David Ross

Dungeness Crab was the star of last night's dinner. First up was a Dungeness Crab Salad. I created this dish as an appetizer for one of the competitions on "MasterChef USA" on PBS back in 2000. Back then, I called the dish "Dungeness Crab Mosaic," (due to the cucumber and tomato being cut in little squares like a "mosaic" of tiles), with Marjoram Mayonnaise (too strong an herb for the sweet crab), and Pear Chips, (too rubbery in texture). I've reworked the dish since then, but the basic elements are the same-Dungeness Crab, Roma Tomato and Cucumber. The garnishes have evolved to Lemon-Thyme Mayonnaise and Potato Chips. Last weekend I did a cooking segment on local TV. (I'm writing a detailed blog about cooking on local television that will be posted later this week in the Food on TV forum). We did Tiger Shrimp Stuffed with Crab for the show last week. I froze the leftover crab stuffing from the show and decided to use it in a new dish last night. I used the stuffing to make a version of what you could call "Spaghetti and Meatballs." In this dish the "spaghetti" was linguine that I tossed in a parmesan-cream sauce. The "meatballs" were made from the crab stuffing mixture. I dipped the meatballs in egg, then Panko breadcrumbs. I deep-fried the "meatballs" just until the crumbs were golden brown. Whatever you call this dish-"Spagehtti and Meatballs" or "Crab Croquettes on Linguine"-it is simply delicious. Enjoy.

Do I see bits of minced pork in your noodles? Your food is always--quite simply--delicious! Thank you for sharing your joy of cooking with us.

Thanks! I would describe the flavor of Razor Clams as the most intense clam flavor you can find. I think of the flavor of bits of clams in clam chowder, then multiply and intensify that by about 50 times and you have the "clam" flavor of Razor Clams. That's why I love them-they are so flavorful and in my opinion the essence of clammy flavor. There is much debate about the best way to cook Razor Clams. Most tell you to barely cook them or they will get tough. I would agree with that statement--up to a point. I like a combination of "just-cooked" and "a bit chewy" in my Razor Clams. In the Northwest, our Razor clams are pretty large. Two clams are a nice serving for each person. There are about 6-8 clams per package. We always have them either fresh or frozen in our local seafood market. I buy the Pacific Seafood brand. They come cleaned and ready to go. To start, I soak the clams in milk for about 30 minutes. Then they get dredged in seasoned flour. Then dipped in an egg wash. Finally, I dip them in some sort of breading. In the case of the photo I posted, I breaded the clams in Corn Flake Crumbs. I wouldn't use Corn Flake Crumbs again. They gave the clams a nice crispy coating, but were too sweet for my taste. Next time I'll stick with fresh white bread crumbs or panko. I fry them in canola oil (I like the mild-flavor of canola oil), in a non-stick, large frying pan. I use a candy thermometer to gauge the temperature of the oil. I start frying the clams when the oil gets to about 325, (just short of deep-frying temperature). I only fry them for about 2 minutes per side, maybe less. The belly of the clam is fatty, while the other muscles of the clam are more thin. If you don't fry the clam long enough, the belly will be basically raw. I fry the clams just to the point where the belly is cooked through, yet the other muscles are a bit more done. That's fine with me because I like the play of soft belly vs. the more chewy texture of the other muscles of the clam. Thanks again for your kind comments about the clams and that slab of Ribeye!

For the Fourth I had to have a big, fat steak-but I had to cut it to my own personal tastes first! Last year I started a topic about "Supermarket Steaks vs. Ye Olde Butcher Shoppe." Part of our discussion was related to how supermarkets steaks tend to be cut too thin for my tastes. I prefer a thick piece of meat because it gives me greater control during cooking in terms of the "doneness" of what I want in the finished steak. In my book, a thicker steak is a more juicy steak with far more "beefy" texture than you'd find in some 1/2" pansy of a steak. The butcher will usually cut steaks to my specifications, but I honestly don't always make a concious decision ahead of time to drive out of my way to the one reliable, old-fashioned butcher shop in the area. So that leaves me with what I call the "ultimate" option in terms of cutting steaks-to do it myself from a large cut, (if I find a good one at the supermarket)-in this case I cut steaks from a prime rib. Let's start with a 6lb. Rib Roast, USDA Choice Grade- Cutting the steak between the ribs- A "thick" slab of American beef on the Fourth of July. Now that's just about the perfect cut- Grilled on the Weber over charcoal and mesquite hardwood. Served with Slow-Roasted Tomatoes and New Potato Salad tossed with Marjoram Mayonnaise, Haricot Verts and Kalamata Olives- Medium-Rare and juicy. This was the moment when I said "God Bless America!"-

Two nights ago, Fried Razor Clams served with Linguine that I sauced with a Grapefruit Hollandaise and garnished with Green Beans.

