JAZ

I agree with you on this one. I really like Incanto, and since it's close to my apartment, I eat there fairly often. I had also heard people rave about this dish, so when I finally ordered it I was expecting greatness -- especially since other pasta dishes I've had there were fabulous. There wasn't anything bad about it, but it just wasn't great. I thought maybe I had it on an off night for the kitchen, or that I was crazy. I'm kind of glad to know I'm not the only one who didn't love it.

I assume from your description that you mean the sauce was too thin? If that's the case, it seems to me that you should just reduce it longer, to the consistency you want it. Was there some other reason you felt that wouldn't work?

Good memory, Andie. They do rest in the slot in the handle while you're cooking. Another thing I really like about them is that the handles are welded rather than riveted, which makes the pans much easier to clean up. And more so than any other metal-handled cookware I have (Mauviel professional copper and All-Clad), the "stay-cool" handles actually stay cool. The lid handles also stay cool, totally unlike the others. On the other hand, this stuff is not cheap, though. It's not quite as expensive as copper, but it's more than All-Clad.

I think it's a mistake to lump all "stainless" pans together -- sure, there are some thin, cheap stainless pans, but there are also some very good clad or disk botton pans (aluminum or copper core). If you want the responsiveness of a thick copper bottom but not the upkeep of copper, you can do worse than Demeyere Atlantis or Sirocco saute and sauce pans. These are Sirocco -- the saute pan in front and a saucepan in back. Of course you can't tell that they have a thick copper disk bottom, but they do. In fact, the sautepan is just as heavy as a copper one the same size. They can also be used on an induction stove, so if you think you'll ever go that route, Demeyere is a much wiser choice than copper. Which is not to say that I don't like copper, because I do. I recently got a couple pieces for candy and sugar work, and they're the best pans I've ever used for that.

From the description of the sauce, I'm guessing it's rich, creamy and sweet. If that's the case, I'd suggest something a little bitter to offset both the sweetness and richness. Sauteed chard or arugula, maybe?

I was at Cortez a few weeks ago and the bartender there told me that Todd Smith, the ex-bar manager at Cortez, is one of the people behind Bourbon and Branch. Not sure if he's one of the owners or just working there, but he does make very good drinks.

Here it is -- but not in cross section, unfortunately.

I find that the coffee from percolators is acceptable right when it's brewed -- the problem comes if it sits around, reheating. So along with the percolator, invest in some big airpots, and pour the coffee into them right when it's brewed. You'll have much better results.

I had a roommate in college whose mother cooked everything from packages and cans -- including mashed potatoes -- so she never learned to really cook. She was out of college at her future mother-in-law's house when she finally learned how to make them from scratch. My mother made mashed potatoes often, and always from scratch (although she'd use the Betty Crocker boxed scalloped potato mix), but hers were the "whipped" variety -- made with the hand mixer and lots of milk. That's how I learned, but I prefer a ricer now.

So, it seems that Andrew is famous. A Tipple over the Top

If anyone's looking for a smaller LC pot, check out this one just listed on eBay through the eG Shopping Block auctions.

This is something I made a lot this summer -- it was based on a drink from a Martha Stewart Living magazine, but I ended up changing it quite a bit. Since it didn't really have a name, I was simply calling it the Basil and Lillet drink, and that was eventually shortened to the Ballet. Shake together with lots of ice: 2 oz. Lillet Blonde 1 oz. gin 1 oz. orange juice dash orange bitters small handful of basil leaves Pour it out over ice in a tall glass and top with soda (good) or dry champagne (great). I also experimented with adding a few strawberries to the mix, and called that the Strawberry Blonde. This photo is of the latter.

Here are some possibilities: Avocational: Ramekins in Sonoma Sur La Table has classes at the San Francisco-Maiden Lane, Los Gatos, and Santa Rosa stores Some Draeger's Stores have cooking classes Vocational: Tante Marie in San Francisco -- also has avocational classes and shorter courses California Culinary Academy (Cordon Bleu) City College in San Francisco

I wanted to let everyone know that Kerry's first class in the eGCI "Confectionery 101" course is starting today -- it covers Caramel.

Depending on your guests, pick a drink that's suitable to their level of openness. Margaritas are a pretty good option, especially for cocktail novices (and if made well, they won't offend more sophisticated drinkers -- I called the Margarita the universal donor of drinks). If your guests are a little more adventurous, you might try a Pegu Club. Have the first batch of drinks ready to shake when your guests arrive. Add the ice, shake away, and say, "Who wants a Pegu Club (or whatever your choice is)?" Ignore any inquiries as to what's in it -- if you tell them, someone's bound to say, "Oh, I hate gin" or "I can't drink gin -- it makes me crazy!" Just say, "It's the signature drink at one of the hottest cocktail lounges in Manhattan." If they look dubious, tell them it's "kind of like a Cosmopolitan, but much better" and pour them a small drink. (Of course, if they really don't want a drink at all, don't force the issue. That's why you have club soda or tonic). The point is not to give them a choice about what they drink. After they've tried it, you can offer something else, if you like. I've found you can do this with most moderately accessible drinks -- I wouldn't try Negronis, Sazeracs or Monkey Glands, or anything with Chartreuse in it.

