Wendy DeBord

The recipe I use for cigarette paste comes from Michael Roux. 7 tbsp./100g softened butter 1 c./100g confectioners sugar sifted 7 tbsp./110g egg whites 9 tbsp./80g flour, sifted Method: cream the butter and xxx sugar together until smooth, gradually add the egg whites. (It will look curdled) Then add your flour, but don't over mix. To color this you add any food paste you'd like. For chocolate color add cocoa powder, a couple tsp. will be enough. You then spread this on your silpat in a very thin layer and using a comb scrap off to leave exact stripes. The striped effect is probably seen the most often but this paste can be used like paint or piped like frosting and you can apply any pattern, or effect you'd like. For example: for halloween I'll pipe out cobwebs or spiders. You can draw anything you want with multiple colors being used on the same sheet if you wish. Before you apply a thin cake layer to this (the joconde) I freeze the image for aprox. 10 minutes to harden the paste. Then when I spread my cake batter over the top of the paste it won't smear. I used to use Mr. Roux's joconde recipe also. Here's his recipe: 13 oz./375g tant pour tant (equal weights of ground almond and confectioners sugar, sifted together) 5 eggs 5 egg whites 2 tbsp./25g superfine sugar 3 tbsp./40g butter, melted and cool 1/3. c./50g flour Yield=1 16 x 24" sheet pan. 500F oven (but I use 450f). Method: beat tant pour tant with whole eggs until ribbon. Whip egg whites with sugar until firm peaks. Fold butter then flour into the tant pour tant mixture, then fold in egg whites. Spread ontop of frozen paste and bake imediately. You want to bake this just until the cake is set and does not take on color. Stay by your oven as it only takes a couple of minutes. (Mr. Roux notes that it's not easy to achieve good results using less then the given quantities.) I liked his (Michael Roux's) sponge/joconde but it wasn't quite as flexible as I wanted/expected. I recieved a recipe from another pastry chef a few years back that I like better because it is very flexible when finished. I was wrong- I didn't get it from pmj333 I got it from "pastry--chef", whom said they were from Alberta, Canada. Here's their recipe and the notes they offered: 20 eggs 750 g almond meal 150 g melted butter 750 egg whites 300 g castor sugar Method: warm the whole eggs to blood temp over a double boiler, add the almond meal and butter. Whip white and sugar until firm. Fold whites into almond mixture. Bake at 200C. This is the recipe I use for joconde, I like it alot because it's very flexible. Yield: aprox. 2 to 3 full sheet pans. (I spread to whatever thickness I want) They wrote, "Some people will say this is not the correct method for making your Joconde and I can agree, for the ciarette paste I want a sponge that is flexible, thin and will retain it's moisture so as not to dry out and crack during baking, another method for Joconde is to whisk whole eggs and 1st. measure of sugar to the ribbon stage then whisk the whites to a firm shiny meringue, add your yolks to your whites in three parts alternating with the dry ingredients. This is the method I use for the opera getting a lighter sponge then the 1st method but not as flexible and with a more aerated texture it detracts from the smooth cigarettes striped."

I use ganche. I feel it's too hard to cut with anything firmer....now that you mention it, I don't recall ever seeing someone use tempered chocolate on this. Isn't it usually straight chocolate with some butter?

This is the recipe I use most often for cookie cups. I got if from a former sous chef I worked with. Amalio's Cookie Cup: 1/4 c. butter or margarine 1/4 c. br. sugar 1/4 c. corn syrup 1/2 c. Finely chopped nuts (I use pecans, do not chop so fine it's nut flour, nor too course) 1/4 c. ap flour 1/2 tsp. vanilla I've scaled this up very large, it works at any size keeping everything in proportion. Method: melt butter in pan, stir together sugars and flour, mix everything together over low heat in your pan. Don't cook this, your just warming it. I bake at 350f on parchement paper lined trays. Use an ice cream scoop to portion out, give plenty of room because these spread ALOT during baking. They should become lacy and very thin when baked. They're done when golden brown. Take out of the oven and let them sit briefly (to cool down, but too long and they'll set) before draping them over a cup or bowl to shape and let them cool. They cool in seconds and remain crisp far longer then other tuile recipes I've used similarily. I hope you enjoy these.

Great to know DiH, thanks! I'll have to give it a try.

Abra, that won't work with regular sugar. You must have isomalt for the two layered silpat technique. Look here for more info. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=51674 Sure theres other things you can do with regular sugar...if thats what you want. But nothing as quick and effortless with barely any clean-up. With reg. sugar you can pipe it while hot (provided you have thick gloves), make spun sugar, pour it into shards, pull it into spirals (not easy) add chocolate to it for another shard effect, make baskets/cups by drizzling it over a ladle or bowl.

I did explain on this thread http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...7966entry717966 post #36.

