paulraphael

Interesting. My only thought is that your pressure cooker did a good job of keeping things below the boil, so whatever fats were released didn't get emulsified. In the batch you boiled, the fats got emulsified and gave a richer flavor and texture (this can make a stock muddy if it's overdone, but is a staple of ramen stocks). This is just a guess.

The idea behind a double or triple stock is to concentrate the non-volatile flavors without losing all the volatile ones. It's substantially similar to the classical technique of reducing a stock in stages—reducing half the stock by 80% or so, then adding another quarter of the stock and reducing that a bunch, and then adding the last quarter and reducing hardly at all. It's simpler these days just start with less water, if you're using a pressure cooker or sous-vide. The catch is that you'll end up with a way higher proportion of aromatics. The pc lets just some of the aromatics out; the s.v. bag doesn't let out any. So you have to adjust your recipe. I cut way back on the mirepoix, especially carrots, which for some reason dominate in pc and sv stocks. And I leave garlic out of the sv bag entirely. If I want garlic, I'll steep it in later. SV'd garlic makes everything taste and smell like a tire fire (moral: not all aromatic compounds are sacred ... )

[I realize this tangent is only mistakenly about white pepper, but why not ...] If you use a ton of white pepper, a Unicorn mill would do the job nicely. At its coarsest setting it just cracks the corns. I don't use it often enough to justify this, so the white peppercorns live in the freezer, and use a mortar like you do. Or a saucepan on a cutting board.

The circulator in question here looks a lot like the commercial / lab units that made by several other companies. If you want something that burly, check out an Anova or Julbo or PolyScience commercial circulator. These companies make them for the 120v world.

Yup. The only common exception is the few appliances that require a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Like bigger air conditioners and espresso machines. You can recognize these things by the air conditioner plug that won't fit in a standard outlet. These appliances are allowed draw 2200 watts, maybe up to 2400. I've never seen this on a circulator. Not that much point. There'd be an advantage if you're starting with cold water and are racing to get it to temperature, or if you're heating a huge volume of water in an uninsulated container. But there's almost never a reason to do either of these things. 800-1200 watts is really plenty.

Awesome video, Donk79. I've never seen such a thorough teardown of kitchen stuff. And those aren't malapropisms; he's speaking his own language. I'd like to become conversational in it. It's like a Canadian engineering Cockney rhyming slang. Poetry. The engineering on these things is really in a class above anything else KA has made. I say this as Pro 600 owner who thinks that's a great mixer (I've had one problem with it, and rebuilt it as good as new for very little money). The blogger's one complaint is the quality of the circuit board. He thinks it's a failure point. My complaint is (as far as I can tell) they don't sell parts for the motor or transmission, so in the unlikely event that you break a gear or wear out a motor bushing, you have to replace the whole motor/transmission assembly. The good news here is that it's surprisingly cheap—$70 or $80 last I looked. That's about the same as a replacement motor for the lighter-duty mixers.

I was dissuaded by Dave Arnold's strong recommendation that you only use the Searzall with the most powerful torch heads. I checked and saw that my Bernzomatic head is at best second-tier ... substantially wussier than the one they suggest. How important do you think this is? I'd be more tempted if I didn't have to add the price of a top-of-the-line torch head.

Probably mentioned a million times upthread, but the Unicorn peppermill is still by far the best I've used. I have the small one (6" tall). They make one that's about twice as tall ... same mechanism, more pepper. It grinds pepper so quickly and effortlessly that you could probably empty the thing in under thirty seconds if wanted. And the mechanism adjusts to such a coarse grind that there's never a reason to manually crack pepper anymore (for dishes like steak au poivre, etc.). At the other extreme, the finest grind isn't quite as fine as it might be. Only other complaint is that can be slippery if your hands are wet or greasy. I put a strip of skateboard grip tape around the knob, which fixes it. The tape's lasted years. It doesn't offer the convenience of one-handed use, but I haven't found anything that I like which allows that. If I become arthritic I'll consider a powered one, but not before that.

Yeah, I was excited about that thing and ended up recycling it.

Of course I'm making up those numbers. What I'm not making up is how big the diminishing returns are on increasing reliability. Making something twice as reliable typically costs more than twice the price—if you're dealing with something that's pretty reliable in the first place (no major, obvious flaws, etc..). Would I pay more for a 10% failure rate instead of a 40% failure rate? No, I wouldn't buy the stupid product. A 10% failure rate (over a few years of normal use) is unacceptable and would probably be unsustainable for the company. These are made up numbers, too. I would be surprised if the failure rate has been much more than 1%, not counting their initial manufacturing run. If they've sold tens of thousands of them, that would account for hundreds of pissed customers. No one runs to the internet to trumpet that their immersion circulator didn't break today. When things fail, owners get vocal.

This. If you look back a year or two, you'll see a lot of participation from Anova's product manager, trying to assess the priorities of all of us in the eGullet peanut gallery (presumably a core customer base). He asked some tough questions, like to what degree do we value a touch screen vs. longevity. These are all engineering decisions that require compromises. We all say we want our stuff to be completely reliable—but how many of us would pay twice as much for something that's functionally identical, but promises, say, a 0.1% failure rate over 5 years vs. a 1% failure rate? If I'm buying rock climbing equipment, I can be hard-nosed about that kind of thing, but let's remember ... we're talking about a $200 electronic appliance that replaces an $1100 equivalent from just a few years earlier. This probably isn't explained entirely by economies of scale. It's not about the brand. Both Anova and PolyScience make stuff at different price points for different uses and expectations. You can get a lab-quality unit from Anova if you like. I'm sure it's much more reliable. It also costs over three times as much and is bulkier (but if you're a collector of antique computer technology, it will please you with its RS-232 connector, and potential to interface with god-knows-what biology lab software).

