Florida Jim

It’s always good to spend a week on the left-coast. Old friends to see, new wines to taste and the beauty of rural Sonoma set against the bustle of Berkeley. All receptors open. Along the way the chance to meet Juan Mercado at Realm Cellars, Josh Peoples at Chateau Boswell and a few other happy wine geeks on vacation. And although we came to help plant a vineyard at Russell Bevan’s home, Mother Nature gave us the week off; too much rain the preceding week made planting impossible. So, we drank: First, Dry Stack Winery is a new operation where Russell is winemaker, Peter and Marie Young are growers and the wines are such that, for those who like the style, they will be the next big thing (and reasonably priced, too). Very concentrated, rich, big Rhone varietals, mostly syrah, are the forte of this operation in Bennett Valley. But they also make a beautiful, tropical flavored sauvignon blanc without any grassy or cat-pee notes that even I will be buying, and a great rosé of syrah that has real flavor and cut. Many of you are on mailing list burn-out, I know, but this is one to add. I had a chance to taste through all the Realm Cellars 2004’s and their 2005 barrel samples and while these are not my style of wine, I think those that loved these in the past will be truly delighted with the coming versions. We also tasted the 2006 pinot gris, 2006 rosé of gamay and the 2005 Bassetti Vineyard, syrah from Edmunds St. John. These are wines that are in my wheelhouse; the gris was light and floral but juicy; the syrah was deep, concentrated and very pure; and, the rosé is extraordinary to the point that J. P. Brun would be pleased. And for those keeping track, Steve’s back has finally gotten straightened out and he is his usual serene and carefree self. Other wines that impressed: 2002 Aubert, Ritchie Vnyd. chardonnay: the weight and power is all CA but the nuances and focus is as Burgundian as they get. And not too much oak, either. Excellent stuff. 1999 Ogier, Côte-Rôtie: much more open then I expected and very true to its place. 1998 Ogier, Côte-Rôtie: more complex, still a bit tannic and touched with brett. But I sure enjoyed it. I also had a number of California wines that, while one glass was enough, I was very pleased to find wines tending to emphasize their varietal and, occasionally, their terroir notes. Although I don’t think these wines were indicative of any style change for the area, I do think that some folks choose to buck the trend. But, if I had to boil it all down to one wine it would be the 2006 Dry Stack Cellars, sauvignon blanc; Didier Dagueneau move over. At $20, this is stealing. Best, Jim

2005 Dom. Leydier et Fils, Vin de Table du Vaucluse: This wine is a dead ringer for better Gigondas or Vacqueyras, with a meaty, slightly saline profile, lots of ripe fruits, garirgue and a sort of savage earthiness; moderate depth, excellent complexity and good grip. A very together wine that still delivers a rustic feel; for drinking now or in the short term. Diane loves it – a rare occasion. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $9; I’ll buy more soon (even if Diane didn’t like it so much). Odds and ends: 2000 Louis Michel, Les Clos: Opened two days ago, recorked and put in the fridge; this wine is now the essence of truffle - the scent of truffle oil fills the nose – it tastes like Chablis with a little truffle mixed in but the nose is so captivating, drinking it seems redundant. Remarkable. 2001 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel: Open three days, recorked and left on the counter with an occasional glass taken out; after three days it has simplified to forward fruit and a little earthiness. On first opening it was much more complete and complex. But it didn’t oxidize noticeably. 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: When first opened, a pretty tannic wine that still retains very pretty and elegant fruit; after 24 hours recorked and on the counter, the fruit is now fleshy and supple, the grip still youthful, and the finish considerably longer. A young wine with an immense future. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Locascio/Winebow and about $24; stealing at that price. Best, Jim

