Michael Laiskonis

It's not until you try to remove the sugar from tuile formulas that you find just how necessary it is! You might find success by using a potato base, adding egg white, fat, a little flour and a touch of sugar (and then of course flavorings such as herbs or spices). It has been a while since I've played with it, so I can't offer much in the way of a specific recipe, but nailing it with a little experimentation is cheap and simple. baker, how exactly did you "adapt" your recipe? Was the original a basic equal parts sugar/flour and fat/egg white?

To be completely honest, though I have an open mind, I don't have much use for artificial sweeteners, so it has never come up before. Perhaps a bit of research and label reading of any commercial low sugar products will yield some answers... I never paid close attention when it was released, but isn't one of the selling points of Splenda its equal volume replacement with sugar?

Fish, I'll answer your PM here... While I was on the sidelines, merely milling around, wiping the occasional plate, waiting to do my own course, one of our sous chefs (among the pot rockers) confirms that the reduction was "almost a syrup", of which they began with maybe three or four quarts, to which, in total eight to ten pounds of butter was added. When I asked what particular wine or port was used, he said that the reduction was made ahead at Le Bernardin and shipped with the rest of the mise en place. For this dinner, I believe the sauce was used with red snapper and mushrooms (which ones I don't recall).

This is something that professionals are aware of, and typically refer to as dry extract. Pastry chefs and ice cream manufacturers base their formulas on a target percentage of dry extract, usually in the range of 30-35% of the total weight. To acheive this, and balance out the sweetness, they will use ingredients like powdered glucose and dextrose (half the sweetness of sucrose) and dry nonfat milk, among other things. These kinds of additives work quite differently than what we tend to call stabilizers- gums, pectin, or the gelatin already suggested. These are used in minute quantities and act more as emulsifiers. Colloidal suspension is something that most of us don't need to worry about, at least when producing ice cream at home. But boosting the dry extract of our ice cream and sorbet bases is easy and will provide immediate and tangible results in texture and freezing point.

I recently had the opportunity to witness Eric finishing this sauce, though on a grand scale- enough for 120 portions. I didn't get a true sense for the ratio of butter used for the couple quarts or so of reduction, though the process was at once beautiful and somewhat amusing. Mounted a la minute, of course, it required the hands of five or so cooks, Eric and Coco (his chef de cuisine) included. Imagine a bunch of grown men, red faced and sweating, rythmically rocking large saucepans on the hot flat top, the silence pierced only with cries of, "Now. More butter." Nice sauce.

As this is on the New York board... For those chefs and restaurants outside of New York, arguably the nerve center of both the media at large, and the food media in particular, how important is it to have their representation based in the city? Coming from anywhere else in the country, breaking into that epicenter can be challenging. Is the greater proximity and access a benefit? Does this just reinforce, with a few notable exceptions, that "if it ain't happenin' in NY it ain't worth noticing?" What is the general nature and "culture" of the NY press and PR relationship? Can the same relationship exist with PR firms out in "the sticks"?

At the end of the day, I like to refer to my favorite Marco Pierre White quote... "...we're all commis, we're all still learning." To me, "paying your dues" simply means you've earned the right to bitch and moan. edited to add... I was initially going to let this one slide, but... So, even though I work with food 10-12 hours a day, plate up every service (and scrub down), hire/fire/schedule/supervise/train staff, order product, count inventory, write 100% of my menu, and previously held down line cook and sous chef positions... do I still have to change my business cards to read, Most Surely Not a Pastry Chef? Just askin'.

I never saw it, but someone who is working on a site for me did say the JG site was down, after researching various other sites. And I never got a chance to closely peruse Johnny's menu, as I was doing my own work in his kitchen, but did catch a glimpse of a lot of the components that went into the desserts...

I just spent two days in the kitchen of pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini at Jean Georges; a great choice, that is, if you haven't already embarked on this outing, Erin. Johnny has an amazing resume, having spent a number of years in the Boulud camp under Payard, Haas, etc. and his own style is well developed now at Jean Georges. I believe all of the desserts at JG are multi-component tastings, while Nougatine, also under his direction, offers a more traditional, casual a la carte selection.

