Florida Jim

balex, These three arguments are really quite valid and well stated. There is indeed, a disconnect between pricing and quality just as there is between individual tastes - it boils down to preference. As to pricing, if Parker prefers it, the price rises - one example of market perceptions and consumer's following them. Also the WS annoitning Paloma's merlot as WOTY; the secondary market is setting its price in multiples of the release price and there is virtually no supply available outside that market. Equally, wines that have a long histroy of high pricing; Opus, Petrus, etc. Not just supply and demand but the perception of supply and demand. Likewise, individual preference. How many times have I heard that "the best wine in the world is the wine you like best?" Quality is a uniquely individual concept. As a personal example; if I were offerred the 99 Robin, Crozes-Hermitage for $10 and also the 99 La Chapelle at the same price, I would take the Crozes. That runs counter to both history and common perception - but I have had them both and I prefer the Crozes. My persepctive is unique to me; just as yours is to you and so on. And certainly the food/setting argument is equally accurate. Well said. Best, Jim

Really? Maybe that's why so many winemakers aspire to make wine that costs $250 a bottle. So its your fault. :) The real problem with that theory (wouldn't it be nice if it wasn't just theoretical) is that cuts out a whole lot of wine. If it has to cost $250 per, I can't drink anymore Gamay, Muscadet, Chenin, Ruche, Soave, etc. and very little Riesling, Gruner Veltliner, Cab. franc, etc. Then too, I'd have to rule out wines from Oregon, Loire, Beaujolais, most of Italy except Tuscany and the Piedmont, Chablis, etc. 'Sounds kind of boring . . . I think you're "making do" very well, indeed. Best, Jim

With smoked salmon and cream cheese spread with assorted crackers: 1996 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Champagne Rose Reserve: Truly distinct Champagne with fine bubbles, some yeast on the nose and a vinous and complex palate with a crystal clean finish. Delightful with the food. With fresh Blue Crab, crab cakes with basmati rice, wilted Swiss chard and a roasted red pepper aioli: 2000 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allees: The very best bottle of the case and, unfortunately, my last. Lovely aromatics, depth on the palate while maintaining its cut, perfect balance, an almost rich mouthfeel and great persistence. Showing as well as any Muscadet I have ever had and superb with the dish. With assorted cheeses and crusty bread: 1996 G. Roumier, Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussiere: Not as closed as one would think but not at peak either. Clean, crisp, good depth and clearly Morey. As it opened in the glass all the edges receded and it became smoother and more complex. Nothing but upside here. Best, Jim

