David Ross

Jeff thank you so much for the report and I am so glad you enjoyed Sensi. As you know, it is one of my favorites. You are right, the table off to the right as you walk past the reception desk and enter into the dining rooms is in fact a "Chef's Table." I believe it is normally set for 8-14 guests, but I think they will accept smaller parties. I have always found the staff and Chef Heirling quite accomodating, so if you are interested in booking the Chef's table next time you are in town, I'm pretty sure they will accomodate you-and I am sure Chef Heirling would welcome the challenge of being able to create a special tasting menu for the table. Next time request the live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns if they are in season!

After our worst Winter in 50 years-and snow into June-we are finally seeing the bounty of the great Northwest come alive in Eastern Washington. Both our raspberry and strawberry crops are about three weeks late this year-but not to worry, the recent hot sun has blessed us with very large, very sweet berries. And so I share with you the simplicity of nature found in two recent dishes-Raspberry Tartlet and Strawberry Ice Cream. I made a shortbread crust for the tartlet and filled it with pastry cream. I had thought about glazing the raspberries with red currant jelly, but after glazing a few of the raspberries in the jelly, I decided against doing so for the raspberries in the tart. While the currant jelly would have added a nice shine to the raspberries, I didn't like how the flavor of the jelly altered the virgin taste of these little red beauties. I use the same basic recipe for every ice cream I make-eggs, sugar, vanilla bean, cream and whole milk. For fruit ice creams, I mash the fruit with some sugar. (If you add chunks of strawberries into the cream base they will freeze into little icy chunks of strawberry-not a pleasant texture in your ice cream). After having made three quarts of Strawberry Ice Cream this Summer, I'm ready to move on to another one of our delicious Summer fruits. Next up, a batch of delicious Bing Cherry Ice Cream.

Good God Man! Do you want to kill me and send me to Sweet Heaven right now! My shopping list is ready and waiting. I think this cake will be delicious this weekend. Although it probably doesn't naturally fit into the French menu I've planned for Saturday with a nice Spring/Summer Veal Stew with Baby Vegetables, what the heck. That cake looks fabulous. Thanks for sharing.

Check out my recent report on "Vegas Uncork'd"-it includes reviews of both Sensi and Michael Mina. I'd suggest looking over the online menus ahead of time so you get an idea of the types of cuisine at each of the restaurants you've listed above. I always recommend that people try to look over menus in advance of making a reservation. That way you don't get to the restaurant, and pay big bucks, for food that doesn't suit you or the other people in your party. Both Michael Mina (Bellagio) and Nobhill (MGM) are owned by Chef Michael Mina. The cuisine at Mina is focused on seafood, while the dishes at Nobhill are more reflective of what some call the cuisine of San Francisco (i.e. the name Nobhill for the famous San Francisco neighborhood). Personally, I think the food at Michael Mina at Bellagio is superior, and I love the comfortable atmosphere-it's not at all stuffy like some of the other high-end places in Las Vegas. Kokomo's is your basic Las Vegas steak place serving USDA Prime Grade beef. I never totally understood why the people at The Mirage named their steakhouse Kokomo's-they say it has to do with the "tropical rainforest" decor of the hotel atrium-but the name just seems a bit out of place as it relates to the cuisine. Kokomo's is basically like many steakhouses in Las Vegas-they serve good meat and cook it decent. I think you would enjoy it, but Kokomo's doesn't offer anything over and above any other steak and potatoes place in town. You may want to venture out a bit and try Morel's (French Bistro, including steaks and a large cheese menu), over at The Palazzo or Restaurant DJT (New American with creative twists) over at Mr. Trump's hotel not far off the strip. I haven't been down to Aureole at Mandalay Bay in some time. I try to go to the newer places each time I go to Las Vegas. Enjoy and send us a report with photos.

Usually I make traditional Empanadas with a spicy beef filling, so using oysters was a bit of an experiment. The oyster Empanadas are really easy to make. For the stuffing, I chopped up fresh oysters and added cilantro, lemon juice, lemon zest and diced jalapeno. I thought about adding bread crumbs or mayonnaise as a binder, but I left it out because I didn't want to water down the taste of the oysters. Technically, these were not really Empanadas because I used store-bought wontons to hold the oyster stuffing. Traditional Empanadas are made with a flour based dough. I usually make the dough the old fashioned way with Masa Harina and Lard. This time I used wonton wrappers because I had forgotten to buy the Masa Harina at the store-so technically they were more on the Potsticker side than the Empanada side. You roll out a small round of dough, place about a tablespoon of the oyster stuffing in the center and then fold over the dough to form a little moon-shaped dumpling. Some people bake Empanadas, but I like to fry them so they are extra crispy. You deep-fry the little packets in hot oil at about 350 just until they turn golden-no more than about 2 minutes. Surprisingly, (and just the way I like them), the oyster chunks in the stuffing weren't overdone, still slurpy and delicious.