Jeff thank you so much for the report and I am so glad you enjoyed Sensi. As you know, it is one of my favorites. You are right, the table off to the right as you walk past the reception desk and enter into the dining rooms is in fact a "Chef's Table." I believe it is normally set for 8-14 guests, but I think they will accept smaller parties. I have always found the staff and Chef Heirling quite accomodating, so if you are interested in booking the Chef's table next time you are in town, I'm pretty sure they will accomodate you-and I am sure Chef Heirling would welcome the challenge of being able to create a special tasting menu for the table. Next time request the live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns if they are in season!

After our worst Winter in 50 years-and snow into June-we are finally seeing the bounty of the great Northwest come alive in Eastern Washington. Both our raspberry and strawberry crops are about three weeks late this year-but not to worry, the recent hot sun has blessed us with very large, very sweet berries. And so I share with you the simplicity of nature found in two recent dishes-Raspberry Tartlet and Strawberry Ice Cream. I made a shortbread crust for the tartlet and filled it with pastry cream. I had thought about glazing the raspberries with red currant jelly, but after glazing a few of the raspberries in the jelly, I decided against doing so for the raspberries in the tart. While the currant jelly would have added a nice shine to the raspberries, I didn't like how the flavor of the jelly altered the virgin taste of these little red beauties. I use the same basic recipe for every ice cream I make-eggs, sugar, vanilla bean, cream and whole milk. For fruit ice creams, I mash the fruit with some sugar. (If you add chunks of strawberries into the cream base they will freeze into little icy chunks of strawberry-not a pleasant texture in your ice cream). After having made three quarts of Strawberry Ice Cream this Summer, I'm ready to move on to another one of our delicious Summer fruits. Next up, a batch of delicious Bing Cherry Ice Cream.

Good God Man! Do you want to kill me and send me to Sweet Heaven right now! My shopping list is ready and waiting. I think this cake will be delicious this weekend. Although it probably doesn't naturally fit into the French menu I've planned for Saturday with a nice Spring/Summer Veal Stew with Baby Vegetables, what the heck. That cake looks fabulous. Thanks for sharing.

Check out my recent report on "Vegas Uncork'd"-it includes reviews of both Sensi and Michael Mina. I'd suggest looking over the online menus ahead of time so you get an idea of the types of cuisine at each of the restaurants you've listed above. I always recommend that people try to look over menus in advance of making a reservation. That way you don't get to the restaurant, and pay big bucks, for food that doesn't suit you or the other people in your party. Both Michael Mina (Bellagio) and Nobhill (MGM) are owned by Chef Michael Mina. The cuisine at Mina is focused on seafood, while the dishes at Nobhill are more reflective of what some call the cuisine of San Francisco (i.e. the name Nobhill for the famous San Francisco neighborhood). Personally, I think the food at Michael Mina at Bellagio is superior, and I love the comfortable atmosphere-it's not at all stuffy like some of the other high-end places in Las Vegas. Kokomo's is your basic Las Vegas steak place serving USDA Prime Grade beef. I never totally understood why the people at The Mirage named their steakhouse Kokomo's-they say it has to do with the "tropical rainforest" decor of the hotel atrium-but the name just seems a bit out of place as it relates to the cuisine. Kokomo's is basically like many steakhouses in Las Vegas-they serve good meat and cook it decent. I think you would enjoy it, but Kokomo's doesn't offer anything over and above any other steak and potatoes place in town. You may want to venture out a bit and try Morel's (French Bistro, including steaks and a large cheese menu), over at The Palazzo or Restaurant DJT (New American with creative twists) over at Mr. Trump's hotel not far off the strip. I haven't been down to Aureole at Mandalay Bay in some time. I try to go to the newer places each time I go to Las Vegas. Enjoy and send us a report with photos.