I second that! Please do place some of your items up for bid, to sell them on eBay, and donate all or a portion of your proceeds to the eGullet Society. ← You mean there's something else to do with the immersion blender I got for Christmas besides watch it collect dust in the laundry room? ← In case anyone is interested, I did list it for sale here.

What she said. Perhaps you've missed Cook-Off I: Cassoulet Cook-Off III: Gumbo Cook-Off V: Fried Chicken Cook-Off X: Meatloaf and Burgers Cook-Off XI: Ice Cream, Gelato, Sorbet, and Sherbet Cook-Off XII: Composed Salads Cook-Off XIII: Fresh and Stuffed Pasta, including Gnocchi Cook-Off XV: Chili Cook-Off XVI: Potato Pancakes Cook-Off XVII: Sausages Cook-Off XIX: Eggs, Beaten, With Stuff In Them Cook-Off XX: Chowdah/Chowder Cook-Off XXI: Risotto Cook-Off XXIII: Crêpes Or there are these topics on roasted chicken. Can't get much more basic than that: "Roasting Chicken, The gospel according to e-gulleteers . ." "Roasting a chicken, Help" "Roasted Chicken - What I did, And a question: Whole chickens vs parts" "Roasting a chicken, it's about time" "Back to Basics: Roasting Chicken" Or if those don't measure up, try these: Potato salad, Macaroni and Cheese, or Soups. Then there are these eGCI courses: Stocks and Sauces Course Introduction, Intro Q&A, Simmering Unit, Simmering Q&A, Straining, Defatting and Reducing Unit, Reduction Q&A, Stock-Based Sauces Unit, and Sauces Q&A Non-Stock-Based Sauces Course and Q&A Cream Sauces Course and Q&A All About Eggs Introduction, FAQ, The Wit & Wisdom of Eggs, Hard-Cooked Eggs Course and Q&A, Poaching Eggs Course and Q&A, Omelettes and More Course and Q&A, Souffles Course and Q&A, Cooking Eggs With With the Pros Course and Q&A Pasta Around the Mediterranean Course and Q&A Stuffed Pastas Introduction, Course on Pansotti, Tortelloni and and Raviolo, Course on Tortelli, Ravioli & Cappelletti, and Q&A The Potato Primer Course and Q&A Risotto Course and Q&A Leaf Salads Course and Q&A And that's just off the top of my head.

It does sound unlikely -- in fact, I have to admit it sounded strange and unappealing when I first read the description. But it was intriguing, and I found myself mentally adding the components, mingling them in various ways, and now I'm convinced they could work. Yet another evening of experimentation awaits, I can tell.

Given these requirements, it seems that The Omnivore's Dilemma is out, as is anything by Ruth Reichl or MFK Fisher. I did love Kitchen -- forgot about that one. Although I enjoyed The Devil's Larder, my book group gave it very mixed reviews. As for Bourdain's fiction, I liked Bone in the Throat.

Here are a few novels that involve food and cooking that I've read in various book clubs: Secrets of the Tsil Cafe by Thomas Fox Averill The Book of Salt by Monique Truong My Year of Meats and All Over Creation by Ruth Ozeki A Debt to Pleasure by John Lanchester

Last year during cardoon season, a friend and I bought some at the farmers' market. Of course we had no idea what to do with them, but in Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini we found a recipe for a warm potato and cardoon salad dressed with an anchovy-lemon-garlic vinaigrette. It was excellent (and pretty good cold too, the next day). If you can't find cardoons, artichoke hearts would be close. Or you could just make the salad with potatoes.

I didn't realize there was that much wine production in Israel. Do they concentrate on any particular varietals? The article mentioned Chardonnay; what else is grown there?

Just a note to what Suzy said: in my incredibly low-end gas oven, there really isn't a "broiler drawer" to pull out. The door to it opens out, and then there's a rack that can be moved closer to or farther from the flame -- it pulls out a little way, but too far and it falls. It's got to be the worst designed broiler I've ever seen. Let's hope yours isn't this style.

I wasn't sure I'd like the Earl Gray MarTEAni, but it works really well. I think tea is like any other potential ingredient -- you can't use it indiscriminately, but it works in some recipes. The tannins make it pretty astringent, so you particularly have to watch that aspect of it.

The lard from around the kidneys is indeed thought to be the best, but it's not called fat back, it's called leaf lard. Here is some basic information on lard.