Finally, I got the paint out from under my nails. For the last month I have been a de facto house-painter (a profession I never aspired to) as a remodel of our home in NC was in its finishing stages in November and most of December I have been helping a friend prepare a “fixer-upper” in FL so that my daughter would have a place to stay when she returns from a two year adventure in LA. (If you’re keeping score, she was one day ahead of the quake and two ahead of the floods – makes a father weak in the knees.) But she’s here now and the house was ready and the weather is lovely and my friend has given her a break on the rent which, around here, is as rare as monkey boy playing nice. From my limited, paint fume influenced memory, some comments on wines over the last . . . hell, I don’t even know how long: 2002 Lindeman’s, Pinot Noir Bin 99: La Tache in ain’t, but at $5.69, at my local Publix, it is not woody, reasonably concentrated and smells and tastes like pinot noir. And virtually anybody who has tried it loves it, be they geek or novice. In this season of eclectic tasters, it’s a fine bottle to have plenty of. 1994 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mtn,: Even in this, its mute stage, its better than 90% of domestic cabernet. 1994 Spellitich, Cabernet Sauvignon: Open, smokey, delicious cab. from anywhere; I like it. 1995 Jassandra Vitoria (Coturri): Volitile, disjointed and a complete waste of both sangiovese and cabernet. 2002 Brun, Beaujolais Blanc: A tip of the cap to Joe millionaire for this suggestion; I have gone through half a case and will have to get more ASAP. Delicious chardonnay and it actually smells and tastes like chardonnay. 1999 Christoffel, Urziger Wurtzgarten (sp?) Spatlese: Yum. Fun to drink. 2002 Baudry, Chinon “Les Granges:” Something else I need another case of immediately; exceptional juice, clearly of its place and not even a hint of green. 1999 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige: A serious Brouilly that has powerful aromatics and, at present, a hard edge. Needs time in the cellar – all sorts of potential. 2000 Vieux Telegraph, CdP: Nice, smooth wine with good integration, a solid core of fruit and some decent length. Not as alcoholic as the last bottle. 2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay: A wine that is everything one could ask of Gamay for the first half hour the bottle is open and then again, a day later. In between, it goes through many different moods; none of them as attractive. 1999 Chevillon, NSG Roncieres: Just plain fabulous. Good now, good later; gives no indication of closing up. Complex, full in the mouth, deeply flavored; superb accompaniment to salad Nicoise. Robert Chevillon is my hero. 1999 Hirsch, Gruner Veltliner Lamm: Maderized and sweet on the nose, similar on the palate – one hopes this is a bad bottle. 1996 Biale, Zinfandel Monte Rosso (magnum): Rich, with smoke, stone and spice elements; some bottle bouquet and sufficient complexity to indicate development in bottle. About the only Zinfandel I have had recently that I would enjoy having again. Very nice wine. Last, and definitely least; Vintage unknown, Rancho Zabacco, Zinfandel: Served at a party this acorn-infused syrup is all but unpalatable. Of course, it was the first empty of the evening. BTW, should you need to work out with weights, the bottle will serve nicely. My sincere wishes for a healthy and peaceful new year to you all, Jim

Craig, The second sentence of your question sets the tone for the answer; Napa. Some good wines, some poor wines, a lot of outrageous prices. Best, Jim

Katie, I'm not sure about this, but I believe the Chinon is one of, if not the, least expensive bottling from this producer. Assumption; made to be drunk soon. Do try it and let me know what you think? Best, Jim

Upon your recovery, could you attempt a comment on the Chablis Grand Cru Vaudasir 2000, Billaud Simon; one of my favorite vineyards? Best, Jim

Just a personal choice here; when I hear about a soup with cream, butter and clams I instinctively want something with some cut. Chablis springs to mind; even young Chablis - something intense that has never seen wood and has lots of acid - sounds like Louis Michel to me. And his stuff is usually pretty good young. Best, Jim

Alex, The elements I would focus on when choosing are: -the soup will be served chilled -jalapeño is an ingredient -cilantro and lime juice are accents While sauvignon, riesling and other sturdy white might do well, I think bubbly is your best bet unless the jalapeño flavor and spice will be substantial. If that is the case, I would find a wine with some residual sweetness to pair against the heat from the jalapeño - perhaps, a German spatlese or an Austrian riesling or gruner from the house of Hirsch (they often have RS). Best, Jim

With grilled salmon, garlic couscous, green beans with almonds and salad: 2002 J.P. Brun, Terres Dorees, Beaujolais Blanc: As George put it, “so this is what Chardonnay smells like.” A clear, ripe fruit nose with some nice mineral tones and a touch of citrus is a fine introduction. The medium bodied, fruit-sweet palate has ripe flavors, a solid backbone of acidity and spot on balance; and this is what Chardonnay tastes like. A very complete, ready to drink now expression of this grape without manipulation or wood – aside from a few Chablis tasted recently, I can’t think of a better chard. About $11, delivered. 2002 Bernard Baudry, Chinon Les Granges: When I first read Jacqueline Friedrich’s description of Chinon, I was captivated. With a motto like, “Drink constantly, never die” how could one not be. “The tractor salesman shows up. Great! A reason to uncork more bottles. Then another vigneron accompanied by his mason. More vintages. A bowl of rillettes.” Yep, that’s where/how I want to live. And her description of the wines: thirst quenching, buoyant, a cross between a juicy Beaujolais and a young claret. Oh yeah; gimme some. Over the last several years I have looked for such wines and only occasionally found one approaching those charms. Search over. This wine is redolent in black cherry and earth aromas (and not even a hint of green). Vibrant, juicy, full in the mouth, deeply flavored, no wood tones or bell pepper flavors; just the stuff to pull out when a friend shows up; lordy, I think I know how Rabelais felt. Delicious! About $14, delivered. Best, Jim