N/V Colet, Cava A Priori: Energetic bead, clean aromas and flavors and not as earthy as many Cavas – more Champagne-esque. 11.5% alcohol, imported by Vinos and Gourmet and about $15; I’d buy it again. 2000 Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino: It smells and tastes like Brunello but it bears a new world sheen and polish that makes it seem more generic. I like it and am happy to drink it but, for the prices charged these days, I won’t buy it. 13% alcohol, imported by Banfi Vintners, price unknown; I won’t buy it. Thanks Mary-Lynn. 2004 Peay, Syrah Les Titans: Aromatically enticing with earth, red and black fruit and even hints of bacon; less so on the palate as there is a sweetness that detracts from the overall flavor, very fine but abundant tannins and good length. A good wine that falls just short for me – I think it may be the 14.2% alcohol that bumps up the sweetness factor – or maybe it’s the clones (Estrella, 174 and UCD1, as well as some Côte Rôtie clones). This wine makes me more determined than ever to one day grow Côte Rôtie clones in CA and pick them before the brix get so high. Price unknown; thanks Alan. 2000 Louis Michel, ChablisLes Clos: Too early to this one; beautifully chiseled aromas of lemon zest, mineral and white fruit but not expansive; tight in the mouth with similar flavors, fine acidity and a slightly thin texture; great length. Needs another 5 years minimum and probably more. A very good wine opened before its time. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands and about $42 on release; I’d buy it again at that price. Best, Jim

2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean-François Quenard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne: A beautiful, complex, elegant wine from the Savoie with floral and white fruit smells and flavors, good acidity and substantial concentration. It’s racier than the 2005 Chignin from André et Michel Quenard and more focused but both are charming wines and delicious with lighter fare. 12% alcohol, imported by Charles Neal Selections and about $10; I’d buy more if I could find it. 2005 Dom. La Casenove, Côtes Catalanes La Garrigue: Extracted, tannic wine that is meant for heavy food and red meat; plenty of red and black fruit flavors but its ponderous and just too tannic for me. 14.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12; I won’t buy it again. 2005 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Tardive: When first opened, it is a delight with supple, satiny textures and great red fruit aromas and tastes; after about an hour the tannins start to suck-up the flavors and turn this into a firm, rustic textured thing that is obviously well endowed but needs cellar time. Day two: even better than upon first opening; depth, character, integration but still plenty of flair and intensity. A dream of what the best Fleurie can be; one that comes true. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $20; I bought plenty. 2004 Las Rocas, Rosado: A rosé of old vine grenache that is scented with strawberry and stone; tastes juicy and bright and has a nice clean, flavorful finish. A delightful, tank fermented wine for sipping without food or for light lunches. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $3; I buy it by the case. 1998 Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne: Young, tannic and tight on opening – as though one were tasting in a fog; later it comes more together and emphasizes its earthy, powerful fruit and its Volnay roots. A flavor-filled drink but only when given sufficient air and good food to accompany. Deserves further cellar time. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15, on sale; I bought all I could at that price. Best, Jim

