Aurora

Thinly sliced Polish ham with thin slices of garlic dill pickles toasted on stone ground wheat with deli mayonaise mixed with a little brown mustard (Goulden's).

What do you mean, "in the business." I have been trying to figure out Foodtv's philosophy for months now. They are "the business," though I still have no idea of their philosophy. The "business", meaning THE TELEVISION INDUSTRY. In that sea, The Food Network is but one boat in a vast ocean. Please forgive any vagueness. I have had the opportunity to work on several documentaries that were produced through WTTW, here in Chicago. Within the industry, PBS is notorious for its broadcast standards. For a show to be aired on PBS, it must meet rigorus specifications in two categories. One set is content, which is obvious. The other is broadcast quality. Every show that airs on PBS must also meet international broadcast standards and be conversion ready, and that's just the start. This is one of the reasons why PBS programming is so costly and difficult to fund (that and no commercial sponsorship). The broadcast requirements for the other networks is not as stringent. If FN placed such standards on its programming it would no longer exist. They would price themselves out of existence. Any network is always trying to gain new viewers, and FN is no different. The original formula did build a good-sized audience, but that original audience isn't good-sized enough for FN to remain competitive over time with other networks currently on cable. All it takes is for a few key cable markets to drop FN from its services. It's clear that targeting the foodie audience wasn't a big moneymaker. If it was, they would still follow that original format today.

For my money, the most interesting alternative to The Food Network was there before anyone else, and it continues to thrive. PBS has broadcast a steady stream of quality, serious cooking shows since there was such a thing as cooking shows (yet another nod to Julia Child). PBS enforces the most rigorous production and content standards in the business. For food people, the result is a lineup of cooking shows that are informative--dare I say educational--and even fun. PBS doesn't dummy down with sickly trendiness or the employment of en vogue camerawork. There's nothing that amounts to the look of a Mitsubishi ad with food, nor are there cute tag lines, unless some find "Bon appetit!" (Child), or "Happy cooking!" (Pepin) annoying. PBS delivers a straight-forward, consistent approach to cooking; clear instruction and explanation in technique and simple camera moves that actually hold their attention on, get this, THE FOOD! I don't deny that some may find PBS a tad dry and boring, but I love it. The best part is that it's free (yes, I'm a member), and I always learn something. I'm never left feeling like I just took a ride on the Cyclone. In praising the virtues of PBS, it's important to note that the financial strength of any PBS station is the guiding hand determining the depth and variety of its programming. Stronger markets can afford to purchase and produce better shows. Boston, New York, Chicago and San Francisco head the list. As a resident of Chicago, this does serve to guide my opinion, if not color it completely. To be fair, those of us who live in markets where the local PBS station has little to offer (mainly due to cost) may still be searching for that oasis in the FN desert. I recognize that what PBS offers in Chicago is not the case for every PBS station. Chicago's public television station (big nod to WTTW!) is one of the best. I gain more from the weekly Saturday cluster of cooking shows than I do from watching FN on a daily basis. I do like some programs better than others, but I still gain something from my lessor favorites. My likes and dislikes are based more upon the personal style of each TV chef. Even with my dislikes, I cannot argue with the production quality or the content. I do tune in to FN to watch Mario Batali, Anthony Bourdain, Gale Gand, and yes, Alton Brown. Iron Chef is wonderful comic relief. Between those things is an endless string of reminders of why I don't really watch it as much as I could. I guess I'm waiting for some great shift or change in its direction that will also help me change my opinion. Perhaps I tune in to make sure that I'm still not judging the network unfairly. It has been discussed in other threads, but over time, the FN has become less and less for the serious cook or true food lover. What began with good intentions appears to be succumbing to the whims of marketing and revenue. In this new era of the celebrity chef, FN functions more like E!, and in that way it must appeal to it's broadest demographic. What that translates into is a lowest common denominator of sorts. Not that there aren't good things to be found, but the good things don't number as high as the questionable stuff. In an effort to reach new viewers, serious food people, a relatively small percentage of FN's total market, are cut out of the mix. Simply put, reaching out to people like us would certainly improve the quality of the FN, but sadly, it won't keep it alive. In this past week's "Good Eating" section of the Chicago Tribune, food and wine columnist, William Rice conducted an interview with Julia Child in honor of the celebration of her 90th birthday. He asked for her thoughts on cooking on television, and her response did little in support of FN. In case you would like to read the interview, I have included the link. Chicago Tribune Interview with Julia Child The Food Network isn't a total loss. Absorb what works; reject what doesn't. Write to FN and register your displeasure. Better still, turn it off. It could be much better, but it still beats Mr. Food.