A couple of recent dishes: Oyster Empanadas served with Salad Greens, Roasted Red Pepper Sauce, Tartar Sauce and Queso Fresco Cheese. The stuffing for the empanadas was a mixture of chopped fresh oysters, cilantro, lemon juice, lemon zest and diced jalapeno. Chicken roasted on my Weber Grill rotisserie, served with Shoestring Fries and Leeks Vinaigrette.

Savoy is quite a special place-but you will be hard pressed to get out of there for under $500 for two. This is a place for serious French dining. The room is pretty stark in terms of the design-a small room with a very high ceiling. The furnishings, the tables, the chairs are all very understated so that the focus is on the food on the plates. As such, I feel that the mood and vibe of the customers at Savoy echoes the calm, serene atmosphere of the decor. The service is very formal, beginning with the champagne cart, the service of the dishes, the bread cart, the wine service, and the dessert cart. On and on it goes. And while it is a special, and expensive, experience, I wouldn't go back every trip I make to Las Vegas. The food at Alex is every bit as good and the room is simply like it's advertised-a combination of the grand staircase out of "Hello Dolly" and the first-class dining room on the Titanic. And the mood at Alex is more skewed toward refined elegance without pretension. At least that's been my experience.

I'll echo and agree with the comments of my studied friends. You may want to check out my recent report on my trip to Las Vegas in May. You'll find it under the header "Vegas Uncork'd" within this same Southwest and Western States Forum of Topics. The report includes thoughts and photos on my dinners at Michael Mina and L'Atelier along with a report about the behind the scenes activity at Wynn-including how they buy the precious seafood they serve at Bartolotta. Alex is quite formal-both in the setting and the food. It is still my favorite fine dining room in Las Vegas. L'Atelier is a relaxed setting in which you'll dine on some of the finest French cuisine in the country. If you order the tasting menu you'll get small dishes of about 9 courses-a very good deal at about $150.00 without wines. Order off the ala carte menu and you'll be served larger portions-but beware, the entrees can run upwards of $75.00. The simplicity of Bartolotta is intentionally designed so as not to spoil the freshness of the seafood. I might suggest you venture out a bit and try Michael Mina. And--don't think you are constrained by only ordering the signature dishes like the Lobster Pot Pie. I think it is totally appropriate to ask the restaurant at the time you make a reservation if they are offering a seasonal tasting menu or seasonal menu items. I've found that the restaurants in Las Vegas are usually quite receptive to meeting your special requests-they often welcome the opportunity to showcase their talents with dishes that may not be listed on the regular menu. I am sure Chef Amoroso would be happy to oblige you with his creativity. And rj is absolutely correct-DJT is not so quietly building a local buzz-some have already proclaimed it one of the top 5 kitchens in Las Vegas-and still rising on that scale.

The inspiration for this dish came from a Boulud cookbook. It's sort of an odd recipe for a French chef-the rhubarb is poached in a simple syrup that includes a lot, I mean a lot, of grenadine. While the grenadine added flavor and color to the rhubarb, it was overpowering. The grenadine turned the natural, tart flavor of rhubarb into a sticky, sweet, sort of triple-cherry coke without the fizz. Boulud called for stacking the rhubarb on tuille cookies, but I used puff pastry and made up my own presentation. There's a thin layer of pastry cream on the bottom piece of puff pastry. Nice dessert but it needs a bit more work.

The sushi at the end was an excellent way to finish the meal, David. It was light and delicate. There was no difficulty in distinguishing the nuances of the fish or the rice. ← Thanks for the info. Your photos are really outstanding, as was the report. Thanks again.

Absolutely beautiful doc. How did you feel about tasting the sushi toward the end of the meal? After the previous courses, were your tastebuds still able to savor the delicate flavors of each fish? Now tell me a bit about the sushi rice. Was it delicately seasoned with vinegar and did the seasoning of the rice get lost on your palate, again due to the previous courses? I'm intrigued by the change-up in what I've always thought is the normal progression of courses with the sushi being served at the beginning of the meal. You may have just opened my eyes to a new way of looking at this type of experience.

