
Pontormo
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Perhaps the expression "as American as apple pie" was coined to proclaim independence from England? Surely now that you live in another colonized land you have developed a keener understanding of such a desire. As a concession to our shared debt, we do have chicken pot pies, often bought pre-made in individual servings at supermarkets. The larger, family-sized, home-made versions tend to be what might be called a casserole here, concessions made to British roots by sometimes placing a crust on top, whether crimped pastry or what, again, WE refer to as 'biscuit" like, spooned on rough for a savory cobbler. Then there's Shepherd's Pie, a nod to your northern origins, lass. We do that, too. However, we are muts and while for a long time, suspicious, picky, boring, boring eaters, many of us, we have emerged as generous, greedy paws who takes what we can from the savory, hand-held pies of Eastern Europe and Latin America and not just the stuff that D.H. Lawrence's miners brought down into the sooty earth. We love puffy stuffed Chinese buns and all those other Asian goodies that wrap rice or wheat-flour disks around seafood, vegetables and shredded pork...as is the case in Australia. As for what you might call puddings (pudding is usually our version of Bird's instant custard powder in different flavors), we like the Italian crostada as well as the French tart, but the Italy-France business is complicated. Let's just say, there's tremendous multiculturalism in the desserts we now serve, although the earliest ones with fruit might owe most to practical ingenuity. What do you do with all that fruit you canned and turned into jam over the summer? Pie!!! Of course, there's mincemeat pie, too, as pointed out before, a deep bow to medieval dishes, British or not. Still, put a pumpkin next to a mincemeat pie on the Thanksgiving table, the squash wins every time. In writing your book, you might check out something that was published recently in our land: Humble Pie (reviews were mixed). About some, if certainly not all the values ascribed to pie: Can She Bake a Cherry Pie?, the title a reference to an American folk song.
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I believe I was giving you cooking orders. ---She who dined on chickpeas, chilies, tomatoes, onion, garlic, bulgur, parsley, olives, cucumber, mint, beets, lemon, red wine, cardommon tea, a single date and almonds, that is, something you could serve a vegan if need be
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Great conversation, Indy67! The center of Florence is quite compact, and besides, the line starting at the door of the Accademia might inspire you to duck down a side street for a little peace and quiet. For good advice about places to eat in Florence, neighborhood by neighborhood, see Divina's web site. She lists one near the Accademia, but I've linked something on a small street on the opposite side of the Duomo that I think you might like: Coquinarius. It's charming, friendly, and the salads are nothing like the ones dainty ladies order. Once the greens have cooled you down after the muggy heat, if the Gorgonzola tossed with the leaves isn't enough, there is cheesecake with your name on it...just leave room for the gelato you'll need before you go see David. Look around you when you are there, though. One of the best Italian traditions is lunch in (coffee) bars where you can get crostini, bowls of pasta, panini and sometimes a good deal more. Just don't go into any of the places that are clearly established for tourists, especially around the train station or via Calzaiuoli, the "main street" in the center of Florence that is via Cavour on the left (facing the Duomo) and Calzaiuoli on the right, leading into Piazza della Signoria, the Uffizi, etc. It's the one with Footlocker and The Disney Store. Be sure to go to the Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco for dinner one night. You'll find further details under the "Oltrano" neighborhood listings on Divina's site.
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Kevin, I am so impressed! Funny, I don't think I have ever made my own flatbreads of any kind. (Sorry. I have been meaning to make three things I have all the ingredients for, but speaking of flatbreads, I've just had a craving for things stuffed into tortillas, avocados and am busy using up dried beans and grains; Syrian food tonight. Soon. Soon.) Do you like the carte? Versatile or just an interesting experiment? The poof sounds like dramatic fun. ETA: Klary, thanks for the bibliographic reference. Sounds great.
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They were nagged into it by a woman? A. ← Do you bite your thumb at me, sir? Might I point out the co-founders of this site you joined to talk about food are both male? Now, be a man, read this thread on Sardinian cooking and go stuff one critter inside another inside another and pit-roast it in Deborah's yard... Henry Lo might suggest you eat maggot cheese while you're at it.
