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Richard Kilgore

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore

  1. Thank you for your comments Richard. First off, I am NOT questioning Mark Stuertz' abilities.  I read the arcticle he published in November - it was a well researched article. My points are simple - I did not take a class at Tony's conducted by James Winkler; therefore I cannot say he said those things in his class.  I did however take a class conducted by a short rude frenchman who did say the things Mr. Stuertz mentioned in his article.  I did take a class by James at Premier which none of those things mentioned in the Obersver were mentioned at all. So again, my point is the intructors at the "old" Tony's obviously were saying what the previous owner Mr. Monzain told them to say.  The subject of this post is have Tony's old tactics moved to Plano - obviously they have not. My other point is the salesmen at the old Tony's did not set the pricing nor did they order the product for the store - the owner did. I do not think a personal attack on a salesman is appropriate when they are not responsible for either the product or the prices.  Obviously James quit Tony's because he didn't want to be part of that anymore. Please do not twist my words to suit your own agenda. Perhaps you should take a class at the new Tony's and one at Premier.

    Thanks again, Alison, but I am not sure in what way you see me as "twisting" your words. Today you say, "I am NOT questioning Mark Stuerz's abilities." But previously you said, "I find it hard to take seriously everything the Observer reports ( after all they have what can be considered risque advertising - massages etc.)," referring to his portrayal of James Winkler. That sounds to me like questioning the accuracy of his reporting. Maybe I am missing something.

    While I am still puzzled about your position on all this and your strong defense of Premier, James Winkler and the other salesmen who worked with Monzain I guess that it makes a certain kind of sense if you think that a salesman such as Mr. Winkler is not responsible for what they tell people about their products and what they sell to them. I think that other people, probably even most people, would see Mark Stuerz's article as "investigative journalism" rather than "a personal attack". And all anyone here has done is raise questions that the average, reasonable person might raise based on his articles.

    You also say "Obviously James quit Tony's because he didn't want to be part of that anymore," referring to Mr. Monzain business practices. While that may be the case, how could you know such a thing? People leave jobs for all sorts of reasons.

  2. Personally Richard - I have sat in Jame's class at Premier and he never said any of those things quoted by Mark Stuertz. I find it hard to take seriously everything the Observer reports ( after all they have what can be considered risque advertising - massages etc.).  The fact of the matter is that Tony's did engage in some of the practices Mr. Stuertz stated in his article - this I know because I have been there but the person I heard saying the quotes you mentioned above was the short rude french man our group had teaching the class. Besides that the Observer article also mentions a Jean Bernard and he is still working at Tony's. So whether it is the same James Winkler or not is irrelevant as he was not the one setting pricing or business pratices at Tony's it was the owner Mr. Monzain.  I am certain Mr. Monzain probably instructed his teachers on what to say. Regardless - I sincerely hope that Tony's has really turned over a new leaf and I wish Premier all the luck as well.  The group that I was with had a great time at Premier and we will be going back for another event for the Holidays.  Their staff was friendly and courteous to us, the facility was nice.

    Thanks for your comments, Alison. I am still puzzled. Let me make sure I am understanding your opinions on this.

    On the one hand you object to Mark Stuerz raising a question about the practices at Premier Wines of Plano based on the fact that the James Winkler at Premier is the same James Winkler portrayed in his original report on Tony's when it was owned by Monzain...and on the other hand you question Mark Stuerz's journalistic competence and practices based on a class of advertising in the Dallas Observer. It is also your opinion that it is irrelevant whether or not James provided wildly inaccurate information in order to sell wine (and sometimes wine, errm, well past its prime) at extraordinarily high prices, because Mr. Monzain made him do it. Is this a fair portrayal of your positions?

    While newspapers do make errors, despite armies of editors, fact-checkers and corporate attorneys, they also typically are agreeable to publishing a correction for even minor errors when it is pointed out to them. Since I have not seen a correction, or a new story in the Observer elaborating on your view that it was a case of mistaken identity, we are pretty much left with the impression that either James did not ask for a correction or that he did, but the Observer stands by its story. Perhaps you could ask James if he has simply asked for a correction.