Yuzu Custard Tart I've been doing a free form yuzu curd tart for some time. Yuzu is a citrus fruit of Japanese origin, found often in savory cooking (sashimi dishes and nuevo/fusion ceviche, for instance), and with an exotic, aromatic flavor that I've come to describe as a marriage of apricot and lime. The fresh fruit is difficult to find, and quite expensive. We source a bottled juice that is really nice, unlike most bottled lemon and lime juices I've tasted. The curd is produced in the classic proportion and conventional manner, the acidity of the yuzu softened with a bit of orange juice. I, however, prefer to emulsify the butter after cooking the base, which will provide a smoother, creamier texture and allow the sweet flavor of the butter to come through. For the "tart" described below, the curd is fortified with gelatin, then cooled and lightened with whipped cream. This is set into ring molds with a sablée breton base, then sprayed with white chocolate with the addition of subtle pink and orange accents. On the menu, it is plated with a muscat-ginger caramel, kumquat confit, and a tangerine/clementine sorbet with a 'creamy' mouthfeel due to the addition of milk powder 4 whole eggs 340 g granulated sugar 120 g yuzu juice 50 g orange juice zest of two lemons zest of two oranges 6 g sheet gelatin 20 g water 170 g unsalted butter, softened 160 g heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks 1. In a heavy, non reactive saucepan, whisk together eggs and sugar, then add yuzu and orange juices, along with zest. 2. On medium heat, bring mixture to a boil, stirring constantly, as it will easily scorch on the bottom. Bloom gelatin in water. 3. When mixture boils and is quite thick, remove from heat and add gelatin. Allow to cool briefly and emulsify the butter into the yuzu custard in small amounts. Strain through a chinois and gently chill in an ice water bath. 4. Once cooled but not yet set, fold into whipped cream and portion into tart rings, set onto an acetate lined sheet pan. Top each tart with a 55mm disk of sablée breton. Freeze. 5. Invert and unmold tarts and spray with white chocolate, followed by light accents of pink and orange. Return to freezer. Allow to temper under refrigeration for one hour prior to serving. Keywords: Dessert, Tart ( RG536 )

I've been doing a free form yuzu curd tart for some time. Yuzu is a citrus fruit of Japanese origin, found often in savory cooking (sashimi dishes and nuevo/fusion ceviche, for instance), and with an exotic, aromatic flavor that I've come to describe as a marriage of apricot and lime. The fresh fruit is difficult to find, and quite expensive. We source a bottled juice that is really nice, unlike most bottled lemon and lime juices I've tasted. The curd is produced in the classic proportion and conventional manner, the acidity of the yuzu softened with a bit of orange juice. I, however, prefer to emulsify the butter after cooking the base, which will provide a smoother, creamier texture and allow the sweet flavor of the butter to come through. For the "tart" described below, the curd is fortified with gelatin, then cooled and lightened with whipped cream. This is set into ring molds with a sablée breton base, then sprayed with white chocolate with the addition of subtle pink and orange accents. On the menu, it is plated with a muscat-ginger caramel, kumquat confit, and a tangerine/clementine sorbet with a 'creamy' mouthfeel due to the addition of milk powder... Yuzu Custard Tart YIELD: approx. 25 60mm tart rings 4 whole eggs 340g granulated sugar 120g yuzu juice 50g orange juice zest of two lemons zest of two oranges 6g sheet gelatin 20g water 170g unsalted butter, softened 160g heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks 1. In a heavy, non reactive saucepan, whisk together eggs and sugar, then add yuzu and orange juices, along with zest. 2. On medium heat, bring mixture to a boil, stirring constantly, as it will easily scorch on the bottom. Bloom gelatin in water. 3. When mixture boils and is quite thick, remove from heat and add gelatin. Allow to cool briefly and emulsify the butter into the yuzu custard in small amounts. Strain through a chinois and gently chill in an ice water bath. 4. Once cooled but not yet set, fold into whipped cream and portion into tart rings, set onto an acetate lined sheet pan. Top each tart with a 55mm disk of sablée breton. Freeze. 5. Invert and unmold tarts and spray with white chocolate, followed by light accents of pink and orange. Return to freezer. Allow to temper under refrigeration for one hour prior to serving.

I'm so glad you mentioned that Steve. I did a four course dessert tasting at Fleur de Sel (after a hefty lunch at Nobu to boot) last month. I didn't get a chance to meet Yvan, though Cryril Renaud, the chef/owner was a most gracious and generous host. All of the desserts were simple, to the point, but extremely delicate, elegant, and, I believe, all of them contained fleur de sel... I would also highly recommend the work of Patrick Coston, pastry chef at Ilo. Desserts at Blue Hill, after two visits, never matched the delicacy of the savory courses, in my opinion, though I'm happy to hear of the addition of a new pastry chef. Is Remy Funfrock still at Café Boulud? I understood that he left to open the Florida outpost, but never heard news of his replacement... Me three.

Thursday June 12th is yet another preview hosted by Chocolatier/Pastry Art and Design, with a reception announcing their Ten Best list for 2003. The pastry chefs listed here, including myself, will be doing a tasting. It is invitation-only, though I've been hearing the guest count is over 800. This one sounds great... wish I could be there!

Yeah, I should've assumed that. I just didin't want to risk busting on someone's Famie cool! They're fragile.

The local restaurant community used to poke fun at Keith long before the Survivor thing... Honestly, brig, did you like his book?

And just what, exactly, did it do to you?

Ladybug, the sugar and glucose are cooked to a caramel that I judge simply by sight. I push the color for maximum flavor, but too dark, and you'll risk a touch of bitterness. Sugar will caramelize between 310-320ºF, so if I had to guess, perhaps 330º or so. Just remember that it makes a lot. If you are not pouring onto a silpat, I think a greased/sprayed pan will work out fine. Ambient temperature and humidity may affect how long it will take to set up...