Where can I get it in the United States? I don't mind going out of my way, but for a condiment, Belize is just a little too far.

I think it is, but you should beat the egg in the milk, rather than using the ingredients seperately. Better yet, use buttermilk, and allow the tomato slices to soak in the egg and buttermilk mixture for 10 minutes prior to dredging. Let it rest, then, one slice at a time, do a really fast dunk just prior to the second dredging. That should give you a nice crisp outside with a soft but firm inside. Oh, don't forget to serve it with hot sauce or Tabasco.

Generally, I leave the bag to pears and reserve space on my window sill for the tomatos. I find that putting tomatos in brown paper bag accelerates the ripening just fine, but in such a way that the tomatos become excessively watery and not as flavorful. It will do in a pinch, but if you do it, especially with green tomatos that you want to stay green, don't leave town. When you return, you will find that your recipe plans will have changed from Southern to Italian. Green tomatos on the window sill shouldn't stay there for more than a day or so to get that soft, soft ball feel, but just leaving them in a bowl on the kitchen table works well too. I agree with you, I prefer to get the sweetness from the tomatos themelves rather than adding sugar. Additional sugar tends to add a cloying sweetness that is more candy-like than tomato-like. I assume you are asking me about fried green tomatos with regard to the cornmeal. I have never tried it with just cornmeal, I need something to counter the grit. I add a little flour and baking powder in addition to salt, pepper, and cayenne. I dredge them once, let them rest in the fridge for about 15 minutes, and dredge them a second time before frying in canola or peanut oil. I hope this is helpful.

Those green tomatos were still just a little too green. That's the stage when it is best to buy them, but wait a day or two before you prepare them. When I buy green tomatos, I want them to have the feel of a hard soft ball. I start cooking with them when they have just a little more give, unless I am pickling with them. In that case, I use them right away.

In light of that overlooked fact, switching the two would be...difficult (many apologies for the error)

Excellent! Tremendous thanks! I know you must be terribly busy. Best wishes for a successful opening. BTW, what is the date of the opening?

I would second that. I would also swap the Tuesday lunch/dinner.

Cabrales' avatar comes to mind for me.

I too have a junk drawer, but not really. It's more like a drawer that has things that I need but don't always have an immediate use for. This is where I store my mill, candy and meat thermometers, pastry bags, bamboo skewers, tartlet pans, etc. My kitchen is a big rectangle with no counters (more like a second living room with running water), so I remedy that with a work table and two butcher block tables with drawers. What I am fortunate to have is a small pantry. That's where the drawer can be found. All the things that I need on a regular basis are on top of the butcher block by the stove. The surface is large enough to hold a scale, a knife block; a small crock that holds measuring spoons, peelers, tongs, and the ice cream scoop; and a large crock that holds whisks, silicone spatulas, large spoons, ladles, metal spatulas, turners, and wooden spoons. I don't dare put my microplaner in there for fear of hand zest--that goes in the drawer below. I have some cabinet space for pots and pans, but it isn't much. Anything else that can be hung on hooks (like large copper cookie cutters and cast iron skillets) is. After that, I leave it in the dish rack.

OK. Point taken. This could turn into a horrible disaster. For safe measure, I will head back up to Devon Ave.

I often use cider or red wine vinegar, or lemon juice especially when preparing southern dishes. Chow chow combines all the flavor components you have discussed, and cider vinegar works especially well with the clove. It also balances with the sugar that is added by allowing the mixture to retain its characteristic sweetness without being syrupy. I use a red-wine vinegar as a final additon to turnip or collard greens. It counteracts the tendacy for the greens to be salty as a result of simmering with smoked pork. In both cases, I am not necessarily going for a specifically tart bite as much as I am trying to balance the flavors.

Would anyone be so kind as to provide a recipe for ghee? I would like to try it using buffalo milk. I have never used buffalo milk, and I suspect that I may have some diffuculty obtaining it at my local market. Is it an item that I could find at an Indian market?

I'm glad you enjoyed the movie. Le Colonial was under consideration for my list. Stilll very good. The finishing touches are being put on a new restaurant that will open in the hotel Sofitel. I'm not sure of the opening date. When I mentioned Heaven on Seven, I should have told you that I prefer the location on Wabash that is generally only open for lunch. Jimmy Banos' recipe for orzolaya is delicious. You can also call the restaurant and order the meat, seafood and sausages from the vendors that they use for the restaurants. Does anyone have any thoughts about the restaurants in Greek Town? My impressions of Greek Town generally conclude at mediocre and touristy. A meal that I had at The Greek Isles last Friday didn't do much to change my thinking. In fairness, I will say that my lamb shishkebob was beautifully prepared--served medium, tender, and juicy. I should have stopped on that good note. I could use their baklava as bait.