Thank-you for finding those photographs. No, it's not brittle at all. You shape it while its cooling down, it only takes a moment. "How much heat" = just enough to melt it. I use a 350f oven. Just a note: you don't want to go over board with this either. It's hard sugar and not really something you want to eat any quantity of.

Bubble sugar (man I should look in a book, they probably call this something else?that's what I call it)..........is made placing isomalt between two sheets of silpat. You heat that in the oven for aprox. 10 min. until the isomalt melts. When cooled, the isomalt will have air pockets/bubbles in it from having the second silpat weighting the isomalt beads down while heating. It's easily removed from the silpats, you break it into what ever size piece you want as a garnish. Adding colors and metalic ducts colors the isomalt. If left plan while preparing the isomalt turns clear. Where as sugar when melted turns golden. I don't have that recipe for cookie cups with me at this moment, but I'll post it asap. When I make panna cotta I spray the mold lightly with pan release. To unmold place the tip of your knive between it and the mold to create an air pocket and the whole thing plops out cleanly. Using disposable plastic cups lets you get more in the refrid. or iced cooler then stemmed goblets (zero clean-up). I've never used agar-agar, so I can't compare....but I can assure you that when you use the correct amount of gelatin it SHOULD be only enough to set the item, not turn it into jello. Meringues are fine if you buy them, but you can't make them on the spot in that time frame and still use your oven for the rest of the meal. Along the lines of a molten cake is the chocolate budini. Which is very similar. But it's served in the dish so demolding is eliminated. Serve with ice cream and yum. Just as ice cream is good so is homemade sorbet in a hollowed out fruit cup or stemmed glass. A duo or trio is cool. You also can do layered icecreams intermixed with purchased cakes or other items (M.S. has a few decent ones). Layered sorbets (done in a loaf pan) sliced served on a plate. Make an ice cream sandwich with some choc. chip cookies and purchased ice cream. Chocolate sparkle cookies are like warm molten cakes but they are cookies. So easy and quick to make. Cheaters truffles (just rolled in cocoa powder or something else) are well recieved. Jeeze what about that lady with the semi-home dessert book. Anything interesting in there? A scratch angel food cake or chiffon cake is easy and quick to make. So is an upside down fruit cake, pineapple, pear, banana, etc.... Make them fancy by baking them in individual portions (using a muffin tin) for parties.....dollop whipped cream, etc... Don't buy 50 ramikins..........theres better things to buy that won't break.

I have to admit on an emotional level I can see the reasons and desire to implement such a contract. I recall feeling ripped off by employees that used "our recipes" and later even opened a bakery using all the same items, recipes even contacts. But I gotta say I've gotten over that completely. I have recipes from others that I've worked for.........theres only 2 or 3 that are really decent. No one can clone me. No one can bake exactly as I do with my recipes. I try to keep myself growing enough that what I did today is less then what I'll do tommarrow. So someone can make a couple of my items or yours.... The ability to finance, open and run a successful business over a long course of time is so difficult that I actually have to wish that former employee great luck......... Businesses spy on other businesses. Salesmen leak info., freinds of freinds pass on info. they shouldn't. Employees cross over from one employeer to the next and take with them your wholesale price list and the names and numbers of who your selling to, etc... I really do think in the long run theres little to fear. Be above the worry. You can't really control someone thats capable, all you can do is be the best that YOU can be. You can't really own a whole market.

As long as you use proper supports you can make this as big and multi-layered as you want. I do think that a mulit-layered cake has more stage presence (that "wow" factor) then a one layer cake.

I agree that what Abra is doing something where perhaps they are working harder last minute then anyone else would want to. BUT having been there (struggling for business) I know that I'll do whatever to make things work. Thats really a second topic and I'm certain by now Abra has been charging as much as possible for this type of service. It's all about working as smart as you can, then flying by the seat of your pants. The more you wing it the more skilled you become at doing so. If you have a enough cooking knowledge and can take the pressure of unknowns, you'll be fine. Back to ideas: First I have to back track a little. Doing panna cotta, although making panna cotta is unbelievable simple it does require more refridgeration space then normal. I recently worked around that issue myself. I molded my panna cotta in very small plastic cups and chilled. Then I served it in a martini glass centered on top of strawberry sauce with sliced berries. You could do similar with any other fruit and panna cotta selection. I used bubble sugar with gold dust on it as my garnish. Which is another idea, bubble sugar is about the easiest quickest garnish you can do. Are you familar with it and how to make it? I add dried food colors, edible metalic dusts, and dragee's into mine when I melt the isomalt. I've also done some simple shaping/bending of the warm sugar after it's baked to give it further interest. Phyllo is another quick to use purchased item that can simplify your schedule. You can make rather nice looking baskets quickly and fill them with a wide assortment of quick and good options. Example: layering your phyllo, sprinkle some sugar in between layers as you brush on the butter. If you add an accent like cinnamon,ginger, cookie crumbs, etc...as a flavor enhancer, it also will carmelize your baked phyllo too. Cut your multi layered phyllo into squares, place them inside a standard muffin pan. Bake until golden, their shape will be a pretty as you formed them before you baked. Ideas to fill these cups are endless. On the simple side sauteed fruit, pastry cream and or whipped cream is nice. You can make a mock baklava or fruit tarts using the phyllo cups as your container.........I'm doing an apple strudel version this Monday for 200, using cinnamon gelato as my accompaniment. Stick a dried apple slice on top........and that looks nice. Oh, on that line, easy to do.........cookie cups. I use a batter similar to a florentine cookie, bake it flat on parchment paper lined cookie sheet, drape it over a soup bowl or coffee cup to shape. They chill and hold shape in minutes. Fill with ice creams or sorbet. You can also use this cookie as a garnish into something else.