Paul and Sandy Jaouen came to dinner and we ate grilled duck breast, white asparagus with cherry/walnut chutney, salad, bread and cheese. Accompanying wines: 1984 Ampeau, Volnay Santenots: Lush is the apt descriptor for both the nose and palate but there is no lack of backbone. Really delightful red fruit aromatics and a richness on the palate that seems typical of the vineyard. Very few wines are as sensuous. Still has some grip and finishes long if ever so slightly fading. Lovely and in full bloom. This maker bottles very early on in the process, hence the wines require more time in the cellar – fortunately, there is a reward for such patience. A fine bottle of Volnay is all any one can ask, especially with duck. 1996 d’Angerville, Volnay 1er: Similar to the above wine but more streamlined and focused with less of the lushness and length. But it also gives the impression of being immature, so I hold hope it will be much more given sufficient time. 2000 G. Roumier, Clos-de-la-Bussiere: A powerful wine that belies the hype of the vintage. Meaty, structured, deeply flavored but rustic at the moment and lacking integration; needs many years to mature. Still there is rich fruit, ripe tannin and a presence in the mouth that makes me think its maturity will find it robust and succulent; much like a Clos-de-Tart. Best, Jim

Well go get it . . . but really, be prepared to wait . . . and wait . . . Best, Jim

It was about $70 and is now virtually unfindable. Best, Jim

With tuna grilled rare, smashed red skin potatoes and green beans: 1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin VV: Savor it, ‘cause very few wines at any cru level measure up. A penetrating nose resplendent in earth nuance and ripe red fruit leads to a muscular and full wine in the mouth that’s still a bit raw but the fruit concentration is intense and deep; the smallest sip fills the entire palate and lasts and lasts . . . multi-dimensional, grippy, rich and memorable. ‘Had both Diane and I sighing. Needs a minimum of 5-8 years and likely more; however long, may I live to taste it at peak. Utterly Gevrey. Best, Jim

With a plate of cold roast pork and roast beef with some humus and blue corn chips: 1993 Rockland, Petite Sirah: Drum roll, please . . . this is the first fully resolved Petite Sirah I have ever tasted (and I have tasted quite a few.) It’s full of particulate matter so it needs a day or two standing and to be decanted. Starting with a very attractive blackberry and plum compote nose with just the faintest accent of oak, it is full in the mouth but not weighty; structured but showing lots of ripe fruit and a nice tang; it is both harmonious and intense. A medium length finish ties things up nicely. Still has good grip but there is nothing drying and the tannins don’t detract in the least from the full, bright, clean, rich, integrated palate. Yes, its ten years old but even so, it’s the first Petite Sirah I have tasted that I can say with confidence is, “at peak.” About $40 delivered, at release. Best, Jim

1990 Oakford Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon: After about three days in the decanter, it started to smell better. But it never lost its green bell pepper edge on the palate and despite some good stuff going on and nice complexity, the green was simply overwhelming. 1997 Thomas, Pinot Noir: Thinner than expected (and since this is always an elegant wine, that’s saying something) and starting to dry out on the palate. But it has good character and holds my interest. Drink now. 1995 Ridge, Pagani Ranch Zinfandel: Actually 82% Zinfandel., 13% Mataro, 3% Alicante and 2% Petite Sirah; late picked. A remarkably concentrated wine with some very nice flavors tending to the exotic and then overwhelmed by oak. What a disgrace; sensational juice absent the lumber. 2000 Zenato, Valpolicellla Superiore Ripassa: Substantial in the mouth with an Amarone sweetness and a dry finish. But at only 13% alcohol, this is “baby” Amarone in every sense. Delicious and a fine value. 1995 Mt. Langi Ghiran, Langi Shiraz: I am always amazed at the difference in this grape grown in Victoria as opposed to the Barosso; this had crisp cranberry fruit with a slight hint of earth and spice, little wood and none that obscures the vinous elements of the wine, focused and compact, excellent density, lovely balance. Too bad it’s my last bottle; this will live quite awhile and, I think, develop nicely. Best, Jim