Chicago is the home of the world's largest Polish population outside of Poland. As a result, Chicago has access to wonderful Polish food (Kasia's Deli on Chicago Ave. and The Red Apple on Milwaukee are among my favorites). We also have a broad selection of Polish beers to choose from. Tonight, actually while writing this, I am drinking Zywiec. Though I don't know for sure, I think it's a lager. It has a nutty flavor and is mildly sweet. It is 5.7% alcohol and comes in a 1 pt., 1 oz. bottle. It's good, and I would like to know if anyone else has tried it. Are there any suggestions about Polish (and Russian) beer in general? Does anyone have a favorite or two?

...assume that the rubber gasket is unimportant when assembling a blender pitcher. 1977 - Lesson learned while assisting my father in making Grasshoppers for business associates during a dinner party. Oopsy, doopsy!

I think Blackies is good, but I don't quite understand what all the raving is about. I think this is due to the fact that I grew up with an amazing burger stand in my home town (Kopps in Milwaukee on Port Washington Rd.). There isn't a burger in the world that compares to what they serve for my money. Given that I am viewing Blackies through a filter, I may not be the best person to ask. My opinion is you won't be diappointed, but you won't be blown away. Still, lets consider the fact that you're going to a movie, and a scary movie at that. I think burgers might be the appropriate pairing. Ruth's Chris is good if you are going after the movie and not before. You don't want to sit in a movie theater seat for two hours after a meal there. Keefer's is good too, but if you go there call ahead. Getting a table is a little difficult on weekends without a reservation, but you could sit at the bar. Again, go AFTER the movie. Also, consider The Original Billy Goat (lower Michigan). This is more of a nostalgia place, but I do enjoy going every now and then, and it's quite close to McClurg Ct. Have you considered Bandera? I like it more as a lunch spot, but it also works well as a before-or-after movie restaurant; provided that your're going to an early screening. Beef seems to be your aim for tomorrow's meal. If you're open to one more suggestion, consider Heaven On Seven at Rush and Ohio. No, it isn't steak or burgers, but it's good food in a lively atmosphere and it's only a few blocks away from McClurg Ct. BTW, Theater 1 in McClurg Ct. is the only way to go. Of the three screens, it is the largest, and its sound system is far superior to the other two. Call and find out which screen Signs is showing on. Attend the Theatre 1 screening. It's worth it. There it is, my humble opinion. I hope it helps. Most importantly, have a great time!

Are you kidding? Shame on you two times. A burger without ketchup? That's like my grandmother being dressed for Sunday services without an outrageous hat--it's not possible. I do prefer my Heinz 57 in the short, restaurant glass bottle.

You being here and posting is thanks a plenty.

Hello Awbrig - Let me be the first to say WELCOME.

Which location are you referring to? I assume you mean the one on Western Avenue, which is more established. There is a recent second location on Roscoe Street, one block south and several blocks east. Either one is just fine. I would guess that the reason for creating the second location was to establish a presence among the quietly developing restaurant row on Roscoe Street, which is more intimate and accessible (the neighborhood, Roscoe Village, takes it's name from the street that runs through it). Great food. The service was warm and homespun. Overall, reviews on the restaurant are mixed, but mostly favorable. I think the reason for this is that some go there using Mexican food as a yardstick for comparison. This is unfair, yet easy to do. I also think some folks are unable to relax their fine dining expectations when they venture to the neighborhood restaurants.

Simon - thanks for the report. Like you, I have been turned off by the over marketing of the Weber Grille. Its placement in a somewhat cartoony section of dining establishments was not helping. That section of restaurants is designed to attract tourists, and it packs them in making sure that they all stop to buy T-shirts, shot glasses, and baseball caps on their way out. How did your experience at Weber Grille compare to meals you have had at some of Chicago's more established steak and chophouses? Have you been to Morton's?

How truly forunate you all are. The NYT dining section is a smorgasbord compared to the less-than-wonderful presentation put out every Wednesday by the Chicago Tribune. Every week you set the dogs on Ms. Hesser. It's so entertaining. I really love it. Wouldn't it be nice for us to have a weelky reviewer that we could also love to hate? Someone that would encourage us to buy local for our food writing fixes. I don't think "The Wimsome One" would go over too well around here. One can get away with being a snob as long as they never proclaim it. I don't think she could cloak herself in the necessary amount of humility that would allow her to maintain credibility. Maybe Fat Guy would consider mov...nah, scratch that. Oh well, one can dream. In the meantime, we must continue to settle for imported papers.