Dave the Cook

You can fit a lot of eating into a short time in Montreal. Ask Ivy Knight, whose recent exploits are recounted in "The Montreal Flesh Trade," in the Daily Gullet.

Sam turned me on to El Diablo. Tequila and cassis get along really well together. I'd also suggest that you start working with unaged, 100% agave spirits. It really does make a big difference. You might even find Margaritas more interesting.

I went through a phase where I used reposado a lot. But I've backed down to silver for almost everything. As with rum, the clean flavor of the base liquor turns out to me more appealing the more you work with cocktails. The problem is finding a good 100% blue agave that doesn't break your budget. Herradura is excellent, but really expensive compared to Sauza Commemorativo. One that I've found is El Grito. It's about 2/3rds the price of Herradura, and 100-proof, which is pretty unusual. I'm not sure I'd recommend it for sipping, but for mixing, it's pretty hard to beat in a cost/benefit calculation.

Yes, good choice. I'm not sure that my interest in cocktails could be traced to a single point, but if it could, one possibility would be my first CR2 -- made and served by none other than Sam Kinsey.

Who's going to make fun of you here? I myself made something very similar last night: Yukon golds, boiled, then smashed with a little milk and butter. I folded in blue cheese and chopped scallions, then spread them in a buttered gratin dish. A healthy sprinkling of parmesan over the top (which I sculpted roughly, so as to maximize crisping potential), then into the oven until it browned.

Despite the simplicity of barrel-smoker design, there are still variations in how each manufacturer implements certain features. Some brands (Char-Griller, for instance) hang the charcoal tray in the main chamber from stepped square brackets at each end of the tray. The brackets latch onto small hooks on the sides of the chamber. This arrangement has two purposes: you can raise and lower the tray for heat control; and you can remove the tray entirely for cleaning. As for the smoke box, the Char-Griller has a semi-cylindrical slide-out tray.

1.75 L bottles (of the common base spirits, anyway) are often used in gun dispenser systems. In that scenario, Sam's objections are mitigated: it's a high-volume situation, so oxidation isn't an issue; the system is sealed from vermin, and the bottles are out of sight.

Duck fat is pretty good, too.

I like a few lumps, unless I'm going after something in the Robuchon-style. Depending on what they're to accompany, I might use one of those wire things, a heavy fork, a food mill or (as MIL Pauline taught me) a stand mixer. I still don't own a ricer. What kind of potatoes do you use? Are russets (what some yanks call "Idahoes") easily available in Ireland -- if one isn't a close friend of Jack Lang, that is? The pendulum swings both ways: my children only know potato flakes as a potential coating for fried fish.

And were you pregnant? ← Not me! I'm of the generation that said "We're pregnant," but Thing One would have been two at the time, with the Girl still almost two years off. This is familiar ground. Mom loved flakes (remember Potato Buds?) or a styofoam tub from the Colonel, but she never mashed. She didn't hesitate to make dishes that were more difficult to make than mashed, like scalloped, though. I don't remember what the impetus was for me to finally take them on. I learned from my mother-in-law, so it might have been during prep for a Thanksgiving dinner when I was in haute chef mode. Odd that I didn't learn as a line cook, but this was the late 70s - early 80s, and they just weren't on many menus.

Hi. My name is Dave. I didn't know how to make mashed potatoes until I was 31 years old.

Does it look like this? Or like this?

To start, I'd offer them something not like a Cosmopolitan, but a Cosmopolitan itself, made with gin: 1.5 ounces gin 1.0 ounces triple sec 0.5 ounces lime juice 1 t cranberry juice Tell them it's the real version (it ought to be). But most people are going to like the Cosmo, because made this way, it's a decent drink. Now look at the recipe. Substitute bitters for the cranberry, and you've got a Pegu Club. Substitute tequila for the gin (well, bump it to two ounces), and you have a Margarita. Substitute rum for gin and simple syrup (down to 1/4 ounce) for the triple sec , and you've got a Daiquiri. Another (or parallel) tactic, for drinkers who don't want to stray from bourbon or Scotch, is to offer them a Fancy Free or a decent (probably for the first time in thier life) Whiskey Sour or Manhattan. Don't be afraid to use rye. No, never demonize the lowlife you've invited! Seriously. But I think some give-and-take has to be exercised. People you've invited for the evening should be receptive to the experience, including trying a new drink. On the other hand, you're obligated to their comfort. If they really aren't happy without a highball or a Bud Light, be a good host and give them one.

