Bapi

Please don't feel there is any need to rush back- not unless you are in possession of something leather ,which one would carry or wear in one's trousers. I am of course talking about your (rarely seen) wallet and not the Red Nose day cod-piece you seem to think is suitable attire of an evening. Bloody freak of nature. Very much looking forward to the meal, but not the company obviously. If I may, I have one slight reservation which RDB alludes to and that is the slight predeliction towards "curry spices" on the menu. As a chap from Bengali heritage (i.e. parents from West Bengal, India as opposed to Bangladesh); I am slightly scared. Only because, the cooking I grew up with of that region, dicates a very judicious use of spices to produce a dish and so similar flavours reappearing, may challenge me somewhat. Then again, I happily look forward to being proven wrong.

Yes thanks, I had read that Heston B. had given up his share. But for the love of god- closed for allegedly five months and they don't have the decency to leave a friggin recorded message to that effect. That is poor beyond belief.

Sorry - off topic but........ This is not my favourite establishment at the moment. We are in Bray this weekend and can't get down in time for the lunch slot offered to us at the Hind's Head. So I rang the Riverside Brasserie -no answer- so I tried four further times- all at a reasonable hour. Still, no bugger deigned to pick the bloody phone up, nor was there an answer machine. Gaaah As you were- rant over.

That's a little rich coming from the man who cried like a baby because I forgot to take the reciept from a recent meal we shared, and which you were hoping to claim back on. Thanks for all the info about Hi-Life chaps. I agree with issue about it looking a little miserly to use it- but as a lot of the places are on the "to do with the missus list" in Manchester( Sapporro Teppanyaki, EastzEast, Harvey Nicks etc)- I think one can justify it by the fact that just four or five meals out - would pay for the initial expense. Even if, as you say Gary, you may only use it once at each place. Cheers B

Bloody hell Thom -are you a bloody psychic? I have been thinking about a Hi-Life card for couple of weeks and was just about to ask about one Problem is there is a Yorkshire card and a Northwest card. So getting both may prove a little expensive.

I think Brownbear is enjoying a moment of schadenfreude - if you search for his other posts on this site (try looking on the Nottingham thread) all should become clear. ← Just a tip for the future Simon. Probably not too prudent for a chef aspiring to Michelin status, to publicly make mordant comments about one who already has achieved just that.

I take it all back you shandy lightweight. It takes and intelligent person to take on such a buisness- make a great success of it, receive plaudits and awards and then sell at the top of their game. So, naturally, I am assuming it was Sarah's idea Rare sincere moment alert: Well done mate, it was a fabulous place and you both richly deserved those kind words. Now get the beers in you tight Yorkshire git.

"What a surprise sat bains copying heston!!!" I am hoping you are taking the piss re your comment above. If not, are you saying that you have never used ideas from elsewhere on your menu?? Or are we to presume that the Valrhona Chocolate fondant on your tasting menu, is your own inimitable creation.

Gavin- sorry matey, but that list is from 2004 isn't it?

My son and I also suffered from a dose of the "bug" last year. It wasn't a very pleasant couple of days. But sunbeam's post reminded me of our honeymoon six years ago. It involved a gastro tour around the country, with two days ooop North which I won't name, but is named after two types of Crustacea. The first night we had a Fruits der Mer between us- which was superb and has yet to be bettered. The second night we asked them to prepare a huge plate of langoustines as a special. All was fine till the early hours when we both became very ill. She more so than I. I didn't complain the next day as such- partly because we had asked for the dish specially and more so since we pragmatically thought - if you love and order as much seafood; eventually the odds are going to stack against you. In all honesty, I only remember one langoustine head that looked a tad dodgy, which I obviously didn't eat. So whilst we have blamed the incident on the langoustines for years- I suppose that our illness could too just have been a bug. That six hour journey down south to Moulsford and then Bray the next day was the worst of my life though.

I hope it bloody does put the house prices up- but what the hell is the reference to shoes about? Are you thinking of Ramsbottom instead dear boy?

