paulraphael

The exhaustive information on wine in Peterson's Sauces book corroborates this. He doesn't suggest that all wine is equal in cooking, but that the qualities that make a wine suitable for a particular sauce are often completely different than the ones that make it delicious to drink. According to Peterson, cooking will destroy light fruity flavors, many of the aromatic compounds, and almost all of a wine's subtlety. But it can be important to cook with a wine that has a lot of body, a lot of acidity (or very little), a lot of residual sugar (or very little), etc., depending on the application. I think there are some wines you'd choose not to cook with, for the same reasons you'd chose not to drink them. Some wines just taste terrible. I don't mean flabby, or unintneresting ... I mean terrible flavor. There's a chance that really assertive off tastes will survive cooking and wreak havoc with some sauces. 2 Buck Chuck wouldn't fit this category for most people, I suspect.

I assume the alcohol would be more than enough to prevent spoilage. I'm wondering about preserving the flavor. Many flavorful and aromatic agents can eventually react with oxygen, or with each other, and lower temperatures slow that process considerably. I just don't know how stable vanilla is in an extract solution.

i remember reading complaints somewhere that the chicago recipe in Peter Reinhart's American Pie book (supposed to be great, in general) isn't representative of anything people had had in chicago. I wonder if there's a message board for chicago pizza nuts (like slice nyc)?

I don't know any recipes, but my favorite chicago style pizzas have a crisp, flaky crust that's more like pastry than regular pizza crust. Giordano's has long been my family's fave (they've become a chain since I was a kid). The crust is like a pie crust.

Peterson's Fish and Shellfish is the only one I have ... http://www.amazon.com/Fish-Shellfish-Defin...n/dp/0688127371 Great book, though I haven't made any of the recipes, so I can't comment on those. I just use it as a comprehensive reference on selecting fish and cooking techniques. It lets me buy whatever fish at the market looks good (even if I've never heard of it), bring it home, and in a few seconds learn everything I need to know about cooking it.

What about storage temperature? I've always stored extract in the fridge (so did the ice cream store where I worked). Good, bad, or unimportant?

Here's a brownie theory question (and if no one has an answer, this might be a self-nomination for a test ...) The recipe I like uses a food processor to grind the chocolate and incorporate all the ingredients (including the tiny amount of flour at the end). The only ingredient that gets melted is the butter. I haven't come across any other chocolate recipes that use ground chocolate instead of melted. I gather the reason for grinding is either 1) for convenience, 2) an adaptation for an appliance cookbook, or 3) it does something different to the texture than melting. Any thoughts?

I'm curious to know what qualities people like in brownies. I've always been partial to having as intense and rich and chocolatey an experience as possible, without the brownie having the quite density and (especially) stickyness of fudge. I just assumed this is what everyone liked, until I stumbled onto a cooks illustrated article (one of those quests for the perfect ______ installments) on brownies. The author's ideal was specifically for something closer to cake than what I like. So where does everyone else stand? Brownies are the one recipe I've gotten from my mom. For most other desserts I go to people like Pierre Hermé and Alice Medrich and Gilles Bajolles, and experiment with their ideas until I need bypass surgery. But mom's recipe is so right on that I've hardly even tweaked it. I have no idea where she got it (it definitely isn't original) so I don't know if it would be within the rules to post it.

I wouldn't be sure without checking up on it. There are lots of different flavor compounds that get broken down by visible light and ultraviolet. The beer example is just a particularly obvious one (just a fraction of a second in direct sun makes beer skunky). Lots of other phenolic compounds and esters are effected in one way or another by light. It's obviously a bigger concern with foods that we store for a long time. Thos brown glass apothecary bottles you mention are brown for the same reason. It's not just food compounds that get broken down by light. Almost all my darkroom chemicals are stored in brown bottles. The most sensitive ones (developers, which contain strong reducing agents) benefit form old school amber glass. The rest are in brown plastic. I'm resisting the temptation to use my darkroom bottles for vanilla extract!

I've noticed that commercial vanilla extract always seemed to come in dark brown bottles (whether plastic or glass). This suggests that the extract is light sensitive. This wouldn't be too unusual ... a lot of chemicals are broken down by various wavelengths of light, and are supposed to be stored in amber bottles as a result. If so it might be worth using opaque containers or amber glass for the homemade stuff. Especially since everyone's making enough to keep around for ages. Any thoughts?

the point might be academic, but Harold McGee's book On Food and Cooking considers Cassia to be a variety of cinnamon, not a substitute.

Could you give an idea of how much the basic sharpening kit (2 or 3 stones, or whatever you're recommending, plus stone flattener) costs? I haven't looked into it, but my casual glances at pricetags make it look like these tools could cost more than any knife I decide to get!

