EatNopales

In Mexico, the phrase Grilled Cheese literally means Grilled Cheese (or griddled, roasted etc.,)... although Asadero is specifically made for this purpose, the technique is a great way to use leftover Fresco & Panela cheeses that are either getting a bit dry & oozing liquid. For lunch today the Queso Asado was paired with an intoxicatingly delicious sauce of Roasted Poblanos, Oregano Indio & Greek Yogurt... some cherry tomatoes seasoned with escabeche juices & black pepper, & leftover Amaranth "totopos" To make the cheese, I macerated the slices in olive oil & Mexican oregano overnight then broiled on a cookie sheet at 450F

FYI anyone interested... Amaranth Crusted Squash Blossom salad with dried chile vinaigrette recipe under Menu 6. http://oncetv-ipn.net/rincon/nuevo/ Amaranth Canoli recipe http://oncetv-ipn.net/lasmananasenelonce/saboresdemexico/index.php?l=programa3

That's exactly it, MaxH. No one is paying anyone or soliciting anyone to write reviews here on eG like they are on sites like Yelp. While you might get a review that's considered bad advice here, it is still posted by a well-meaning society member who hasn't been paid or comped, or has made those facts known. Shills are usually quickly ferreted out. I should hope none of the things MaxH mentioned is being done currently, but I have no doubt people have used websites such as eG to "help out" friends in the business, whether those friends be restaurant owners, chefs, or even publishing agents and their relatives. Once you hear of such actions by persons, it's difficult to trust their judgments ever again. On another board, a chef once mentioned how some bloggers and/or posters on food boards have made themselves "known" to the house (of restaurants where he has worked) with comments as subtle as "Do you know who I am?" Those guests then expect to be given comps and other privileges. Should I trust the reviews of those board members whom he mentions? I do not feel I can, and although he named no names, I pretty much disregard reviews from regular posters to that particular regional board. In my opinion, an expected/a demanded (even if that demand is only implied) comp is the same as a payment. If anyone doubts what I write and needs a link to the above chef's post (or a quotation from it), I would be happy to oblige via PM. But yes, afaik, the bad recs I've received are from people whose tastes merely differ from mine. My point was that one must be just as critical in choosing whose reviews to trust as in choosing which restaurants at which to dine. No harm in thinking for oneself rather than blindly following any one person, blog, board, etc. Actually a blogger with good taste, good food descriptions etc who likes the food at a place so much they give up their honor for free meals there... that is the type of place I might want to go eat at! Free Market at work!

I for one, am dissappointed that Tony pulled his punches... and the his tweet what a wuss!

In fact, although I'm no camper and have never done it, my backpacking friends tell me that in the morning, they routinely put regular raw, dry rice into a plastic bag, add water, and then set out on their hike. They tell me that the rice does not need to be cooked. It only has to be in the water. It soaks up all the water and is ready to eat by dinnertime. Soaking something in water until it is puffed up wet is not considered desiccant in action or it is hygroscopic. I think that is more capiliary or osmosis in action. If you leave salt in open very humid air it can have such strong afinity to draw in moisture that it will eventually melt in a puddle of water it absorbs. I seem to think that salt’s hydroscopic ablity is much stronger that rice, therefore it may actually be keeping the rice dry, not the other way around. Nevertheless, the key question needs to be anwered is, where does rice keep all the water it draws in if it can continually keep the salt dry? dcarch The same place our granite counters store all the water they draws in from the drained dishes.

Yeah but you can never write off an ingredient until Mexican cooks have had a shot at it Tell me this doesn't look delicious? (Yes some of the cuts in their are Bofe / lung)

Just sayin': Ouch! Give me an old fashioned hair shirt any day! I saw them in Veracruz and I think the Yucatan where they would add dozens of little holes on a large thin tortilla-sized round of masa and then throw it on hot clay pots. They were delicious. Very cool... makes complete sense (soft tortillas spoil very quickly in the tropics)... but this is the first I've heard of them being used in Veracruz & Yucatan... which just goes to show you how unexplored Mexican cuisine really is... the Mexico City culinary literary is still busy swooning over Juchitan's culinary traditions... but there is great stuff everywhere in the southern third of the country... speaking of Amaranth.. Tlaxcala one of the few places where its Amaranth traditions were never broken is hardly explored (except by ethno botanist who have identified more than 100 endemic culinary & medicinal plants in that tiny state alone)

