Jinmyo

Matthew, you were responsible for putting together some extraordinary programs and worked with many very talented people. Do you have a few favourite tales to tell, perhaps of the Bocuse D'Or special? Of course Mario stories are always welcome.

Xanthippe, I'm drinking iced green tea with mint.

Still sounds ghastly. Bring a bento.

Very true, Paula. It all unfolds such generosity if we are willing to find out what the possibilities are. My current adventure is to newly explore something I thought I knew well: kimchi. There are actually dozens of kimchi just involving daikon. As the seasons roll on and ingredients become available, the Days of Wonder are upon me.* ---- *I like to romanticize but with hyperbole. Sincere hyperbole though.

Paula, that's very interesting. While I don't like romanticism, I do appreciate the perspective brought to bear. It doesn't convey information as such but does unpack something of cultural and personal contexts.

Margaret, I rarely use masu but when I have I've used salt. I like salt. The contrast between the bright flare and crunch of the salt and the mellow roundness of the sake is very interesting both in flavour and texture. I wouldn't use a great sake though.

Steve, I think at the mid-level there would be places similiar to high-end Western Japanese places. Kristin, could you find out?

You know, invento, that's interesting. I'll try that with a spare masu and get back to you on it. Does one still use salt on the edge? I'll try it with and without.

Paul, yuzu is Japanese citrus. The idea of flavoured sakes is to move sake forward as an accompaniment to a wider range of meals. invento, that sounds to be an extraordinary sake.

Steve's food photos are always beautiful.

Paul, yes Momokawa Pearl is very nice. Momokawa Silver uses handcrafted koji. I'm not so sure about their "flavoured" sakes like Asian pear, raspberry, hazelnut and so on. Though I enjoyed their yuzu.

I'm afraid that in Ottawa it is very difficult to obtain artisinal sake. I haven't seen Otokoyama since a friend brought a bottle a few years ago. Usually we can can find the American Momokawa sakes. Some longed-for favourites are: Rihaku which is a junmai ginjo with a kind of fruitiness in the middle of the profile. Suigei, which is similar. And Urakasumi, which is wonderfully balanced and bright.

That would be gaijin-ryori.

Kristin, the order you've given is correct for kaiseki except that mid-way through the meal there would be hassun, something from the mountains and sea, a particularly seasonal item. Also, broiled and steamed precede nabemono. Shiizakana (Appetizers with sake) Mukouzuke (sashimi) Kuchitori (Side dish) Suimono (Soup, usually clear) Nimono (Simmered dish) Aemono (Dishes dressed with sauce) Kounomono (Pickles) Hassun (from mountains and sea) Sunomono (Vinegared dish) Yakimono (Broiled fish) Mushimono (Steamed dish) Nabemono (Pot dish) Gohan (Rice) Miso-shiru (Miso soup)

Anna, there ought to be. But there just isn't. You can't know what you don't know. Knowledge comes about from experience. Experience is messy and takes whatever time it takes and is never finished until you die. We have to be willing to admit what we don't know and alwayus be willing to learn. Of course, it is easier if you have a mentor. Or several of them. For those who did not have mothers or fathers or relatives who showed them how to cook (and I did not) and are not in the restaurant business, I recommend: Don't know what the difference between salami and salumi is? Ask the guy behind the counter. Ask your fishmonger to show you how to fillet a fish. You liked that pho? Ask if you can help in the restaurant kitchen for a few hours. Shop in ethnic markets and ask questions. In the supermarket, talk to the head produce guy. Ask questions, ask to be shown. Listen to everyone but don't believe them. Keep asking. Oh, and uh... Read eGullet.

That sounds very interesting. Thank you, Robert. Don't you mean a pumpernickel bread that was soaked in water or some such liquid? I wonder what a watered down rye starter eould be like?

A pumpernickel foam? Whazzat?

It's Chinatown, Matt.

Just two or three years ago I was taping shows off-air to share them with friends. Now I can barely stand to pause briefly and scroll through the line-up. What happened?

Ruth, really. Just try warming it in some oil or butter so it has all of its herbaceous flavours and crunch.

No, with the recipe you used for them, dear heart.

Slices of seared sea scallops sunk in a soup...uh...of tomato water and mustard oil. (Ran out of useful "s" words.) Salad of frisee with chopped radishes and soft-cooked quail eggs. Celery root puree topped with slices of monkfish and a light sauce made from monkfish liver and ginger with diced pickled mango. Racks of lamb with rosemary and a mint pesto. Crostini with roasted tomato concasse and slices of tallegio cheese.

Nice article, mamster. But it wasn't very funny.

Wolfert, would one rub this off before cooking and reseason?