Me, for sure I am not able to tell (I know, 'cause I've tried) I would mainly guess though that commercial yeast provides an improved consistency in the palette. It will certainly partially come down to what one is looking for, consistency between years, bottles etc., or the unique taste of a specific year, vineyard etc. I do have some impression, however, that there's a certain amount of marketing strategy and spin in the 'natural yeast' movement.