Vanessa

But remember that US heavy cream is quite a lot less heavy than UK double cream v

I have the Lutece book, although I have never cooked from it - one day.... I've dug it out from the shelves and had a good look. It is one of those lovely, solid Alfred Knopf books, published in 1995, the likes of which don't get produced any more. The food is very much classic French cuisine - I fancy a gussied up version of the kind of food I associate with Wilfrid - with an Alsatian influence as that is where Soltner came from, together with signs of having lived in America for many years. I think it is a lovely book. OK, it isn't the kind of lifestyle production you get from Artisan these days (Keller, Ripert et al) but I think all the better for it. There is plenty of introduction giving you a good background to his career and outlook and most recipes have an introductory paragraph. An honest, serious book with a whole chapter on charcuterie, one on Alsatian dishes and, without having cooked them, the recipes look well written and practical for the home cook. Only a few photos of the chef throughout his life but some attractive pen and ink drawings to brighten the text. v

more on cocktails: One of the annoying things for us in the UK is that measurements in recipes are nearly always in fluid ounces, while it is illegal for spirit measures to be sold in shops in anything other than metric. So you either have to be creative or work out the proportions of each recipe. Some books do give recipes by proportion rather than quantity. A couple of years ago a US cocktail gear company (Copco?) managed briefly to slip some ounce measures onto the UK market and I snapped them up when I saw them. Otherwise it is good to bear in mind that a tablespoon measure is 1/2 fl oz. I also have a baby 1/8 cup (1fl oz) measure that I bought some years ago in the Albert Kuyp market in Amsterdam. Never seen the like since. Base spirits: no point in using the best cognac and single malts or whatever. I use supermarket own brands. However, for gin I make sure to buy the 40% 'London' gin rather than the basic 37.5%. I find it makes quite a difference. Also, when it comes to French brandy, it is a good idea to check the alcohol level of what you are buying. Anything below 40% is really inferior. At the same time, the supermarket brand (Waitrose is a good example) is sometimes better quality (in my view) than the cheapest 'French' brand. For white rum, try to keep to Bacardi (and try to buy it in Spain where it costs almost nothing!) - own/cheapo brands can be dire and for none white rums, i.e. the whole gamut from gold to molasses dark, I would suggest trying out and finding what suits your own taste. I like Captain Morgan's dark stuff in my cocktails, but I can well imagine that many would find the taste too coarse and strong. v

Stephen - apologies for the delay in response. The first drink with Chartreuse (green) that comes to mind, although I don't personally like it very much, is hot chocolate with Chartreuse - 1fl oz or a bit less in each mug. Madelein Kamman in her lovely book 'Madeleine Kamman's Savoie' has several pages on the liqueur and the hot chocolate is a favourite of her family - they call it 'le chocolat des skieurs'. As for cocktails - green Chartreuse does have a very specific, herbal flavour with a high level of alchol. You have to be in the mood for it: - 1fl oz each of kirsch, green Chartreuse & Cointreau + dash of Maraschino. Shaken and strained into martini glass - 2fl oz gin, 1fl oz sweet vermouth, 1tsp green Chartreuse + dash orange bitters. Shaken and strained into martini glass - 11/2fl oz gin, 1fl oz dry vermouth (Noilly Prat), 1/2fl oz green Chartreuse + dash orange bitters. Stirred and strained into martini glass - 2fl oz gin, 1fl oz green Chartreuse + dash green creme de menthe. Shaken and strained into a martini glass - 2fl oz Irish whiskey + dash green creme de menthe + dash green Chartreuse. Stirred and strained into a martini glass. Garnish with green olive - 1fl oz each gin, green Chartreuse and sweet vermouth. Stirred and strained into a martini glass - 11/4fl oz bourbon, 11/4fl oz green Chartreuse, 1/4fl oz dry vermouth. Stirred and strained into a martini glass - 1fl oz brandy, 1fl oz Dubonnet, 1/2fl oz gin, 1/2 fl oz green Chartreuse. Shaken and strained into a martini glass - 2fl oz bourbon, 1fl oz sweet vermouth, 1fl oz orange juice + dash green Chartreuse. Shaken and strained into a martini glass - 11/4fl oz green Chartreuse, 1fl oz vodka, 3/4fl oz grapefruit juice, 1/4fl oz cherry brandy. Shaken and strained into a martini glass (N.B. although I've made this one, I can't remember, or even imagine now, how it might taste ) - 11/2fl oz Scotch, 1/2fl oz green Chartreuse. Shaken and strained into a shot glass - 1fl oz each brandy and green Chartreuse. Layer into a liqueur glass - 1fl oz gin + 1 dash each green Chartreuse and Angostura Bitters. Stirred and strained into liqueur glass Pousse cafes often use Chartreuse - they are those drinks in layers in little liqueur glasses. But they generally look great and taste foul. As you can see, this is not a liqueur associated with cocktails involving fruit juices, with the odd exception, nor fizzy mixers, but more suited to the traditional, old-fashioned style cocktail. I also have an idea that a spoonful poured over some very good quality ice cream (vanilla) might be nice. I remember last year making a blueberry icecream served with eau-de-vie de mirabelle poured over. Fantastic. v

