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Richard Kilgore

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore

  1. I guess the best advice here hjas been to buy individual pieces that you know you want and will use, rather than sets. If you have an under $100 budget and are just starting out, then the CM set makes sense, knowing you will probably want to upgrade most of those pieces within a year or two in order to get single pieces of different types of cookware that best suit specific cooking applications.

    If you are not locked into an under hundred dollar budget, you have some great alternatives. For example, you can piece together a significant set of restaurant quality cookware such as Sitram and an enamelled cast-iron Dutch(French) oven for $300 - $350. And they will last forever. You'll keep them and use them even if you add some copper pieces later.

    That said, I think the CM aluminum disk stock pots are a great deal if you can still find them. The only better deal I have found is the Tramontana 22 (24?) qt stockpot with ss lid (rather than glass like the CM has) at Sam's Club for about $50. Most of us do not make stock each week at home, so they tend to be important peices that get light use.

  2. Thanks, Pam, for this interesting demo. I have not had a knish in a very long time. Looks like fun to make.

    Add me to the growing list of those who have never, ever seen a fried Knish in Winnepeg.

  3. I thought the story was funny, but it  was so unnecessary for her to put down the egullet testing team.

    Her testing methods were a bit sloppy.  I question why anyone would make a  fava bean cassoulet in the middle of winter?  Why mix up  "Nine pounds of fresh fava beans, husked and peeled." with nine pounds of husked beans. The recipe calls for

    peeling one cup.

    Why would a cookbook reviewer  test a recipe in an uncalibrated oven and then complain that the food burned?  And why did she substitute a crucial ingredient  and then complain about the results?

    I agree with all points. And why would anyone make a rushed cooking marathon out of this? Kind of misses part of the point of all this, no?

  4. Remember that you do not want the flames to come up over the disk and heat the ss. That will tend to scorch anything touching the plain ss sides.

    Soaking and scrubbing with a plastic scrubbie, or soaking over night, and using Bar Keeper Friend is all mine ever need. Avoid anything more abrasive than that.

    I have some of the CM tri-ply pieces and the 12" copper disk fry pan. I also have one piece of All-Clad tri-ply, and I use all of these regularly...but have started upgrading. The CM tri-ply is thinner than the All-Clad and I can tell the difference. I doubt the copper disk pans have much copper in them, but probably have a thick aluminum disk that in many ways may be superior to the tri-ply.

    Nothing wrong with any of the above so far in my experience, but they do have important limitations. If you have invested in a Viking range, you may want to consider investing in more serious cookware other than the over-priced All-Clad, not that the CM wouldn't make a good starter set. But you'll soon find the limitations of these pieces.

    You may want to check out SLKinsey's excellent eGCI course on Understanding Stovetop Cookware.

  5. Well, I would like to learn more about European cooking, mostly French. I am not an amateur cook and I can do most recipes with no problem but would like to move past just following a list of to-do's. What I'm looking for is restaurant type of dishes with great presentations for dinner parties and so on

    I would love to learn more about the fundamentals so it makes it easier to figure out what dish will work with what side etc... Basically to start creating and thinking like a chef.

    I hope I'm making sense.

    This helps narrow it down a little. My understanding from what you have said so far is that you are an advanced home cook, not a professional, and would like to expand and develope your fundamental skills and knowledge of European cooking --- especially of French cooking techniques.

    So help us help you by narrowing it down a little further. Do you already make your own stocks and sauces? What kinds of cooking do you already do that you enjoy the most? Can you tell us any French dishes or chefs you are particularly interested in? Any general types of French techniques? Any region of France in particular? Can you describe any examples of plating in books or magazines that have impressed you?

  6. One problem with the review, which I found humorous and entertaining in many respects, is the misleading distortion of the testing process. She didn't ask apparently, so she doesn't know that there were three testers for each recipe, which were then tested yet again by Paula.

    Nor did she mention that anyone can get help with the recipes and their questions answered right here in this thread in the eG Forums.