1999 Prager, Chardonnay Smaragd: Reminds me of Chablis without much flesh but also has the floral high tones of many Austrian wines; much different than prior bottles that were nothing but structure, this has solid chardonnay fruit, no wood or malo indications, great cut and even some complexity which matches nicely with a chicken Cesar salad. 13% alcohol, importer unknown (I’d guess a Carolina Wine direct import) and about $20 on sale; I won’t buy anymore but I’m glad I have a couple bottles left. 2004 Artadi, Rioja Orobio: Very young and showing it but also a character driven Rioja with red plum, dusty black cherry and new leather scents and flavors; a satin textured, slightly spicy, fine grained wine with substantial tannins and a medium length, tannic finish. This needs several years in the cellar but despite its concentration and intensity, it does not come across as CA style. I think this has potential and I will buy a few for 3-8 year storage. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I’ll buy a few more. 2004 Varner, Chardonnay Home Vineyard: Bright scents of white fruit, vanilla and grapes; a silky texture, flavors that follow the nose and good balance; a medium length, oaky finish. This wine is over-oaked and it’s as simple as that. But the raw materials are pretty compelling and, I think, a little cellar time may make a difference in the overall profile. But I could be wrong. If I want a Santa Cruz Mountain chardonnay, I’ll stick with Rhys. 14.6% alcohol (none showing) and about $40; I won’t buy it again. 2005 André et Michel Quenard, Chignin: A really beautiful wine; aromatic, dense yet bright, fresh, ripe fruit, good depth and fine length. Very easy to drink with or without food and ready now. Delicious, thirst quenching, memorable juice. 11% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $12; I’d buy more at that price. 2005 Lapierre, Morgon: A lighter weight version of the vintage and more Burgundy than Beaujolais; a good wine and it will probably get even better with time in the cellar but there are so many exceptional 2005 Beaujolais that this just runs a second for me. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $18; I’ll not buy anymore. 2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Fleurie: The essence of black raspberry on the nose with power and breadth; flavors echo the nose with depth, concentration, good grip and excellent length. A tooth-stainer and not near as light on its feet as the 2004 version nor as typical of the terroir – that said, it is a potent, structured wine that obviously needs time in the cellar. Not yet of a piece and fairly closed today. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17; I’d buy it again. 2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Morgon: Restrained on the nose - a little sour cherry, some blackberry and minerality – pretty closed; tannic and disjointed on the palate but very intense, bright fruit that follows the nose, again its tight; long, dusty finish. Showing every bit as young as the Fleurie (maybe more so) but truer to its terroir and, with air, develops a very nice texture and opens some. ‘Needs a good bit of cellar time. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $15; I’d buy it again. 2005 Terres Dorées (J.P. Brun), Moulin a Vent: A very angry wine, tannic, dark, closed and disjointed; not without obvious ripe fruit and extraordinary length (I could still taste it 4 hours after the last sip) but there was no evidence of place or even variety – at first I thought it was Nuits St. Georges. Maybe it was travel shock, maybe it was lack of decanting but, whatever, it’s much too early in its life to make a sound assessment. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17. Best, Jim

2004 Dom. D’Aupilhac Lou Maset: Upon opening, very forward and pretty simple cherry aromas and flavors with hints of salt and meat; evolves quickly into a more complex and interesting wine that has a mineral edge and several layers of red fruit with good length. Not a profound wine but much more than a quaffer. 14% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $10; I’d buy it again at that price. 2003 Cape Mentelle, Chardonnay Margaret River: Smells of very gentle oak and ripe chardonnay; its full bodied and tastes a lot like chardonnay from Napa but without the overwhelming oak, a little buttery, slightly sour, decent acidity – a sort of sociable wine; medium, slightly flat finish that does show its oak. It’s not objectionable by any means but this will never be something I would buy again or order out – my taste requires something leaner, more intense and racier; this is just kind of diffuse, oaky and affable. 14.5% alcohol (but no heat noticed), imported by Clicquot Inc. and about $20; I’ll not buy it again. 2004 Cuatro Pasos, Bierzo: From 80 year old mencia vines; Somewhat closed but Chinon-esque on the nose with cranberry, dried herbs and earthy tones; firm and tannic but stuffed with flavors that are mostly in the black fruit register, good complexity, balanced but still showing slightly disjointed; long, drying finish. A wine of character that is authentic to its place and could not be confused with many other wines. Needs a few years in the cellar. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I will definitely buy more. 2005 Tikalo, Albaliza: 65% tempranillo and 35% grenache; ripe fruit smells with a touch of earthiness; about the same on the palate with substantial tannin; medium length finish. A balanced wine from anywhere made of anything – ‘nothing wrong with it but nothing to distinguish it. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $7; I won’t buy it again. 2005 Diochon, Moulin-à-Vent VV: Obviouslu MaV on the nose; big and very tight with a brooding delivery and a solid finish. Its almost too closed to glean any impressions – not that that ever stopped me – while I think this good wine and has the character of its place and the potentuial to improve, I don’t think it rises to the top of the heap in this vintage’s Beaujolais. But I could be wrong about that so I will buy a couple to cellar. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $17; I’ll buy more at that price. 2000 Chat. La Casenove, Côtes du Roussillon Cuvée Cdt François Jaubert: Big wine with lots of flesh, black cherry flavors primarily and good balance. It does not have any really distinguishing character nor is a flavor profile I find especially appealing. Still the wine is well-made, ripe and smooth and would be good accompaniment to stronger flavored fare. 14.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12; I won’t buy it again at that price. 2000 J. P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos: A beautiful Chablis nose that is both bright and deep with good complexity and a very fresh aspect; rich in the mouth without hint of wood, mineral driven, ripe fruit, excellent acidity, good balance and real finesse; great length. A terrific example of Chablis, if not the vineyard, with years ahead of it in the cellar even though it is delicious today. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $42 on release; I’d buy more if I could find it at that price. 1997 Louis Michel, Chablis Montèe de Tonnerre: Actually, very similar to the foregoing wine with a slightly looser texture and a bit more complexity. It gave me the impression that it is fully mature now and that any further time in the cellar should be measured. A delight, as any good, mature Chablis 1er is. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands, price unknown. Thanks Lee. 1997 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos: A whole ‘nother level – at first I thought this wine was thin but I soon realized that it was just delicate – and considering the vineyard, I wasn’t prepared for that. But it gained weight and focus during the evening and although it never stopped being a feminine rendition of Clos, it achieved a complexity over time that was really something to behold. 13% alcohol, imported by Vineyard Brands, price unknown. Thanks Lee. 1988 Dom. Chandonde Briailles, Pernand Ile des Vergelesses 1er: Fresh and firm with excellent intensity, great balance, good complexity, mainly black cherry fruit and some very stony, mineral laden accents; I would have guessed Corton had I not seen the bottle. In no danger of fading, I’m sure this has another decade in the cellar. An eye-opening experience, as I have had very few wines form this area. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Adventures in Wine, price unknown. Thanks Lee. Best, Jim

