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Posts posted by Kim Shook
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The first thing that I have to do is to say thank you to everyone who answered my call for help regarding this trip – your contributions to the food, accommodations, dress, tipping, etc., etc. (both here and in PMs) helped make this trip the best we’ve ever been on. Also – to all you British folk: please don’t scoff at our food choices and opinions
. As I said in my NYC report, keep in mind that we are country mice and not accustomed to your local food. We probably just missed many good places and I’m sure that we enjoyed meals that would seem terribly ordinary to you. But enjoy them we did, so we were happy!
It’s taken me forever to get this report together – life intervened when we got home in the form of work, family health issues, possible home renovations. But, actually, perspective may not be a bad thing. I should also say that we truly didn’t have a bad meal throughout the entire trip (except for the predictably execrable pre-flight Applebee’s airport dinner). The ‘good restaurants’ (all recommended by eG’ers) were fantastic, not unexpectedly. But, more surprising, was how good the ‘ordinary’ meals and snacks and regular grocery store food was (not to mention a couple of desperation convenience store meals – more later re: that!).
Saturday, May 14th
One of our first stops in London, after dropping our bags at our friend’s flat was the astounding Fortnum and Masons. I could have wandered for HOURS (but didn’t want to incur the wrath of either Mr. Kim or our indulgent host) and spend thousands of pounds (Mr. Kim again). Gorgeous confections:
14-10K1 by ozisforme, on Flickr
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Beautiful meats, cheeses, dairy, produce, baked goods:
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Not to mention an amazing array of things to serve those beautiful things on or in, to cook them with and a great selection of cookbooks. I wished that we were going to be in London long enough to have a picnic just so that I could order one of their lovely hampers.
So many people recommended Ottolenghi, Sofra and Leon that I was anxious to try at least one of them and even carried everywhere a Google map that I’d made with each one of their locations pinpointed so that we could go if we were ever near one at lunch time or breakfast. Alas, we never seemed to be from what I saw. I was so sorry to have missed all three – I’d been drooling over the menus and photos and descriptions for weeks! We ended up at EAT for lunch the first day. I was expecting Panera and was so pleasantly surprised! EAT is a London based chain - sandwiches, soups, desserts, etc. MUCH more interesting than Panera - and it shouldn’t be – the sandwiches are Panera are made when you order them, at EAT; they are already made up in boxes on a refrigerated shelf. They have no business being as good as they are. No pictures because my friend, while understanding my obsession (he even reminded me to take pictures in the other places), thought that EAT was just too ordinary to take pictures of! We shared a very good hummus, avocado and harrissa sandwich and the best Cheddar cheese potato chips I’ve ever tasted.
More wandering and more food-centered sightseeing! Macarons really ARE the new cupcake – we saw them everywhere:
14-22k1 by ozisforme, on Flickr
I love the fact that English department stores still have food halls (maybe really big stores in the US still have them, but in Richmond and Washington, DC, they disappeared years ago). Lola’s cupcakes in Selfridge’s:
14-25m by ozisforme, on Flickr
See the price on the giant cupcake? £45 – that’s almost $72
!!! I am charging way too little for mine.
LOVED the ‘American’ aisle:
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Crisco, Kraft Mac and Cheese, JIF, Marshmallow Fluff, Karo, and even Shake n Bake!
The three of us had dinner that night at the beautiful and dramatic looking Quo Vadis (thank you, thank you nikkib!):
14-27m1 by ozisforme, on Flickr
Our friend, Craig, started with the Sea Bass Ceviche:
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This was lovely – perfect texture and perfectly seasoned. The avocados suited the fish so well.
Mr. Kim started with asparagus and a poached Bantam egg:
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He really loved this (not a fan of asparagus, so I couldn’t say). Another shot:
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This picture illustrates something that I noticed during our entire trip. We ate a LOT of eggs and every single one was perfectly cooked (for us) – nice firm whites (no snot, Maggie!) and unctuous, oozy yolks. I guess everyone in England likes eggs the same way that we do!
My main was Braised Ox Cheeks and mashed potatoes:
14-38m by ozisforme, on Flickr
Again – just a perfect rendition. They were tender, but substantial and the sauce was winey and beefy all at once. I didn’t come near to finishing this – who knew oxen were so cheeky?