Pig Lung tacos are pretty common (and delicious) in Mexico City. If you can obtain or make corn tortillas & a decent tomatillo based salsa... you should give these a try. The easiest way to cook them is to put them in a slow cooker with water, salt, bay leaves, garlic, all spice berries, juice of two limes or lemons, rind & juice of 1 orange... cook them low & slow until tender... remove them from the pot, slice them into 1/2 palm size pieces, drain then sautee in butter until the exterior is nice & browned... finally chop them into bite size pieces.. put on some griddled corn tortillas, garnish with finely diced raw white onions, chopped cilantro & a tomatillo based salsa of your preference. Oh yeah enjoy with a nice hoppy beer that has some citrus notes.

For lunch today I warmed up the griddled Amaranth cakes in a 400F oven and they crisped into a sort of Amaranth totopo*... so I went with a tostada approach. I topped each "totopo" with a dollop of Fage 2% (which I consider to be an awesome, protein laden proxy for crema), as well as Sambal Olek (Vietnamese dried chile & vinegar sauce), and the leftover mushroom guisado... damn these were fantastic I will be experimenting alot with these... you can get pretty creative with toppings maybe some frijoles chinitos (crispy whole beans), caviar, escamoles, Oaxacan grass hoppers etc., * Totopo is often used as the common name for fried corn chips in Mexico however an authentic totopo is a corn tortilla that is baked in a comizcal (traditional cylindrical clay oven in the Tehuantepec region that is very similar to the Indian tandoor) http://www.folker-wagner-hett.de/Ortstermine/Niltepec/Totopo%20guero/totopoguero.htm

I believe it was Bernal Diaz del Castillo (one of Cortes' men who had a penchant as a chronicler) wrote that they mixed the puffed Amaranth with a syrup made of red tunas, then shaped them into the representation of Huitzilopotchli on his religious holidays... he didn't elaborate as to the context... but I imagine is that it was a more humane (or less expensive, or hierarchy enforcing) substitute for human sacrifice. It was probably just a select few in the royal, priest & political class that engaged in ritual cannibalization.. the masses got Amaranth instead. To the modern sensibility the commoners probably had the better deal. However, it is important to note that in Mesoamerican cosmology, the advantaged class had a duty to experience pain & sacrifice to be worthy of their positions... Mayan kings regularly pierced their own penises with a needle made of sea urchin spins as part of ritual bloodletting. The Christian / Western has always been vested in portraying human sacrifice in Mesoamerica as something the acts of blood thirsty, savages however it is probably more likely that they saw it as a very unpleasant sacrifice that the God-Kings & the priestly class had to engage in to save their people from the wrath of the Gods.

The big difference between then and now, I think, is that the accessibility of said culinary culture is not now limited to the very wealthiest of citizens, as it would have been then. Local, seasonal, etc was the norm at the time because there was no other way to have it. Hmmn... I think we underestimate the size of the middle class during the 1920's and their purchasing power as it related to food. Sure nowadays we might have more widgets and access to higher quality industrial foods... but the average person back than seems to have been eating quite well by today's standards. It is just that in the transitional post-modern period culinary standards, cooking know how, quality of average ingredients in the country just descended so far that as we emerge from the absolute bottom it is hard imagine there was a time that was so much better.

I don't know that I'd lump the word of the professional newspaper or magazine reviewer in with that of the yelper or twitee. Certainly, your experience or my experience at a particular restaurant may be better or worse than that of said reviewer; but I tend to trust the pro a bit more. Like anything else in life the Pros can be good, bad & average. Even when they might be competent, methodical & coherent it doesn't mean you are going to like their recommendations. Here in Sonoma County the main local critic is pretty clueless (in my opinion)... any "ethnic place" with dumbed down food, mainstream ingredient choices, has a wine list & petty bourgeoisie decor automatically ranks higher than a little mom & pop with fantastic food but humble decor etc., Further the guy never orders the interesting dishes on a menu he seems to have a fairly narrow palette... maybe the Cheesecake Factory crowd likes him... I don't At a bigger level... the Mark Bittman / New York Times coverage of Mexican Cuisine has been absolutely atrocious... the amount of stupid, unresearched, "absolutist" statements they make on every single article, particularly the ones where they travel to Mexico is unbelievable for such a reputable publication.

