trillium

Sam's in Chicago has the 16 year old for $40/bottle. regards, trillium

For an alternative view, I spent 8 years in Chicago trying to find pizza like I was used to eating in SF (the 4 college standards were Escape from New York, Celeste, Papa d' Oros and Pauline's for a splurge). I hate "Chicago-style" deep dish pizza (the big three are Gino's, Geordano's and Malnati's), and most of the thin crust stuff I tried in Chicago sucked, except for Pizzeria D.O.C. And they usually cut the thin stuff wrong...in squares. That sucked too. There's plenty of crappy pizza everywhere... regards, trillium

Malay Satay House drives the Singaporean in the house crazy. He thinks it is dumbed down, I insist it could be due to regional differences, he counters with talk about lack of longtong when they had satay, lack bits of pork fat in the fried noodle dishes (and the fact that they don't use lard to fry them), the idea that a "real" asian restaurant would be serving pork chops and the roti canai tastes wrong. Sigh. When I'm visiting my mum, we sneak off and eat there by ourselves. regards, trillium

Real eggs are fantastic. When I made ice cream this weekend I had 8 egg whites left and we mixed them with 4 whole eggs to make a Chinese omlette with gau choy (garlic chives). The resultant omlette was the same color as if you had used 12 store bought eggs with yolks. The yolks from real eggs are so orange and flavorful... The Blue Egg lady also sells duck eggs earlier in the spring when they lay. Super yum. We were sad when the ducks stopped laying, but we have eight in a salt/tea solution for Chinese cooking, so we're not totally lacking. regards, trillium

trillium's dark side emerges at last. Jim Hey, when you're fantasizing about being the supreme dictator of the universe it usually doesn't involve being Really Nice. At least in not in my fantasies.... On croissants, I didn't think Ken's lived up to my favorite (Tassajarra Bakery, SF, circa 1992) but I thought maybe it was just that the memory had acquired an unrealistic nostalgic luster. Too much yeast and softness, not enough flaky-ness. But not Safeway's at least... regards, trillium

Yikes, no strollers? What's next? No wheelchairs? No walkers? We've been to the market with our small kids virtually every weekend for the past four years. We have a great time, buying produce, listening to the music, meeting the vendors. It is almost the only place where a person can teach their children where food comes from without buying a cow. Markets are, and always have been community, family gathering places. They're not bars, afterall. I would recommend going early. Because I don't like inconsiderate parents that think it's ok to push doublewide strollers and just hang out in the path, blocking up an already crowded pathway, I should go to a bar instead? Next you're going to tell me it's an important learning and community experience for the family dog, right? I've got nothing against people bringing their offspring to the market, I'm all for it. My mum took me and my little brother every where she went when I was a kid. I'm against self-centered, bad drivers of big strollers not children. I'm against people being rude and assuming they and their children are the center universe and everyone should give way to them. They and thier SUV stroller ilk suck. And I hold they aren't in the same catagory as someone who needs a wheelchair or walker to get around. Aren't you glad I'm not the supreme dictator? And I do go early. I'm usually there at 8:30 and out by 9:30. I'd go even earlier but the vendors aren't allowed to sell until 8:30. It was better for us bar hopping, kid-eating, anti-community and family types when it opened at 7:30. trillium

One thing I've found that helps to avoid butter bits in cooked ice cream bases is to take the custard off the heat right when you start wondering if it's getting there. Do not wait until it's obviously thick, just to the point where it starts to act differently. Then cool it down quickly in a water/ice bath. When I manage this I never have buttery coating problems. When I don't manage this, I do. regards, trillium

Errrr...wow...care to elaborate? Or do I not want to know? regards, trillium

Guilty as charged. Hey, you're totally blowing my cover...everyone always thinks Quentin is nice online and off, but I've been told via email that I'm actually Really Mean, online at least. Did they still have the Puget Summer berries when you got there? They were the ripest, but I think I bought half of what they had...they made fantastic jam. When you talk to him, whatever you do, don't pronounce his bakery name (Ken's Artisan Bakery) as Artisian (the well), trust me on this one. His bread is so great for many reasons, here's a couple... one, he's an obsessed bread geek and tries really hard to react to changes in environment and supply when he does his thing, and two, he has a really fancy oven that the likes of Thomas Keller are jealous of. Pearl does a different sort of bread, softer crust, less flavor to me. The french couple we're friends with actually like that bread better. No accounting for taste. I think calling it sourdough brings to mind SF style stuff, which it isn't really. What did you think about his croissants? How do they compare to the great Seattle croissant ccompare and contrast? regards, trillium

