Aurora

My Great-aunt Olivia. She died before I was born. She had no children, and she worked as a cook for a very prominent family in Milwaukee in the 1940s and 50s. She also wrote and traveled extensively. I have all of her handwritten cooking notes and recipes, and they are full of tips that have been very useful to me. Aunt Olivia was also a very stylish woman who focused on details. I have a picture of her as she was boarding a train -- destination unknown. It was taken during a time when train travel was luxurious, and people "dressed" for their trips. In the photograph, she is being assisted by a porter who is helping her with a steamer trunk. She's wearing gloves, beautiful pearls with matching earrings, and a wool suit with a sable stole draped around her shoulders (I still have it). Her hair is done in an up-do. Her hat, which matches the suit, is tilted to one side and carefully secured with a tastefully ornate hat pin. On her feet, are a sleek pair of black platform sling-backs that have an opening at the toe. She always carried one of those big, roomy handbags that was casually worn on the forearm, and she swore by corsages and Parker fountain pens. I am told that no one could plan and execute a meal the way she could, and I would love to dine with her. At the very least, perhaps I could go back in time and accompany her on her train trip, and sit with her in the dining car for just a little while.

Pre-grated has a dull flavor. Why not just shave it with a peeler the way FG is doing, OR use a micro planer and grate from the hunk on an as-need basis? It will taste much better, and you will get your money's worth.

Much thanks, Kaufman's is now in the Rolodex.

I love dried peaches. I use them in a family recipe for fried peach pies. I guess I know what I will be making later on today.

Do you mind providing the vitals on these places? I'm caught up in a fit of laziness. I don't want to look it up myself. I suspect your 10-month-old is into the bread due to itchy gums (teething).

I myself will never contract malaria.

If you ever get the chance, check out Breadsmith Inc. on N. Wells. Breadsmith Inc.

Teen Spirit! But seriously, am I the only one that likes chilidogs that include, eh hem, the magical fruit? Beef franks with medium hot w/BEANS, chopped onions, and Gulden's. Don't forget the beer chaser.

Please tell me they have malts. Nothing sucks more than a place that makes shakes but wont invest in a simple jar of malted milk powder. If they can do that, it sounds like my kind of place. What justifies the $5 tag on the grilled cheese?

Jacques Pepin Celebrates. May I have an extra year and handle half of one recipe each day?

Craig -- I think you're right, but I don't believe our reasons for not discussing Lettuce Entertain You are motivated by a sense of what is fashionable and what isn't. I also don't think it's a question of ignoring or discounting LEY, or considering them unworthy of discussion. I will say, in answer to your original question, that eGullet members don't really discuss LEY because LEY doesn't offer many of the things that eGullet members like to discuss. Sorry for the oversimplification, but I think that's the truth. Lettuce Entertain You does not put on any pretense about the fact that it is a money-making business, and that seems to come before anything else. Of course all restaurants are businesses, but the money-making aspect gets overshadowed because the food comes first. Talk of LEY as a corporate enterprise always weighs more heavily in discussion, and the food-driven aspect is secondary. eGullet tends to be far more food-driven with all else being secondary. LEY and its powerful grip are certainly relevant of discussion, but the way in which it is truly relevant (business first, food second) doesn't seem to inspire much on the boards. Any in-depth eGullet discussion of the food industry from a business perspective is rare in general. If "Food Industry As Business" was a more aggressively approached topic, LEY would be up there. It's a golden opportunity to start a new forum. Here's hoping that you and I are not the only ones discussing.