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Michael Pollan's open letter to Whole Foods
Pontormo replied to a topic in Food Traditions & Culture
Based on some of the absolutely ignorant things I have been known to declare with uttter conviction (cf. one of my earliest posts in this thread), I would caution you about the dangers of presumptions. I have met the author and handed out braised short ribs as he spoke, but that is it. -
Michael Pollan's open letter to Whole Foods
Pontormo replied to a topic in Food Traditions & Culture
One of the sources was direct. -
I discovered a recipe card for Grace's Corn & Blueberry relish and have entered it in recipegullet. This was called a blueberry salsa upthread.
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Michael Pollan's open letter to Whole Foods
Pontormo replied to a topic in Food Traditions & Culture
Whole Foods is preparing a new letter which Michael Pollan plans to answer. -
Gorgeous, Kevin! Especially the pasta, though the fish looks perfectly suitable. I love the wording: "butter sauteed with zucchini...." I confess to have completely forgotten the significance of the 24th until the last moment and ended up relying on all of the (complementary) herbs I had to augment some pesto. Greens on the side.
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Positano is quite possible as a source of inspiration, though this painting may not represent any specific place in a literal sense. Now do I get to choose which pizza you'll send me as my prize? ETA: The tree on the far left indicates the artist's debt to Cezanne's views of Mt. Sainte-Victoire.
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JULY 2: 10th Anniversary of the FRESHFARM Market at Dupont Circle A special bell ringing will open the market on a day when you'll find the ten founding farmers decked in blue ribbons, and if you've lucky, Thomas Jefferson will share a copy of his shopping list with you as he did with shoppers at the inaugural event in 1997. Butcher's paper will stretch around the fences so you may record fond memories and share good wishes for the future. There will be a chef demo by Arpad Lengyel of Teaism whose business also celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. And yes, there will be cake. * * * Today's torrent of rain brought a very small crowd to the earliest hours of the market at Dupont Circle, though people started to arrive after 10:30 or 11:00 once the rain stopped altogether. Bernie Prince, one of the co-founders of FRESHFARM Markets, was back from delivering her key note address in New Zealand, still sleepy, still grinning and wishing she and her daughter had stayed longer. New Morning is selling golden beets now and its first type of green bean: Florence. Those amazing jade beans do not arrive until later. The much anticipated sorrel is still not available at the stand of the "Greens Lady;" she's not crazy about the effect of early heat. We'll see. The herbs, as always, were beautiful as were the bulbous green onions that I picked up. Heinz is also selling gorgeous globes of Walla Walla onions and beautiful cucumbers, greens and heads of delicate lettuce. This was probably his last week of fava beans. Eli's had MOUNDS of nectarines. Some of us were a little skeptical, but a kid walking by, juice dripping down his arm said they were really, realy good. There are cherries, berries of all kinds, even some stubborn strawberries (Sunnyside actually had asparagus still, for that matter). Baby asparagus, purple and bright yellow-orange cauliflower, soft-shell crabs..... After the rows of green, green, and green in early spring, the range of colors grows with each new week of summer. One of the perks of a rainy day is that Atwater (my favorite for big loaves of bread) doesn't sell out by 11 and Bonaparte still had thick wedges of quiche, rich with ham.
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Grace's Corn & Blueberry Relish A doctor who runs a medical clinic in Seattle prepared this relish for a large, weekend-long summertime fest on the other coast. The serious cooks and eaters in attendance adored it as I hope you will, too. Great with grilled meats and picnic fare. 4 ears of corn 1-1/2 c blueberries 6 T Extra-virgin olive oil 2 T champagne vinegar Salt & pepper to taste 1 bunch basil 1. Start boiling a large pot of water. Once that is on the stove, shuck corn and slice kernels off the cobs, a process best done inside a wide bowl. 2. Pluck basil leaves, discard stems and wash them thoroughly. Set them on either a paper towel or dish cloth to dry. 3. Wash blueberries and place them on separate towel to dry. 4. If corn is very fresh, boil it in highly salted water for no more than a minute, two if you must. Using a colander, drain corn, and either shock it in a bowl of chilled water with ice cubes or shrug and simply rinse under cold water. And yes, let them dry off a bit on another towel. 5. Combine berries and corn. Whisk oil and vinegar and season to taste. Pour over the blue and yellow mixture. 6. Cut basil leaves into a chiffonade. Toss with relish. Taste again. Grace had originally recommended 2 tablespoons vinegar and we discovered that the flavor of the relish brightened considerably after adding more vinegar. Keywords: Side, Easy, Salad, Vegetables, Vegan, Fruit, Vegetarian, American ( RG1744 )
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Not Charlie Trotter, but if they're also New Yorkers, they'd appreciate this. P.S. The same Web site has many relevant alternatives, though the Bacon bib isn't quite as cute.