I have been aware for some time of a silent nagging on this subject from Kikujiro. So, this is what I have to say. Please note that I do not consider my opinions definitive, nor (with all due respect to everyone) am I interested in the ‘perfect martini’ type of pissing contest. I got into cocktails about 9 years ago, due to a good friend who introduced me to the idea, and then the taste epiphany (which I had totally forgotten until a week or two ago, when I came across the same recipe): I made a drink called ‘Prince Charlie’ from Marian McNeill’s ‘The Scots Cellar’ (I’m sure The Balic can enlighten everyone further on Marian McNeill – the great chronicler of Scottish food and drink). This is equal quantities of Drambuie, brandy and lemon juice and the taste was so amazing that I have made myself a cocktail more or less every day since. I have a crap memory and a very low boredom threshhold. This means that I make cocktails from books, a different cocktail (or two) every day. I like most, depending on my mood, with the exception of anything resembling a Bloody Mary. i.e. I hate tomato juice or other vegetable juices. Over a period of time I have developed certain ways of doing things, as follows: Ice: I use still mineral water, having noticed how much cleaner the ice trays are (compared with using London tap water) and how much easier it is to get the ice out of the tray. With regard to quantity of ice used, I use 4 cubes for a cocktail in the shaker, and 2 cubes for one that is just stirred. Re-stirred (as opposed to shaken cocktails): when I started out I acquired one of those sophisticated strainers with a spring underneath. But then I realised I was never going to keep my glasses in the freezer, and if you strained a stirred cocktail into another glass it was never going to be cold. So, for a cocktail that is not shaken, I simply use 2 ice cubes and make the thing in the glass I drink from. The strainer with the spring (has a special name I know) has long been thrown out. Re-shaking: I am a firm believer in the fact that shaking means shaking, not just a vague waving in the air that one sees in some bars. I like my ice cubes to be substantial because the larger the cube the colder the drink and the less dilute when it is strained out. The same friend of mine that introduced me to cocktails likes her ice to be all itty bitty – she hasn’t cottoned on to the fact that this just makes a warm, dilute drink. So, if the ice in substantial cubes, then when I shake the shaker gets frosted on the outside. The point of shaking is to chill the drink, but also to introduce microscopic air bubbles throughout, which have an effect upon the drinking sensation (you can see it in the cloudiness of the drink, which then settles to be clear) – not quite like a fizzy drink, but something related. If the drink is insufficiently shaken, then you don’t get that spread of oxygen throughout the drink and it comes out ‘flat’. Crushed ice: I try to avoid this. In the days before I acquired a nice Magimix (Cuisinart for you Americans) food processor, I used to have a Kenwood processor with a Parmesan shaver blade that made the most wonderful shaved ice. The Magimix doesn’t have that capability and if you use the normal blade it makes OK, but not great crushed ice – I’m not fond of ice lumps. I don’t have the space nor the inclination to acquire an ice-crushing machine. So these days I try to without. In fact I’m not crazy about cocktails made in the blender for exactly the same reason, you always end up with little lumps of ice in your mouth. Base spirits: I tend to use supermarket own brands, for economic reasons as much as anything, except that I use 40% ‘London Gin’ rather than the basic 37.5% as I find it makes quite a difference. When it comes to brandy, I also try to use the 40% version. If you are a Londoner, Gerry’s in Old Compton St in Soho is a vital source for the more obscure liqueurs etc, and also for reasonable prices. For example they are far and away the cheapest source of Chartreuse. Then, of course, it is important to make good use of all family and friends that are passing through Europe, especially Spain, France and Portugal. Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason are also not bad, but considerably more expensive than Gerry’s. Cocktail books I have appreciated: The Bartender’s Bible – Gary Regan, The New American Bartender’s Guide – John Poister and, my current ‘bible’: World Encyclopedia of Cocktails – Paul Martin. That’s it for now. v