  3. Thanks for your comments, Alison.

    I am puzzled, however, that you ignore the obvious connection between the James Winkler who was at Tony's and the James Winkler at Premier. As far as I can tell this is the same James Winkler that Mark Stuerz describes in his first Dallas Observer article on Tony's last November, Sour Grapes.

    Wine fermented and aged in French oak barrels tastes like mushrooms, Winkler says. Wine matured in American oak tastes like a campfire. The reason? In America, winery workers jump inside the barrels and scorch the sides to a thick char before they're filled with juice. In France, it all boils down to what the trees eat.

    "The tree that produces this barrel grows up against every black and white truffle in the world," he explains. "When you cut this tree down, the tree has been feeding off these mushrooms for centuries. And when you cut the tree down, all of the oil that's in these truffles is inherently in this oak."

    Hence, these barrels are expensive. Typically, a single 50-gallon French oak barrel costs between $35,000 and $65,000, Winkler says. Burnt American oak barrels carry a $30,000 price tag. Oak barrels coopered in Australia--produced from a French oak forest replica (Australia is the first country in the world to successfully replicate a French oak forest, according to Winkler)--cost roughly $40,000. This is why wines fermented and aged in oak aren't cheap. Presumably, it's also why Tony's wines aren't cheap.

    None of this is true.

    Follow the link above to Sour Grapes for more on why this is not true and what is. And another James Winkler quotable quote:

    "Rating systems and books written about wine are kind of silly to me," Winkler says to his class. "I've read them all, I've studied them all."

  4. Thanks for your report Alison. Just to clarify, I don't think anyone here (or in Mark Stuerz's Dallas Observer article), said that Premier was "affiliated" with Tony's. The questions about Premier continue because James at Premier is the James who was the lead salesperson at Tony's, so people naturally wonder if he's taking some or all of his old sales and pricing techniques with him. You may want to re-read the first Obsever article from last November.

    All wine shops have to keep much of their inventory in a back storage area (hopefully air conditioned). But they have bottles in racks on display, and my observation was that they had a fairly limited selection. They may have had many cases in storage, of course, of what appeared to be a limited selection.

    Although you paid less for Peach Champaigne than you did at Tony's, I believe that you paid at least 25% more at Premier than the going rate most other places.

    While I expect that the physical setting at Premier would be an attractive place to take business clients and friends for a class, I don't think I would be doing them any great favors if they are buying wine at significantly higher prices (25% for Peach Champaigne and over 200% for the Piper-Heidsieck Champagne-Brut) than other places.

  5. ****

    Another solution would be to do what many cooking shows do...pre-grind your seasonings right before you begin to prep/touch the meat. That way they'll be freshly ground and they'll be ready when you need them. Then there's no need for a one-handed peppermill.

    Right. This works well and saves some hand washings.

  6. Any pricing variances found to normal retail?

    I visited Premier recently. Attractive space with some of the furniture on loan from a furniture store. Surprisingly small inventory, or so it seemed from what I could see.

    They had Piper-Heidsieck Champagne (Brut) at the highest price I have seen...$59+! It runs $27 at Costco and in the mid $30s at some wine shops. There may be some good deals in there, but this was not one of them.

  7. I have seen..and whacked the new Schott Zwiesel glasses, using titanium and zirconium instead of lead. Whacked it on the bowl and whacked it on the rim. Wow! At least two ranges as far as I can tell -- the classico at about $7.50 per stem and the Top Ten at about $15 per stem. Schott Zwiesel

    Is anyone using these?

    Correction - in this area the classico range runs $10 US, the Top Ten about $14.50 US and the Diva range in between those at about $13 US. The dealer said the company sees the Diva as likely to be their best seller, but the stems I saw in that range are tall, top-heavy empty, and with huge capacities...up to 29 ounces!