Jason has tendered his resignation from the Society and from its board. We'll be distributing the following press release:

It does sound unlikely -- in fact, I have to admit it sounded strange and unappealing when I first read the description. But it was intriguing, and I found myself mentally adding the components, mingling them in various ways, and now I'm convinced they could work. Yet another evening of experimentation awaits, I can tell. ← If you can make this work, my hat's off to you. And if you're serious, please let us know how it turned out. Thanks, Michael. It's not the situation I expected or wanted, but it's something that not many people get to experience. I'm learning to appreciate it.

Thanks, everyone, for your kind words. This piece took two years to write: two two-hour sessions, twenty-four months apart. If you liked it, thank Maggie, who tortured me into finishing convinced me to finish it. Mom doesn't believe in Mother's Day! Any thoughts that lack of indoctrination in this custom might have led to the breakup of my marriage would be off the mark, however. Whether she realizes it or not, she always gets a special dinner. This is a fertile insight, and may be the closest thing to a culinary litmus test that I'd ever consider using. I think eGullet Society members who are single should specify in their Match.com ads that they "cleave to the perimeter" of the supermarket. "Only respond if you really know what that means." ← I'll let you know how this works out. My dad, who didn't get much space in this piece (but likely will in subsequent columns), was partly responsible for the shopping-cart "K" of the Kroger logo (which is still in service). Even at six, I reveled in the subversiveness of shopping at Albers, their Cincinnati rival. My first lesson in irony happened when, seven years later, Dad got a job at Colonial Stores, who owned Albers. One of the first things he initiated was the systematic shutdown of the chain.The Jolly Green Giant is one thing. The real predator, I'm convinced, is Poppin' Fresh. How do you read while running?Early lessons die hard. I've toughened up a little, and I no longer reach into my pocket for each and every applicant, but somehow I still can't pass up someone who presents a frank plea for a smoke. And if someone asked for a good dinner, I'd probably invite them home.

Orange-glazed chicken with cumin and mint Serves 4 as Main Dish. This recipe accompanies the Daily Gullet article Old Enough. 1 3-1/2 to 4-pound chicken, spatchcocked and brined 1 T whole cumin 1 tsp whole white pepper 3/4 tsp whole coriander 4 tsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced, then lightly knife-pureed with 1/4 t kosher salt 1 oz mint, leaves plucked and minced, stems discarded 2 tsp grated orange zest 2 T orange juice concentrate 3/4 tsp whole-grain mustard 1 T vegetable oil 1. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator. Loosen the skin at the breast and thigh. 2. Toast the cumin, pepper and coriander in a small skillet. Reserve half the cumin and grind the rest. 3. Put the olive oil in a small cold skillet, and add the garlic. Turn the heat to medium. 4. When the garlic begins to sizzle, add the spices and mint. Stir to combine, then remove from heat and let cool. Stir in the orange zest. You should have a little more than 4 T. 5. Light a full large chimney of briquettes (about 80), and let the fire reach a usable state while performing the next steps. 6. When the mint-spice mixture is cool, divide it into four parts, two of them slightly larger than the other two. Slip the mixture under the skin at the breast and thigh (use the larger portions for the leg-thigh joint), pushing some of it around under the leg skin. Massage to even out the distribution. 7. In a small bowl, combine the orange juice concentrate, mustard and reserved whole cumin. 8. When the coals are ready, spread them in two banks at the sides of the grill, leaving a chicken-width's worth of space between them. Set a drip pan between the coal banks, put the food grate on and close the grill for five minutes. 9. Fold up a paper towel and soak it with the vegetable oil. 10. If the food grate isn't clean, scrape it. Rub the grate with the oil-soaked towel. 11. Place the chicken on the grate over the drip pan. Close the grill and let the chicken roast for 15 minutes. 12. Flip the chicken, close and cook for another 15 minutes. 13. Flip again, and rotate, if it seems that one part of the chicken is cooking faster than another. Close for another 15 minutes. 14. Flip the chicken one more time, and check the temperature at the thigh. It should be about 165F. If it's not, close the lid again and continue to roast until you get there. 15. Brush the orange mixture over the skin, close the lid for a final ten minutes, or until the glaze thickens visibly. 16. Remove the chicken from the grill and let sit for five to ten minutes. Carve and serve. Keywords: Main Dish, Intermediate, Chicken, Dinner, Mediterranean ( RG1783 )

It is in the drawer. This is an economy move: since the burner that heats the oven is beneath the oven cavity, the manufacturer just leaves the space beneath the burner open and gives you access through the drawer. I don't of of anyone (except manufacturers, of course) who think this is a great idea.