Craig’s main was Spotted Ray with Capers, Browned Butter and Curly Kale:
14-40m by ozisforme, on Flickr
I have a question here. I don’t think I’ve ever had spotted ray, but I assume that it is basically like skate, which I have eaten. The flavor was marvelous, but it was very spiny. We discovered that we could actually eat the cartilage, but it was a bit disconcerting and we weren’t sure if we were really supposed to.
Mr. Kim’s main was the hit of the evening (maybe the trip) for him:
14-39m by ozisforme, on Flickr
Line Caught John Dory w/ Braised Fennel. He said it was the best fish he’d ever eaten in his life and he’d eat it all the time, if it was available. Understand that Mr. Kim is fairly new to the fish world. When I met him, his experience with eating fish was mostly limited to tunafish out of a can and Friday fishsticks. He’s slowly become more of a fish eater, but he likes it occasionally rather than on a regular basis. So this reaction says a LOT about that delicious dish!
We all shared three different ‘afters’. Bitter Chocolate Crunch:
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A gorgeous little square drenched in glossy dark chocolate and topped with a wisp of gold leaf. Inside was more dark chocolate mousse on a crisp crust:
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Cheese plate:
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Bath Soft, Stinking Bishop, Tovey, Perl Las and Montgomery Cheddar. Just lovely – I could have made an entire meal of only this!
Home Made Petit Fours:
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A tuille, a macaron, a meringue and various candied fruit paste (I can’t remember what the little crackly topped bite at the back was). Lovely and light and the perfect end to the meal.
Another perplexing thing at the end of the meal was this:
14-42m by ozisforme, on Flickr
eXpresso. That pronunciation of espresso has always sent shivers down my spine (like ‘marscapone’ does) and considered that only the likes of Sandra Lee pronounced it like that. I think it even crops up sometimes in the various eG ‘pet peeve’ threads. But I think that I recently heard Mario Batali say ‘eXpresso’ and here it is on a very reputable restaurant’s menu. Have I been ignorant and arrogant without cause?
Sunday, May 15th
Breakfast the next morning was a Tesco express chocolate croissant (yeah, I know, but it was Sunday, I was hungry and we were hurrying to a Matins service at St. Paul – and it was pretty good, too, as grocery pastry goes).
We had a pre-British Museum lunch at Pret a Manger nearby. Pret yet another London chain that is much, much better than it should be, considering that the sandwiches aren’t made as you order them. I had the Wiltshire Ham and Greve cheese baguette and it was VERY good (can’t remember what Craig and Mr. Kim had and still no pictures).
Dinner this night was at The Wolseley in St. James. The building was built in 1921 and is gorgeous inside and out. I liked the Wolseley even better than Quo Vadis (thanks for this recommendation go to PoppySeedBagel and patrickamory) – though Mr. Kim was still think about that John Dory! About a week later, Ms. Hillary Clinton dined there with the British Foreign Secretary, so eGer’s really know where to go, huh? I suspect that this is the main reason that I loved it so much:
15-197m by ozisforme, on Flickr
That is a Croustade of Quail Eggs w. Hollandaise. Is that the cutest thing you’ve ever seen or WHAT? The pastry was crisp and buttery. The eggs were poached absolutely perfectly and the hollandaise was smooth and thick and delectable! Honest to God, if I’d been in a diner, I would have requested a yeast roll to sop up every atom of the eggy-saucy goodness at the end!
Craig’s starter was Avocado Vinaigrette:
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Beautiful, smooth and creamy avocados.
Mr. Kim’s starter was another of his favorite dishes of the trip – and another fish:
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Servern and Wye Smoked Salmon w. Buttered Soda Bread. Possibly the very best smoked salmon I’ve ever eaten. And the bread was great, too.
My main was something that I knew I would have to have at least once in England, and it was Sunday evening, so it seemed appropriate:
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Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding and Roast Potatoes (pay no attention to those green things in the corner – they were CRUNCHY – bah – and weren’t Brussels sprouts, so I didn’t give them the time of day). Gorgeous and delicious. I’d give anything to be able to make a Yorkshire pud like that!