Your creations always inspire me! ← Thanks. I have a lot of fun making up these dishes!

Another Prawn Dish-this time a bit of a different take on Caesar salad. I marinated the prawns in my own Caesar dressing and then put them under the broiler. Instead of large pieces of romaine I cut the leaves into shreds and tossed the lettuce with more of the dressing. Instead of croutons, this time I made an anchovy butter and spooned some of that on top of toasted rounds of bread. The recipe for the anchovy butter came from a Daniel Boulud cookbook.

I haven't been there, but if you are looking for superb, authentic Italian cuisine, you might want to consider Valentino over at The Venetian. There is a bar and more casual cafe out front-the fine dining room is in the back. It doesn't get as much press as some of the newer places but it should-it's wonderful. ← Thanks for the tip. I'll be going to Las Vegas in two weeks. One friend was thinking of Italian one night. He says he likes Italian that's heavy on the red sauce. I suggested he look at the menu for B&B, as it's a place I was interested in. He took a look at the menu and it didn't appeal to him. He found some other place at venetian, Canaletto. Then suggested Rao's. I think he wants to go there since the one in NYC is supposedly impossible to get into. Personally, I would prefer something other than heavy red sauced American Italian food. I'll suggest Valentino. ← I'd steer clear of Canaletto. I've been there twice and both times were a dissapointment. It's a bit cheaper than Valentino, but saving a few bucks lessens the experience incredibly. I don't think you'll find Valentino heavy on the red sauces, but it is truly fine Italian dining of the highest order. I tend to think of Rao's as more Italian-American fare-yes, heavy on the meatballs and red sauce. What are the other restaurants on your list?

I haven't been there, but if you are looking for superb, authentic Italian cuisine, you might want to consider Valentino over at The Venetian. There is a bar and more casual cafe out front-the fine dining room is in the back. It doesn't get as much press as some of the newer places but it should-it's wonderful.

Hello-all of your meals and photos are delicious-I've been away too long! I've been busy doing a very lengthy report on a recent trip to Las Vegas. (You can catch it over in the Southwest and Western States Forum under "Vegas Uncork'd"). I'm loving seeing all of your delicious steaks and summer meals. A couple of recent dishes to share- Grilled Shrimp with Orange-Soy Vinaigrette and Vegetable Slaw- Loin of Lamb with Herb Crust, Asparagus Sauce, French Onion Tart- (Sorry, but I let the lamb go about 3 or 4 minutes too long in the oven. It turned out more on the "medium" side rather than a preferred "medium-rare.")

You might want to consider doing a "drinks and appetizers" type of party. It would be fun for a big group-sort of like a communal passing of plates of lots of small bites. Here are a couple of places to think about-"Social House" at Treasure Island and "Tao Asian Bistro" at The Venetian. Both have bars and restaurants. It won't be cheap, but it might be a bit less expensive than having full dinners and the vibe and party atmosphere would be fun. Each has a website that you can visit to get an idea of what they offer. Drinks can be in the $5-$10 range and appetizers in the $10-$20 range with a few plates being a bit more $$. But when you are in Las Vegas think FUN first. Sometimes people go into it thinking they'll have fun for a few bucks, only to be disappointed that they didn't spend a little more to have a memorable time.

← Thank you my friend. Your insight and comments have been most welcome, and I have learned a great deal from reading and understanding your perspective. Glad you enjoyed it.