An exceptional beetroot soup. I made a stock with a large handful of dried mushrooms, a carrot, an unpeeled onion cut in half, a stick of celery, parsley & bay. I baked 2 beetroots in the oven. I strained the veg out of the stock, returned the chopped up mushrooms, added the beetroots julienned, added perhaps 1/3 cup Polish beetroot concentrate from a bottle (the preservative-free kind that lives in the fridge), heated, then a cup of Neal's Yard creme fraiche mixed with a dessertspoon of flour. Brought to a simmer and then eaten. The depth of flavour and colour were quite remarkable. Fortunately I have plenty left over to enjoy further. v

Definitely in the fridge. And they certainly have a finite shelf life, although it is months. Probably the date on the packet is about right, but you will notice that, after a certain time, when you get them out of the fridge they appear particularly dried up, desiccated and miserable. Time to chuck out and buy some more. On the cooking thing, I don't really know. v

A point of view I have seen expressed in Italy, which goes towards explaining the Italian preference for cooking with EVOO, is that most other oils are obtained through a chemical extraction process and this is seen as a very bad thing. v

Am I seeing double? Wasn't this part of another thread? My experience of New York is similar to my experience of sushi v

Craig - welcome v

With all due respect to restaurants, and with a very few exceptions (e.g., Blue Hill in NY, Fook Lam Moon in HK), I'd have to say that, for me, restaurants outside of Europe are indeed not as good. Not that restaurants outside of Europe do not offer food that should be taken seriously, though. (I don't see my subjective viewpoint as being elitist, and I don't believe others necessarily share that viewpoint.) (If Vanessa's reference was to produce from beyond the boundaries of Europe, I would say that food products are slowly getting bettter in those regions.) Cabrales - Although you have a preference for French cuisine, I'm sure that wouldn't prevent you from sampling other cuisines and I'm sure you wouldn't look down on people who might choose to eat Chinese/Indian/Turkish/Mexican or whatever on a given occasion. That's what I mean. v

Whether it is elitist or not depends upon your point of view. Certainly an interest in food is a minority, although growing, interest in the UK. And probably is seen as 'elitist' by those who do not share that interest. That is simply a British characteristic - a kind of inverse snobbery. Amongst those who see themselves as interested in food, I would consider some to be elitist - for example those who cannot countenance the fact that food from beyond the boundaries of Europe can be taken seriously. But I see that as a cultural thing, not a food thing. v

How kind of you Magnolia, thank you. That e-mail goes to my home, so I won't get it till this evening. However, if you were to pm me, I would send you my e-mail address here. This is also a way of testing the pm-system, as I've a funny feeling it doesn't work properly to me here. v

Marcolini UK website Dear Magnolia, if you are going to plug your article, you could at least give us a hint as to where to find it! v

I have walked past Sushi-Hiro a number of times (it's my end of town), but always put off by the sex shop style blanked out windows. I guess I'll have to overcome my inhibitions.... By the way, if you turn right out of Ealing Common station and walk 5 minutes or so, past the Tesco garage thing, there is a very nice Arab supermarket on the right hand side. v

I've only ever had it from the supermarket Not a great experience. So, please, advice on where & how to begin on the real stuff. And, has anyone ever been to that Japanese place (modest, unthreatening looking) on the Upper Richmond Road in Putney. v