Tortitas de Huatli con Hongos a la Diabla (Amaranth Cakes with Mushrooms & Chipotle-Butter mole) Incidentally, I used Rancho Gordo amaranth grains... it was fantastic. First you cook the grain until its a porridge that tastes like buttered popcorn with hints of grilled corn husk. Then you blend with eggs & masa harina to make a pancake batter & fry over hot oil... absolutely delicous. Incidentally... I had the crepe pan running at the same time and also made them on the comal as an experiment... it took a will to get the correct size & cooking time down but huatli is delicious as a pancake as well... then I had a revelation... when the Spaniards like Bernardino de Sahugan & Bernal Diaz del Castillo were describing "Amaranth Tortillas", "Sour, Very Sour Tortillas", "Stinking Tortillas"... I have a hunch they were describing something like Injera made with Amaranth & corn masa... part of the revelation is due to the discovery that even though the amaranth grains are fully cooked into a porridge they have some kind of yeast that survives and you start getting the beginnings of sour dough within hours... it is absolutely remarkable. Further the Spanish definion of a tortilla.. includes any pancake thinner than a casserole. The flavor of the Amaranth pan cakes / crepes is very different than the fried cakes... will have them for lunch tomorrow. I should note... Chipotle was not the right flavor at all for this dish... Poblanos, Mushrooms & Huitlacoche are a sacred trilogy in Mexican cooking... I should have gone with something "green" tasting to combine with the nutty, buttery amaranth. Incidentally, I was catching up on my cable recordings today... I have 3 or 4 cooking / food series from Once Mexico (public tv by the Polytechnic University system) and 22 and they concidentally all had Amaranth on their shows. Chef Paulino Cruz of El Nuevo Rincon de los Sabores did Crab, Caper, Olive & Tomato stuffed Squash Blossoms that were battered with flour, egg & raw Amaranth The Spanish guy who does the Sabores de Mexico show did Canutillos (Canolis) made with Amaranth batter, stuffed with Nopal-Pineapple pudding I forget the name of the show but the chef befind Casa Oaxaca in Oaxaca City did some kind of chocolate ganache dessert lasagna (red cactus pear sauce) with alternating layers of puff pastry & puffed amaranth It is obvious the establishment in Mexico is moving aggressively to reclaim this ingredient that had been outlawed by the Spanish (due to its association with the Aztec war god Huitzilopotchli) and almost lost to history

We just spent 3 years living in Hawaii (Kailua on Oahu to be specific a please where almost all our furniture got moldy and got left behind)... Rice in Salt is no myth... without it you have clumps within 24 hours, with it... no clumps. If only there was a convenient way to keep clothes submerged in rice.

Incidentally my variation on a theme lunch for today... was leftover smoked pork chop bits tossed with leftover, room temp zucchini sancochado, seasoned with escabeche juice... some of the bean sauce from two days ago (btw the Oregano Indio is a really nice).. and tortillas to make tacos.

I must admit my exposure to ham steaks is limited to Farmer John, Hormel & the "even more budget than Farmer John" brands

In U.S. culture there is this ingrained belief that history is linear and that bygone eras must have been backward and everything modern is more advanced. However, with respect to culinary culture I have found ample evidence that the U.S. had a sophisticated culinary culture from the late 19th century through the roaring 20's. It was then decimated through the rapid sub-urbinazation, industrialization, standardization of the 1950's and beyond... people forgot how to cook, how to appreciate food & drink being easily dazzled by mirrors, glitter & food coloring... the gustatory culture is only catching up to where the country was 100 years ago... it is quite amusing to see people think that basic things (local, organic produce, real cooking etc.,) are so avant garde, the product of genius visionaries or exotic foreigners. Any way the important thing is that culinary culture is coming back to normalcy.

Well its a bit different... for starters it is much thinner than ham steaks I've had, also they are cut from the loin whereas ham steaks are typically from the leg (with a center bone), ham steaks have lots gristle these don't have any.. also ham steaks rarely have the smoked flavor and are uncooked... these are fully cooked so they just need to be browned.