“What's in the "cards" for dining in Las Vegas”- In comparison to other large American cities, Las Vegas is still relatively young in terms of age. When you consider Las Vegas in the context of a young, growing city, you realize that the number of outstanding restaurants is just as amazing as the growth in population. And with that exponential growth, Las Vegas is quickly rising up the ladder to the top levels of America’s great dining destinations. The growth of the restaurant community of Las Vegas is more than a simple matter of National chains coming to town-diners are quickly discovering that the newest restaurants have something unique to offer-and they’re asking for more. In 2008, the luxurious “Palazzo” resort hotel and casino opened. One of the restaurants in the Palazzo is “Morel’s French Steakhouse, and Bistro.” The “Bistro” concept isn’t necessarily a new idea in Las Vegas, but in addition to classic Bistro dishes, “Morel’s” has presented something new to Las Vegas diners-a full array of farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie-all handmade, artisanal products. Now ponder this small fact-when Morel’s opened, they offered 35 cheeses. When I visited with a Cheese Monger at Morel’s during my week in Las Vegas in May, she told me that they would be increasing the cheese “menu” to over 65 selections due to customer demand. Would any of us have imagined that hand-crafted cheeses would be so successful with diners in Las Vegas? As restaurants take risks in terms of creativity, they often surprisingly find that their customers are willing to join them in the fun of the adventure. Later this year, Steve Wynn will open “Encore,” the Sister property to his luxurious, five-diamond Wynn. No doubt Mr. Wynn’s focus on having “Chefs in Residence” at Wynn will be introduced to the restaurants he will debut at “Encore.” You may have read the posts on eGullet and on John Curtas’s website www.eatinglv.com, about “DJT” restaurant at Mr. Trump’s recently opened property in Las Vegas, the “Trump International Hotel and Tower.” Mr. Trump would never settle for second best in his restaurant kitchens, so he hired the talented duo of Executive Chef Joe Isidori and Chef de Cuisine, Chef David Varley, (previously employed in the kitchen at Bradley Ogden at Caesar’s), to head up the kitchen in the hotel’s restaurant “DJT." The generous reviews of the creative and surprising cuisine at DJT, have boldly claimed this new restaurant as one of the best in the city. The largest construction project currently underway in Las Vegas is the massive “MGM City Center” city within a city in the heart of the Strip. Scheduled to open within the next 18 months, “City Center” will be a combination of hotels and condominium towers which have been designed by a team of the world’s leading Architects. No doubt there will be enough fine dining establishments within City Center that you will be able to pleasure your appetite for literally days on end without ever ordering off the same menu. Who will be the next Michelin-Star French Chef to stake out his “terroir” in one of the new hotels being built in Las Vegas? Some say that Chef Pierre Gagnaire will join his countrymen Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse in Las Vegas. The thought of dining at four temples of Haute Cuisine-each within a few miles of one another-is almost unimaginable. When I started this topic, my goal was to find what I called the “truth” behind the kitchens of Las Vegas. The Bon Appétit “Vegas Uncork’d” events gave me the platform for expressing the truths that I uncovered. The “truth” in a dish is a very personal experience. You may experience that truth when you dine on “Moleche” Baby Green Crabs in Venice-or in Las Vegas. The “truth” may come with that first, memorable taste of a dish you’ve never experienced. For me it was that first bite of the “Lemon Drop” when the shell of crisp meringue broke open, revealing a creamy filling of “Citrus Semifreddo and Pineapple Confit”-a taste sensation I discovered in Las Vegas. Thank you for obliging me with your time and interest in reading my report. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed sharing my story with you.