Craig’s main was Seared Mackerel w. Celeriac Remoulade:
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I’ve never cared much for mackerel, but this was very good and the remoulade was exceptional.
Mr. Kim’s main was Steak Frite:
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Here, I’m afraid, his inner American came to the fore. He said it tasted good, but was awfully small.
I was the only one who ordered dessert:
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Strawberry Tart. It was very good – lovely strawberries and a super crisp crust. I ended up sharing.
Monday, May 16th
Craig’s flat is near Hyde Park, so on the way to Paddington Station, we stopped at a little place called The Chelsea Deli for breakfast. Since it was my first real breakfast in England, I knew that bacon was in order. I had a bacon butty:
16-1k1 by ozisforme, on Flickr
Mr. Kim opted to add eggs:
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For those that don’t know about English bacon – just look at that! Lean and gorgeous! They call American-style bacon ‘streaky bacon’ and I have no idea what they do with it, because I never saw a slice. I was accustomed to it, because my English Nanny used to smuggle it into the US years ago when she visited. Half of her suitcase would be filled with Cadbury chocolate (impossible to find in the US in those days) and this amazing bacon. Mr. Kim hadn’t ever had it before and was in heaven. The texture is very like ham, but the flavor is much more complex – somewhere between ham and bacon.
Thus fortified, we set out for our day – Westminster Abbey, a double decker bus tour (I thought it might be hokey, but it was actually wonderful sitting back and letting someone else drive and park and all – if we’d had more time, I would rather see everything on our own, but 2 1/2 days is a very short time), a short Thames cruise, St. James Park, etc. Lunch, was unfortunately coach station snack shop sandwiches and a Cadbury bar, necessitated by us lingering at the Abbey (no pictures, but not bad, actually).
We walked from Buckingham Palace to the one and only fish and chips place that was recommended by Harters. Master’s Super Fish is way out Waterloo Road (my navigation skills made it farther than it actually WAS) and I could tell that Mr. Kim wondered where the hell we were going. We were rewarded finally:
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We ate lots of great food on our trip and I was very careful to get recommendations for the high-end restaurants that we went to, but I think that I was most excited about my first real English fish and chips. I have to thank you, Harters, for recommending Master’s. It was a wonderful meal. We sat down and ordered and then they rather startled us with this:
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An amuse? In a chippie? Did this bode well? Had Master’s gone all upscale on us since Harters’ last visit? Nope. The delivery of our fish settled that matter. I had plaice for the first time since I was a little girl at the Mucky Duck in Santa Monica, California (and that was probably American plaice) and had forgotten what a lovely, light tasting fish it is. I was swooning over my gorgeous fish, proper chips and big, crunchy pickled onion, all doused with vinegar:
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Mr. Kim chose cod and it was lovely, too:
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Bite:
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Two and a half days in England so far. Eight more to go and then two and a half more in Paris. I’ve got lots more to report, but I thought I’d break it up to make it more manageable.
I have begun blogging our trip. If you would like a fuller, but less food-centric report, it starts here.
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kayb – well, it may be weird, but your potato salad sounds good to me. I’m not a big fan of potato salad usually, but I want to try yours! Thanks for the information! And I want some more, please, ma’am. Please, please tell me what recipe you use for bacon jam??? I gotta have some of this stuff. It’s haunting me.
Jan – that is a delicious looking and beautiful onglet! I’d like to just dive into that sauce!
Scotty – (cue Homer Simpson voice) mmmmm, crispy pig skin. Also lovely dumplings and potstickers! And stuffed fried squash blossoms!
suzi – I gotta ask…what are ‘eggy potatoes’? I’m intrigued.
Emily – leftover Morney
…lucky YOU!
Norm – I’m drooling over that smoked salmon! What gorgeous color.
MsDivinaLoca – great, great fish skin idea!
dcarch – I may have to try sous vide after all, just to get that pork. The idea of making moist, tender char sui at home is very, very attractive. Mine tastes good, but is, alas, a tad dry
.