Usually I make traditional Empanadas with a spicy beef filling, so using oysters was a bit of an experiment. The oyster Empanadas are really easy to make. For the stuffing, I chopped up fresh oysters and added cilantro, lemon juice, lemon zest and diced jalapeno. I thought about adding bread crumbs or mayonnaise as a binder, but I left it out because I didn't want to water down the taste of the oysters. Technically, these were not really Empanadas because I used store-bought wontons to hold the oyster stuffing. Traditional Empanadas are made with a flour based dough. I usually make the dough the old fashioned way with Masa Harina and Lard. This time I used wonton wrappers because I had forgotten to buy the Masa Harina at the store-so technically they were more on the Potsticker side than the Empanada side. You roll out a small round of dough, place about a tablespoon of the oyster stuffing in the center and then fold over the dough to form a little moon-shaped dumpling. Some people bake Empanadas, but I like to fry them so they are extra crispy. You deep-fry the little packets in hot oil at about 350 just until they turn golden-no more than about 2 minutes. Surprisingly, (and just the way I like them), the oyster chunks in the stuffing weren't overdone, still slurpy and delicious.

A couple of recent dishes: Oyster Empanadas served with Salad Greens, Roasted Red Pepper Sauce, Tartar Sauce and Queso Fresco Cheese. The stuffing for the empanadas was a mixture of chopped fresh oysters, cilantro, lemon juice, lemon zest and diced jalapeno. Chicken roasted on my Weber Grill rotisserie, served with Shoestring Fries and Leeks Vinaigrette.

Savoy is quite a special place-but you will be hard pressed to get out of there for under $500 for two. This is a place for serious French dining. The room is pretty stark in terms of the design-a small room with a very high ceiling. The furnishings, the tables, the chairs are all very understated so that the focus is on the food on the plates. As such, I feel that the mood and vibe of the customers at Savoy echoes the calm, serene atmosphere of the decor. The service is very formal, beginning with the champagne cart, the service of the dishes, the bread cart, the wine service, and the dessert cart. On and on it goes. And while it is a special, and expensive, experience, I wouldn't go back every trip I make to Las Vegas. The food at Alex is every bit as good and the room is simply like it's advertised-a combination of the grand staircase out of "Hello Dolly" and the first-class dining room on the Titanic. And the mood at Alex is more skewed toward refined elegance without pretension. At least that's been my experience.

I'll echo and agree with the comments of my studied friends. You may want to check out my recent report on my trip to Las Vegas in May. You'll find it under the header "Vegas Uncork'd" within this same Southwest and Western States Forum of Topics. The report includes thoughts and photos on my dinners at Michael Mina and L'Atelier along with a report about the behind the scenes activity at Wynn-including how they buy the precious seafood they serve at Bartolotta. Alex is quite formal-both in the setting and the food. It is still my favorite fine dining room in Las Vegas. L'Atelier is a relaxed setting in which you'll dine on some of the finest French cuisine in the country. If you order the tasting menu you'll get small dishes of about 9 courses-a very good deal at about $150.00 without wines. Order off the ala carte menu and you'll be served larger portions-but beware, the entrees can run upwards of $75.00. The simplicity of Bartolotta is intentionally designed so as not to spoil the freshness of the seafood. I might suggest you venture out a bit and try Michael Mina. And--don't think you are constrained by only ordering the signature dishes like the Lobster Pot Pie. I think it is totally appropriate to ask the restaurant at the time you make a reservation if they are offering a seasonal tasting menu or seasonal menu items. I've found that the restaurants in Las Vegas are usually quite receptive to meeting your special requests-they often welcome the opportunity to showcase their talents with dishes that may not be listed on the regular menu. I am sure Chef Amoroso would be happy to oblige you with his creativity. And rj is absolutely correct-DJT is not so quietly building a local buzz-some have already proclaimed it one of the top 5 kitchens in Las Vegas-and still rising on that scale.