It's not that LEY is yesterday's news, it's just that much of what is going on there is not news TO US -- yesterday or today. Everest, Ambria and Tru are the exceptions for reasons already discussed. Most of us have been-there-done-that, and we will continue to go back when we are overtaken by that pang for a stairway of caviar. There has not been much discussion of Everest and Ambria on the boards, but we have Tru'ed eGullet to death. For LEY, which lives and dies on marketing, having several high-end "venues" allows them to have an interest in multiple levels of the dining spectrum. Rich Melman can lay claim to having high-profile chefs -- with television shows, cookbooks, and Beard nominations -- in his arsenal, and essentially, the sun will never set on Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. Everest, Ambria, and Tru are top-rated restaurants. Here the LEY philosophy understandably takes a back seat. From a marketing perspective, they are left to do what they do without applying that telltale LEY touch. In these three examples, LEY must almost operate in reverse and hide all signs of corporate formula to attract the foodie demographic. There's a reason why none of us post about phenomenal experiences at places like Maggiano's, Ben Pao and Café Baba Reba (sp) to name a few. Those places tend to repel diners like us, because the experience is one of equation with a predictable end result. That is phenomenal to a lot of people, but our interest in food makes us more exacting (no, not snotty), and anticipatory of creativity, authenticity, and surprise. For the most part, LEY operates from a completely different perspective. In terms of what we categorize as an amazing dining experience, most serious foodheads won't leave many Lettuce Entertain You restaurants with more than an assurance of decent leftovers for tomorrow's lunch. Because of our steadfast focus and undying love for food (not to be confused with our income brackets) and all that goes with it, we really aren't part of the LEY formula. We're in the mix, but we bear little resemblance to LEY's core representation. Still, Everest, Ambria and Tru are nice win-win consolation prizes for everybody, aren't they? In our dining, we seek out original, expertly, lovingly prepared cuisine that allows us to briefly get into the chef's head. When we dine seriously, the experience is humbling, unifying, and therefore elevating, and experiences like that can be found in all price ranges all over the world. The intensely food-focused experience is not what LEY is going for. Of course they want you to enjoy yourself and have a good time, and you will, but it won't go much beyond that in terms of delivering the type of gustatory adventure that we aim for and discuss in countless threads. I certainly don't mean to disparage LEY. From a business perspective, it's a great gig. It works and will probably continue to do so for a very long time. OK, criticisms about one restaurant or another flying under the LEY umbrella aside, they turn out a good, consistent product. When dining at a LEY restaurant, one knows what they are going to get, and that expectation is generally met. End of story. Cat's post underscores a LEY philosophy and approach that is primarily focused on attracting the young, in-crowd. It's not about the awe inspiring multi-course meal, and that's OK. There's a reason why the enterprise is called Lettuce Entertain You. Rich Melman knows what he's doing, and he clearly knows who he's doing it for. He's packing in pouty-mouthed 20-somethings, tourists, and day-tripping suburbanites -- none of them leave unhappy. They return again and again and they bring friends. That will probably never make LEY the focus of intense discussion within the pages of Saveur, Food Arts, or F&W, but you can read all about it in Fortune, Business Week and Forbes. Forbes doesn't do much to energize my food lust, but it makes the business woman in me say "right on!" Obviously, the LEYE card is great deal for the regulars. For the offerings that attract me, I don't frequent them enough for the card to be of any real benefit. Occasionally, I do head to Corner Bakery for the Mom's Chicken Salad and a few slices of olive chibatta. True, Corner Bakery is everywhere. I pass five of them on my way to work (including the one in the building where I work). Starting in August, the one going up in my bathroom will be open for business, so the opportunity to gain points abounds. But hey now? How much chicken salad can one girl eat even while taking a bath? Certainly not that much if a frequent dining program is my aim. I like to eat for reasons that extend far beyond acquiring gift certificates. As good as it is, there are endless offerings that eclipse the Mom's Chicken Salad. In those instances, LEYE points be dammed. When Lettuce Entertain You really gives us something to write about, we write. For now, I guess we're waiting.

Sorry for inadvertently posting twice. I finally get how that happens.