Random thoughts and conclusions- “A Tale of Five Chefs Gala, Saturday, May 10, Bellagio”- I’m sorry to report that the photo album from my trip to Las Vegas closed after lunch with Daniel Boulud. I had hoped to share photos from the Saturday evening “Tale of Five Chefs” Gala with you, but using an old Las Vegas adage-“that wasn’t in the cards” for me on Saturday night. Earlier on these pages, Chufi asked me how I endured a week of gorging myself in Las Vegas. I responded by saying that I try to follow the practice of not over-imbibing on alcoholic beverages, especially at lunch, and drinking lots of water between meals. Well, I didn’t heed my own advice on Saturday afternoon at lunch with Boulud. I certainly didn’t need a third glass of wine with each of the five courses served at lunch. I had reached my limit, the breaking point where a week of decadence had caught up with my body. I needed a rest on Saturday night before attending an “after-the-events” dinner with friends on Sunday. Much to my own dismay, I didn’t make it to the crowning glory of “Vegas Uncork’d,” the “Tale of Five Chefs” Gala at Bellagio, hosted by my good friend John Curtas, the gregarious Father of Las Vegas dining. Imagine, sleeping through a private dinner of five luscious courses prepared by Todd English, Michael Mina, Julian Serrano, Jean-Phillipe Maury and Jean-Georges Vongerichten! I suppose there was one saving grace for my wine excess on Saturday afternoon-it allowed me the opportunity to “donate” my $275 ticket to the Gala event to the coffers of Bon Appetit as a gesture of goodwill for staging the events in Las Vegas. From what I gathered from friends who were there, numerous high-tech devices were employed, (music, video, smoke and fireworks), to introduce each Chef and their creations. The “insider” reports from my sources tell me that the performance of Mr. Curtas as Emcee of “Five Chefs” was given a rating of “five-stars” alongside the “five-star” Chefs who prepared the dinner. Boy did I miss a stunning event. Wine Service in Las Vegas- The Marketing Department at the MGM Corporation has created an ad that will no doubt elicit some criticism from New York. I found this advertisement in the program guide of the events for “Vegas Uncork’d.” A photo of a large wine glass is framed with this proclamation: “There are 96 Master Sommeliers in the Country-Three are in New York City, an unprecedented four of them are at Bellagio.” I can’t verify whether or not the numbers for New York are accurate, (but I’m sure someone here at eGullet is qualified to do so). I can tell you that when I was dining at one of the restaurants at Bellagio I was told that they actually have FIVE Master Sommeliers in residence at the hotel. In addition to the Master Sommeliers of Las Vegas, the larger hotels also employ a Wine Director, an Assistant Wine Director, a Wine Purchasing Department, Assistant Sommeliers and Assistants to the Assistant Wine Sommeliers. The focus on wine in Las Vegas is quite impressive. There is a growing movement within the fine dining community to put the same amount of attention on the wine list that the Chefs place upon the cuisine. One of the best examples of this collaboration of food and wine can be found on the numerous “tasting menus” with “wine pairings” found on Las Vegas menus. I encourage you to seek out these pairings because they give you the opportunity to learn and taste how wines can complement and accent the flavors of a particular dish. Of course, wretched excess is alive in Las Vegas and one can find $15,000 bottles of vintage French Bordeaux-the varieties of wines favored by the big “whales” in town trying to impress their silicone inflated girlfriends. (These are the same guys who don’t know the difference between vintage wines or wine “spritzers”). The “best” wine service I found in Las Vegas came during dinner at Wolfgang Puck’s “CUT” Steakhouse at the Palazzo on Sunday night-the evening after the “Vegas Uncork’d” events had ended. What stood out in my mind was the “classic” service presented by the two young ladies who were tasked with serving our wines. The depth of their knowledge of each wine was only revealed after they wheeled a chrome "Gueridon," (trolley), to the table. It was adorned with sparkling crystal decanters and an army of wine glasses appropriate to each variety that would be served. I will tell you that I felt quite special when the other tables of diners looked our way and saw the display of waiting wine goblets. While the steaks were from good “stock,” (albeit overly salted), the starters outstanding, (especially the “Bone Marrow Flan and Parsley Salad”), and the Strawberry Napolean cut into a portion large enough to serve four, the wine service at Chef Puck’s newest Las Vegas restaurant was a “CUT” above. Wonderful. And just a few more thoughts to follow.....................

Thanks for the kind comments. Let me know which restaurants you're going to try when you go in June-I'm always interested in the choices people make. I hope that my comparison with Phantom of the Opera gave some readers pause to consider the issue of "soul" as it applies to restaurants in Las Vegas. While nothing will ever compare to the experience I had at the Phantom in London--seeing Phantom in Seattle was a different experience, one with soul, because I was witnessing this very special musical in my "home" if you will. Dining at Guy Savoy in Las Vegas may have a different feel than dining at the Master's "home" in Paris, but does Paris have a better "vibe" than Las Vegas or are the two cities just different? It's something to consider. And as I mentioned before-is the soul of a restaurant a matter of the "place," or is it the ingredients? Does the produce have to be local and seasonal, and the fish harvested exclusively from local waters? Or--as I am inclined to believe, is the soul of a restaurant found in the hands of the Chef who creates the food? Now one could discuss this point even further when it comes to Las Vegas. Is the Chef trained to prepare the cuisine of Todd English at Olives simply following through with the training he received in Boston? Does that qualify, (or disqualify), him as having soul? I think we can only answer after having dined at the restaurant. Will our tastes of the dishes give us the answer? Or--are our other senses jaded because we are having lunch overlooking the fountains at Bellagio? Does this ruin our experience and tell us the restaurant lacks soul--or is it just a different expression of soul? The questions are harder to answer when we are speaking about "Celebrity Chef" restaurants. (By the way, I'd love to be sitting on the patio at Olives right now having a delicious slice of wood-fired pizza, sipping a nice Pinot Grigio while I watch the fountains. I have to head outside and do yard work!). But don't automatically disqualify a restaurant in Las Vegas as lacking soul because it carries the "Celebrity Chef" moniker. If you read my earlier review of my first dinner in Las Vegas-at "Michael Mina" at Bellagio-you'll clearly see that Chef Amoroso is doing two things quite remarkably well. He's carrying out the vision of Michael Mina while at the same time expressing his own soul through his own unique dishes. And I hope I was successful in pointing out the greatest example of the "truth" and "soul" behind one of the great hotels and restaurants in Las Vegas when I invited everyone on my tour at Wynn. The attention to detail at the hotel and the presentation of Chef Paul Bartolotta are really unmatched--and the Wynn embodies my definition of "truth" and "soul." Doc has presented incredibly strong arguments as to his side of the debate, and I absolutely respect the man for it. In fact, whenever I see his name next to a post on eGullet I immediately read it-he's tasted and travelled the world in search of the "truth" and "soul" behind some of the world's greatest restaurants-so he knows about what he speaks. (And a man who butchers his own lamb just has to be respected!) What we agree on is that the dining experiences in Las Vegas can be quite fabulous, the ingredients exquisite and the techniques employed in the kitchens are often flawless. That's pretty much a given. The questions about the deeper truths in Las Vegas will no doubt be a matter of further discussion.

