivating to jump all over this. Another thing to consider is that the 7 course tasting menu is only $70pp. Now I have yet to eat at Snackbar and I don't know the extent of their wine cellar or access to wines, but if the comments in this topic and others from people whose palates I know and trust are any indication, that meal will be an absolute steal! That being said, a restaurant provided wine pairing - even a modest one- would be a nice option for those without the wherewithal to bring their own wines.

The menu looks great to me. I wish i could be there. The corkage, while not cheap, really isn't bad for a tasting menu. I think it probably is designed to allow people to bring wines to pair with each course, while allowing this small restaurant some leeway in providing the service and glassware. This is a a very much different situation than going to an a la carte restaurant with a bottle of wine to split. In that circumstance, I agree the charge would be excessive. For this, I would pay it happily.

Looking forward to following this, Elie! Just out of curiosity, what would be the cost of the shawarma at this restaurant and how does it compare to others in that area? Also is there a difference between a shawarma and a gyro?