We spent this weekend at Ocean City MD. This is the beach that I grew up going to. It is the quintessential ticky-tacky beach town. Junk food, souvenir shops, long boardwalk, rides, pier, etc. Great for people watching and eating. We stopped on the way home at a farmstand. Maryland has so many of these – we passed dozens on the way home and as soon as we crossed the Potomac River into VA, they just stopped. We got some lovely cantaloupe and just-picked blackberries and some corn. We had the corn with dinner last night and we a little disappointed. It tasted good, but was a little mushy. The corn that we had on the boardwalk was fantastic – sweet and with a pop when you bit into it. We had some tomatoes from our local farmstand, so I made BLT’s with cheese:
Corn and marinated cukes:
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Sign of a "bad" cook? A person who doesn't give a crap about what they're eating, only eats food for nutrition value, never for enjoyment. Someone who just doesn't care about food isn't going to be motivated to improve their basic cooking skills, or be able tell if the stuff they churn out tastes good or bad.
All the other stuff - dull knives, old spices, pre-made condiments, bare fridge - are perhaps marks of a lazy cook or someone who doesn't cook much. My cousin has a naked fridge with nothing but few bottles of wine, and she is quite a good cook. I have Classico pasta sauce, bottled lemon juice and a non-stick pan that has seen better days - but I think I am far from being a sucky cook.
That's probably one of the few responses so far that I can agree with.
Ditto.
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Peter – thrilled to see you blogging!! I have cousins who retired to New Horton NB and was an Anne of Green Gables girl, so I am dying to visit your part of the world. I loved the cake topper (we are BIG Wallace & Gromit fans here, too).
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Bottled salad dressing. Check. (sometimes I make my own, other times I don’t)
Melamine plates. Almost every meal I ate as a child summering in NC was eaten off these. At the homes of phenomenal cooks.
Only little teeny serrated plastic handled knives. Nothing over 5". My grandmother cut every single thing holding it in her hand using a paring knife. Again, a phenomenal cook.
Instant coffee. Check. I don’t drink coffee and Mr. Kim doesn’t always want to make a pot in the morning.
Reconstituted lemon juice. Check. (again, sometimes I use fresh, other times I don’t)
Wow. I must be some lousy cook.
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percyn – gorgeous burgers! Of course, I especially like the ‘Spanglish burger’!
kayb – Love that BBQ plate! Can you tell me about the potato salad? It looks really different. And that cream cheese pie is beautiful!
Dinner tonight was some easy chicken enchiladas made creamy with cream cheese and canned enchilada sauce:
Plated with black beans and corn and rice with salsa:
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Blether – I just realized I had never thanked you for the Konbu ponzu explanation
! We had already left for our trip when you posted your response and I don’t think I’ve been back to this thread since! Anyway, thank you – sounds like a wonderful ingredient!
robirdstx – I love reading about eG’ers meeting in real life and sharing what we are all about! We have some decent food trucks in Richmond, but nothing on that scale!
Soba – gorgeous! Please tell me that just out of the shot was some crusty bread to sop up all that loveliness with! Or is that too ‘carbi’ for you
?
Since today is mostly devoted to blogging, lunch was just a snack spread out on the island:
Fruit and cheese – good peaches from the farm stand, goats milk Gouda and Seaside Cheddar from WF.
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Soba – beautiful tomato salad and I really like the idea of serving it atop toast. Kinda like a breakfast panzanella.
robirdstx – sounds like a GREAT breakfast and I love chicken and avocado together.
Breakfast this morning was a little freezer-organizing produced bit of serendipity:
Some of my MIL’s Hot Cross Buns from Easter. They were still delicious and tender.
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I am so much enjoying your blog. My BIL lives in AZ and spends lots of time in San Diego and just raves about everything there. He's not much into food (he seems to live on oddly colored smoothies), so I'm thrilled to get THAT aspect of the area! Everything you are making and buying looks incredible and please tell your husband that he's a wonderful photographer.
Happy Anniversary!
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Christine – Hey! Nice to ‘see’ you! Thanks for the compliment – it was a really good dinner and made me wonder why I don’t do main course salads more often.
RRO – gorgeous bacon and that risotto sounds fantastic. I’ll have to nose around our Little Asia section of town and see if I can find some Chinese bacon. And the combination of jambon and fish? Genius!