Peterson't Essentials of Cooking doesn't really have recipes in the traditional sense. It's more like "here's how to cook," with a lot of specific examples (but little in the way of measurements).

I'd like to try the homemade extract experiment. Does anyone have opinions on a neutral tasting alcohol for the solvent? I suppose you could always dilute some everclear, but I never see that anywhere. I've noticed that most vodkas aren't nearly as neutral flavored as people sometimes say. Good vodkas can have a pretty complex set of flavors (and a big price) and cheap ones can have solvent-like flavors. I just want the extract to taste like vanilla.

No, it doesn't. It will trash the bearings, or at least void the warranty. The spiral hook transfers a lot of upward force to the gear box, which the old one wasn't designed to handle.

The trouble is that if these soups didn't taste like salt water, then campbell's would have to figure out how to make them taste like soup. which is a little trickier. As far as what you can call salt, are there rules in food labelling that say it can only be sodium chloride? In chemistry there are millions of compounds called salts. including ones that would melt the skin right off your tongue. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt

Cool, thanks. I'll see if my butcher can get some shoulder/butt (why is the shoulder called the butt??) for the next round of experiments. I'll post the results.

Do you think omitting the whites might produce a smoother or more succulent texture? By volume, do whites tend to give more or less structural strength than yolks?

Ok, if you don't experience with berkshire, what about regular pork? What cuts would you recommend for a succulent braise?

I've experimented quite a bit with flourless chocolate torte recipes. In general I prefer the ones with unseparated eggs (these are more like baked custards; the ones with whipped egg whites seem more like souflés). The finally recipe I developed uses three whole eggs, very lightly beaten. Since arriving at this, I've found a couple of similar recipes by pastry chefs I admire (Pierre Hermé and Gilles Bajole) that use a single whole egg plus three egg yolks. I'm curious to know the idea behind this is--why it might be beneficial to use a much higher proportion of yolks to whites. I plan to try it next time, but it's helpful to understand the theory. Any thoughts?

In my effort to duplicate the orgasmic berkshire pork experiences i've had at a couple of restaurants, I finally got my hands on some. The only cut they had was loin, so I had a couple of chops cut. They did not have the intense marbling that I've seen in pictures online, but had more than regular pork chops. I sauteed them, and thougth they were only ok. Better than your average chop, but still very lean, and nothing like the melting textures I've had before. I want to go back and try again. My two thoughts are that maybe I need a different cut (something fattier, perhaps with more collagen) and a different cooking method (like braising). Any ideas? My butcher said that they can get their hands on any cut of berkshire if I give them notice. I'd like something intensely flavorful and fatty with a melting texture.

Forgive me for going off-topic, but I'm curious if it's actually impossible to season stainless steel, or whether it can be done but people don't because A) it's unnecessary to prevent rust and/or B) it spoils the pretty finish. In my experience, grease certainly can be burned onto stainless in a manner that's extremely hard to remove without badass solvents. If grease were intentionally burned onto a stainless pan in a uniform manner, would this not function similarly to the seasoning on a carbon steel or cast iron pan? ← It might work a little, but stainless is a lot less porous than carbon steel, so I'd think the seasoning would be more fragile. Also, stainless is a lousy conductor compared with carbon steel.

I don't use shortening in anything (although I experimented with it in tart shells for quite a while). In the end it's going to come down to what flavor and texture you like most. Personally, even when I follow the conventional steps for a crumbly pate brisee crust, I end up with a fair amount of flakiness that I like quite a bit. If I wanted super flaky, I'd just go get some puff pastry and see what I could do with that. !00% flaky, and 100% buttery goodness. Here's an intetersting article by Melissa Clark of the NY times on her quest for the perfect pie crust. Good insight on alternative fats: http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/15/dining/1...serland&emc=rss

I wonder would it would take to actually change the system. A union? Rabble rousers turning everything upside down? I can't see it happening spontaneously. There seem to be so many people lined up to replace to anyone who walks out.

How is this racism (economic or otherwis)? Isn't it about people having the qualities required for the job? Would a restaurant that hires illegals cooks typically have a problem hiring an illegal waiter IF that person spoke the language well, had the people skills, and looked presentable? Is the person's nationality, skin color, or demographic an issue, or is it more commonly their simple ability to do the job and make the right impression? If there's prevalent racism in the FOH, I suspect it more often takes the form of french restaurants only hiring french waiters (regardless of who cooks the food), and other similar nationality/image preferences. But is this really racism? It's an interesting conversation. Like a high-end dress shop only hiring skinny, beautiful saleswomen. Of course they do, although many people question the legality of this kind of practice.