Hallo, Craig! I'm not Awbrig (who is? ) but I'll offer my two cents on this topic. As far as "Star-factor," Gibson's definitely is the place to see-and-be-seen. Celebrities often pop in there (Jack Nicholson has been sighted), and the prime Rush Street location makes Gibson's popular for power-brokers and glamorous types. But frankly, I think there's better steak to be had elsewhere in Chicago. When a friend and I went to Gibson's, we both ordered the W.R.'s Chicago Cut--a bone-in ribeye. For a well-marbled cut, this ribeye lacked the musky flavor that I've enjoyed elsewhere. I understand that Gibson's wet-ages their beef (as opposed to dry-aging), so perhaps this had something to do with it. Also, the table next to us had ordered a medium-rare NY strip, which had arrived closer to medium-well. They asked if our steaks were cooked properly, and indeed, they weren't quite as we had ordered them. Most Chicago steakhouses have their own distinctive atmospheres: Gene & Georgetti is a "regular-guy" steakhouse, with less glitz, a long wooden bar and a genuine pop-up (non-electronic) cash register. Imagine the "Cheers" bar that serves steaks to well-dressed clientele and you'll get the idea. Morton's is clubbier inside than Gene & Georgetti, and less glitzy than Gibson's. Has anybody tried the Paddle Steak at Iron Mike's Grille? I would pretty much second this. Gibson's is good especially if you want steak with a huge dose of the "see and be seen/celebrity factor" thrown in, but there are other places in town that almost seem to approach the subject as if it were a religious experience, and it shows. Gene & Georgetti's is the (wealthy) Chicaga' Guy place -- picture, if you will, Dennis Franz, and you've about hit it on the head. Iron Mike's is a close second to this. It's got all those guy elements -- dark, sports, guy, cigar, Ditka -- it's just not as good. I recently dined at the Chicago Chop House. It's practically an institution, but it seems to be resting on the reputation of accolades past. The most memorable part of the evening was the three bottles of Chilean Cab that we consumed. As far as the meal goes, I was a bit disappointed. Ruth's Chris (another chain) is very good, and there is clear pride in how the beef is aged and prepared. I would also give a big nod to Keefer's. Excellent food with a well-balanced menu. There's serious cooking going on in the kitchen -- more than just grillin' up meat, baking potatoes, and stirring the creamed spinach. Ask five Chicagoans about their preferred steak places; you'll get 20 answers.

Hallo, Craig! I'm not Awbrig (who is? ) but I'll offer my two cents on this topic. As far as "Star-factor," Gibson's definitely is the place to see-and-be-seen. Celebrities often pop in there (Jack Nicholson has been sighted), and the prime Rush Street location makes Gibson's popular for power-brokers and glamorous types. But frankly, I think there's better steak to be had elsewhere in Chicago. When a friend and I went to Gibson's, we both ordered the W.R.'s Chicago Cut--a bone-in ribeye. For a well-marbled cut, this ribeye lacked the musky flavor that I've enjoyed elsewhere. I understand that Gibson's wet-ages their beef (as opposed to dry-aging), so perhaps this had something to do with it. Also, the table next to us had ordered a medium-rare NY strip, which had arrived closer to medium-well. They asked if our steaks were cooked properly, and indeed, they weren't quite as we had ordered them. Most Chicago steakhouses have their own distinctive atmospheres: Gene & Georgetti is a "regular-guy" steakhouse, with less glitz, a long wooden bar and a genuine pop-up (non-electronic) cash register. Imagine the "Cheers" bar that serves steaks to well-dressed clientele and you'll get the idea. Morton's is clubbier inside than Gene & Georgetti, and less glitzy than Gibson's. Has anybody tried the Paddle Steak at Iron Mike's Grille? I would pretty much second this. Gibson's is good especially if you want steak with a huge dose of the "see and be seen/celebrity factor" thrown in, but there are other places in town that almost seem to approach the subject as if it were a religious experience, and it shows. Gene & Georgetti's is the (wealthy) Chicaga' Guy place -- picture, if you will, Dennis Franz, and you've about hit it on the head. Iron Mike's is a close second to this. It's got all those guy elements -- dark, sports, guy, cigar, Ditka -- it's just not as good. I recently dined at the Chicago Chop House. It's practically an institution, but it seems to be resting on the reputation of accolades past. The most memorable part of the evening was the three bottles of Chilean Cab that we consumed. As far as the meal goes, I was a bit disappointed. Ruth's Chris (another chain) is very good, and there is clear pride in how the beef is aged and prepared. I would also give a big nod to Keefer's. Excellent food with a well-balanced menu. There's serious cooking going on in the kitchen -- more than just grillin' up meat, baking potatoes, and stirring the creamed spinach. Ask five Chicagoans about their preferred steak places; you'll get 20 answers.

Whadya mean? I love dinner theater. I don't go with any expectation that it could possibly be--you know--good. It's like watching The Brady Bunch reruns. What make's it bad is what makes it good. Dinner theater is corny, cheesy crap. It's bad, and that's good. I'm never disappointed, so I'm always happy. That's the entertaining hook that always makes it an OK thing to do with my aunts, uncles, and grandparents. It's always the same...the aging, washed up, Broadway star still resting on the laurels of a once popular role that has long been forgotten...they really ham it up as they sing their signature song. When they get the much needed applause from the audience, they mouth "thank you" between phrases...the soggy salad arrives. Like clockwork, Aunties says, "I just love these rolls, their always so fresh and hot. I really should ask them for the recipe..." On it goes. Without fail, I'm usually the youngest person in the audience. It's all teased white hair, walkers, comfortable shoes, bifocals, the occasional oxygen bottle, Auntie and me. What is there to hate? I love it. For me, the worst distraction has to be the icy couple that clearly hates one another and fights throughout their meal. Of course, they sit in the middle the room and act as if no one can see them. They suck the life right out of the room.

