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Those would be my point of comparison as well. They are good enough to make me consider having them in lieu of wine (almost ) This would be a fun place to try during the upcoming ICC as it isn't very far away. I will keep it in mind if the opportunity arises.

omg, mayhaw man, i just did that last night. sooo guilty! i have also been known to consume inordinate amounts of jelly in times such as these. jelly smeared on toast, crackers... oh, who am i kidding-- a butter knife will do just fine. ← I prefer the bittersweet.

What kinds of fish did he smoke and how were they smoked?

don't forget Tailor!

Once again, Simon nails it. Buyers who consciously put themselves in any "camp" other than Craig's Camp, generally have a bit of ego involved, whether it is the one who only buys wines that score big or wines that he "discovered." There is nothing wrong with using critics as a guide or researching tasting wines as they come on the market to make individual decisions. It doesn't really matter that one only drinks top-notch wines. What really matters is that one enjoys the wines that one drinks no matter the source or the price!

Personally, I think that the entire point of cooking is to make the most delicious thing to eat that you possibly can. I guess I can understand people wanting to make something "new" and "different", but if what they come up with is less delicious than the dish they're trying to improve, it seems pointless to me. I'd prefer to see a chef devote countless energy and hours to acquire the most delicious melons and the best prosciutto possible, than spend time trying to freeze dry the prosciutto and turn the melon into foam. I've had the pleasure of eating in many small, traditional trattorie in some of the very off-the-beaten-path little towns in Italy, but I also remember driving quite a distance in the late 1980's the to have a meal at San Domenico in Imola, which was one of the very first "inventive" restaurants, and crying with disappointment at every course, wishing that for my one dinner in the Emilia-Romagna region I had gone to a great, traditional restaurant. Yes, I understand that chefs who grew up cooking the dishes that their mothers and grandmothers cooked every day want to cook something different. But I don't think I've yet had the meal that was an improvement on what Grandma could cook. For me, it's a great crime that the traditional cooking of so many regions and heritages is dying out. I'm afraid that when we're done with foam and molecules, there will be nobody left who knows how to make tortellini in brodo, or lasagne Bolognese. And that will be a culinary disaster. ← Bravo. What oft was thought, but n'er said so well. ← Except that they are not mutually exclusive.

These dishes may not have anything to do with current impressions of what is the area called Le Marche, but food and place have always had a co-evolutionary existence. What is generally considered traditional today was at one time unusual, novel and quite untraditional. While tomatoes are now classically associated with the south of Italy, it wasn't too long ago that they were introduced there. As Judith said, above, she doesn't "want to work in a food museum." Tradition is something that should be respected and is a great reference point and springboard, but it should not be treated as something sacrosanct. One of the things that makes Italy wonderful is the myriad of traditions throughout the country that have come, established themselves and forged themselves into other traditions to create wholly new ones. Sicily provides a prime example of an area that has fused multiple traditions into an amazing and unique cuisine. What would it be without the Arab, Italian, Spanish, Norman and French influences laced throughout? Personally I love going to Italy as I do Spain and mixing and matching the traditional and the new. My last visit to Modena was a great example. I had equally wonderful meals at Hosteria Giusti and Osteria Francescana, which BTW, does a great job of using modern techniques and concepts grafted onto local food traditions.

I haven't been to P*ong so I can't compare, but I agree very much with Jesikka's assessment of Sam's balanced approach to cooking. My experience with his dishes are that they are never too much of anything. There is sweetness, but it is always restrained and balanced by other elements. I expect the savories will be that with a tad of sweetness while the desserts will be mildly sweet with elements of savory. The difference will probably be one of focus and emphasis of specific ingredients.

Juniorworm, welcome to the eGullet Society! Abac is a superb restaurant, but to me there is no question that it would be Ca Sento. I'm not sure about the rest of your wife's constraints, but the shellfish is extraordinary. Ca Sento was one of the best meals I've ever had.

The bridge is the George Washington Bridge, but I can't tell if it is going into or out of NYC. The second photo would make me think out of. This suggests that a NYC resident is heading to the country this Memorial Day weekend towards NJ, Pennsylvania or upstate NY.

Meanwhile the Hooters at the largest shopping mall in the Capitol District of New York State appears to have closed!

The website is still under construction. I couldn't find any line-up listed. They said to email for a listing.

If they do well, it could start a trend. It will be interesting to see what happens.

Few have contributed more to the eGullet Society over the years than Dean. Your retirement is well earned!

...most supermarket peaches, especially if they have been shipped across the country.

Very interesting. Is there a commercial component at all to this?

From The NY Times "Off the Menu" Column.

An article in today's NY Times by Kim Severson titled Edible Films with Superpowers gives an overview of work going on in Food Scence labs on naturally derived food coatings to reduce or prevent bacterial contamination of a variety of foods. Assuming that these eventually make it to market, which appears likely according to this article, do you see this as a boon or a bust? Assuming that you agree with the principle Slow Food tenets of "good, clean and fair," do you think this is consistent with that?

Dan Barber has replaced Grant Achatz on the schedule of presentations. Dan's presentation is titled "From Plate to Farm." You read that correctly.

For people who are really into McDonalds, perhaps eating at the one in Times Square really is a special and memorable experience, even if that might not be the case for most or all of us here. There are plenty of hot dog stands all around and the hot dog certainly isn't unique to NYC, but eating a Nathan's dog on a beautiful day at the Coney Island Boardwalk is still (or at least was) special. The same could hold true for some for the Burgers at Shake Shack. I don't think it is tautological at all even if I don't specifically share the same sentiment.

The main thing I look for in a menu is accuracy. It can be long or brief and succinct so long as it accurately describes what I am ordering. The only time I accept otherwise is if I know the restaurant likes to "play" with their food and their descriptions - but even then there should be a basis for a description and not pure whimsy.

I'm going to disagree on the Shake Shack (which I love). neither of those are "only in NY". the burger is Wisconsin-style. the custard is Wisconsin-style (albeit not as thick). the concretes are St. Louis style. ditto for corn on the cob and the spicy beef tendon. which is why I'm withdrawing the tung-po pork from my list. ← Granted, you can get these items other places, maybe better, maybe not as good. The point I was making with my entries is there is a certain 'extra" something you get by eating these in ny. Sure, you can drive up to a shake stand in the mid-west, but where else can you do it in the middle of a urban park surrounded and enjoy eating with with priceless people watching? ← I agree. The location and environment is one big reason that certain food experiences can not be fully replicated elsewhere. Certain foods may still be delicious when removed from a particular location, but the charm of a specific situation is often like adding an extra dose of umami. That applies to NY and elsewhere. Can a St. Marcellin ever be quite the same as it was when eating it with a loaf of crusty bread while sitting on a blanket underneath the Eiffel Tower? It may be as good or possibly even better elsewhere, but it will certainly be a different experience.

Great report, Phil. Wylie and Alex do a great job of maintaining their creativity at the highest level. The only dish of your meal that I have had before was the tongue. You did a particularly great job of putting the restaurant in perspective. The tongue does speak to its location. The funny thing is that while the food there is certainly not comfort food, I do find it very comforting. It is one of only a handful of restaurants in NYC that I make a point of getting back to every once in awhile, though I can't do it often enough.

Interesting responses to Romera - and from people who generally have similar outlooks towards food.. I can see how the food at L'Esguard could get tiresome after repeated visits, but on my one visit, I found it stunning both visually and gustatorially. As I said, it is unique.

I don't necessarily mind using GM to improve resistance, but I hope they leave the flavor genes alone. Wine is romance and art. Playing with the flavor genes ruins that.