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Posts
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Joined
Everything posted by Nicolai
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A Pierre Herme Ispahan
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Hummm, you got me there. But at least we have one refuge off Ken Church street: Pierre Marcolini Ahhh, les deux Pierres!
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For one reason or the other, Ladurée reminds me of GM crops v organic crops. All these beautiful Macarons look precisely the same in size and texture with a variant of colour. Simply is not real and can only be achieved with the help of your friendly German and Swiss equipment! This is mass production at it's best. When you bite into a macaron, although the crunch and texture is perfect but you have to work hard for the taste and their explanation is a one of "refined" taste as in humm where is it? Even the patisserie is line produced. The range is not original as it is the same old French repertoire with the Religieuse, Mont Blanc, and of course their botched Ispahan which was originally created by Pierre Hermé before quiting Ladurée to open his own pastry shop. Laduree has still to find a replacement and has a lot of catch up to do. I have been told that an Ispahan "buche de Noel" by Pierre Hermé is in the making. Now this is Xmas.
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This is the Laduree "Baiser" which is coconut and fruit based.
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Unfortunately no Ispahan today. They did not have any and the macarons look like out of a chain production line. But then again I hate Krispy Kreme and the whole Harrods thingy is overplayed. I'll take PG Sketch delightful offerings anytime.
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Two types: 1- Bavette d'aloyau - Also called palangre, fausse osseline in Bordeaux and Toulouse, primpied in Saint Etienne, épais flanchet in Lille and Bifteck Stuck vum Lappe in Alsace. Also called abroad: Flank steak Skirt, boneless Dicker Bauchlappen Redondo solomillo Carne di pancia Tira de lombo 2- Bavette de flanchet - Also faudil in Toulouse and flanchet d'aiguillette in Agen. The bavette à pot-au-feu is called aude in Bordeaux, flanc épais in Montreuil-sur-Mer and Luppefleich vum Lappe in Alsace. Also called abroad: Skirt steack Hose Redondo falda Bavetta Oculo de aba
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That is so true. You can learn the language, marry the bride and get the sommelier as Father-in-Law but you will always have gaps missing in your lessons. Whether it is how to "sabrer le Champagne" or the ceremonial of the "Fève des Rois" or the rules governing the eating of Asparagus or simply how to cut cheese, is a different world on it's own. Do you really want to go there? Or rather be yourself and learn along the way? This is how people differentiate each other all over the world with the "them" and "us". Wait until you are confronted with the Japanese politesse of serving "Sake" and then you will know that you are not part of the club.
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Rudeness exists eveywhere in the world. However there is a fine line between rudeness and acceptability. What is perceived rude by one person might not be what the intent of the other person is or was. You might think it is rude to have a French person mumbling to himself after getting some flack by a customer or you might think it is rude that an Italian gesticulates while talking or an American striking a conversation with a total stranger. It is a matter of perception and for example the usual water request by American people in France is sometimes scoffed at in certain establishments. I recall my mother asking for water as I was too young for wine and the MaitreD' came to inquire whether I was feeling bad??!?!! Water to the kid....unfathomable. It is the faux pas when you try to win one over and pretend what you are not that lands people in trouble (most of the time). If you know your subject matter and a very good command of your French e.g. to recite entire poems in French and discuss the latest misshap a L'Academie Francaise then indulge in the Michelin restaurant to your pleasure. However if you don't know the colour of your Cheval Blanc, then give it a rest and be yourself.
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Au contraire, I only have good experiences in French establishments apart the odd hick up. I was refering to my observation of American/French behaviour and interactions.
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Yes it is stereotype and Clichés, but no one wants to admit to it. The Americans are perceived as culturally deficient and the French as up turned Pompadours. The first moment you step in a top restaurant or establishment, you are immediately judged before you utter a single word. It is your style, clothes, demenure and shoes that say more about you than your verbal skills. Irrelevant of your nationality, you are subconsciously categorized by the Maitre d' or Sommelier or attendant. You are weighed as to whether you dignify the place or you are to be treated as a "tourist". If you are familiar with the French language then by all means indulge, but if you don't, either carry it with a big smile or stick to the original lingo and it will work wonders. However, avoid showing what you are not and be yourself. It is little things from holding the wine glass to cutting the bread (on rompt le pain). It is crossing feet under your chair to wearing the obnoxious university ring. It is scorching the French language for words like Lingerie or "amuses-bouches" while originally it is "amuses-gueules" which are supposed to be offered only in very particular situations and not part of a meal ad eternum. It is the tone of voice and the volume. It is the reverence of the place and most of all it is the "savoir-vivre" and it is France.
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And you thought that: - Negerzoenen - Negerküsse - Mohrenköpfe - Têtes de Nègre - Negerboller are not politically correct. LoL Try translate this one: Dickmanns This is the current favorite in Deutchland. Now how it got from Têtes de Nègre to Dickmanns is a 201 in Political Science!