  8. Moderator's Note: I have received an email from someone reporting their experiences at both Tony's and Premier. While I am not going to pass on information I have received in an email, this individual has been invited to join the Society and take part in the discusion.

    Has anyone had an opportunity to visit Premier, take a class or just take a look at what they have available, the facility and their pricing for classes and wine? Is their marketing and pricing similar to or different than Tony's?

  9. I have seen..and whacked the new Schott Zwiesel glasses, using titanium and zirconium instead of lead. Whacked it on the bowl and whacked it on the rim. Wow! At least two ranges as far as I can tell -- the classico at about $7.50 per stem and the Top Ten at about $15 per stem. Schott Zwiesel

    Is anyone using these?

  10. I gathered that the label color has to do with age.  So, if 12 years is roughly in the $60 - $70 range, then what color label is that?  And what color label (and what age ) would be one higher and one lower than that?

    I was not clear, or perhaps I am not understanding your question, so please bear with me. Colors of labels do not necessarily mean anything. As far as I know a producer can make labels any color they choose. One producers red may not be the same thing as another producers red. You have to read the label or the description in order to find out how old it is. But my understanding is that there is no true balsamic younger than 12 years, although many things are labeled balsamic with no age designation, or an 8 or 10 year designation. (See alberto's post upthread.) For older than 12 year balsamic you are looking at spending $90 - 150 US or more.

    Hope that helps.

  11. Welcome to the eGullet Society, Alexis.

    The topic of Native American foodways potentially includes a rather large geographical area: at least Canada to Mexico and Pacific coast to Atlantic coast, though you could extend that to Central and South America. Were you asking specifically about tribes in the "Heartland" states or is your interest broader?

  12. I don't think there is any Italian regulatory authority meaning to the colors of the labels, but rather it is a producer's way of indicating bottles of different ages (or if not true balsamic, of different whatever), but I could be wrong. The important thing is to read the words on the labels or product description very carefully. Consider Alberto's (Albiston) post a few posts upthread, as well as the link to The Rare Wine Company in docsconz post. In the $60 - 70 US range you are looking at 12 year old balsamic.

  13. Moderator's Note: Since there are local Dallas, Texas area issues, as well as general issues of wine retail marketing ethics and consumer vulnerability and gullibility involved in Mark Stuerz's Dallas Observer articles, there are now two threads in the Texas forum for the local issue discussions:

    Can DiBias turn around Tony's Wine Warehouse?

    Tony's Old Tactics Move to Plano?

    Please carry on here with the marketing ethics, vulnerability and gullibility discussion.

  14. Mark Stuerz in the Dallas Observer reports that some of the controversal tactics used at Tony's Wine Warehouse when it was owned by Michel Monzain are surfacing at Premier Wines of Plano, lead by some of Monzain's former staff. See the related discussion in the Wine forum and the discussion on the new Tony's here in the Texas forum.

    ..., a couple of former Tony's employees led by instructor James Winkler have moved up north, birthing Premier Wines of Plano at the corner of Parker and Preston roads. And Premier seems to have pulled at least one page from the Tony's playbook. Posted on eBay May 29 is a wine-tasting class for 35 featuring "Classic Wines From Europe" valued at $1,350. For a June 25 Chris Ward dinner at Mercury Grill benefiting the Greyhound Adoption League of Texas, Premier donated a group wine tasting valued $1,000.

    We'll see....

  15. I think you will find that most brands, including Reidel, offer both lead crystal and non-lead crystal (glass). Here's a link to the Riedel pages on the Wine Enthusiast site. If you look through, you'll see that the Vinum and Sommelier series are leaded, and that the stemless "O" glasses and the Wine series are non-leaded glass. I believe the Riedel Overture series is also non-leaded, but it isn't displayed in those pages.

    According to the article above, there is no reason not to use lead crystal wine glasses.