Throughout Thanksgiving Day, we dined on crackers and cheese, roasted chicken and root vegetables, mashed butternut squash, pan gravy, a green salad and warm cranberry muffins with yogurt cheese. We also had sips of these: 1999 Coudert, Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvee Tardive: Although the floral/face powder element (Fleurie?) of the nose and palate is evident, this wine is now showing its structure with some dusty tannins to go with very dense fruit. Still crunchy acidity, over the years since release the wine seems to have picked-up weight and density. It is not as smooth as it once was but I suspect that is only because this is closing down. I can’t recall another Beaujolais that is either this concentrated or this structured, not even more current vintages of this wine. And it accomplishes both with grace. My guess is that this will live for (and develop over) a very long time. About $22 at release, delivered. 2000 Domaine de la Petite Cassagne, Costieres de Nimes: As balanced and harmonious a southern Rhone as one could wish; completely smooth and integrated with good complexity, a touch Mourvedre funk and nothing out of place. Keeps the Grenache elements in the background, which is where I like them. Pure, rich and goes down easy. Really an exceptional bargain at less than $10 retail. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet: Not its best showing (it seems to be closing up), but still characteristically northern Rhone with strong raspberry fruit concentrate and smoked bacon flavors and smells. More a one-note song today than its usual chorus of smells and flavors; even so, better than most of the syrah in my cellar. Despite having more of this than any other wine in my cellar, this is the wine in my cellar I would most like to have more of, regardless of price. This is authentic. About $10, delivered. Best, Jim

Hank, When I hear stories like these, I get the feeling I should throw away my cellar inventory program. Nothing escapes it/me . . . :) Best, Jim

John, As noted in my post above, this wine can be controversial. Although I have no doubt that the wine described in John's original tasting note was lovely, many of the older vintages have tasters saying very diverse things. Even I have a large range of descriptors for different bottles tasted. You might want to try a bottle before going long. Best, Jim

John, I too, enjoy Savennieres but you have started at the top. Joly makes wines of great character, substantial longevity and some controversy. They are also expensive, even by Savennieres standards. There are a number of other pretty good producers that can be had for less than half the price, such as: Baumard Dom. du Closel Clos de Coulaine Chat. d'Epire and others. All of these producers vint several different cuvees each year. Look for some of the 2002's that will be hitting the shelves soon - a pretty good year for chenin, by all accounts. Thanks for the note. Best, Jim

The idea that “we won’t see them again until next year” creates a flurry of activity in the weeks before we leave for the winter in Florida. But with our home in the process of being remodeled, having folks in has been more than challenging. Last night, with the work about ten days from complete, we were able to move aside the caulk guns and paint cans and set a table that even exposed electrical outlets could not diminish. With garlic soup with gruyere and fresh parsley: 2000 William Fevre, Fourchaume: very clean but gentle nose of citrus, rain water and mineral/ medium body, flavors follow the nose with a touch of peach, harmonious and well balanced/ medium length with good cut. While it does not have the acidity of many of the 2000’s nor the depth or concentration of Boudin’s Fourchaume; it is still clean, without much evidence of wood and persistent. Very good with the dish. With a salad of arugala, tangerine and fennel: 2002 Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis: lovely floral and citrus nose with some pear and honey accents/ lighter in body than the Chablis but more intensely flavored, nicely complex and pretty nice depth, no frizzante but bright acids, perfect balance/ medium length finish. I simply can’t get enough of this wine. Excellent with the dish. With pasta with gorgonzola and wild mushroom, and, slices of roast pork tenderloin: 1998 Chateau Potensac, Medoc: warm red fruit nose with hints of garrigue and iron shavings/ full body, richly tannic, flavors follow the nose with some depth, good balance/ medium length finish. Opened too early but not by a lot; it opened nicely in the glass and was very enjoyable with the dish. 1998 Chave, Hermitage (rouge): fantastic bacon fat nose before the TCA broke in and dismantled it on both the nose and palate. With apricot and walnut strudel topped with a reduction of the apricot poaching liquid: 2001 Donnhoff, Riesling Auslese, Oberhauser Brucke (375): very alluring nose with good complexity for such a young auslese; lots of pears, flowers, minerals, light honey and citric tones; evolves nicely over about an hour/ medium body and viscous, very harmonious if somewhat simple on the palate with flavors that echo the nose, concentrated and intense, outstanding acidity backing and brightening, perfect balance/ very long in the mouth with a cleansing burst of acidity. Pretty spectacular stuff for a wine so very young. Delicious with the dish. Best, Jim