sour and sweet... regards, trillium

Isn't it funny how that combination of flavors puts a huge sensory memory in your mind if you've never been exposed to them growing up? I still remember the first heady whiff of basil, galanga, fish sauce, garlic and cilantro, and the flavor explosion that happened on my tongue with my first bite. Some of that wonder stays with me every time I'm working with the same ingredients, 15 years later. Now I grow 3 different basils, 3 different chillies, hoard good galanga and kaffir limes and leaves in the freezer. It's hard to beat what you can cook at home here in the US. I have the same feeling about Wild Ginger, but I've only eaten there once. But it is widely regarded as fusion, right? It's not claiming to be true Thai. The best Laotian food I've had in the US was actually in Madison, WI. There is good Thai to be had in Chicago, but they're little holes in the wall and don't always stay in business. We had a favorite that did a great job (hot enough, green peppercorns in all the right places, red chillies not red bell peppers etc) but it went under right before we left. They had plans to open some place else. Another place I really liked lost it's chef and went downhill from there. Here's what Raelena says in rec.food.cooking about Thai Tom in Seattle "Thai Tom in the University District -- food like you'd get at the stalls in Bangkok (for nearly the same price)... where the cook dances with a pony tail amidst blackened woks, leaping flames, and a line out the door most nights." Sounds promising, no? regards, trillium

In the summer we do all of our grocery shopping at the farmer's market except dairy. When I'm the supreme dictator there will be no kettle corn at the market (nor people standing in the way staring vacantly into space while eating it) no doublewide baby strollers + the family dog groups, no dogs at all actually and I'd be tempted to outlaw strollers too but there might be a revolt, a limit of 3 booths that are selling hot food to eat on the premises only (I hate trying to get past the people in line for pizza and sausage and I hate standing there waiting to get through and breathing sausage smoke...), no nationwide chains and no greenhouse or hydroponic produce (they taste like shit). Foraged and artisan aggie stuff from other countries would be allowed as long as the person selling it was local and the original producers were small. I fall into the "it's there so I can buy my produce" camp and not the "it's a lovely form of entertainment on the weekend" camp. The people there to just eat and gawk really get in the way. regards, trillium

I've bought Fee Bros. orange and old fashioned bitters at Corti Brothers in Sacramento (5810 Folsom Blvd, (916) 736-3800) and at De Laurenti's in Seattle (1435 1st Ave, (206) 622-0141). I love using the orange bitters in anything I use Seville orange juice in, including what my mum calls a Delores, which is basically a Delilah made with sour orange juice instead of lemon. regards, trillium

I like the Casablanca blend from Mariage Frères on ice and a blend I make myself from a decent (but not too pricey) green like dragonwell or a lightly fermented pouchong and lemon verbana. Another nice one is a blend of Ceylon from Uva and a cheapie Darjeeling. Small amounts of sugar stirred in while they're hot (probably 1 tsp for a 6 c teapot) then poured over fresh ice. regards, trillium

I use a matte enamel Le Creuset pan and never have a problem with sticking. I heat the pan until I see little wisps of smoke rising, add the cooking fat of choice and then put the fish in. The matte enamel finish acts a lot like cast iron, but is less reactive and it doesn't turn tomatoes funny tasting. Not to be a trouble maker or anything, but the Le Creuset factory stores are having their bi-annual sale right now... regards, trillium

You need to go to Joseph Food Mart...way out on Irving Park Rd. I moan the loss of access to that store nearly every week here in Portland. They carry a wide range of Pellagrino beverages, plus other brands from Italy that you don't see so often. It's my secret shame that I sometimes crave those sweet/salty carbonated coffees that come in the same little glass bottles (cans are not the same!). Joseph was the only place I found them. And they're the best Italian food mart in Chicagoland. Alternatively, you could order the lemon syrup from AG Ferrari. I actually like it better then the limonata when it's mixed with pelligrino water. regards, trillium

It tastes like orange bitters. Amer Picon is the alcoholic version. You can't buy it in the US anymore, it lost it's US distributor. Torani Amer is said to be a really good substitute. regards, trillium

Because the guberment is in charge of what alcohol is allowed here.... regards, trillium