The inspiration for this dish came from a Boulud cookbook. It's sort of an odd recipe for a French chef-the rhubarb is poached in a simple syrup that includes a lot, I mean a lot, of grenadine. While the grenadine added flavor and color to the rhubarb, it was overpowering. The grenadine turned the natural, tart flavor of rhubarb into a sticky, sweet, sort of triple-cherry coke without the fizz. Boulud called for stacking the rhubarb on tuille cookies, but I used puff pastry and made up my own presentation. There's a thin layer of pastry cream on the bottom piece of puff pastry. Nice dessert but it needs a bit more work.

The sushi at the end was an excellent way to finish the meal, David. It was light and delicate. There was no difficulty in distinguishing the nuances of the fish or the rice. ← Thanks for the info. Your photos are really outstanding, as was the report. Thanks again.

Absolutely beautiful doc. How did you feel about tasting the sushi toward the end of the meal? After the previous courses, were your tastebuds still able to savor the delicate flavors of each fish? Now tell me a bit about the sushi rice. Was it delicately seasoned with vinegar and did the seasoning of the rice get lost on your palate, again due to the previous courses? I'm intrigued by the change-up in what I've always thought is the normal progression of courses with the sushi being served at the beginning of the meal. You may have just opened my eyes to a new way of looking at this type of experience.

Your creations always inspire me! ← Thanks. I have a lot of fun making up these dishes!

Another Prawn Dish-this time a bit of a different take on Caesar salad. I marinated the prawns in my own Caesar dressing and then put them under the broiler. Instead of large pieces of romaine I cut the leaves into shreds and tossed the lettuce with more of the dressing. Instead of croutons, this time I made an anchovy butter and spooned some of that on top of toasted rounds of bread. The recipe for the anchovy butter came from a Daniel Boulud cookbook.

I haven't been there, but if you are looking for superb, authentic Italian cuisine, you might want to consider Valentino over at The Venetian. There is a bar and more casual cafe out front-the fine dining room is in the back. It doesn't get as much press as some of the newer places but it should-it's wonderful. ← Thanks for the tip. I'll be going to Las Vegas in two weeks. One friend was thinking of Italian one night. He says he likes Italian that's heavy on the red sauce. I suggested he look at the menu for B&B, as it's a place I was interested in. He took a look at the menu and it didn't appeal to him. He found some other place at venetian, Canaletto. Then suggested Rao's. I think he wants to go there since the one in NYC is supposedly impossible to get into. Personally, I would prefer something other than heavy red sauced American Italian food. I'll suggest Valentino. ← I'd steer clear of Canaletto. I've been there twice and both times were a dissapointment. It's a bit cheaper than Valentino, but saving a few bucks lessens the experience incredibly. I don't think you'll find Valentino heavy on the red sauces, but it is truly fine Italian dining of the highest order. I tend to think of Rao's as more Italian-American fare-yes, heavy on the meatballs and red sauce. What are the other restaurants on your list?

I haven't been there, but if you are looking for superb, authentic Italian cuisine, you might want to consider Valentino over at The Venetian. There is a bar and more casual cafe out front-the fine dining room is in the back. It doesn't get as much press as some of the newer places but it should-it's wonderful.

Hello-all of your meals and photos are delicious-I've been away too long! I've been busy doing a very lengthy report on a recent trip to Las Vegas. (You can catch it over in the Southwest and Western States Forum under "Vegas Uncork'd"). I'm loving seeing all of your delicious steaks and summer meals. A couple of recent dishes to share- Grilled Shrimp with Orange-Soy Vinaigrette and Vegetable Slaw- Loin of Lamb with Herb Crust, Asparagus Sauce, French Onion Tart- (Sorry, but I let the lamb go about 3 or 4 minutes too long in the oven. It turned out more on the "medium" side rather than a preferred "medium-rare.")

You might want to consider doing a "drinks and appetizers" type of party. It would be fun for a big group-sort of like a communal passing of plates of lots of small bites. Here are a couple of places to think about-"Social House" at Treasure Island and "Tao Asian Bistro" at The Venetian. Both have bars and restaurants. It won't be cheap, but it might be a bit less expensive than having full dinners and the vibe and party atmosphere would be fun. Each has a website that you can visit to get an idea of what they offer. Drinks can be in the $5-$10 range and appetizers in the $10-$20 range with a few plates being a bit more $$. But when you are in Las Vegas think FUN first. Sometimes people go into it thinking they'll have fun for a few bucks, only to be disappointed that they didn't spend a little more to have a memorable time.