I started making bread for the first time in several years this summer. The goal was to finally make pizza that can compete with what I normally spend too much money on in restaurants. I live in Brooklyn, so the standards for serious pizza are daunting ... among other things, they requires a sourdough culture, which I'd had no experience with. So I started with regular sourdough bread, just to learn the process. Short version of the story: my pizza is still nowhere near good enough, but the bread is so good, that even though I live in a town with bakeries like Sullivan Street and Amy's and Balthazar, I'm never buying bread again unless I mess up and run out. I'm certainly done with commercial yeast. The flavors I'm getting out of the sourdough culture are insane ... like nothing I've had before. And the process isn't so hard. I was very worried about the hassle of dealing with the starter. Almost to the point of abandoning the project before starting. But I'm glad I didn't. My starter stays in the fridge, and I take it out the morning i need it. I feed it, and an hour later it's ready to go. This is likely because I use it about once a week and so it never goes completely dormant. If a couple of weeks or more go by, I'll try to take it out of the fridge and give it a small feeding the night before. But it's really a pretty low-maintenance pet. My advice to anyone who wants to try sourdough: do not start your own starter. There are reasons people buy or borrow starters that others have kept around for decades. Some are unusually good—not just in terms of flavor, but in terms of robustness and ease of use. And if you buy a starter that other people are using, you have an instant support group online. I'm using the Ischia Island starter sold by Sourdoughs International. It seems like 3/4 of the people in the world who make Neapolitan-style pizza use this culture. If you have questions about it, someone's got answers. It's a matter of making your life easier. As someone put it, if you want to learn how to surf, AND learn how to build surfboards, that's great—just maybe don't do both at the same time.

If you come across the red, hand-cranked Berkel prosciutto slicer, I suggest buying it just to display in your living room.

I've been using the My Weigh KD8000 for a couple of years. It works fine. It's sometimes handy that it holds a full 8kg (like if I want to measure food directly into a Dutch oven). This scale has a pretty unique feature in that it lets you measure with bakers' percentages. I invented this feature for them ... in an email exchange about service for an older scale, I asked them if they had a scale that did percentages. They were intrigued and said they'd give me a free scale I plotted out the user interface and the math for what I was talking about. I designed the thing for them, they sent me a (very nice) free scale, and that was that. A few years later the nice scale broke, and since I didn't have a receipt or warranty card, I had to shop for a new one. Lo and behold, there was the scale I designed. So I bought it. It's a perfectly good scale, but I have to admit, I've never once used the feature I designed. Does anyone use this scale, and if so, do you use the bakers' percentage function? Edited to add: I use an AWS scale for smaller quantities. It reads to 0.01g and holds up to 200g. Was cheap ... under $25. It's ok, but it can be slow to stabilize and give an accurate reading. This is inconvenient when you're measuring things like gums and leavening ingredients in tiny quantities. When it dies I'll try to find one that's better (hoping one exists).

That was no kind soul, that was me I'm glad that method's working out for you. It's an amalgam of techniques I've picked up along the way, with cooking times calculated by the SV Dash app. I haven't had a chance to try all the sizes, but it's been spot on for the couple that I've done.

I've had no trouble doing this when making the dough with instant yeast. If you're using a sourdough culture, it's likely to cause problems. I mostly use sourdough for pizza now, so instead of freezing half the batch, I make a loaf a bread out of it.

Great find. I was shopping Amazon and the restaurant stores. Never saw a set of the casters for $40.

My biggest argument against casters is that they're shockingly expensive. I priced out some wire shelving a couple of years ago and the casters cost more than than everything else put together. I ended up improvising some light duty ones (which required some drilling ... I used the kinds that go on the bottom of a desk chair). But if you want the standard heavy duty ones that go with the shelving, you need to be a smarter shopper than me or plan a bigger budget.

Probably most of them, but the one I linked above is 25-1/2.

I just did a quick look on webreastaurant store. They have many under $2000. I just don't know anything about the quality or the noise level.

We're shopping for a new fridge, and are dismayed by how many of them seem crappy, or expensive, or both. It's also a bit of a challenge to find one that's relatively shallow (doesn't jut out far beyond cabinets) and that will fit in our 31" wide slot. This got me thinking about commercial reach-in fridges. We could get a separate freezer for not too much, and put it ... somewhere. The commercial fridges are so much better designed than the consumer nonsense that I want to round up everyone from LG to Sub Zero and stone them to death. I don't know why everyone isn't making a fridge that's rectangular on the inside, easy to clean, and with an unlimited number of adjustable shelf positions. For extra credit, it could be configured to hold sheet pans instead of shelves. My fear is that it would be loud. They advertise 1/4 horsepower to 3/4 horsepower compressors, and this makes me think of a portable generator or sump pump. Not something I want to cohabitate with. Also, I wonder if the affordable brands (like Avantco) are reliable. Would the actual good ones cost as much as the high end consumer fridges? Anyone with experience with these things? I'm assuming it will turn out to be a bad idea, but wanted to double check.

Agreed. And please don't call heavy cream, egg yolk, and a pinch of salt "ice cream." It's not.

My girlfriend says watermelon is a superfood, and I choose to believe.

I just figure that where there's food, there's smoke ... If you can't sear at high temperatures (or if you're dealing with something thin and especially vulnerable to cooking through) you can get some help from chemistry. I keep a blend onhand that's about 1 part baking soda to 5 parts dextrose. sprinkle it onto the food right after drying it. Shazam. Nearly instant maillard reactions. This could help get a good sear if you're forced to use a nonstick pan.

Sticking shouldn't be a problem with steak on any surface. Just don't try to move it until it's started to brown. Assuming the pan is hot enough, and the meat reasonably dry, it will release. Sticking problems are always technique problems.