A couple more meals here recently. One with some greedy bugger from down sarf which you can read about here. I went again yesterday with the missus. The missus is becoming seriously addicted to those Padron Peppers. We also went for the monkfish dish Jay refers to. It's cooked on the bone, which gives the the flesh a tender succulence and it's probably the best monkfish dish I have had since Shaun Hill's siganture dish of Monkfish with Mustard and cucumber. Best of all was a specials dish of the standout Pig cheeks - slowly braised, with morcilla. The latter being a wonderful black pudding. Apologies to Bury- the home of Black Pudding- but this stuff knocked the socks off anything I have ever eaten from there. After nine dishes, apparently five is the norm for a couple , we ended with the Spanish classic of dark chocolate tart, with Valrhona chocolate ice cream. Oh, all right, it wasn't very Spanish - it was however superb. Along with a a dollop of that wondrous Timothy Taylor's ice cream; made from the King of Beers. Bloody hell- typing this is making me hungry. We may have to pop down the road for some roast beef at the Millbank. Whoever coined the phrase "It's grim up North" was, quite frankly, a Muppet.

Oh Jesus- you've done it now RDB. Expect a fourteen page response from Thom.

Are you reading this Marshall? I am not paying again next month. Now that you mention brawling footballers Thom. I seem to recall a local news report last year that mentioned Wayne Rooney being arrested at Panacea; which says all you need to know.

Actually- this was a rather funny incident. We walked down the stairs of Panacea and had a cursory glance over the ridiculosly eclectic menu. This instantaneously set Gary off into a state of near apoplexy- such that his puce face matched the colour of his shirt. (Not pretty to behold- trust me). Hence we left immediately and our state visit to Panacea lasted in all, about three minutes. His fractious mood only abated when a pint of lager was thrust into his hand in Mr Thomas' Chop House. In fact, the Grumpy git had a similar "Panacea moment" this week, when discussing a forthcoming lunch venue. I take it that's all sorted now Thom? Back on topic- I too hear good things about Harvey Nichols in Manchester from someone in the trade whose opinion I trust.

Bugger- we are due to go there on a Sunday too. Agree parking is horrific in Bray. Which is why if we are lunching elsewhere in Bray, but staying at the Waterside. I rather cheekily pitch up early and politely ask them to park the car in their car park. (Paranoid as we had the car broken into in the Hind's Head car park a few years ago and lost loads of personal stuff). Can highly recommend that Hot pot for next time though. Cheers for the info Bertie, will discuss with the senior partner about lunch.

A few more details please Bertie. Staying in Bray next month and we are thinking of having lunch at the Hind's head, before the main event in the evening.

I think Hugo would make a better judge. He is certainly more articulate and he has better table manners.

What a crock of shit this prgramme is. Did anyone see the programme last night? Highly competent Police bloke (Rob?), was totally unflappable in the kitchen of the Mandarian Oriental hotel. He then produced a good looking confited salmon starter and and a pork belly dish, which was admittedly somewhat overcooked. But he lost out to the woman, who produced roast patridge without the skin( sacrilege), but with all the trimmings. Torode said the components were far too sweet. And she was utterly pants in the professional kitchen. She couldn't even plate salad up, despite being told how too umpteen times. Aaagh, why send them to a professional kitchen and ask the chef's opinion- if they then take fuck all notice? I only watch it as my two year old loves it. He will be watching on his own tonight, for fear of me sticking my foot through the telly.

Anne, I am pretty sure the the Bridge restaurant has long since gone, though the Bridge pub by the river is still going strong. I think Gimbals is still there too, well it was in the 2006 Harden's guide though I haven't been. No idea about the Deli haven't noticed one yet- but will search it out now, so thanks. BTW- I forgot to mention re sourcing their ingredients authentically. Apparently Anthony Flinn and Simon Shaw take it turns to fly over to Spain to get them. Mmm, I feel another trip down the road coming on. Edit--And I heard back that they have now ordered a suitable Cava, which is on the way (and had been ordered before my gripe above.)

Nice review my friend and well deserved. Now all you have to do is open more during the week for lunch !! Loved the line about the winemakers of Burgundy planning foreign trips every time you open a wine list.