I love it! Giuliani Italian "Spring Water" from the pipes of Brooklyn! Wonderful.

“The Great Las Vegas Water Ruse”- After reading my trip report about Las Vegas and the “Vegas Uncork’d” Events sponsored by Bon Appetit, you may have been lulled into thinking I was writing a softball travel brochure for the State of Nevada-a report sans any manner of credible criticism. But I give credit where credit is due, and for the most part, (the most part), the week was outstanding in just about every aspect-except for the water “Ruse” that is inflicted upon unsuspecting diners in Las Vegas. I have a lot of criticism for the water deception that is practiced at nearly every fine dining restaurant on the Strip. Don’t get me wrong, I love bottled water-for its convenience in quenching my thirst when a drinking fountain isn’t nearby. And I drink lots of water-usually from a tap. But call me a Traditionalist, (I call myself that very name), but I can’t bring myself to spending good money for bottled water in a restaurant when the public supply is just as good-or better. On past trips to Las Vegas I’ve dined alone, and that may be a factor as to why I have never become the victim of the “Great Las Vegas Water Ruse.” Maybe the waiters had taken pity on the lone man hovering over his Lobster Bisque and they couldn’t bring themselves to draw me into the Water Ruse. Maybe the Ruse was a trick of the 80’s that had finally been relinquished to the same fate as the old signs that bake under the desert heat in the Neon Graveyard. But the week I was in Las Vegas, I saw plenty of first-hand evidence to support the argument that the "Great Las Vegas Water Ruse" lives on. I will qualify my rant by saying that the “Great Las Vegas Water Ruse” was not tolerated at any of the private lunches or dinners I attended in conjunction with “Vegas Uncork’d.” Maybe the water service was already considered into the cost of the ticket. But I did have some meals separate from the formal events where the deception was openly practiced. (Not all of those meals earned the marks of merit to be included in this report). The “Water Ruse” isn’t something unique to Las Vegas-it is practiced in restaurants across the country-and depending on the region of the country, the State, the county and the local water source-there may be no good reason for you to pay upwards of $15.00 for a bottle of water at dinner. The Water Ruse in Las Vegas is just very apparent because there are so many fine dining establishments inhabiting a concentrated piece of real estate on the Strip. Some of the bigger resorts are the home to ten or more upscale, high-priced restaurants, all waiting for unsuspecting tourists and their credit cards to pad the bill with charges for “water.” This is a basic outline of how the “Great Las Vegas Water Ruse” is practiced- -Buy bottles of water in very large quantities, railroad cars of the stuff. Buy it in bulk so you get a cheap price, say a buck fifty per 10 ounce bottle. Mark-up the stuff, more than you do the wine, and pocket a hefty profit. -Immediately after being seated, ask the diner whether they prefer “still” or “carbonated” water. Do this before handing out menus or taking cocktail orders-they’re thirsty, it’s Las Vegas, it’s hot, they want water. -Some pretentious restaurants will present you with a leather-bound “water” menu. My, I wasn’t aware that water was so precious that it deserved being categorized for the “vintage” of the water. -Bring the beautifully pressed and shaped plastic bottle to the table well-chilled, but not iced, and presented in a faux silver wine caddy. You must impress the diners with your water service. -Pour the water into fine crystal goblets, but do not dilute the exquisite bouquet of the water by adding cubes of ice. -Add the appropriate, ridiculously outrageous charge to the final bill. If you can, bury it somewhere between the listings of the entrees and the desserts-they probably won’t even notice. Now I know there are plenty of people who will disagree with me-“the water must come from pristine glacial streams that have been untouched by the Modern Age.” Settling for anything less, like “tap” water, will poison your palate and you will not be able to taste the subtle flavors in the Chef’s cuisine. If it works for you, I respect your opinion. It just doesn’t work for me. I just can’t bring myself to pay $15.00 for a bottle of water packaged by a soft-drink maker that comes out of a tap in Atlanta. The primary source of drinking water provided to the citizens of Las Vegas and greater Clark County comes from Lake Mead. Lake Mead is formed by waters from the Colorado River. I’m not a water biologist, but it sounds clean and tasty to me. And it’s basically “free.” If you are of the same mind as I am when it comes to the water you drink at dinner, next time you go to Las Vegas try the “counter-move to the Ruse” that I played on the waiter at “L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon.” The waiter brought two bottles of water to my seat, one still, one carbonated. “Which type of water would you prefer this evening Mr. Ross.” “Neither” I said. “I would prefer a glass of “Clark County Ice Water, 2008” please. My response evoked a wry smile from the server-he knew I was on to the Ruse-but he respected a man who knew that “water for money” doesn’t always mean “better water” in Las Vegas.