I'm not aware of any book devoted strictly to those topics. Have you checked out http://www/chipsbooks.com yet? I think thats the best source for finding those topics. I personally have made a few baked savories but have found the recipes I tried in other non-dedicated books. Is there anything in particular that your searching for recipe wise? Over all, I have to admit I'm not fond of Claytons work (sorry). I have better luck with recipes from Martha Stewarts magazine. She's had several chefs publish savory cracker recipes. G.J. Bellouet and J.M. Perruchon have a respectable amount of savory recipes published in their book "Apprenez L'Art des Petits Fours Sucre's et Sale's". I may be mistaken, but I think Michel Roux may have published some savory sables in the book he published with his brother years ago....I forget the exact title.....something like The Roux Brothers on Pastry........

Not all mixes are created equal. Heres a really good mix version that's I've used in the past and can swear that you won't have any problems with it. 1 box duncan heines cake mix 1 sm. box of instant pudding (flavor to match cake) 4 whole eggs 1 cup. h2o 1/2 cup oil Mix together and bake in a 350F oven. Chill your cake in the pan! Once it's cold and set (in a couple hours) level off your cake using the top of your cake pan as your guide. This will give you an even cake height for each layer. Unmold cake by rapping pan on counter top. While your unmolding the cake place a cardboard cake circle underneath it the same size as your pan, to catch the cake on. With cold cake, place your cake on top of your turn table. Using a SERATED knive slice through half the height of the cake. I don't suggest you attempt to torte your cake into more layers until your a more experienced decorator. To seperate cake layers, insert another cardboard cake circle in between layers and lift up. Although this cake mix version I posted is extremely flexible I suggest you still work cautiously until your more advanced.

When you do items like mousse or creme' brulee (make a stove top version) chill them in one container, then portion last minute so you don't need much refridgeration room. Also buy your supplies wisely. If you use hotel pans and or tupperware thats flat and shallow that will do two things for you. 1. Allow you to stack on top of them in the cooler. 2. Chill the item quicker. Having done catering...your probably already doing this but just in case......bring card board cake circles so you can stack up items in the cooler and condense them-leaving yourself more useable room. Also having your own cooler with ice can be a real space and time saver. I find it easiest to use my own space in a cooler or coolers then the little shelfs some refridgerators have. As far as cookbooks, well the more you know the easier it is. But you can get alot of free recipes online. I use several from Martha Stewart and they are all online, free. Theres several other sites of note worth printing out their recipes. You have foodtv, pbs, (so many I can't begin to list them), but if you want web sites ask and we can help list some for you. I also follow and trust my friend here online (as your doing) for good recipes. O.k. so we have this narrowed down to searching for quick elegant desserts for groups of 8 up to 50, correct?

If you want specific recipes so you don't need to do further homework I'd suggest you mention what pastry books you own? Many of us can tell which which recipes from them work well in a tight time frame. Are you mainly making upscale dinners and desserts for the client or doing entertaining/catering work? (probably both, right?) What kind of things are you making for their entrees? I used to cater and it is a challenge to work completely in their kitchen. Not prepping doesn't mean not prepared, not knowing whether it's a party or a family dinner. Do you bring in your own ingredients? Do you bring in any of your own equipment, coolers, speciality items that most home owners don't own, extra baking sheets? Or are we talking really basic?

Ah, I see a problem with your recipe. Your buttering your pan for a cake that needs to cling to the sides of the pan to raise. Instead next time line the bottom of your pan with parchment paper, then leave your sides plain- un-buttered. Let the cake cool completely in the pan, when cool/room temp. take your knive and go around the inside edge to free your cake from clinging to the pan. Then invert and de-pan. Also 4 eggs in a 9" cake pan is shy. You could double that recipe and bake it in the same 9" pan, then you'd have enough to split your layers easily. Lastly you don't need to use a springform pan, I think a reg. pan is better because you won't have a lip on the edge of your cake.