Food dammit- It’s a rather perverse affliction isn’t it? One which causes one to do rather rash things. How so? Well, I have eulogised, at length, about a certain pub called the Millbank in West Yorkshire on here before. We were so enamoured with the food, affable service, wonderful views and the tranquil setting that is the Ryburn valley, that we er,………bought a house there and moved into the village. I now live 3 minutes and 5 seconds away from the pub. Yes- I have timed it and of course, it’s quicker if I am thirsty or hungry. Granted from fiscal perspective and for the sake of the little chap in the picture to the left and his inheritance, this is possibly not a good thing. But it gets worse……this area is gaining a well deserved reputation for food. Just five minutes away in Ripponden is El Gato Negro Tapas- owned by business partners Simon Shaw and Chris Williams. Both worked at the restaurants of the Harvey Nichols group, Simon as Executive Chef and Chris was in charge of the front of house in London. It may seem odd then that they should choose to open their first venture as a tapas restaurant in a small village in West Yorkshire, but I for one am not complaining. In fact Stephen Jackson of the excellent Weaver’s Shed, Golcar was eulogising about them in a recent Yorkshire Life magazine, where El Gato Negro had won newcomer of the year. (Nice one re your award Stephen, for Yorkshire chef of the year btw). In addition, Stephen mentioned both the Millbank and in the next village along The Old Bore, Rishworth, owned by Scott Hessel- he of the slightly ill-fated egullet thread last year. This tipped the balance for me and so when my best man and his frumpy Spanish wife came to stay last weekend, we ventured down the hill to try it. It’s set in the middle of the village in an attractively converted pub. Inside they have retained the original flagstones, and added attractive banquette seating and an eclectic collection of wooden tables; all of which co-exist rather neatly with contemporary tonal colours. To order you simply peruse the placemat menu before you and then tick the appropriate boxes, indicating whether you need multiples of any dish…… and yes, of course we did need to order twice. The menu is split into snacks, hams and salamis, tapas meat, fish and vegetables along with sections for bread, cheese and daily specials. To start with Anchovy fillets on crostini -were lovely, not too salty and served with a sticky balsamic reduction. Acorn fed Jamon Iberico came next- the most expensive dish at £9.50, but utterly delicious nevertheless and to be honest this stuff costs a fortune doesn’t it? Meatballs came with a fritada sauce and were fine. Moist pink, Beef fillet came with wild mushrooms and caramelised shallots and a sherry reduction. Confit of belly pork with rosemary flavoured arrocina beans, came in thin slices with a nice layer of crispy fat. I will admit this was one of the last dishes we ordered, so didn’t get the full benefit as I was rather full. But before I got to that stage, we had a absolutely perfect grilled baby lamb chops with roast parsnips. I could have gnarled away quite happily on these all afternoon. Bloody knockout stuff. Padron peppers with Maldon sea salt were a personal favourite. I love these things and the Russian Roulette-like risk of not knowing whether the next pepper will blow one’s head off. Syrian lentils were excellent- redolent with subtle notes of cumin and coriander and Tortilla of the day was a classic one with onions and potato. I rather liked it, but my friend thought it could have done with a smidgeon more potato. Spinach and mushroom croquetas were, to me, a revelation. I tried some last year, in the middle of the Boqueria market in Barcelona. At a bar called El Quim (yes, you read that correctly), and they were an abomination of microwaved mush. These however, were light, crispy and moreish. From the fish/seafood section we had Tiger prawns with rosemary, chilli and garlic and the standout dish of scallops, with mini Catalan chorizo and chick pea puree. Sadly shared between the four of us, but I could have eaten two portions of these on my own quite happily. After seventeen dishes, we were sadly beaten and not even the extremely genial host Chris could tempt us into ordering dessert. Top marks to him and his team, who coped admirably with our respective toddlers having a “moment” each. He took them off us and whisked them off to the kitchen. Not to have them cooked you understand. In terms of their reputation, they already have a strong local following and from slightly further a field - well a certain Mr Flinn and his missus Olga from Leeds have been, Robert Cockcroft- the Yorkshire Post food critic loved it and somebody called Andy Lynes wrote about it in Olive magazine last year. And if higher praise were needed - the aforementioned friend’s frumpy wife (fear not, she is equally rude to me) is from Barcelona- so knows her tapas. She was aghast at the quality of the tapas on offer. Well the meal kept her and my missus quiet for an hour, which is never a bad thing. Edit- to strike a balance I did have one minor gripe. I was on driving detail so was not really tucking into the wine. The girls had ordered a bottle of Prosecco by the time I returned with the second contingent, because there was no Cava on offer! Come on now chaps, there must be some out there you can put on the wine list surely. El Gato Negro Tapas

The missus works very close by and ate here a few times on business. Great food, she said, but risible time keeping in terms of having a quick lunch and getting back to the "orifice". So much so that clients often said " God no, we will be there for hours". I only went there once to drink far too much bubbly stuff. Their staff made such a song and dance about bringing the champane to our table, yet failed to do so, and so we just upped and left. They even fucked up on renewing their licence to serve alcohol, such that customers had to take their own along! Not too good for the one restaurant in Manchester that was aiming for a star.

Cheers Bertie. Bloody hell that is close.

Ok, I give in. Where the hell is Hunters? I need a fix.