I will put my money on the latter. Eventually people almost always forget the camera is present when there's no script. Perhaps Rocco will be destined for that "meeting" at the trash cans.

7-Up Russian Beer Crispy roasted chicken and a jar of Marie's Bleu Cheese for dipping Shoestring potatos Fully dressed baked potatos Mashed potatos American fries Hash browns My children's tater tots Candied sweet potatos Potato salad Green olives Puffed Cheetos Whopper w/cheese, bacon, extra pickles, no onions I've been known to dust a slab of ribs during these times. Arizona Iced Tea with lemon My friend Marc's pina coladas (made with Meyer's Dark and Coco Lopez).

Well, a good bit of what makes the brut or the angel fly are Q scores (odd, difficult to interpret numbers that indicate popularity), or estimated Qs based on test audiences and focus groups. If this were on cable, I could certainly see the advantage of going with the vulgar, tyrannical brut. That stuff sells like hot cakes...but this is a network venture, and the brutes rarely win in that arena for some reason. When you're playing to the lower half of the midrange, I guess ya gotta be nice. The larger question is, is that reality? Then again, is any of the reality-based stuff reality? In Rocco's kitchen, I suppose it will be as real as the magic of television will allow it to be. Spencer, I'm with you. I would love to sit back and watch real-life kitchen underlings get their asses chewed. Yes, that would entertain me. Perhaps we would be happier if they acquired Chef from the BBC and just ran that? Sure, an eGullet crowd would dig it (envision the Food Network if it were left to us to make the decisions)...but what about those sizable portions of the population that consider a night at Applebee's big doings? The networks perceive this demographic as lacking the ability to see things the way we do, Spencer. Unfortunately, those same numbers tell the networks that these are the people most responsible for helping them get their bills paid. Apparently, there are more of them than there are of us. Therefore, "evil" must always meet with "justice." Conflict must be brought to happy resolution and this must be neatly wrapped up before the end credits illegibly scroll up in that vertical sliver of television screen while your perky, dashing local anchors tell you about all the bad news they're about to report. Without a doubt, someone like Bourdain would be more like what we would expect. Think of it -- ranting, raving, screaming, sarcasm, chain smoking -- it would be great, but no network could leave it at that. Again, think of it...Sorry Tony, the last ten minutes of the show are approaching. The network says it's time, once again, for you to get your "evil" ass kicked by the lowly recipients of your abuse. This week, it's out back by the garbage cans. Gotta even this up and make it right. The shoddy vendors and half-wit line cooks that you've mercilessly barked at in this week's episode must have a say and make sure that you get yours... We can't put Bourdain through that every week. Rocco it is. Oh, and yes, Spencer, you are a curmudgeon. I wouldn't change a thing.

Fantastic article!!! Cheers and celebration for the Menstruation Maven (I will not call you that on a regular basis, I promise)! I laughed, I cried. Your article was truly a part of me! Preach it, sistafriend!

Wow! I will no longer claim that Kopps makes "the biggest burgers I have ever seen." Just curious, how much did that thing cost? What, aside from serious gas, did you get if you had the misfortune to finish your meal?

Though I wouldn't rate it as "the best," the Sacher Torte at Café Sacher(in Hotel Sacher) was memorable. Many people say Café Sacher is overrated. I wouldn't go that far. I thought it was pretty good -- not great. Still, the history alone made it a memorable experience.

"Laid back. With my mind on my money and my money on my mind!" Ginger Ale and Grapefruit juice. It's like homemade Fresca. My family hated Fresca. More for me!

Mmmm. Does anyone know if a 24-hour Costco exists somewhere? The thought of one here is intriguing. I could go for some of that apple pie right now. Has anyone tried their chicken pot pie?

YES! Wrap generously in plastic wrap and aluminum foil. Funny you bring that up. My boys and I just polished one off with a few scoops of cinnamon ice cream.