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Richard Kilgore

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore

  1. Jason - you must, must, must go to Central Market while in Austin. It is not like anything that you can imagine. I took Steven to a CM in Dallas last year when he was here for IACP. After every twist and turn in the store his jaw dropped a little further. He had always thought it was a local chain of little gourmet shops. "Bwaaaa!" he cried. "We have nothing, nothing, nothing like this in New Yawk City!" I tried to console him with a handful of tacos from a favorite taqueria, but then he cried, tears streaming down, "Bwaaaa! We don't have anything like this either!" Only a real Texas Dr. Pepper made with cane sugar seemed to help at all, but then....

  2. I can't speak to the built in rotisserie ovens, but I have one of the larger DeLonghi counter top convection ovens with rotisserie and it works very well. I have only done chicken on it, but I think it will handle up to a 10 lb turkey.

  3. i bought the profisserie set mentioned in this thread around the first of the year. i am trying to love  the pans, but find that i seem to build up quite a bit of carbonized gook on the sides of the pan as i saute. not fond---it's just kinda burn-y blackness that has to be scrubbed and scrubbed (even with barkeepers friend and dawn power dissolver.) so far, i like my all clad a lot better. am i doing something wrong?

    Heating the sides of the pan directly should be the only reason for burned food. If you have gas burners, just watch that the flame does not go past the disk and up the side of the pan. If electric, avoid having the pan on a burner larger than the disk.

  4. Quick report back on that Sitram Profisserie stuff I got. I have noticed that, with the switch from electric to gas, I have to be thoughtful about the pan's tendency to singe right off the edge of the base, where the aluminum stops and it's just a layer of stainless. It's taking a bit of time to figure it out, but in general I still love the stuff.

    Oh, and if you're getting stainless anything, stock up on Barkeeper's Friend. It's a godsend.

    edited to fix a link -- ca

    I have two Sitram Catering evasees (9 1/2 " and 11 ") and now an 11 inch Sitram Profisserie 4.3 liter (5 qt.) saute pan. The aluminum disc on the saute pan is almost sharp edged, so I will try smoothing it slightly with steel wool. I also note that it has four spot welds on the handle, in contrast to eight on the Catering. Some room for debrie to accumulate between the welded plate and the pan, but this may not turn out to be a practical problem if it washes out easily. I chose the thick aluminim disc of the Professerie for the saute pan, based on Sam's idea that it would hold heat better than the copper disc of the Catering version, and that the latter is not really needed with an electric stove.

    Report to come after a little experience with the saute pan.

    (I should add that the Sitram lines are a bargain on Amazon due to the free shipping and frequent $25 off purchases of $125 or more. All in all, the saute pan cost only about $40.)

  5. I'm ordering the rifi, because it's so cute and funny-looking, and because bigger is better.  12-16 weeks is a long time to wait, but hey, I've waited all my life so far.

    I suggest waiting even a little longer...long enough to do the oil and ash aging treatment that Paula recommends. My rifi now looks like a 25- 50 year old pot. (I think there's a photo on this thread somewhere.)

  6. A very interesting piece in today's Times by Florence Fabricant on comparing some of the new tagines versus a traditional unglazed one.

    http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/29/dining/29kitc.html

    She is absolutely correct that you need far less liquid when preparing a tagine in an unglazed pot.

    From the article:

    Perhaps it was the use over time that has so beautifully seasoned my Moroccan tagine, but there was no doubt at the "dinner of the four tagines," as my husband called it, that the results in my old-fashioned pottery one had far more intensity and richness than the others. Each produced chicken that was nicely moist and flavorful. But the sauce from my humble tagine was the best. It even had a somewhat deeper color.

  7. Hey Richard, welcome over the border to Louisiana.  And your right, I think the only way to get the book is to order directly from Chef Folse.  There is also a cd of the book you can get.  RIchard, have you made anything from the book yet?  if so, what did you make and were you happy with how it turned out?

    I don't have the book yet. When it arrives, I'll spend some time with it and pick out something to do. I think you can order it on Amazon, but I preferred to buy it from Chef Folse. The CD appears to be a real plus, and I'll probably order it after getting familiar with the book.

  8. I also like that it has a matching coaster to rest the PepperMill on -- keeps the "dust" off the counter.

    I've had the Magnum Plus for a few years and I love it, but I wish it came with some kind of "coaster" or cover for the bottom. I keep it in my cabinet and there's always a collection of pepper underneath. Drives me crazy!

    My new Magnum came with a coaster. Perhaps this is a newer addition. You might contact the company to see if they can send you one.

  9. I also have become a Magnum convert. Ugly, ugly, but this grinder puts out a huge amount of pepper rapidly and maintains a consistent grind. It will not grind as finely as my Puegots, but I need a larger grind most of the time anyway. The Magnum replaces not the Peugots, but a 12 inch tall Olde Thompson grinder that I found a convenient length, but it would not grind as fine as the Peugot, nor as large as the Magnum, and was not good about holding a consistent grind at all.

  10. For those of you who are new to tagine cooking and may have missed it, here is a link to an extensive thread on Moroccan Tagine Cooking. Paula Wolfert, who is working on a book on clay pot cooking, provides a great deal of helpful and fascinating information on curing tagines and tagine cooking, and other members have also posted photos of their tagines and tagine dishes.