2001 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Wylie-Fneaughty: A big wine but one with focus; olive, cherry and dark fruits on the nose with a bit of smoke in the background; the palate echoes those flavors but shuts down at mid-palate – its like you’re walking down a long hallway and all of a sudden, the lights go out; you know there’s lots of hallway left but since its dark, you put your hands out in front of you as you start to walk again and immediately touch a wall – the finish is solid and lasting. I think this needs several years, yet its complex, delineated and concentrated even now. Served with swordfish with olive compote; this was a marvelous pairing. 14.4% alcohol, about $30 and I’d buy it again at that price. 1996 Trimbach, Riesling Clos Ste. Hune: Expansive riesling nose with a resinous/oxidative component; very intense and remarkably concentrated in the mouth, lots of white fruit flavors, firm, bright acidity, ripe but not even a hint of RS, very precise and just plain stunning length. It’s still youthful and coiled but it has good viscosity on the palate and the intensity of the flavors is almost painful. A marvelous accompaniment with garlic and sorrel soup and swordfish salad. 13% alcohol, about $85 on sale (and why any retailer with even an ounce of common sense puts Ste. Hune on sale is beyond me) and I would buy it again at that price. 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Mineral driven, 100% garganega from the Soave region, this is clean, ripe and bright with good depth of flavor and nice length. Beautiful with tomato and mozzarella salad. Imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17; I’d buy it again at that price. 2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bon Bâtons: Very silky wine that is still showing young and fresh and maybe a little closed; but charming, dry, fruit driven Burgundy that has good length and went well will mushroom pasta. Imported by Rosenthal and about $22; I’d buy it again at that price. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: My benchmark for this vintage in Fleurie and the Beaujolais from this vintage I most enjoy; very rich and full with some floral notes in the nose and excellent depth on the palate. I heard someone say this was sweet but I can’t find that; I do get lots of dry extract and a ripe flavor profile but I also get nuance and breed – I just adore this wine. Marvelous with (or without) assorted cheeses. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; as good a twenty dollar wine as I’ve ever had. 2004 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: I have written a number of notes on this wine; suffice it to say that it is a balanced, lighter weight nebbiolo that is ripe and has good length. It is however, starting to close down as the tannins become more prominent and the fruit recedes. Give it a couple of years in the cellar and it should be wonderful. Excellent with pasta with olive tapenade. Imported by Lascascio/Winebow and about $25; I’ll buy more this evening. Best, Jim