← Thank you my friend. Your insight and comments have been most welcome, and I have learned a great deal from reading and understanding your perspective. Glad you enjoyed it.

“What's in the "cards" for dining in Las Vegas”- In comparison to other large American cities, Las Vegas is still relatively young in terms of age. When you consider Las Vegas in the context of a young, growing city, you realize that the number of outstanding restaurants is just as amazing as the growth in population. And with that exponential growth, Las Vegas is quickly rising up the ladder to the top levels of America’s great dining destinations. The growth of the restaurant community of Las Vegas is more than a simple matter of National chains coming to town-diners are quickly discovering that the newest restaurants have something unique to offer-and they’re asking for more. In 2008, the luxurious “Palazzo” resort hotel and casino opened. One of the restaurants in the Palazzo is “Morel’s French Steakhouse, and Bistro.” The “Bistro” concept isn’t necessarily a new idea in Las Vegas, but in addition to classic Bistro dishes, “Morel’s” has presented something new to Las Vegas diners-a full array of farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie-all handmade, artisanal products. Now ponder this small fact-when Morel’s opened, they offered 35 cheeses. When I visited with a Cheese Monger at Morel’s during my week in Las Vegas in May, she told me that they would be increasing the cheese “menu” to over 65 selections due to customer demand. Would any of us have imagined that hand-crafted cheeses would be so successful with diners in Las Vegas? As restaurants take risks in terms of creativity, they often surprisingly find that their customers are willing to join them in the fun of the adventure. Later this year, Steve Wynn will open “Encore,” the Sister property to his luxurious, five-diamond Wynn. No doubt Mr. Wynn’s focus on having “Chefs in Residence” at Wynn will be introduced to the restaurants he will debut at “Encore.” You may have read the posts on eGullet and on John Curtas’s website www.eatinglv.com, about “DJT” restaurant at Mr. Trump’s recently opened property in Las Vegas, the “Trump International Hotel and Tower.” Mr. Trump would never settle for second best in his restaurant kitchens, so he hired the talented duo of Executive Chef Joe Isidori and Chef de Cuisine, Chef David Varley, (previously employed in the kitchen at Bradley Ogden at Caesar’s), to head up the kitchen in the hotel’s restaurant “DJT." The generous reviews of the creative and surprising cuisine at DJT, have boldly claimed this new restaurant as one of the best in the city. The largest construction project currently underway in Las Vegas is the massive “MGM City Center” city within a city in the heart of the Strip. Scheduled to open within the next 18 months, “City Center” will be a combination of hotels and condominium towers which have been designed by a team of the world’s leading Architects. No doubt there will be enough fine dining establishments within City Center that you will be able to pleasure your appetite for literally days on end without ever ordering off the same menu. Who will be the next Michelin-Star French Chef to stake out his “terroir” in one of the new hotels being built in Las Vegas? Some say that Chef Pierre Gagnaire will join his countrymen Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse in Las Vegas. The thought of dining at four temples of Haute Cuisine-each within a few miles of one another-is almost unimaginable. When I started this topic, my goal was to find what I called the “truth” behind the kitchens of Las Vegas. The Bon Appétit “Vegas Uncork’d” events gave me the platform for expressing the truths that I uncovered. The “truth” in a dish is a very personal experience. You may experience that truth when you dine on “Moleche” Baby Green Crabs in Venice-or in Las Vegas. The “truth” may come with that first, memorable taste of a dish you’ve never experienced. For me it was that first bite of the “Lemon Drop” when the shell of crisp meringue broke open, revealing a creamy filling of “Citrus Semifreddo and Pineapple Confit”-a taste sensation I discovered in Las Vegas. Thank you for obliging me with your time and interest in reading my report. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed sharing my story with you.