With a lunch of cold cuts, cheeses, crackers, nuts and olives: 1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir : To some this wine will have the smell of stems and a thin mouth feel; not I. This is where I live. The nose has clear, earthy scents that dominate, but it is accented by some gun powder, cherry, neutral wood, warm leaves and cake spice; excellent complexity. The palate is alive and bright with forest floor, strawberry and cherry fruit, lovely spice tones and leaf-ish flavors. Light bodied but carrying more oomph than such body would suggest; intense, clean, focused and structured – I think this wine will last a very long time. This wine is not for everyone and those that prefer Loring, Siduri, Roar or other California pinots should not bother; this is so much homage to the earth and its particular place . . . well, I doubt I would miss it tasted blind. Think very mature Burgundy; maybe Chambolle or Morey with thirty years on it. Whatever; this is my preference in pinot, every time. Superb with the food. About $30, delivered on release. Best, Jim

Aperitif and wines with a salad of greens, pears and gorgonzola: 2001 Chateau de la Greffiere, Macon la Roche-Vineuse: Overall, this wine was very similar to Chablis in that it was crisp, somewhat steely, had no noticeable wood, emphasized citrus elements on both the nose and palate and had very good persistence. It did have its own character, especially on the palate, but I am so unfamiliar with the Macon that I could not say if that was typical of the terroir or not. In any event, I very much enjoyed this wine, feel that it has a good future and will buy some as I understand its about $15 (someone else brought it). 2001 Ca’ntele, Chardonnay Salento: A wine from the Puglia area, this was very gentle with apple and soft grapefruit tones on both the nose and palate. Although I understand that about 25% of the wine sees neutral wood, no oak elements were discerned. This wine was “smaller” than the previous wine and really didn’t taste much like Chardonnay. Pleasant, but not more. With a tomato based stew with shrimp and scallops: 2000 Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny, Amoureuses: Out of this world good wine. “Sap” is the first and foremost descriptor that comes to mind; an extremely focused and intense core of red fruit with black fruit overtones (extraordinarily perfumed) – Chambolle syrup, if you will. As it opened some, earth tones appeared but it was the texture that seemed to take on a greater harmony and finesse over time. This is very classy juice with exquisite balance. ‘Many good years ahead of it and sensational with the food. About $68, discounted. Best, Jim