  7. Hello everyone!

    I need your advice, or for that matter any input of the following books.

    Have you used them? What did you like or did not like. Do you still use any?

    I've been cooking for year and want to improve my skills. I am looking for a book that will grow with me. I would love to take some professional courses eventually when work/life isn't as busy.

    So, this is the list I've gathered so far, please pass on you reviews.

    -The Cook's Book, by Jill Norman

    -I'm Just Here for the Food: Food + Heat = Cooking, by Alton Brown

    -On Cooking: Techniques From Expert Chefs, by Sarah R. Labensky

    -Essentials of Professional Cooking, by Wayne Gisslen

    -La Varenne Pratique,by Anne Willan

    -The Professional Chef, Seventh Edition, by Culinary Institute of America

    -Professional Cooking, by Wayne Gisslen

    Of course, feel free to suggest any other book.

    Thanks in advance

    It may help us to make useful suggestions if you can tell us more about what types of cooking you want to learn more about and what your goals are? Cooking in a restaurant? Cooking at home? What skills are you most interested in improving?

  8. Department of you say pancake and I say hashbrown:

    I have been eating smashed potato pancakes this week, made from leftovers and fried in duck fat until crispy, then flipped and crisped again. Delicious, but I love hash browns, as well as eggs for dinner, so I'll have to make Sara's version with smoked salmon soon. Yours look great Chris, but two eggs sound fine to me.

  9. I have made two from the book recently. The squash soup was wonderful. The Piment d'Espelette has a subtle fine flavor that adds a lot, and the textural contrast between the creamy soup and the crispy proscuitto de Parma and garlic rubbed baguette I used was just right.

    I also made the eggplant with garlic recently. I checked my Vietnamese grocery, which had not the small Japapanese eggplants, but long (12 inch) Asian ones. I did six of them for a large group and served 1/2 per person. They were delicious.

    I'll do both again.

  10. The newest 6 qt model, the Pro 600, was in a Cook"s Illustrated Equipment test a month or two ago and was rated first, with the similarly priced 5 qt DeLonghi and the very expensive 5 qt Hobart second and third. Against a great number of other mixers. I do recall that they said that the Pro 600 handled small quantities as well as large. It's worth reading through that article, even though some of their conclusions would find disagreement here.

    I think you can get the Pro 600 for about $370 - 400 US. Here's a Williams-Sonoma link for a look, although I realize you are in Canada.

  11. Richard can tell you how to get to Thairiffic, I ate there once with him.  Really good food.

    A search of the Texas forum using "Thai-riffic" turns up three pages of threads where it is mentioned. However the most informative may be this link to a Thai-riffic Tasting we had in the summer of 2004. Thai-riffic - hokey name, serious food - continues to be a frequent dining choice for me. Directions to the restaurant (Forrest at Webb's Chappel - not far from the Galleria) are here.

    I have eaten my way through most of the menu, but don't miss the Pik Gai Yut (Mom's stuffed chicken wings). The spring rolls are humongously good appetizers, too. The family makes their own curry pastes - none of the pre-made stuff in the container that most restaurants use (and that I use at home), and the green curry is a favorite of many. The soups are wonderful; the Tom Kha Gai is delicious and very popular, but most people overlook the Gang Jued which is a heartier soup I often have. I am also fond of the Yum Neau (similar to the Laab, but I think it is more flavorful). Neu Param is a great beef dish. For seafood, I can recommend the Goong Gratiem (sauteed prawns with garlic, red and green bell pepper, mushrooms, chili paste and black pepper). I like the squid dishes (both hot and cold) but not everyone does. So too with the Pla Jian (deep fried pomphret fish with ground pork, onions, mushroom, ginger and bell pepper). If I plan a day ahead, I call and ask them to get a bit larger pomphret fish for me; for a few dollars more I think it does better because it is meatier and is less likely to overcook.

    The Thai Tea is excellent.

    Ignore the green tea ice cream, though it's okay...and go straight to the Mango & Sweet Rice for dessert. My favorite.