Las Vegas goes East to Iron Chef America. I just saw a preview on Food Network for Sunday's "Iron Chef America." I think it's a new episode. It's going to be Batali vs. Paul Bartolotta, (see my report on Chef Bartolotta above), should be a good one. I hope the "secret ingredient" is some sort of seafood.

Saturday, May 10, “Star Chefs Luncheon Series” at Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn- It’s only fitting that the last set of photos that I am going to present come from the crowning glory of a week’s indulgence in Las Vegas-Lunch with Daniel Boulud. (This is the last set of photos, but I’ll be sharing some parting thoughts later). When Mr. Wynn designed his hotel, he made a very bold move in terms of the restaurants that would inhabit his luxury Las Vegas property. His penchant for detail was carried into the selection of the Chefs who would run the kitchens of the dining rooms at Wynn. Steve Wynn specified that all of the executive chefs at his hotel would have to live in Las Vegas and be in the kitchen every night-an undertaking that was unheard of within the Las Vegas restaurant community. Imagine-a stable of award-winning chefs, celebrity chefs one could argue, who would actually be at the stoves every night? No other hotel in the city can make the same claim-another example of how the Wynn doesn’t settle for the status quo when it comes to Las Vegas dining. Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn- The Patio at Boulud Brasserie overlooking the waterfall and green forest gardens of the courtyard- Barbara Fairchild, Executive Editor of Bon Appetit, opened the lunch by introducting Chef Boulud and representatives from the Andrew Murray Vineyards of Los Olivos, California, (Santa Ynez Valley), the hosts of the wines that would be served with lunch. Chef Boulud and Barbara Fairchild- One point to consider is that Bon Appetit is more than merely a magazine about home-cooking. As Chef Boulud so duly noted, Bon Appetit is a tireless supporter of Chefs and dining in America-along with encouraging all of us to be better cooks at home. Chef Daniel spoke to the fact that he is the exception to the rule of being a “chef in residence” at Wynn. Chef Boulud was quick to caution that he absolutely did not want to enter into a venture where he would fall into the normal trap of only visiting the kitchen two or three times a year. He is a perfectionist, a craftsman who must be involved in the creation of the food. He is not one to stand from afar while others who are employed by a large corporation in Las Vegas put his food on the plates. Chef Boulud said that it was only after careful discussions with Steve Wynn that he was assured that he would have the freedom, creativity and oversight that he required that he then agreed to open at Wynn. In his own words, Chef Boulud said he “wanted to bring the quality and soul of what I do to Las Vegas, but in a style that was very approachable and accessible. (To the people who visit Las Vegas). So I chose to create a ‘Brasserie.’ In France ‘Brasseries’ are known for being convivial and casual, but they can still be very grand. I think Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn Las Vegas has just the right balance; everything delicious but nothing pretentious.” Well said Chef. Chef Daniel is every bit the friendly, gregarious soul you see hosting those delicious parties on his new television show-“After Hours with Daniel” on Mojo HDTV. He was a gracious host, and while Chef Boulud’s presence lent an element of “celebrity” to the afternoon, I don’t believe for a moment that he was merely there to pass out a few handshakes and scribble out a couple of autographs. No, Chef Boulud was absolutely one of the most personable and humble Chefs that I’ve ever met-and that’s not always the case when one greets a “celebrity Chef.” It was obvious that Chef Daniel was excited and proud to share his cuisine and the talents of his Las Vegas staff with our private group. He wasn’t handed a script from a PR Assistant standing to the side-he knew every detail about where the Asparagus and the Morels were grown, the ponds in Louisiana where the Crayfish were netted and the “sous-vide” technique used to cook the Veal Cheek. Many of the Chefs who work in the Las Vegas restaurant began their careers with Chef Boulud in New York. They looked so young to me that I imagined they all started cooking when they were children! Chef Boulud explained that one of the Chefs