They're stored in Word and appear exactly as they appear in a post. Thus the importing would be a hell of a job. And I would have to remove all the imbedded commands. Fortunately, most websites that I post on have search functions that are more sophisticated so anybody that really wants notes from the past about Malbec or vanilla can probably get them. And I know this is going to sound a bit odd but, I don't own a camera either. I don't like to be an observer, I prefer being a participant. And I see trying to organize my notes in some formulated structure as being more about archiving and less about free flow expression. For me, tasting notes are an emotional outlet and good writing practice not an effort to create a database. But then, I'm old and crotchity - to each is ever-lovin', blue-eyed own. Best, Jim

Carolyn, I save them all but my organizational skills are poor. Thus, comparisons would take a lot of work. Best, Jim

2002 Claude Branger, Muscadet Les Gras Mouton: Unripe pineapple, white grapefruit, flowers and lime skin with a hint a vanilla that shades into nutmeg, all riding on an ocean of intense, complex minerality; tightly coiled at present but the makings are so remarkable that one senses the quality from the first sip; fabulous cut, intricate aromas and flavors, beautiful focus and a presence in the mouth that is all but forever. It should be said that I love Muscadet, believing good examples to be the best QPR white wine in the world and one of the most food friendly. But this takes my delight to new heights and its potential is such that, at peak, it would not surprise me if this was the best white wine I’ll ever taste – of course, that remains to be seen, because this obviously needs another decade or more in the cellar. Imported by Vintage ’59, 12% alcohol and about $14; worth a lot more. Profound. Best, Jim

2002 Graf Hardegg, Viognier V: Sherried nose with apricot and vinous tones; less oxidized in the mouth with a rich, full, round delivery that is balanced and flavorful; medium length finish. Perhaps, this bottle was damaged but the oxidation here was unattractive; in its absence I think this Austrian wine would have been lovely. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Wildman and about $50; I’d not pay that again. 2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois-Pupillin: Unlike other recent bottles, this bottle showed very young and had more a red color than orange; still, beautifully scented poulsard with pomegranate and cherry flavors accented with earth tones, good depth, somewhat tannic but still a lightweight elegance overall and good length. Not for everyone but I find this wine a bit of a changeling and quite fascinating. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis Dressner and about $22; I’d buy it again at that price. 1993 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain: Despite its 14 years there is still plenty of grip and bright acidity backing the powerful cassis and blackberry flavors that are accented with lots of secondary bottle bouquet and palate development in the earthy, leather-toned spectrum, no evident wood, great depth, immense complexity, excellent balance and, although still not fully resolved, the overall is a wine of great character and style. Lots of years left in the cellar but quite compelling now. Had substantial sediment that required decanting. 12.5% alcohol, $40 on release and surely worth more. Magnificent! Best, Jim

Did you happen to read the last paragraph of the article? Sad commentary. Best, Jim

2005 Tête, Juliénas: Sappy, lively, elegant, layered, supple wine that has character and lots of fruit and length. It’s a little early on the drinking curve but it’s so tasty it’s difficult to stay away from. Imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18; worth more. 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées: As usual, deeper, more viscous and fleshy than most Muscadet; also beautifully integrated and detailed with a finish forever and terrific cut. A truly great wine in every sense of the word. Imported by Louis/Dressner and $7 on sale; worth multiples of that. 1999 Nigl, Saivignon Blanc: Austrian sauvignon that smells like perm solution and tastes similar, although not as bad. I have had other bottles of this that have been lovely. I’ll leave it in the fridge awhile and see if it changes. Imported by Michael Skurnick wines and about $24 on release; judgment reserved. 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Soave with bite; all garganega, no wood and so fresh and lively in the mouth it even pairs with fresh tomatoes, yet there is also depth of flavor and good sustain, making this one very versatile and delicious wine. Imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17; I’d buy it again at that price. 1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet: Smokey bacon, black raspberries, garrigue and mineral nose that is so complex its hard to stop smelling it; flavors follow the nose with some depth, excellent complexity, a silken texture, a solid structure and an endlessly layered finish. No evidence of brett here and this was just singing. Côte-Rôtie, move over. Imported by Eric Solomon and about $9 on sale; worth multiples. Best, Jim