Sorry, still working out the Archive. I had some difficulty inserting the ingredients. This will yield about a quart of spun ice cream. The ingredients should read as follows... 500g whole milk 125g granulated sugar 4g ice cream stabilizer, optional 90g pasteurized egg yolks 125g heavy cream 40g aceto balsamico Reggio Emilia, red label 30g balsamic vinegar Right now I'm using the stabilizers from Albert Uster. Once I run out of them, I plan on going with Sevarome products.

Balsamic vinegar ice cream.

Financier is a classic little French cake, the dominant flavors being almond and brown butter. The name was coined by a boulangerie near the Paris financial houses, and was typically baked in a rectangular mold; with its golden brown color, it resembled a gold bar. In my recent redo, I've substituted about half of the brown butter with extra virgin olive oil. We bake them in a savarin mold (imagine a donut shape) as service begins each evening. The strawberry water is made by tossing chopped strawberries with sugar and acid (orange and lemon juice, plus their zest), placing them in a covered container and steaming the whole, either in a steamer, over a double boiler, or sometimes on top of an oven. The nearly clear, deep red liquid that results is bright and fresh and intensely flavored. This liquid is poured into the bowl tableside. The ice cream utilizes both standard cheapo balsamic and the certified, red label Reggio-Emilia stuff, making it the second most expensive ice cream in my repertoire, after white truffle. Edited to add link to eGRA.

I'm running an aged balsmic ice cream on my menu now... with an olive oil financier and strawberry "water"...

I wasn't even thinking about this thread tonight, when with a few spare moments at hand, I put together a sorbet idea I've been thinking about lately... A blend of juiced red and yellow peppers and orange juice (A rough 60-40 ratio), with dashes of yuzu and 25 year sherry vinegar, and a subtle infusion of ginger and szechuan peppercorn. Light on the sugar, as I'm intending to run it as an intermezzo course. I'm running it in the Paco tomorrow, so we will see...

Balsamic Vinegar Ice Cream adapted from Pierre Gagnaire 500 g whole milk 125 g granulated sugar 4 g ice cream stabilizer, optional 90 g pasteurized egg yolks 125 g heavy cream 25 g balsamic vinegar 35 g aceto balsamico Reggio Emilia, red label 1. Place milk in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. 2. Meanwhile, combine sugar and stabilizer, if using. Whisk sugar mixture into egg yolks 3. Remove boiled milk from heat and temper into egg yolks. Return to low heat and cook to 84ºC/183ºF. Remove from heat. 4. Add cream and both vinegars to base and strain through a chinois. Chill in an ice water bath and allow to mature 12 hours. 5. Process in a batch freezer. Keywords: Ice Cream, Dessert ( RG518 )

Cashew Caramel I'll offer you a nice version that I use, for everything from a layer in entremets to dipped or enrobed in chocolate as a petit four. The quantity is indeed large. I pour it into caramel rulers, set onto a full sheet pan sized silpat, but the recipe can easily be broken down by half or in thirds, if you like. The addition of the cocoa butter, in the form of milk chocolate, adds just enough structure; the recipes that call for cooking sugar and cream or milk to a certain temperature can be fickle. If coating in chocolate, I'll let it set for a day or so at room temperature (I treat it just like an enrobed ganache. Allow it to set or crystallize, apply a 'foot' or coating of chocolate for the bottom, cut, allow it to form a bit of a 'crust', then dip); if I'm using it as a layer in an entremet or individual dessert, I'll chill or freeze either as a sheet or in appropriate forms- but once it is chilled or frozen, the moisture from condensation alone will give it a softer texture once thawed. I prefer it made with salted cashews or peanuts, but any roasted nuts will suffice, though I might add a bit of salt if the nuts are unsalted... 300 g granulated sugar 125 g glucose 375 g heavy cream, warm 200 g milk couverture, chopped 600 g roasted, salted cashews, chopped 1. Combine sugar and glucose in a heavy, non-reactive sauce pan and cook to a medium-dark caramel. 2. Remove from heat and deglaze with a portion of the warm cream. Add remaining cream and cook until caramelized sugar has dissolved and mixture is homogeneous. Final amount of caramel should measure approximately 675g. 3. Combine chocolate and cashews in a large bowl. Pour the hot caramel into the bowl, stirring to combine completely, ensuring all chocolate is melted and thoroughly incorporated. 4. Pour into silpat-lined frame or other form and allow to set at room temperature or under refrigeration. Keywords: Dessert, Sauce ( RG513 )

After reading all of the reports and reviews, one question on my mind concerns the desserts at Sona... David's cooking being what it is- inventive, cutting edge, dare I say 'avant garde'- what I'm hearing of the desserts, perhaps with the exception of the green apple and foie gras dish, seem a bit more downscale. It's just an impression that I'm getting. For those who have been, do the desserts, however tasty and well prepared, match the intensity and creativity of the courses that preceeded? If not, is that a positive or a negative? Do diners want their desserts to be slightly more familiar, and less 'played with'? While I offer all of my long distance support to the restaurant and their goals, I'm curious if there is that rare continuity through the end of the meal...