    You can eat until you bust for $15 per (adult) person, tax and tip included. You can eat sensibly for $10 - 12 and have a great time. Pleasant staff and casual, friendly neighborhood atmosphere - sometimes it's like "Cheers" on Thai peppers. Tasteful decor with murals of Thailand on both long walls painted by the daughter, Noy, who also does murals and other interior artwork for homes and other restaurants.

  12. I have shopped at Whole Foods since they opened their first store in Austin, and at the predecessors of that store before then. I do a small but important percentage of my shopping at one of the stores these days, and the rest at a mainline grocery store, Central Market, a Vietnamese Market and a Carceneria/Produceria/Taqueria.

    WF is often referred to here as Whole Paycheck. The prices for many items that are available also in a mainline grocery store are usually noticeably higher, or so it appears to me and not a few others.

    A look at the Whole Foods history on their website is interesting. I am quite sure the name is a riff on "wholesome".

  13. In addition to the above, it is important to wipe the drip area with a damp paper towel (until it comes clean) every time you make a pot. You may already do this, but since it is usually out of sight, it does not occur to many people. The difference in taste is more than noticeable.

  14. We call ours' (same model) Hoth.

    Wish I'd seen this thread sooner; I'd have advised that shortly after I bought mine at CostCo last year I was in a Home Depot or a Lowe's and saw a larger model for $20 cheaper.

    :biggrin: we actually have no room/need for a larger model. I say that now. If, in a few months time .. we actually fill this thing .. we have wa-a-a-y too much food.

    By the time you get a few quarts of dark chicken stock, light chicken stock, beef or veal stock, a deer, a pig and a side of beef in there, you may be running out of space. :shock:

  15. Russell Chatham's place is The Livingston Bar and Grill. Here's a link to his website, but there is no link for the restaurant. I suggest that you email them for more information, menu, etc.

    From Russell Chatham's website

    In 1995, Chatham conceived and designed a restaurant. Chatham?s Livingston Bar & Grille was built during the first ten and a half months of 1996, opening on November 15th of that year. Having celebrated its ninth New Year?s Eve with a formal dinner and dance, the restaurant is enjoying a reputation as one of the Rocky Mountain region?s premier dining establishments.

    Chatham does not do anything poorly. I saw a fine exhibition of his work in Key West a few years ago, and the quality of his book publishing is also very high. (His paintings are used for the covers of books of fiction and nonfiction by Jim Harrison and Rick Bass.) I would bet the restaurant is the same.

    If you go, please report back.

  16. I have run into a few challenges in making the duck confit and would appreciate comments on two things. First, when I opened the packages of duck legs a few minutes ago and washed them, they had a mild sulphorous odor which concerns me. Is this normal, or should I return them? I went ahead and started the marinade for about five pounds of them due to time constraints, but I am sure Central Market here will take them back if they are bad.

    Second, is there any reason not to combine duck fat and goose fat for the confit?

  17. Hmm. After removing the label adhesive, I spilled a small amount of Skin-So-Soft on my marble slab. I wiped it, washed it with dish soap and water and sprinkled baking soda on it and let it sit overnight. Still a faint odor of the S-S-S. I am concerned that bread and pastry dough may pick it up. Any ideas about how to get it out would be appreciated.

  18. Anson Mills stone ground grits are wonderful and may well be the best anywhere, though there are other mills that make high quality grits for a little less, such as War Eagle. Cook them in a crock pot for about three hours. Try using cream instead of water sometime. Sublime either way and not even a near relative of either instant or quick grits. I pour the leftover cooked grits into a baking dish and refrigerate it overnight. Cut it into rectangles the next morning and pan fry. Eat it with butter and salt and pepper. Or with maple syrup. Real maple syrup.

    You'll have to order Anson Mills grits (yellow or white) by phone after checking out their website. They ship them out the same day they grind them. No matter of sitting on a shelf for two weeks...or two months...or two years. I freeze the packages I am not going to use immediately and take them out as needed.

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