    If you want to use a fine crystal decanter to decant, you can...just don't store the wine in it. You can always double decant back into the wine bottle. But most wine does not need to be decanted, and can be degraded by doing so. If it is important to you for whatever reason to store the leftover wine in a decanter, then non-lead glass appears to be the way to go.

  16. I picked up an 8 lb belly last night and divided it up into three pieces, plus some pieces for salt pork. The three main pieces I did the basic three ways mentioned in the book: plain, maple syrup and savory. Since these were then smaller 1.5 to 3.0 lb pieces, I put each one in a one gallon bag rathe than a 2 gallon and I used 45 gm basic cure rather than 50.

    I'm making this up these adjustments as I go, so I would appreciate it if anyone sees any problem with the bag size or the amount of cure.

    This appears to be working okay, except that one bag leaked. It appears it was only the maple syrup version. So what's the impact of losing that fluid? Should I add some cure and a little water and/or maple syrup now, or just leave it alone?

  17. I don't particularly care for them for some of the reasons cited above, but a guy at a local shop persuaded me when he mentioned that he got some to take to outdoor musical concerts in the park. And they were on sale for $6.50 each. That said, my understanding is that they are not the Vinum without a stem, but rather the less expensive Overture (non-leaded) without a stem. Am I mistaken?

  18. I picked up an 8 lb belly last night and divided it up into three pieces, plus some pieces for salt pork. The three main pieces I did the basic three ways mentioned in the book: plain, maple syrup and savory. Since these were then smaller 1.5 to 3.0 lb pieces, I put each one in a one gallon bag rathe than a 2 gallon and I used 45 gm basic cure rather than 50.

    I'm making this up these adjustments as I go, so I would appreciate it if anyone sees any problem with the bag size or the amount of cure.

  19. I stopped in Mandola's last Monday for the first time. It's an attractive, pleasant place with a congenial staff. The wall with framed photos of tens of historic Italian markets in the US sets the stage as you walk in the door to the cafe area.

    I too was a little disappointed in the meats. Domestic mortadella rather than the imported Italian I get in Dallas at the Sigel's Deli, for example. But there are some real bargains in the condiments section. Though the staff does not always know what is what. I asked if a bottle of balsamico with a huge 12 emblazoned on the box could possibly really be 12 year old at that price. The guy said yes indeed. I did some research this week and it is not, indeed, but I don't think he was trying to deceive. I absolutely think that he was mislead by the labeling as much as I was. On the other hand, the stuff is still useful (vanilla ice cream with sliced strawberries and drizzled with this 12 whatever, not bad), and it is a lot less than it costs on Amazon. A lot less.

    For a late lunch I had bruschetta topped with arugala, goat cheese, salami and perhaps a few other items, drizzled with olive oil. Very tasty. My luncheon companion had a cold cooked vegetable salad. I tried it and it was very good too. I would gladly order either one again.

    I'll stop in again next time I'm in Austin.

  20. Openings

    Trece, June 19

    Chef-owner Amador Mora, previously at The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Contemporary Mexican, plus a tequila lounge. (Former Sipango location)

    Shinsei, late June

    Executive chef Casey Thompson, formerly at The Mansion at Turtle Creek and executive sushi chef Shuji Sugawara, formerly at Teppo Yakitori and Sushi Bar, as well as Tei Tei Robata Bar. Owners Lynae Fearing and Tracy Rathbun.

    Closings

    Il Molino New York (Dallas). High price points required in liscensing agreement did it in.

    George...to be replaced with Urban Bistro Mediterranean Cuisine by Avner Samuel.

    Source: Dotty Griffith, Dallas Morning News

  21. On a related note, I purchased a Le Creuset kettle 6 weeks ago. I have treated with the usual care, making sure to empty it between uses. I just noticed a rusted chip by the spout, and another on the bottom. Has anyone had similar problems? It appears that the enamel on steel does not have the same warranty as the cast iron.

    I had this happen, too, though after several months. Just take it back to the retailer you bought it from and get something else.

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