Despite having the house torn-up in the midst of a remodel, there seem to be a constant stream of visitors. Perhaps, the fact that our weather has been so mild for mid-November is keeping everyone in motion – knowing that, when the snow falls, it will be time to stay home. Aperitif: 1997 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile (375): very expansive nose of pear, apple, honeycomb, flowers and stones; quite complex and alluring/ medium body, bright flavors follow the nose with some spice accents, substantial cut, intense, concentrated, well balanced/ very long and mouth watering. Almost too powerful to be drunk without food. Excellent juice with years to peak. About $18, delivered With pork tenderloin: 1993 Sullivan, Merlot: dusty red fruit and loam aromas with some spice and something that smelled like fresh fish (not meant to be derogatory)/ full body, flavors run more to dark fruit with lots of earthy flavors, somewhat tight, intense and concentrated, good balance/ long, drying finish. Decanted off substantial sediment. Needs another ten years. Excellent with the food. $45, delivered at release. With cheese and crackers: 1998 Abbaye de Tholomies, Minervois: deeply scented with plum, meat and cherry scents; hints of earth and spice/ full body, rich and dense in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, well concentrated and perfectly balanced/ long finish. I wish I could get more of this; what a superb wine. Made of Syrah (60%), Grenache (30%) and Mourvedre (10%), this is smooth, flavorful and satisfying. About $10, full retail. With grilled mushroom sandwiches: 2000 Vieux Telegraph: gentle CdP nose with nice delineation/ full body, viscous, mostly red fruit and meat flavors with good concentration and fair balance; well integrated already/ medium length finish. I have heard others mention alcoholic heat but did not find it. Nice wine and good with the lunch. About $35, discounted. With pasta with red sauce and winter vegetables: 2002 Casa Brina, Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato: constantly changing nose with red fruit, gentle oak, flowers, black pepper, hard candy and spice smells rising and falling; complex but slightly disjointed/ medium body, the palate echoes the nose with similar flavors rising and falling in intensity, solid but unobtrusive structure, and again complex but disjointed, excellent balance/ medium length but quite intense finish. Showing very young but balanced; bright and fresh now and fine potential. Good with the dish. About $18, discounted. With chocolate muffins: 1996 Chat. Montelena, Cabernet Sauvignon (375): gentle oak and black fruit nose, fairly straightforward/ medium body, smooth texture, flavors follow the nose with slight complexity, nicely integrated and concentrated, good balance/ medium length finish. Showing pleasantly but of no great interest. Killer with the dessert. About $30, delivered at release. With nuts and cheese: 1992 Fieldstone, Port: A sort of Late bottled vintage style made from Petite Sirah with pretty, sweet fruit and substantial power (19% alcohol). Nothing special. About $30, on release. With Italian sub sandwiches: 2000 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre: bright nose of red currants, cherries, some blackberry and spice tones/ medium body, crunchy acidity with flavors that follow the nose, intense, concentrated, slightly closed, lovely balance/ long, crisp finish. Terrific wine with a big upside for the future. Delicious with the lunch. About $13, delivered. Best, Jim

With a salad of roasted beets, ricotta salada and arugala: 2000 Belle Pente, Riesling: Smells of honeycomb, white fruit and citrus; tastes pretty much the same. Not as sweet as it was on release but somewhat deeper and slightly disjointed. About $17, delivered. With homemade pizzas: 2000 Dom. de la Petite Cassagne, Costieres de Nimes: I have no idea what this is made of but it smells like Grenache and tastes like Mourvedre. Good grip, some depth of fruit, sauvage accents and decent complexity. A very together wine that keeps getting better in the glass. Has sufficient structure, fruit and balance to warrant short to medium term cellaring. About $9. This was a friend’s bring and I will be hunting down a box of this very shortly. 2001 Clos de l’Hermitage, Cotes du Rhone: A pleasant blend without anything to make it remarkable or objectionable. Overpriced at $24. With hot Cuban sandwiches: 2000 P. Granger, Julienas Cuvee Speciale: A crunchy, ripe charming Gamay with excellent cut and sustain. Superb with the food. Probably needs two to four years to peak but delicious with food today. A gift; cost unknown. Aperitif: 2001 Cave de Lugny, Macon-Lugny Les Charmes: Fresh and lightly citric on the nose with some white fruit and earth scents; light bodied with flavors that follow the nose and the impression of clean ripeness; medium length finish. This is such an elegant, little wine; I was so impressed I bought a case immediately. About $9. With pork loin and risotto: 1992 Ravenswood, Pickberry: Still shows the structure of youth but the fruit tastes more mature and a bit attenuated. I am beginning to wonder if there is a point of diminishing returns in aging this wine. About $35 full retail, at release. With pasta with smoked salmon: 2000 J.P. Droin, Vaillons: In an otherwise typical Chablis nose I am picking up the aroma of cheese – to me, a clear indicator that this wine is closing down. Still steely without loss of depth on the palate and predominantly citrus/lemon flavors, but shorter than the last several bottles. Hold. About $22. Best, Jim