Dcarch – I actually made those little picks myself. Just beads and turkey skewers. Beautiful steak – you can actually SEE how tender it is.
Kayb – lovely pie – it’s breakfast time, but I’d love a slice right now.
Dejah – the lamb moussaka sounds delicious and I’m so jealous of the beautiful color you got on the top. Mine never gets that gorgeous browning.
Bruce – the pulled pork looks stellar!
Dinner last night started with a little shrimp cocktail:
And salad (sigh):
Steak with bleu cheese and port sauce, yellow squash and crusty bread with artichoke/spinach dip:
The bread:
This is one of my favorite things to do. The topping is just a basic artichoke or artichoke/spinach dip spread – you spread it on the bread and then broil it. It is a little more substantial than regular garlic bread and works well as a party snack, too.
We also had some gorgeous corn that we got at the farm stand in the afternoon, shucked right before cooking and briefly cooked:
Garrison Keillor made us do it. We were listening to A Prairie Home Companion while running errands and he started talking about those 5 or 10 ears of piping hot, just picked sweet corn, slathered with butter and salted that he was going to eat for dinner. We didn’t even need to discuss it – we just drove to the farm stand!
Almost everything was stuff that was in the fridge. We are trying to finish up as much refrigerator stuff as possible in the next couple of days to prepare for a new addition to our family.
I am very excited!
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RRO – Except for the mushrooms, that sounds incredible to me! Is it served hot or cold?
I dreamed this up for breakfast this morning:
Breakfast bruschetta – toasted French bread slices, tomato jam and bacon. This is a keeper – definitely worth doing again and again.
Served with poached eggs:
Probably a little overdone for some folks, but perfect for us.
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percyn – yay! Then my instincts were right!
Last night we had my in-laws over for dinner and to look at the last of the trip pictures (we only got through England last time). Since it was a week night and really HOT, I wanted something easy, that I didn’t have to heat the kitchen up for and that I could mainly prep the night before. I decided on chef salads. We hadn’t had that in forever and everyone likes it around here.
Basic salad – lettuce greens, scallions, tomatoes, cukes, carrots and radishes:
American cheese, ham, Swiss cheese, salami and eggs:
The pickle-y stuff – sweet and dill pickles, green and black olives and peperoncini:
Topped with a choice of Marlene’s bleu cheese or my dad’s paprika dressing. I also served crackers and crusty bread.
Dessert was just nectarines and blueberries (you do NOT want to know what that sugar free abomination is on top – I picked it up on the way home – I was just too tired to whip cream!
). Served with some cookies (the same kind, which, oddly enough turned up in one of our Paris pictures!):
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Oh, Laurie, that BBQ looks excellent! Maybe we'll have to make a detour next time we come to NC! And those fries are excellent. I don't think I've ever been to a BBQ place that has anything other than frozen.
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Soba - It must be rainbow trout season! Dianne on CK just had it, too. I love it and haven't ever cooked it.
Panaderia Canadiense - thanks for the explanation. 120 degrees in the summer
? Goodness, I start cranking the air conditioner at 77! I don't think I'd cook at ALL if I had to deal with those temperatures! That tilapia is gorgeous and makes me want to delve into the leaves thread!
Emily - you DID tell me about reheating - Mr. Kim tested that the next day for lunch and said they were still great.
Paul - great looking pizza! I'm committed to chef salads tonight, but I'm craving pizza now.
percyn - I know that is a very upscale meal, but something about that quail makes me wish I could pick it up and eat it with my bare hands. It just looks so GOOD!
robirdstx - grilled onions on the fajita look so good. Actually, I could do without that (great looking) chicken, if I could have a big pile of the onions
!
RRO - That's just amazingly beautiful and tender looking beef. Wow.
Ben - That dressing is the one in this recipe
Mr. Kim cooked last night while I did prep for tonight (we're having my in-laws over for dinner and picture viewing). He made bacon cheeseburgers and we also had sliced tomatoes and marinated cucumbers. He wouldn't let me take a picture because he said it was too 'ordinary'. I told him there was nothing ordinary about a bacon cheeseburger.