Eric, It depends a lot on the wine. Most wine just wants a constant temp. (usually below 70) and it will do well for months, maybe years. But if its bubbly or other delicate white, you may not have as much time. But there is no reason you can't put it in the fridge. It won't "age" much in there but if its only for a short period it should make no difference at all. And then your paranoia will be quelled. Best, Jim

Rob, I'll be at Russell's in the first week of March for about ten days and again in October for crush for about three weeks. I'd be pleased to meet you, too. Best, Jim

1999 Aldo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba: Although barbera will never me my favorite wine grape, this was really complex and nuanced, deeply fruited, with solid acidity and a long, slightly drying finish. A hell of a wine and terrific along side pasta with mushrooms. Brought in by Vias Imports and about $20; I’d buy it again at that price (and I never thought I’d say that). 2005 Kangarilla Road, Viognier: 14% alcohol, McLaren Vale fruit; apricot and apricot pit on the nose with hints of peach and spice; a bit disjointed on the palate with fresh flavors that follow the nose, good acidity and add an odd stony tang that in limited amounts is good counter-point and at higher levels is off-putting – and I seem to get a variation on how much of it is present in any one sip; medium length finish. I know near nothing about viognier except that when I look at most bottles for sale I see alcohols of 14% to 17% as a rule; and that puts me off. And this bottle probably isn’t going to bring me into the fold. Imported by Click Imports and about $16; I won’t buy it again. Anybody with suggestions for a viognier with less alcohol and a more integrated and mineral driven approach? 2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba: So I like barbera better than I thought; this is even more nuanced, more old vine intense and more deeply fruited than the Conterno above; a wine that takes time to open in the glass and has years ahead of it in the cellar. Fantastic with lentil stew. Imported by Locascio/Winebow and about $23; I’ll buy more this weekend. 2002 Allemand, Cornas: Smokey, stony black fruit with accents of red fruit on the nose; the palate follows the nose with a satin texture and a tangy, supple mouth feel that bring the flavors alive, moderate concentration, hidden structure and a medium length, very clean finish. So there you have my tasting note and it is not even close to conveying what I want to say about this wine and this producer. First, there are a handful (if that) of producers in the world who make fine wine every vintage. Allemand is one of them. 2002 was an extremely difficult vintage in the Rhône; brutal rains, devastating weather. And yet, here is the essence of Cornas. Second, when I drink this I am filled with the desire to make wine like this. I help folks who make wine in CA; some of them make syrah. But nobody makes wine that’s even close. It is a very long time between glasses that inspire as does this lovely wine. And even that is not enough. Imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35; stupidly under priced. Best, Jim