Kiku - I think Yan-Kit So covered the deep-frying in oil before stir-frying thing in her book. When it comes to woks, I am a fundamentalist. If you need a flat-bottomed one then why bother? Also, the bigger the better. I think it important to have one with a single long handle so you can grip the thing comfortably while working with the scoop in the other hand, rather than the double handled type. And an important point about wok rings. In my old kitchen I had to use one. There are two basic kinds: the solid metal one with holes and the type that is more like a strong wire frame. AVOID the first one at all costs. As mentioned above, the heat comes out of the holes, also it doesn't always allow enough air in to the gas flame and can cause it to extinguish. That has happened to me. I got a new kitchen about 8-9 years ago and the stove has one burner much stronger than the others - for woks or boiling water. Although it may be nothing compared with a professional kitchen, I do find it very helpful. Now I can stand the wok directly on the burner - the balance isn't great but better when there is something in the wok, even for deep-frying, and I am well used to it now. Also there is the question of being afraid of cooking on the highest flame. DON'T BE AFRAID As for all that worrying about cutting meat right - Yan-Kit illustrates it beautifully. But I think you are being a perfectionist. v

Mustard powder has certain wasabe-like characteristics. It sometimes gets used as a seasoning - e.g. added to seasoned flour for coating. v

Kiku - I found Yan-Kit So's book on Chinese cooking published by Dorling Kindersley (and almost always in print) very useful years ago. I gather from your post that you have a gas cooker, so that's a major hurdle already overcome. The next is to establish a relationship with your wok P.S. you haven't heard the last of me on the diary thread yet... but I've got to learn how to transfer pictures from my new digital camera and upload them first. Sorry I didn't see you at Borough. v

Simon - are you saying that there is no such thing as a proper Bengali restaurant in the UK? You and Suvir have suddenly awoken an old memory I have of being invited to a flat over Kensington High St where the hosts were a Bangladeshi widower and his children some 14 years ago. I think he worked at the Bangladeshi embassy. We were served a wonderful selection of fish dishes unlike anything I have had before or since - all prepared by himself and his children. v

I had excellent experience with the cheese board there before, which is why I went for it especially, and was completely flummoxed with what I got. I find it difficult to complain on the spot unless there is a clear case of something being (e.g.) uncooked, or not what I ordered. But at least I get the pleasure of complaining vociferously here . v

Just the kind of informed reply I was seeking. Have a wonderful time in Chianti and bring back lots of salume. I think I have a couple of other d'Arenburg wines lurking - a chardonnay and a red - can't remember what grape variety. v