I'm with Kent. LED arrays are cool (temperature-wise, I mean), lightweight, and don't require a lot of power. (This is sort of what I have in mind, though this specific module wouldn't be appropriate.) You might be able to adapt lights made for model train sets: something from here, maybe.

Since adopting the Shaw Method (disclosure: I've had the pleasure of seeing it in action first-hand a few times, so my mileage might be different than others'), my dining experience has improved immeasurably. I can attest that beoming a "regular" is not nearly as difficult as it seems, and that that relationship can make each experience much more enjoyable. An example: at a place that I've visited just a few times, I was recently served a complimentary dish. The food was excellent and special, but what really stood out was how it was served: on a platter lined with print-outs of my eG Forums posts! Flattery aside, it seemed to me that this was a stunning illustration of one of Steven's essential points -- that a restaurant appreciates good customers as much as customers appreciate good food and service. Anyway, enough testimonial, because I have an actual question. In one part of your class, Steven, you suggest asking the staff what they recommend: A little later, you describe the practice of upselling: These two practices create a quandary. In my experience, especially in less than top-tier restaurants, upselling (or whatever you'd call it) is often used to move items that are getting old, or are overstocked. Most likely as a result of the day's staff meeting, waitstaff are told to "push the snapper," or urged to sell the special -- "special" being defined as "something we need to get rid of in a hurry." How can you tell when this is happening? In other words, how can you ensure that a server will tell you what's really good, as opposed to what he's been told to tell you is really good?

Good catch, pupkinpie2. For best flavor, use grade B (in the US; #3 in Canada) pure maple syrup.

What do you mean, "maybe"? Okay, I'm convinced about the lime juice. But we're not getting any closer to consensus on ratios. John is at 5:2:1, and BigboyDan is between 9:3:1 and 15:3:1. I feel like I'm handicapping horse races. Any other jockeys out there?

Another way to do it might be: 1/2 t vanilla extract 2 t unsalted butter 1/3 C maple syrup 1 C confectioners' sugar Combine the first three ingredients over medium heat until the butter is melted and combined. Whisk in the sugar.

Inspired by this topic on applejack, especially the recent posts relating the availability of Laird's bonded in New York City, I've revived my interest in the Jack Rose. Here's the post that made it happen: Using Laird's blended product, I found the Jack Rose underwhelming, and went on to use applejack in other things, where I like it very much. Frankly, dipping into the single bottle of Laird's bonded I have wasn't a worthy expenditure for these drinks; it's too damn rich and apple-y to balance.I'm happy to sip it away, but given the testimony on the applejack topic, it seems to me that the Jack Rose is worth pursuing. Here's the problem: I have only 2-1/2 ounces -- just one shot (so to speak) at a great Jack Rose. Oh, wait. There's another problem: the recipe. If I've only got one chance, I want the odds in my favor, so I did some research. Gary Regan says: 2.5 oz applejack 0.75 oz lemon juice grenadine to taste (Gary, can I just say that I hate "to taste"? Give me a starting point, at least.) Paul Harrington suggests: 2.0 oz applejack 1.0 oz lime juice 0.5 oz grenadine Cocktail DB: 1.5 oz applejack 0.5 oz lemon or lime juice (as a realtive newbie, I'm not gruntled by this uncertainty, either) 0.5 oz grenadine DrinkBoy (essentially the same as Cocktail DB): 1.5 oz applejack 0.5 oz lime juice 0.5 oz grenadine So we've got ratios of: 3.3 : 1 : ? 4 : 2 : 1 3: 1 : 1 And then there's the lemon vs. lime thing. So -- who wants to risk the very last of my store of Laird's bonded on their best shot at a recipe? Need I mention -- in case I haven't made the stakes clear -- that I had to go way out of state to find this stuff, and I don't know when I'll have an opportunity to acquire more?

Thanks for the heads-up, Rancho! Members can send congratulatory PMs and emails directly to JJ. We'd be happy to host a discussion of the article itself in General Food Topics. (For information on how to list a topic in Member News, see Welcome to the Member News forum!)