A recent accumulation of notes and impressions: 2005 Chignard, Fleurie: Light weight, authentic Fleurie with precision, finesse, some beautiful high notes and excellent balance; in other words, charming. A bit tight but a little time in the decanter (or a couple years in the cellar) will make a big difference. Delightful with turkey meat balls en brodo. About $21 and well worth it. 2001 Dom. Leon Barral, Faugères Jadis: Packed with flavor, complexity and meaty goodness but still polished and very well balanced. My first experience with this AOC and it’ll not be my last. It’s mostly carignan and syrah and built for aging yet still delicious now. Imported by Kermit Lynch, about $25 and I bought several. 2001 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel: A GSM blend from the Rozet vineyard in Paso, it’s hard not to compare it to the ’01 Los Robles Viejos from the same dirt; and I find them similar. Which means they are cut from CdP cloth but tailored to the central coast; really easy to drink now but has the structure and balance to go awhile. Bought on close-out for $5 (imagine how fast I got my shopping cart) and worth many times that price. 1991 Lolonis, Petite Sirah Orpheus: (A short pour at a tasting) Very much alive and still well structured; needs five or ten more years to resolve but carries good flavors and some complexity in a balanced, non-oaky package. Price on release unknown. 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino: Crystalline; fresh, lively, good depth, great cut, and striking details; just a joy to drink. Enjoyed with tomato and mozzarella salad one time and with veggie burgers another – excellent with both. Imported by Palm Bay Imports, about $17 and I bought a case. 2002 Baumard, Savennieres: What hasn’t been said; lovely, stony stuff that may not be the most complex chenin but it certainly is authentic to its place and delicious to drink. About $20 and I’d buy it again at that price. 2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis: A simple village wine that is not simple; utterly Chablis on the nose; rich, spicy and nuanced in the mouth with great acidity that carries the ripe flavors into a long, layered finish. Superb. About $25 and worth every nickel. 1995 Snowden, Cabernet Sauvignon: Beneath too much wood lies a smooth, complex wine with great berry fruit and lots of class. But I could not get past the oak so I don’t much care what else is there. About $45 on release and I’d not buy it again. 2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba: Another bottle I can’t seem to keep my hands off and every bit as good as the last; pretty, dusty aromatics; solid nebbiolo flavors without much depth but well delineated and good sustain. This wine goes with almost anything, is a pleasure to drink with or without food and will certainly last at least medium term in the cellar. Imported by Locasio/Winebow, about $25 and a no brainer for me. 2005 Vissoux, Beaujolais Cuvée Traditionalle: Bright, tangy and pretty but still closed. Decant or wait until next year. About $14 and I’d buy it again at that price. Best, Jim

Or 2010. That one may take awhile to come around. Best, Jim

2005 André et Michel Quenard, Chignin: It seems like every time I go to the wine store I come home with a couple more bottles of this; charming aromatics of light honey, alpine flowers, ripe pears and a nice mineral water tone; terrific on the palate as it is smooth, fleshy and deep but has mouthwatering acidity that carries it through a long, fresh finish. I’d almost believe there’s some RS here but the finish is bone dry so I suspect its just really ripe fruit. 11% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $13; a great value. 2002 Thomas, Pinot Noir (magnum): If Mugnier made Oregon pinot noir, this is what it would taste like, with black raspberry, black cherry, mineral aromas and gentle oak; all finesse in the mouth, its got fresh, bright and layered flavors that follow the nose and its earthy accents seem to bring it together; a medium length, peppery finish. Showing quite young and absent the gunpowder scents I often get from this producer’s wines; surely it could use a decade in the cellar. But on this day it was fine accompaniment to chicken with yellow rice and black beans and delicious even without food. 13% alcohol, the magnum was about $80 on release and worth every penny. 2004 Dom. d’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux: 30% mourvèdre, 28% carignan, 25% syrah, 12% grenache, 5% cinsault; 13.5% alcohol; and, 20 months in old and new wood, this Coteaux de Languedoc is meaty, salty, black fruited juice that has good body, a worsted texture and lots of length. You can feel that it’s only showing part of what it holds but that part is very good, indeed. A wine for the cellar and for now. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $15; stealing, at that price. 2002 Ogier, Syrah La Rosine: Light bodied, almost delicate Côte-Rôtie-esque wine; charming in its own right but nothing serious. Good accompaniment to chicken in red sauce. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Robert Kacher and about $19 wholesale; I’d buy it again at that price. Best, Jim

Ooops. This the first bottle of this wine I have ever seen, let alone tasted. Obviously, I have no background on the producer at all. So I appreciate the comments. (The Andre thing came up because someone did confuse them on another board. 'Sorry about that.) Oh, and all that was available to me was the 05. Best, Jim

The wine I had is from Edmond Vatan, not Andre. 'Sorry for any confusion. Best, Jim