    Anything but an authentic Moroccan tagine does not hold much interest for me. I got one of the tagines from the tagines.com site that Paula referred us to and that Andie mentions upthread here.

  11. There are several threads on scales, as well as an eGCI course, the Q&A of which also has a lot of relevant discussion. You can now get a high quality kitchen scale for considerably less than $130. I got a MY Weigh KD600 as a result of the discussions and it has been great. Paula Wolfert got the same one and likes it a lot. It appears the KD-7000 has replaced it, the only difference being the new model apparenty has a beep function of some sort, and it will handle up to 15 lbs instead of 11 lbs. It's still only $44.90 US plus $7.50 for the AC adapter, plus a little for shipping.

    eGCI Course: The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

  12. Sur La Table carries heavy duty aluminum cake pans made by Magic Line -- both solid and removeable bottoms. Also check your local restaurant supply stores for heavy duty aluminum pans from makers such as American Metalcraft. They come in two and three inch depths. I added some from both sources last year, and they are far more useful and durable than grocery store cake pans.

  13. A friend asked recently for a suggestion for a Chinese restaurant to take an out of town guest for a late lunch. The guest was staying at the Anatole, so that made most of the restaurants north of 635 impractical. I searched and based on the Dallas Observer review by Mark Steurtz and one by Dotty Grifith in the Dallas Morning News I pointed him to Chef Hsu. Located on Harry Hines Blvd. Between Walnut Hill and Royal Lane, Ms. Grifith gave the restaurant 4* for both food and service, but 3* for atmosphere, suggesting this might be a sleeper.

    My friend's party of three arrived about 2:00 pm and had trouble getting waited on in the midst of the lunch buffet crowd. They were eventually brought a menu that had more typical Chinese-American menu items on it. Puzzled they asked about specific dishes that Dotty Griffith mentioned in her article. Finally the light went on and the waiter said, "Oh, you want the good menu."

    All in all, they thought the food, when it came, was very good. He suggested going at night with a group for the good menu, and asking for a private room.

  14. A somewhat less expensive version is the one made by Matfer. If has a synthetic frame and ss mesh. No stand but it sits securely on top of a stock pot. About $55. I'll try to find a link.

    I also have a China Cap --- chinois shape, but perforated metal instead of mesh screen. In making stocks I usually pass it through the China Cap first and then though the Matfer chinois.

    I have used cheesecloth in a sieve, and it is not a bad solution for small amounts of sauce or stock ocassionally, or for such as draining yogurt, but a chinois is well worth having if you make stock and sauces more than a couple of times a year.

  15. Even though the eGullet article was a foundation in education, one pressing element still remains...  how many people are actually sharpening to particular angle? for example a 15/20 degree angle?  Or is it simply sharpening to get an edge alone?

    If you sharpen a knife, you are sharpening to some particular angle. The question is, are you sharpening it to a useful one or leaving it to chance.

    You may not be any more motivated to take care of your knives by sharpening them ocassionally and steeling them as frequently as each time you use them, as you were previously. Although it makes a big differences, many people are not.

  16. I received a Michigan Maple edge grain cutting board and it is tonight soaking up Boos oil. It's a 15 X 20 X 1 3/4 with a carving ring on one side. It is a substantial chunk of wood; shipping weight was 14 lbs, and the shipping carton probably accounts for less than a pound of that.

  17. So, when people say they prefer cast iron, are we talking Le Crueset type pans or Lodge type pans?  I'm more inclined to get cast iron because of the results I get with my CI fry pans.

    Also, why hasn't clay been recommended as a roaster for veggies?

    A seasoned cast-iron skillet is fine for something like a roasted chicken, unless you are cooking something acidic -- tomato sauce, wine in the deglazed pan sauce and such. It's hard on the skillet and some people report a slightly metallic or off taste to the sauce.

    I also use enamelled LC baking pans and earthenware baking pans for roasting vegetables. A half-sheet pan also works fine.

  18. Tim Love's new tapas restaurant, Duce, expects a May opening (6333 Camp Bowie).

    And Love's NYC location for Lonesome Dove Western Bistro is shooting for a September opening.

    Taverna Pizzaria and Risotteria plans to open in Ft. Worth in the former Zoe location. Date unknown.

    Kingfish is expected to open this week in Colleyville. Inexpensive grilled seafood by chef David McMillan, and located below his 62 Main restaurant.

    Source: Bud Kennedy in the Ft. Worth Star Telegram, 8 March, 2006.

    Please send notices of openings, closings and changes to me at rkilgore@eGullet.org.

  19. The tennessean.com reports that eGullet Society member Chef Sean Brock will leave the Hermitage Hotel for McGrady's Restaurant in Charleston in two months.

    The move is somewhat surprising, since Brock was given tremendous freedom, and an equally tremendous budget, to pursue his experiments in culinary constructivism involving liquid nitrogen and protein binders such as transglutaminase. Carrying on the work of Spanish food-chemistry genius Ferran Adrià, Brock's curiosity and creativity garnered national attention for the young chef, who is still three years shy of his 30th birthday.
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