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I think a pair of orange rubber clogs and orange high-top Converse sneakers would be cool .
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...Is it an older recipe? My Mme St. Ange often will call for loaf sugar- or cube sugar. It used to be the formed sugar was made from a finer grain, but that is no longer the case. You could try a comparison between superfine and regular sugar and see if one works better than the other. ← Kevin is more familiar with Marlena de Blasi as a cookbook author than I am, but when she alters regional dishes, she does it in a way that seems different from others. Instead of "modernizing" recipes to compensate for things English-speaking home cooks may not have, she seems to feel more free to be creative while still maintaining the integrity of the traditional dish. Presumably all of her recipes reflect long-established traditions, so the era in which this particular confection first emerged may indeed explain why sugar cubes are specified. However, Ling's comment about a desirable texture makes sense, especially since any granular feel left in the meringues would taste of the grappa.
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Beautifully orchestrated menu, Ling & Henry, the stuffed calamari and dessert with the creative accompaniments to the pastry in particular. You manage to demonstrate to us how a region that has not inspired much activity this month can nonetheless inspire a wonderful meal. Any comments about the dishes you served? * * * And, yes, Kevin, regarding the fregule's absorption of liquid. I prepared more last night for a tomatoey chicken dish and cooked as if it were pasta, it was fine. I imagine freshly prepared fregula would be more interesting.
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For the ones that you don't freeze, if you can find good fresh corn, a great blueberry salsa is made with barely cooked corn, white wine or Champagne vinegar and lots of basil. No recipe. Use your own judgment regarding proportions, etc., a little finely minced red onion, for example. Perfect for grilled chicken.
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Susan--Did you see comment about Julia Child's advice? Overnight resting is recommended, so you did the right thing! It is interesting that sugar led to carmelization in such a thin batter. Makes sense. I am going to see if I get the same results this weekend. And Chufi, as Tina Weymouth and the Tom Tom Club would say: Don't Stop! The transparent crepe looks beautiful! * * * Not a scientific count, especially since I cannot even guess gender of creativeingredients, but so far women outnumber men in this thread is 2:1. Not even going to try on the first 5 pages of Charcuterie, but I kind of wonder just how sexist I am in suspecting the proportions might be reversed. (With hats off to Abra, Anna N et al. of course.)
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You live in D.C.? Still feeling generous? (They are great simply added to maple syrup for French toast, banana and yogurt smoothies with fresh mint, Cheerios in the morning, BUTTERMILK pancakes, muffins with lemon zest.... Fabulous in a minimalistic fruit salad, paired only with ripe honeydew--also gorgeous that way. There was a wonderful sour cream cake with blueberries way back when in Bon Appetit...)
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Michael Pollan's open letter to Whole Foods
Pontormo replied to a topic in Food Traditions & Culture
Perhaps I am not understanding the point of reference here, but Michael Pollan not only spoke to participants in his clear preference, the farmers's market, he worked on an organic farm in Virginia which serves as a vehicle for addressing pasture-fed livestock. During his book tour in Washington, D.C., he spoke together with his host Joel Salatin of Polyface Farm; the chef demonstration featured braised short ribs, perhaps from cows he met during his research. Yes, Pollan had an agenda going into the project, but I find it most engaging when the myth of objectivity is cast aside by writers who are motived by passion, curiosity, vision, and ultimately, something substantive that they wish to convey. If the argument and reader are both intelligent, better yet. The latter can always go elsewhere for a different perspective, approach, or set of data. In addition to Agrarian Dreams, recent, related books include Organic, Inc. and What to Eat, packaged together with Pollan's book at Amazon. N.B. These are not eG-friendly links either. The Abraham for many of the folk who write from Pollan's perspective is the poet, farmer and Luddite, Wendell Berry. -
Perhaps with help from a computer-graphics specialist, the youthful Carrie Fisher could take part in the scene. With Mario's presence, we can justify her hairstyle: During the Q & A of his book-signing that's what he said he was planning to do; another eG member is right in noting connection between his current NYer article on pastry chefs and future book. He's exploring the whole "Catherine de' Medici made French cooking" interpretation of culinary history even though it has been said to be quite a bit more complicated than that. He's been reading Pizza Napoletana's beloved Latini and plans to cross the Alps over to France himself.