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Ken is right in his posts. I am yet to see or taste an oil or salt or whatever which was able to capture the aroma of Truffles. Nevermind the above, but even truffles themselves come in different flavour and the same white truffle can be a gem or a whiff. I had dinner last week at this Italian restaurant with a special Alba truffle promotion week. As I am a regular guest at their restaurant, I like to indulge in off-menu dishes. The first day we had a simple salad of Palmito/asparagus and endives with an oil/balsamic dressing to prep the papilles followed by a simple plate of tagliatelle sauce blanche with white truffle shavings. The portions are apparently 7 gms or 12 gms and weighed on a spanky digital scale on a special trolley in front of the diners. I think they went overboard with my serving and the taste was heavenly. Washed with a small Vermentino di Gallura. On a following day and as I noticed that they are keeping the black and white truffles on a trolley under glass cover nestled on a bed of Arborio rice. I requested the restaurant Mngr to have a risotto prepared from couple of handfulls of the rice from the truffles bed and he gracefully obliged. So again a salad of artichokes/tomatoes/green beans with oil/balsamic followed by a Truffles risotto with truffles shavings. It was excellent and the only sad part is that the risotto was way too large portion to enable me finish. Washed with a Vernaccia di San Gimignano. I have to mention that this particular restaurant has a knack for trolleys and even the blooming olive oils and balsamic vinegar have their own trolley with dozens of different olive oils and aged balsamic vinegar. On the following day, I was invited to the Chef's table after closing hours and we sat there with the F&B Mngr, the Rest Mngr and the Chef for a feast of Truffles ranging from Omelettes to Ice cream! Washed with a Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and an Alto Adige. It was OTT. but the point is that each truffle was different in flavour from one other. As for truffle oil or salt. I think I'll pass and uh my gf does not like truffles.
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Baheu - Baheu. They don't do Intl shipments!
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Phoenix White Truffle Report
Nicolai replied to a topic in Southwest & Western States: Cooking & Baking
Such pictures should be banned.... Anyone got molto address. Map would be useful. Bring bandanas.... -
Mmmmm. I love Truffles of all kinds, white, black, summer, winter, smooth and grainy but mainly the desert truffle. As to the chinese stuff, apparently you can tell them apart not only by the scent but the pimples/dimples of the chinese ones are pointed/spiky while the Italin/French are more rounded! So a word of advise, carry your magnifier lens when shopping for fresh truffles.
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Originally I would have named distant cities but now I have it sorted. I will simply go where Markk goes!
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No eating when I drive. However when driven after clubbing, then it is usually a stop at around 04:00am at the local sandwich shop for a stuffing before hitting the mattress.
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Wait, another one in the making. Angela Hartnett had two plug-ins on the box this week and soon on your screen in full regalia!
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1- Pan, yes you are right. When Middle East cuisine is mentioned, the understanding is that it is the cuisine of the Levant. On the other hand, the cuisine of the Maghreb is specific to this part of the world. As for Paris, you are right again and there is a large community served with ME restaurants and Lebanese Chefs. 2- Behemoth, I am sure the restaurants you mentioned are very good in their own way. However I am sceptical as to the feasibility and practicality of identifying and approaching the Chefs that work in there. 3- The Chefs Office, As you already know the appointment of any kind of Chef is not simply getting a name and an address while flashing a contract but more to do with answering a specific client brief and job description. There are many pitfalls in getting a Levantine or Lebanese or Maghrebi Chef to that matter, I do not wish to go into a job description discussion but you state that you are looking for a chef who "can cook Middle Eastern Cuisine at the highest levels". As in what levels? Can we simplify your statement by saying that you need a versatile Chef to prepare a range of Meza ranging from Hummos to Chicken liver! of course passing by grilled meat - kebabs and the odd roasted lamb. Or do you want a maverick Chef to create new dishes presented a la Bulli.
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There seems to be a new TV program in the making as I bumped last week into Heston Blumenthal at lunch time in Katz's Deli in New York. He was accompanied with four cameras and all the paraphernalia and was having a lunch interview there. Hummm, let's see, so whats coming up on the menu: - Pastrami Ice Cream? - Corned Beef poached with peanut butter? - Salami Sorbet? Remember, you read it here first!
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This sounds like a very basic menu. Official state banquets are in fact a political statement and the offering should reflected this fact, more so if it is a royal official visit. In such cases the Chef not only is asked to create a menu but it is also preferable to create a special "celebratory" dish which hopefully will be picked up and duplicated in some restaurants.
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Ehem! the same finishing is applied to Spanish jamon though paprika is used BTW the sane basturma name in Georgia is applied to what in Russia are sashliks these are marinated and glazed with mix pomegranate molasses and the bbq ← Ehem, Ehem! - Similar finish is applied all over the world with different name but if you look close, you will see where the variation is. - Yes the same name Basturma is in Russia - Georgia...etc - However the original (if there is such a thing) is Armenian according to a set recipe. Change or alter the recipe and anything goes.
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Very nice verses. Thank you As for Romantic dinners. The following should be in place. 1- Proximity of partners at arm lenght. 2- Music at par with partners preferences. 3- Music volume at par with type of music. 4- Lighting should be indirect and soft. 5- Some motion should be present in the environment. 6- Food should not be the hero of the evening but mere playing second fiddle. 7- Romance should be true and should be humble. All interested, PM for address.
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The original Basturma is not Beef but Lamb and of Armenian origin. In both cases, it is a delectable air dried meat with a thick covering of Schaman which is the name for the red paste covering the chunk of meat. The base of the paste is Garlic and red hot peppers. How you cut it is with a heavy sharp knife as thin and carefull as possible. How you eat it is simply with flat buttered bread or just raw. Alternatively fry the Basturma with a small knob of butter in a pan and as soon as the flavours hits your nose throw in two sunyside up eggs and you are in for a very nice breakfast. Enjoy.