So far I haven't found any specific ingredients in baked goods/pastry I don't really like. So I've got a great job! It probably wouldn't hurt me if there were more things I didn't like. Theres a few things on the savory side that I'm not into. I can and do force myself to try everything, but I can't do organ meats, period-or something that really stares back at me......and I've yet to eat a soft shell crab where the shell was soft and unnoticable, I'm done trying that! When it comes down to something I really dislike I'll trust my sense of smell and someone elses tasting opinion. But I have to add, that typically when I taste something my co-workers don't like as their guinee pig, it's usually off because they didn't taste it themselves. Then you have to let the taster make the adjustments! I think for the most part it's best to let someone else make what ever item you dislike.....you just can't bring in that finesse if you hate the main ingredient.

This is a great topic and believe me I often have the same issues because I recieve notice mid-day that I've got an event in a couple hours. I have a mental list of desserts I can make quickly that I've made before and know will be good. I also always have some garnishes on hand that I can grab and use.........just like having your tart shells on hand. I have to run to work right now, but I'll be back to elaborate. Quickly off the top of my head, items I make in a hurry: Souffles Shortcakes (and numerous versions of them) puff pastry based tarts and napoleons brulee's and custard based desserts Garnishes I always have on hand: Decorated sheets of chocolate (I don't have transfer sheets but I make my own) marzipan (I make bee's out of it) Chocolate butterflies gum paste butterflies gum paste flowers (easy ones using a cookie cutter and a silcone emboser) chocolate cigarettes chocolate coffee beans tuile batter

I certainly understand the concept of not having enough time! I fight that battle daily. These young women are lucky to have someone who cares and tries so hard!

Welcome chococrazy! How splenda works with chocolate is on topic...........but I suggest starting a new thread to answer any of your general baking questions concerning splenda. Someone with specific knowledge of splenda might not read this whole thread. I tend to agree with alligande's point, in baking you don't notice the chocolate nearly like you would with a mousse (that's comparing apples to oranges). And I do agree it depends upon what your baking too. A flourless chocolate cake or a molten cake where your chocolate is everything-I can see using a high end chocolate and charging for it. But baking brownies........na I can't see where your going to recoupe your costs (although my brownie recipe doesn't use unsweetened choc.). In fact...........there are NOT alot of recipes I use that do use unsweetened chocolate. Actually what comes to mind when I think of recipes I use with unsweetened chocolate is a couple chocolate cookie recipes that I've used that were published by bakers brand, they're pretty good. For the most part I use semi sweet in 99% of my baking because my average client prefers that over a bittersweet choc.. I can definately appreciate the fact that in different regions people have different tastes depending upon what they've been exposed to. I recall traveling South and thinking someone put extra sugar in my name brand ketchup and cola drinks, the formulas were so different then what I'm used to up North. Living in the mid-west US I'm certain I have a mid-western palate. Europeans certainly like darker coffee and chocolates then my neighbors. I'm not so sure that our American mass produced chocolates are gigo. I agree completely with Chocophile and have written this many times.........you'd be supprised at how the average consumer can't tell the difference in many quality products verses lower end: again, probably due to exposure. I see it day in and day out at work...........sometimes it pisses me off quite frankly, but I adjust and put forth my best efforts into items where the quality is recognized.

I've never had luck using parchment paper with joconde. It always wrinkles so much that my sheets have permenant wrinkles in them too and the wrinkles are weak spots. I use a silpat instead so they can't wrinkle. I put my decorative cigarette paste down in whatever design I wish, freeze it, whip up my joconde and place it straight on cig. paste while it's frozen so it won't smear and bake right away. If your joconde is too airiated if might sit above the joconde unstead of filling into every little pocket. If you give your sheet pan a little tap on the counter before you bake it that should correct any non-contact areas. BUT don't bang it so hard or too much that you take all the air out of your batter. Or when you spread your joconde on the cigarette paste use some downward pressure while doing so. I can't recall what the issue was, but several years back I had problems with my joconde and another pc came to my rescue.

Oh MY.......what a beautiful site out your window! I'd never get off the computor and out of my chair if that was my view.

So did the girls enjoy? Would you do this again?

Sorry Fernwood I don't know why that happened, perhaps someone else here will know. I'm pretty sure that holding it in the pan for a longer time with-out unpanning wouldn't cause that. I've left cakes in pans for multiple hours and never had anything similar happen. Nor do I think it was your pan, I've used very cheap thin tube pans too and found them to work as well as more pricey pans for these types of cakes. I think this remains a mystery for now.

Actually Abra I think that would be a great thread topic. I'm sure it would be fun and helpful to hear everyones suggestions. If your seriously interested, please go ahead and begin that topic.