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SCALLION CREPES WITH STIR-FRY VEGETABLES So, I reach deep into the cupboard to retrieve my small neglected crepe pan, handle engraved with the number "18." That may be how many years have passed since it's last seen heat. It looks at me, forlorn, submissive as I wipe it clean, plunge it under running water and then towel it dry. By now, it is starting to wake up. Placed on the burner, it noticeably brightens. I pour in the oil. Excited, eager, it bursts into flames. I watch in disbelief, then, finally come to my senses and cover it with a pot lid. It calms down. We try again. This time, I may have over-compensated for my primitive fear of fire by wiping off too much oil in the pan, for as I pour in the prepared batter, the eggy solution clings to overlooked craggy residue on the surface of the pan, sucks up the oil, and begins to char. We try again. This time, perfect! I am so, so happy that my pan finally is catching on and not on fire that I overlook the sweet little white custard bowls beside the stove: the toasted sesame seeds and pile of scallions rings as I flip what I can truthfully call a crepe over. With the next one, I DO remember. The scent of the sesame oil in the batter is lovely and almost seems to rise to greet the golden seeds that I sprinkle over the surface after the scallions. After the finished stack is placed in the oven, I return to the counter. I used a recipe from Local Flavors, a book by Deborah Madison purchased last summer largely for the text and all the wonderful photographs of farmers's markets across the United States. I had used only one recipe before since most of the dishes would be familiar to anyone who also cooks regularly from her earlier books. Another attraction is its organization: beginning with tender young Alice Waters greens, the narrative and recipes unfold along with the growing season. A tomato soup with peppers (which I roast first) is sublime and this crepe batter works out well, too, although, after a couple of hours in the refrigerator, the sesame oil separates from the mixture and floats, forming a ring close to the surface of the batter. Air bubbles are noticeable, too, which may be why Julia Child recommends keeping the batter chilled overnight. Instead of following Madison's suggestions for a filling, I used what was on hand: thin half-moons of golden zucchini, same with a red onion and then a generous handful of snap peas along with the usual aromatics (minus scallions) and a simple binding broth. The results were colorful and delicious. I think I need to add another hook to the wall in my kitchen just for my crepe pan. This could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
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alimento lento? SB (at least it rymes) ← Loro dicono <<Slow Food>> aussi en France. That's the point. The response to fast food from the United States is embedded in the language chosen, yet, ironically (?), English is most practical (at the moment) to use for a movement desiring to shape an international community. Carlo Petrini's reaction to plans for the presence of McDonald's at the foot of the Spanish Steps in Rome is usually cited as the moment the founder of Slow Food found his calling.
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I think that one just has to go. Or do you want to cook something with them You mean, like when you throw a package of frozen raspberries in the blender at 2AM to make frozen daquiris, only to find out that red pepper daquiris don't taste so good even at 2AM ← Could I make 'smore daquiris without graham crackers? Too small to toast over the gas burner on the end of a two-prong fork which I am wont to do with larger ones. * * * As for all the dried beans in the cabinet, yes, I hear you. I don't like cooking every night and do like cooking, so I tend to prepare several things over the weekend. If there's too much, I have an old friend nearby, a working mom in a house of guys who are either meat-eaters or still not out of the White Food phase (new development: loves pesto!). Since we share tastes, she's grateful for things to bring to lunch or share with husband on a busy weeknight. Besides, I love soups made from all sorts of beans during the winter, I've spent a lot of time in a city whose natives are known as bean-eaters and a long time in another where I swear, half the population is vegetarian...or at least 1/3 of the folk within my circle. They're a way for me to distinguish myself from my family (no bean eaters there) and to feel nostalgic about an era that was not even mine...well, never mind the essay. Let's just say, the contents of these jars don't get used very much after May, though I love making falafel (only reason I bought the food processor) and having NEVER made a salad with Le Puys before, I am rediscovering my appreciation for Alice Waters and HER Lulu.