in Las Vegas will soon be off to China when He opens his new restaurant in Bejing. Chef Boulud with his family of Chefs in Las Vegas- I find it quite difficult to sift through the fodder of a menu description of a dish that goes on and on and on like “Skillet-Roasted 30 Day Dry Aged Naturally Grass-Fed Angus Strip Loin Basted with Pan Juices and, and, and.” It’s exhausting. I would much rather have a personal conversation with an informed server as to how the steak was prepared-that’s the type of service and custom I found at Boulud. I love it when a Chef and his assistants are confident enough in their talents that they take the time to converse with their customers and tell us the main elements of each dish. As you scroll through the photos, I think you’ll find that the theme to the luncheon was “Spring.” Enjoy. “Quail Ballotine with Apricots and Pistachios”- “2007 Sanglier Rose”- The fun part of dining with Boulud was found in the “surprises” not listed on the menu-the surprises only uncovered after the smiling Chef presented each dish-how the Ballotine was prepared, (the Quail meat was studded with Foie Gras and Morels and wrapped in Puff Pastry) and how the Apricots were cut (in thick strips to intensify the fruit flavor on the palate). “Crayfish Fricassee with Morel Royale, Fiddlehead Ferns and Ramps”- “2006 Viognier”- Another simple menu description that upon service to the table showed there were more suprises in store. This dish could have been listed as “Spring in America.” The Morels were from forests in Oregon-and they were stuffed with a “Royale” custard of vegetables. The Morel is sitting on a pillow of “Chicken Liver Croustade.” The Fiddleheads and Ramps came from Pennsylvania, the Crayfish from Louisiana. The seafood and vegetables were garnished with a buttery “Sauce Americaine,” made from lobster and crayfish shells. “Almond-Crusted John Dory with Asparagus Prepared Three Ways”- “2006 Grenache”- I was pleased to find that the “green” asparagus in this dish came from a farm that is a short drive from my home in Eastern Washington-delightful to know that our beautiful produce would be enjoyed by customers in Las Vegas. The asparagus was prepared three ways; deep-fried in a “White Asparagus Beignet,” lightly blanched “Spears,” and a cold asparagus “Salad.” The earthy notes of the asparagus were accented by fresh Fava Beans and Fava Bean Puree. “Veal Blanquette “Printaniere,” Roasted Loin, Spring Herbs and Radishes”- “2005 Syrah, ‘Roasted Slope’ Vineyards”- The Veal in the meat course came from an organic farm in Pennsylvannia. Chef Boulud did not strictly follow the guidelines for a classic stew of “Veal Blanquette.” (Another surprise not listed on the menu). The “Blanquette” or “stew” element of the dish came in the form of Veal Cheeks slowly cooked “sous-vide” and seasoned with fresh Savory leaves. One gets chills remembering how wonderfully tender and moist it was. The Veal Loin was roasted and served with pan “jus” and fresh Spring Peas. I must apologize to you though-the ingredient I had been craving in Las Vegas, yet hadn’t found, was a “garnish” on the Veal dish-“Crispy Sweetbreads” that had been dusted with flour and sautéed in butter. The “third” treatment of the Veal and the most delicious. We were served two desserts. The first, (I failed to get a photo), was a dish that Chef Boulud and his Pastry Chef had literally created an hour before lunch began. Chef Boulud was concerned that we needed something light and with a hint of citrus to cut through the rich flavors of the Veal before launching into our Chocolate dessert. I know I would never be capable of preparing “Mango Soup with Pineapple Sorbet and Toasted Coconut” in an hour! “Chocolate-Cappucino Tart with Caramel-Cardamom Ice Cream”-2005 Late Harvest Riesling”- Have you ever caught yourself in the “moment?” You know you are experiencing a meal that is something more, something just a bit better, something memorable. You know you are in the “moment.” The flavors are more intense, more unique-the “Cappucino” in the Chocolate, the spice of the “Cardamom” in the Caramel Ice Cream, the sweet syrup of the floral “Late Harvest Riesling.” And then you take a moment to reflect about how this little garnish, (“gold”), on top of a round of chocolate cake says “Las Vegas.” I’ll end my report about Las Vegas with a few comments on something in demand in the desert-water, and some words about the future of this exciting dining destination.