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Panaderia Canadiense – I’m confused – I was wondering about your weather, so I looked at weather.com and saw that the temperature there was 68 degrees. That doesn’t sound like winter to me. Am I wrong about where you are? Well, no matter. Whatever the weather, that soup and bread look fantastic!
robirdstx – I just finished dinner and I really, really want a Po Boy.
kayb - Here's the link to the recipe on my webpage. They were so good – I really appreciate Emily linking to the original recipe. They will definitely go into our summer rotation! And I have one of those meat-focused 50-somethings that robirdstx mentions, too
!
Tonight we started with some nibbles:
Yodeling Goat Gouda (really, really good) and everything flatbread
Lamb chops, leftover fried green tomatoes, sweet potato slices brûlée and green beans. Everything but the beans is the same color
.
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Breakfast was the "go to" of my childhood for a quick snack, on the road breakfast, or afternoon snack for the farmers at the country store..... "NABS" and a soda. In this case a Diet Mountain Dew (I'm looking at you Shelby)
Oh, yeah! Nabs and a tab - the 'diet' lunch of my teen years!
We actually took a box of Nabs to England with us on our trip last month. Just in case!
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Panaderia Canadiense - that chicken and gravy meal is gorgeous! As hot as it is here, I'd love it for dinner tonight!
robirdstx - uncooperative cheese makes for GOOD enchiladas
! And I LOVE the look of that pizza crust - exactly how I like it!
percyn - I love those tomatoes and rarely find them here. And that teriyaki salmon is just incredibly gorgeous!
kayb - I agree with Heidi - the pork looks like a sidedish with all those gorgeous vegetables!
Dinner last night started with a salad:
I tried a new recipe - the shrimp cakes that Emily made. We really, really liked these a lot. The cakes are served with a sauce that includes sour cream, lime juice and Thai chile garlic sauce - too hot for me, but Mr. Kim LOVED it! Jess and I made do with some cocktail sauce:
served with yellow squash and onions and first of the season fried green tomatoes
.
Marinated cukes and leftover ham and cheese biscuits from breakfast:
BITE:
So good!!
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Hi, Laurie - I'm very excited about your blog! I grew up spending every summer of my life at my grandparents' farm in Reidsville (just west of Greensboro) and still visit my grandmother there and my mom and stepdad live in New Bern, so I come close to you often. Can't wait to see pictures and hear stories!
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Never use butter - I honestly can't taste the difference without it and don't need the extra calories (I also don't butter toast if I'm going to use jam). Real maple syrup. Toast dope, if I have some.
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Cheese biscuits with bacon jam. No photo.
You.are.killing.me.
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Well, it depends - did he lean over within an inch of the food, wave his hands in the air like a big, giant TOOL and sniff so hard the the food lifted off the plate?
Sounds like NOT. I do sniff, but find that a discreet inhale of my fork when I lift the first bite to my mouth is sufficient.
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Thank you everyone for your extravagant compliments.
The mold for the Jello was made by me.
I found a plaque with that floral pattern. I thought it could make a wonderful mold for the kitchen.
I got some food-grade silicone rubber compound and cast the mold.
dcarch
OK, now you're just taunting me, aren't you. Sheesh.
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percyn – nice ‘pizza’ – I will have to remember the naan trick!
For breakfast this morning, I took a shortcut and made Bisquick ham and cheese biscuits:
They were actually pretty good and lighter than the from-scratch ones that I made the other night for my strawberry shortcake
!
Scrambled eggs, biscuits and we finished up the last of the gacky turkey bacon. I lie, actually – we didn’t finish it - after breakfast, we tossed the rest of it. It is really awful.
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Ben – I think that I could have made a meal of a double portion of the Hors d'oeuvres assortment at Paris 1906 – just gorgeous! And it’s funny that turtle is such a polarized ingredient – you’ll find it only at truly high-end restaurants or divine dumps near the shore!
England Trip Report
in United Kingdom & Ireland: Dining
Posted
Well, I called it 'cartilege' because I wasn't sure what it actually was - but it was hard and long and thin like a bone. But we could crunch and eat it. And to repeat myself - it was some of the most delicious stuff I've ever eaten.
More is coming - unfortunately, idiocies like work and laundry and errands get in the way, but I'll be posting soon, I promise!