Diane made cauliflower soup with truffle oil and toasted gruyere cheese sandwiches for lunch and I opened a 2005 Vatan, Sancerre Clos la Néore, which went very well with the meal. The wine has a reticent nose of grapefruit and cut grass but is more potent in the mouth with similar flavors, good depth, a bright but round delivery and a medium length, peppery finish. This is more delicate and classy than Didier Dageneau’s wines but has the same intensity and concentration; we both enjoyed it. Its 12.5% alcohol, imported by Wine Cellars, Ltd. and about $42, which is beyond my limit for sauvignon, no matter the quality. For dinner, Diane grilled some wild salmon rare and dressed it with a little pesto and served a side of pasta with pine nuts. Accompanying, the 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard, was really strong. Lots of bottle bouquet here and a developed and maturing nose and palate with underbrush notes, black fruit, and a brown sugar edge without any of the sweetness of sugar. A fine pairing and a wine that still has a few years to peak but one that is pretty arresting and very complex even now. This carries 13.7% alcohol and sold at release for about $35; more than worth that price considering what else one can buy these days for the same tariff. We also tried a couple of wines that had been open awhile: The 2004 Martínsancho, Rueda was a grapefruit bomb on day three with lots of that fruit spread liberally on the nose and palate with good texture, depth and sustain. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Classical Wines and about $16; I’d pay that agin. The 2001 Giacosa, Nebbilol d’Alba, Valmaggiore on day four was perfect with a dusty nose and plenty of nebbiolo power on the palate. 13% alcohol, imported by Winebow and about $20 on release; I’d buy all I could get at that price. The 2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd. was even more open and complex than on day one with lots of earthy, forest scents and flavors and that molasses note on the palate that seems to be its grounding flavor. 13.7% alcohol and better on day two than when first opened. The 2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos is so much more open and inviting on day three that it barely resembles the wine upon opening; rich, deep and nuanced, this wine will only get better with time in the cellar. 14.2% alcohol and about $25; more than worth the price. Lastly, the 1990 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon was out of this world. Powerful but balanced throughout, this brings solid fruit, terrific acidity and considerable length to Rutherford Bench Cabernet at 16 years of age. Delightful with aged sheep’s milk cheese and crackers, and damn good on its own. 13.2% alcohol and about $35 on release; I’d buy this again at that price. Best, Jim

Nope, from all over the country. Many from Chambers Street Wines in NYC but quite a few from other sources. The internet is a great tool. Best, Jim

2002 Triacca, Valtelina Superiore Sassela: We had this with porcini risotto and could not have done better; lovely nebbiolo aromatics, mostly in the upper register but more gutsy and complex on the palate; medium length finish. The complexity of this wine, even without food, was its greatest draw and the pairing made it even better. 13% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $22; although this was a gift I’d certainly buy it at that price. 2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie: A broad shouldered, well-concentrated Fleurie but Fleurie without question; bigger than most wines from this dirt but smooth with a worsted texture, good depth and lots of sweet tannin. I wish I had bought more – I really love this wine and think it the best of the ’05 Beaujolais Cru wines I’ve tried; at least right now. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I’d buy more at that price. 2004 Rhys, Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains: Corked. What a disappointment! 2005 Dom. du Clos Naudin (Foreau), Vouvray Sec: Quince, stone and hints of smoke with terrific acidity and smooth textures; bright, layered and utterly of its place. Who does dry Vouvray better? Excellent with pasta and veggies. 13.2% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $29; pretty steep but good wine. 2005 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie: Closed upon opening; with a day on the counter (with stopper) it shows solid cherry and earth tones on the nose (and is identifiable as Fleurie) but fails to deliver much fruit on the palate; good structure, acidity and tannin, some fruit but pretty closed at the moment; lots of future but I’ll not open another for a year or so. Good with grilled chicken. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $19; I’d buy it again at that price. 2005 Dom. des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain), Saumur-Champigny: Immense cabernet franc that is not even worth a sip the first day open; on the second day it is fit for a king’s table of wild boar and other game dishes; captivating and expansive on the nose it is the aroma of Saumur; powerful and very concentrated in the mouth with ripe cab. franc flavors, herb hints and tooth-staining sustain. Two bottles of flavor in one and nothing out of place – stunning wine. About $25, imported by Jon-David Headrick and I will go buy a couple to store for my seventieth birthday. Whoa! Best, Jim

I thought the 2004 Terres Dorees (Brun) Fleurie was the wine I most enjoyed last year. Best, Jim