Smoked Bone-In Pork Chops are a staple in Mexican butcher counters. I am surprised they aren't more mainstream in the U.S.... they just need to be browned, it is impossible to make them tough & chewy like fresh, lean pork chops are... and when you add a little bacon fat or quality lard to the pan they take on a fantastic bacon like flavor & texture but are actually much leaner. Their big drawback is that they tend to be extremely salty which is why in Mexico they are commonly finished in an unsalted Salsa Verde... or as is common in the highlands of Jalisco... the pan is deglazed with leftover Escabeche liquor & served with Vegetables en Escabeche, or as on this occassion you simply pan fry them & serve them with a mountain of Nopalitos & a little bit of refried beans & the whole thing balances out.

That is an appealing, simple meal with a nice variety of flavors. Would there typically be a starch like corn or flour tortillas to roll bits of the items in? Heidi that isn't even a question Corn based starch is assumed to be in the meal 99% of the time. (The other 1% of the time reserved for Wheat Flour, Oat, Barley, Amaranth or lettuce wraps in the case of modern dieters) This was my lunch yesterday as well.. I had corn tortillas (but they got moldy)... in addition to tortillas the meal could / would / has been served with tamales, gorditas, atole, bolillo or even rice.

Although I am a beef cheek, salmon sashimi, lamb barbacoa eating omnivore... I feel my best when I eat vegetarian every other day... and generally keep my animal flesh consumption lower... some people call this Flexitarianism. Whatever you want to label it, it is a good description of how people have been eating in Mexico for the last 8,000 years... my lunch today is typical of the meals my parents prepare, and also jives with the general tenor of Mexico's 8,000 year culinary history. Calabacitas (Zucchini) Sancochadas (Sweated over high heat to brown a bit) with a Rancho Gordo oregano indio scented Etmole (bean sauce), Avocado-Tomatillo-Serrano salsa & wedge of Queso Fresco (I admit it is the pedestrian Cacique brand)

Do serious Italian cooks use paste? As far as I know they just used the canned tomatoes. Of course in Mexican cooking both the Italian canned tomatoes & paste are frowned upon for any sauce (they got some use in broths) as you have noted they are already cooked to death... but I think in real Italian cooking the tomato is merely used as a base for more aggressive flavors like Italian Oregano, Fresh Garlic & Wine.. whereas in Mexico the tomato usually takes a more prominent role, the garlic is roasted... and overall a more subtle "fresh" flavor is desired over the more robust, sweet flavors of Italian sauces. I think if you are going with canned tomatoes & paste.. the searing & simmering is d'rigeur to temper the "raw" / concentrated off putting flavors... otherwise start with fresh tomatoes.

All the Mexican cooked sauces (Moles, Adobos, Chile Verde etc.,) are almost always seared in this way as well. In Pre-Hispanic cooking it was done without oil (and still the common technique among indigenous cooks)... adding paste to heated volcanic rock mortar & a steady stream of salted water to keep it from sticking too bad.

Hola, I don't know if buying from an online supplier is any guarantee that it is fresh either... I think that part is hard to control. In any case the achiote doesn't have a potent flavor / aroma itself.. it imparts a certain "freshness" & clay aroma... think drinking water or tequila out of a clay mug.. and of course you have other items in the paste like allspice & garlic. However, I should note the cuisine of the Yucatan is significantly more subtle than mainstream Mexican... spices & herbs are usually tempered etc., As for the banana leaves... if you can't find fresh, or the frozen have the bad aroma... I thinks it much better to go with hoja santa / fennel / fennel seed / anise seeds & corn husks or parchment paper. NOTE... the banana leaves, while now very traditional, are NOT the original flavoring used in Pib-il... it is believed that the original aromatic was Xtabentun flowers in Corn Husks and of course the original Pibil was Yucatan venison not pig.

And that would be my question. Did you wrap it in banana leaves? Then there are questions about the paste.... has it been on a shelf for 10 years? Fresh Achiote actually does have a very nice floral & earthy aroma.. of course it is nearly impossible to score some any where outside of the Yucatan, Oaxaca & Chiapas. The other thing is the Orange Juice perception... you are much better off going with Key Lime or even a mild tropical vinager than with Orange juice... you need the acid. Also key (if you are using lean supermarket pig) is to add some lard to the meat. Finally the garnishes are absolutely essential.. you have to have the sour orange / key lime macerated red onion & the thin habanero sauce... all the notes need to be present for the harmony to exist.