Last Monday evening dinner @ La Trompette Overall, somewhat disappointing with a few high notes. I have eaten better there. I like the decor - the shades of brown and the textures which make walking into the place a pleasing experience. However the acoustics are not equipped for the loud, confident Chiswickian clientele. Menu Cream of butternut squash soup Thinly sliced Angus beef with rocket, baby leeks & truffle oil Baby spinach & Cashel blue salad with walnuts & spiced pears Brochettes of duck hearts with chips cooked in duck fat and béarnaise sauce Foie gras terrine with Pineau des Charentes jelly & toasted brioche (supp. £5) Grilled red mullet with chorizo, fennel fondue & sardine vinaigrette Confit of salmon with lardons, savoy cabbage, lentils & red wine Deep fried sole fillet with tartare sauce Duck magret with parsnips, griottine cherries & port sauce Soupe paysanne with foie gras, duck confit, white beans & pistou Seven hour cooked shoulder of lamb with chick peas & salsa verde Free range chicken breast with wild mushrooms, cocotte potatoes & tarragon Veal chop with black truffles, trompettes, creamed potatoes & meat juices (supp. £5) Monkfish roast on the bone with pommes Sarladaise, caramelised endive & parmesan Cod fillet with olive oil mash, red peppers, basil & aged balsamic vinegar Roast skate with cauliflower puree, root vegetables & hazelnut oil Assiette Citron Chocolate profiteroles Valrhona chocolate mousse Caramelised banana with passion fruit & coconut Baked vacherin with garlic, thyme, white wine & country bread Prune & armagnac ice cream or blood orange sorbet Sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream Cheese from the board (supp. £5) £30 for 3 courses, £40 for 4 courses incl. cheese Coffee £3 Mineral water £3 12.5% service I had the duck hearts - a risk for me as I'm not offal mad, but craved the chips & bearnaise. This turned out to be a complete surprise - the duck hearts were glorious - a generous portion, simply roasted over a fire, probably with thyme. Beautifully judged timing, delicate flavour, good texture. Bearnaise also quite delicious. But the chips, dear me, 4 (yes, four) geometrically cut rectangles stacked in a square; completely soft with no crust, tasting of slightly rancid duck fat. Either someone doesn't know how to cook chips, or duck fat is not suited to cooking them. My companion was absolutely happy with his Angus steak salady thing - it looked good and tasted good. Main courses for both of us were a real disappointment - I had the skate, he the monkfish. I am coming to the conclusion that fish is to be avoided in higher end restaurants until fashions change and they stop treating fish like meat. Particularly after my experience with Rosie's brill at the Sutton Arms. It is so rare to find that kind of well-judged fish cooking in the country with absolute respect for the main ingredient. My skate was grossly over-cooked, although the thinner underside next to the plate was better. The chef had gone for a crispy crust just like Eric Ripert talks about on his Q&A session here, but he had destroyed the inside of the fish along with it. And the crispy crust was hard and barely edible - I just couldn't see the point in it. The flavour of the fish was completely swamped by the meat jus used in the saucing. My dining companion had the same problem with this. Vegetables were in dice - looking like frozen veg but of course not. But I don't think serving them like this does anything for the eating experience. And the cauliflower puree, although tasting OK, had been turned into such a finely homogeonised(sp?), murky-coloured substance (with a hand-held blender?) that it gave me the willies eating it. On a previous visit I had a very good experience with the cheese, so, knowing that my friend was paying, that he was feeling rather poor due to ridiculous car-repair bills, and bearing in mind his preference for white wine, I had ordered one of the cheapest - a Jurancon sec. Yellow and alcoholic is about all you could say about it, but I blame us for being cheap, rather than the restaurant. This allowed me to have both cheese and dessert, in retrospect not a wise decision. Cheese turned out not a success. By then it was well after 10pm and the cheese board was tired, sweaty and depleted. Most infuriating was that after serving me they went and added a whole bunch of new cheeses and completely rejuvenated it. Also the French boy serving had no idea what the cheeses were and was bullshitting: Boy: 'and this is an English cheese, Explorateur' V: 'English?' Boy: 'yes, English, Explorateur' V: 'This is an English cheese?' Boy: 'yes, English, Explorateur' and so on. So I gave up. Then I pointed out a large piece of English hard cheese, he looked at it, I could see the wheels turning in his head as he was thinking what to say, and he announced 'Cheddar'. I suggested it was a bit pale for Cheddar but he insisted. On tasting, it certainly wasn't Cheddar and after a lot of toing and froing it turned out to be Kirkham's Lancashire - the worst bit of Kirkham's Lancashire I have ever tasted. All the cheeses were out of condition except for a bit of Epoisses. These guys could learn something from The Capital here, especially about having a cover for their cheese board. The investment would save them a lot in dead cheese. Dessert: Assiette Citron for him, Sticky Toffee Pudding for him (he's a bloody foreigner, so that is exotic for him). I couldn't criticise my assiette: small scoop of lemon sorbet, small cylinder of lemon cheesecake and small tarte au citron. It's just that I'm not crazy about desserts in restaurants. It just isn't what I want at the end of the meal. I would have adored those things some time in the day, away from a main meal. Espresso for me at the end. Bill: £106 incl. 12.5% service. They don't leave a gap on the credit card slip In general service was very good except for bullshitting cheese server. I'll be back, but the spectacles will be less rose-tinted and I will avoid the fish. v

Adam, as our resident Australian wine expert: While digging around at home for some white wine for an event tonight where quantity will be more important than quality, I came across another Australian marsanne - well, a marsanne/viognier mix: D'Arenburg Hermit Crab 2001. Any opinion? v

Jaybee v