Random thoughts and conclusions- “A Tale of Five Chefs Gala, Saturday, May 10, Bellagio”- I’m sorry to report that the photo album from my trip to Las Vegas closed after lunch with Daniel Boulud. I had hoped to share photos from the Saturday evening “Tale of Five Chefs” Gala with you, but using an old Las Vegas adage-“that wasn’t in the cards” for me on Saturday night. Earlier on these pages, Chufi asked me how I endured a week of gorging myself in Las Vegas. I responded by saying that I try to follow the practice of not over-imbibing on alcoholic beverages, especially at lunch, and drinking lots of water between meals. Well, I didn’t heed my own advice on Saturday afternoon at lunch with Boulud. I certainly didn’t need a third glass of wine with each of the five courses served at lunch. I had reached my limit, the breaking point where a week of decadence had caught up with my body. I needed a rest on Saturday night before attending an “after-the-events” dinner with friends on Sunday. Much to my own dismay, I didn’t make it to the crowning glory of “Vegas Uncork’d,” the “Tale of Five Chefs” Gala at Bellagio, hosted by my good friend John Curtas, the gregarious Father of Las Vegas dining. Imagine, sleeping through a private dinner of five luscious courses prepared by Todd English, Michael Mina, Julian Serrano, Jean-Phillipe Maury and Jean-Georges Vongerichten! I suppose there was one saving grace for my wine excess on Saturday afternoon-it allowed me the opportunity to “donate” my $275 ticket to the Gala event to the coffers of Bon Appetit as a gesture of goodwill for staging the events in Las Vegas. From what I gathered from friends who were there, numerous high-tech devices were employed, (music, video, smoke and fireworks), to introduce each Chef and their creations. The “insider” reports from my sources tell me that the performance of Mr. Curtas as Emcee of “Five Chefs” was given a rating of “five-stars” alongside the “five-star” Chefs who prepared the dinner. Boy did I miss a stunning event. Wine Service in Las Vegas- The Marketing Department at the MGM Corporation has created an ad that will no doubt elicit some criticism from New York. I found this advertisement in the program guide of the events for “Vegas Uncork’d.” A photo of a large wine glass is framed with this proclamation: “There are 96 Master Sommeliers in the Country-Three are in New York City, an unprecedented four of them are at Bellagio.” I can’t verify whether or not the numbers for New York are accurate, (but I’m sure someone here at eGullet is qualified to do so). I can tell you that when I was dining at one of the restaurants at Bellagio I was told that they actually have FIVE Master Sommeliers in residence at the hotel. In addition to the Master Sommeliers of Las Vegas, the larger hotels also employ a Wine Director, an Assistant Wine Director, a Wine Purchasing Department, Assistant Sommeliers and Assistants to the Assistant Wine Sommeliers. The focus on wine in Las Vegas is quite impressive. There is a growing movement within the fine dining community to put the same amount of attention on the wine list that the Chefs place upon the cuisine. One of the best examples of this collaboration of food and wine can be found on the numerous “tasting menus” with “wine pairings” found on Las Vegas menus. I encourage you to seek out these pairings because they give you the opportunity to learn and taste how wines can complement and accent the flavors of a particular dish. Of course, wretched excess is alive in Las Vegas and one can find $15,000 bottles of vintage French Bordeaux-the varieties of wines favored by the big “whales” in town trying to impress their silicone inflated girlfriends. (These are the same guys who don’t know the difference between vintage wines or wine “spritzers”). The “best” wine service I found in Las Vegas came during dinner at Wolfgang Puck’s “CUT” Steakhouse at the Palazzo on Sunday night-the evening after the “Vegas Uncork’d” events had ended. What stood out in my mind was the “classic” service presented by the two young ladies who were tasked with serving our wines. The depth of their knowledge of each wine was only revealed after they wheeled a chrome "Gueridon," (trolley), to the table. It was adorned with sparkling crystal decanters and an army of wine glasses appropriate to each variety that would be served. I will tell you that I felt quite special when the other tables of diners looked our way and saw the display of waiting wine goblets. While the steaks were from good “stock,” (albeit overly salted), the starters outstanding, (especially the “Bone Marrow Flan and Parsley Salad”), and the Strawberry Napolean cut into a portion large enough to serve four, the wine service at Chef Puck’s newest Las Vegas restaurant was a “CUT” above. Wonderful. And just a few more thoughts to follow.....................