You are kidding, right? I might add that it's not the only thing he's opinionated about. There are a lot of usenet vets about the place.... regards, trillium Kidding about what? I specifically said, "Don't know who the guy is, don't even know if he knows what he's talking about", thus leaving it up to whoever clicks the link to decide if he was worth listening to. I merely filtered the search on his name because just about any discussion of length concerning Sitram includes him as a participant. As all links on that page lead to a discussion, it's just as easily to read the replies of those who disagree with him and choose your side, or choose no side at all. I was teasing Mr. Kinsey... about the "Don't know who the guy is, don't even know if he knows what he's talking about" part. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I just thought it was funny. I thought maybe you were teasing him too. regards, trillium

You gotta admit that whole cult leader thing was a bit, well, ripe (ha ha). Anyway, I think the tone of the article actually works against the food that's being written about. It's better then that. But I'm biased, I react badly to hype. regards, trillium

You are kidding, right? I might add that it's not the only thing he's opinionated about. There are a lot of usenet vets about the place.... regards, trillium

Sure there is. We have a hand-cranked Salton burr grinder we got for free from a guy that got too old and wussy to hand grind and bought a Rocky. It's more then adequate, but you have to work for your coffee. He misses it, but doesn't miss the hand cranking. And it goes just perfectly era-wise with our Olympia Cremina, which is a fantastic machine, you just can't buy them anymore. regards, trillium

Hey, when it comes to pig fat you can't be too embarassed! It's pig fat after all! Oregon truffles are really good, but they taste very different then Italian ones. I actually bought them by mail while I was in Chicago, but I didn't realize you could actually get truffle enui, which is how we ended up with too many truffles (4 oz is a lot of truffles). Here you can buy them in the nicer grocery stores while in season. I think I like the white ones better then the black, the white were more pungent and less fruity tasting to me, but they were both pretty powerful. You can check out www.oregonwhitetruffles.com I think the prices should have come down from what was listed, we got a lot of rain this spring, but you can always email Dan Wheeler for an updated price list. The mushrooms are fantastic. Chanterelles in the fall go for really cheap (relatively) depending on the harvest. Right now it's morel season and they're very abundant from all the fires last year. Around $18/lb and really nice. regards, trillium

I thought it might be fun to find out where people have had proper cocktails...you know, no limp wristed shaking, fresh juice, decent vermouths, not called a martini just because it comes in a cocktail glass, not too many sex on a rooftop type drinks etc... These days, I prefer to make mine at home, but when you travel that's not usually an option, which is why it might be nice to know where one could go for a sip or two of something icy. I'll start. Chicago Mia Francesca (Clark St location) -- really good Negronis, they use Punt e Mes vermouth Delilah's -- $2 Maker's Mark Manhattans on Fridays rock, and they're the right size (not too big). For that price I forgive the not so great vermouth. erwin's -- very enjoyable martinis, with yuppie olive versions the only minus is that they are too large. Gingerman -- the best thing about this bar is that the bartenders will try to make you the drink you want, even if they aren't familiar with it, plus their top shelf bourbon pours are on the very generous side. We usually avoided them on weekend nights like the plague. That's when the scourge of Wriglyville comes out...lots of drunken frat boys. The Long Room-- good Manhattans and they use a brandy soaked cherry instead of the maraschino ones.. yum San Francisco Most of the places we used to go to died (Jack's in the TL, RIP) since we've moved but there are few left Bueana Vista -- the so called birthplace of Irish coffees in the US. The tourists are annoying but the drink is damn fine on a foggy afternoon. Latin America Club -- they gave me my education on what a great martini tastes like... the last time I was there (about 4 years ago) it was dreadfully overrun by the young and dot.com salaried set but I imagine if they're still there things will have mellowed out. Wishing Well --This is a dive bar (seriously...don't order anything wussy like amaretto, it will pour out of the right looking bottle but be fake) but they make some of the best Picon Punches I've ever had the pleasure of drinking. Now it's your turn. regards, trillium

Hang on a sec. Not right to you maybe. There is a ton of interpertation that gets done on even classics from region to region. The ethnic Chinese person at my house happens to not like the Wei-Chuan books because he says food made from them is too "Taiwanese" for his taste. But he admits that it's his tastes, with his regional biases. When his unit did some training in Taiwan, he hated the rice because "it smelled funny". There are huge differences in taste between people from a country that huge and with a diaspora that big. I once made some classic Cantonese-style choy yuk bao that a Taiwanese guy couldn't eat because he thought they weren't "authentic" ...I learned how to make 'em from my friend's Cantonese speaking no English granny. One person's authentic might be drastically different from another person's. That's regional variation for you. regards, trillium