Bapi

Manchester leads (or indeed Leeds) and London follows.

On reflection, I remember Gary texting on the Sunday afternoon when checking in, and saying that the place was packed to the rafters with a Shooting Party. But as you say, even if they were busy in the afternoon, things should also run smoothly later that evening. And yes, I did really enjoy what we had to eat, which is why I will return at some point. I was just a little disheartened beacuse I had been looking forward to dining there, after having tried- Northcote's little sister- the Three Fishes late last year. Knowing that there is a restaurant of that calibre, quite near to us and having listened to the experiences of people whom I trust- I just wanted it to be spot on that night and sadly the service didn't step up to the mark. PS- The video recorder is redundant and hasn't been used for years- I don't why it's still under the television to be honest

As ever, the humanitarian and altruistic side to my character took pity on the poor damsel that is Sarah. Who could put up with the ramblings of Yorkshire’s most recent landlord - Gary Marshall, all alone for an entire evening? So Rosie and I selflessly sacrificed a night in front of Midsomer Murders, a few weeks back, to join Gary and Sarah for dinner and to celebrate his 40th birthday. Northcote Manor is one of the few Michelin starred restaurants in the Northwest. It is situated very close to Blackburn and co-owned by Nigel Howarth and Craig Bancroft. The former, a talented chef, who is, from what I have read, a champion of all things Northern. The latter, a very knowledgeable oenophile. The Manor is a handsome building both inside and out and we met up with the Birthday boy in one of the two comfortable lounges within. The canapés with our champagne rather escape me, sadly, bar a memorable thin duck roll served with a fabulous, sticky red wine reduction. In any case, after careful consideration of the various menus - the greedy buggers convinced the lasses to submit to the 10 course menu at £85, as opposed to the 8 course option. And so we moved into the dining room which was much larger than I expected. The lighting was subdued and cosy, bar those god awful, angled spot-lights. They meant I had to endure the light pollution that was the glare, cascading off Gary’s forehead for the entire meal. (Please- all Restaurateurs note- angled spot lights are the work of the devil -desist !!). I don’t think I am being overly rude in saying that the room also needs a bit of love and attention- it’s a great space with real potential, but some of the artwork and drapes, could do with updating. But, I understand that a refurbishment is already being mooted. First up on our tasting menu was: Seared British White Beef, Wild Herb and Salsify Salad, Lime Caramel, Roast Marrowbone. A thin slice of the white beef- which actually refers to the breed of cattle, was surprisingly packed with flavour. The addition of the salad of salsify gave a pleasant textural note , but I didn’t really notice the lime caramel at all. The Roast marrow bone was served separately, as two small portions with a tiny parsley and onion salad. An obvious homage to Fergus Henderson’s dish. I am not sure how these two components of marrow and beef were supposed to have worked - but independently, they were delicious. A great start. Lobster Salad, Smoked Foie Gras, Pea shoots, Passion Fruit Dressing. I really liked this dish, The lobster was sweet, the foie gras rich, although not overly so - perhaps because of the smoking preparation. The pea shoots gave a vibrant, fresh whoosh of flavour. But everyone agreed the passion fruit dressing was the least successful addition and somewhat overpowering. Quail Turnover, Celeriac Cream, Morel Mushroom Sauce. Lovely stuff- very moreish. Light pastry encasing a succulent quail and complemented perfectly by the cream and the morel sauce. Foragers Soup- (Bittercress, Nettle, Chervil Wild Garlic)-Battersby’s Sheep Milk Gnocchi Vibrant green and very delicate, yet comforting. Nice touch with the Gnocchi which were perfect to dunk into the soup. Not sure this was the done thing - so sue me. ………. Tortellini of crab with a Langoustine cream instead of Sea Bass, Smoked Shallots, Woodall’s aged Ham, Saffron Foam, Purple Basil Oil. I wasn’t terribly bothered by the replacement of this dish with the tortellini, but on reflection - I would have liked the original dish, as I thought the tortellini was by far the weakest dish. Not a bad dish, it’s just that the flavours didn’t quite work for me - the crab meat was very fresh, but I found the seasoning and execution, a little out of kilter. Pan Roast Top Side of Herwick Mutton, Golden Beet Puree, Purple Sprouting Broccoli After reading all the hullabaloo about how fashionable mutton had become I had to try this. It was indeed very flavoursome, and accompanied by a swirl of the beet puree. A popular theme during the meal, but I think I would like to try this dish again- with this being the star of the show and not having been consumed after numerous courses before hand. Crispy Suckling Pig, roasted White tubers, Perigord Truffles, Jelly Pasta Fabulous crispy skin- succulent pig - what’s not to like? The truffles added a luxurious richness, I admit to not even noticing the tubers at all and at least the pasta, served in dinky little cast iron pots, meant Gary could get his carb intake. A selection of Lancashire Cheeses I am sad to say this was a risible course and since I was so aghast at the presentation of the dish when it arrived, I paid no attention to the names of the two cheeses. It consisted of two parsimonious slivers of cheese; a goats cheese and another blue veined cheese. Both were plonked beside some grapes which were patently past their best and juxtaposed next to a selection of biscuits that Sommerfield would be proud of. Quite frankly, as an impoverished student aeons ago, I never produced a plate as poor as that to my friends. And as Gary noted , the cheese course and Mutton course were not worth the extra £15 asked of us. Our mood was not improved when the next tranche of staff took over . The new chap, arrived at our table and blurted out “Are you having anymore food?”…….. What? There was only one other table still dining left apart from us, so it wasn‘t exactly busy. So have the bloody courtesy to ask your departing colleagues for that information, or even better get your arse in the kitchen and ask them, for god’s sake. Sadly, the wine service was also poor. I admire places that have the gumption to say- “look, we will pour it, let you taste it and reassure yourself that the wine is up to scratch - but after that, pour it yourself“. But if you insist on the whole formal rigmarole of placing the wine out of reach, so as to be able to top up the guest’s wine as and when required - then do it properly. Don’t bugger off to the other room for a chat and don’t rely on the customer having to tell you that there is wine left in the previous bottle in the cooler, before you open another one for the next few courses. Something I had to do twice. You should know what’s going on and especially when there are so few other tables still dining on the night. Aaaaggh. This is simple stuff - get it right or please don’t bother. Incidentally- I can’t remember the wines as Gary usually takes care of this aspect- which is actually a relief for me. Thankfully our mood was alleviated by two superb desserts. Fruit Bread Brioche (Toasted) soaked in Honey and Custard, Sheep’s milk ice-cream. Bramley Apple Crumble Soufflé, Lancashire Cheese Ice cream The soufflé was superb and another indication of the prodigious Head Chef-Lisa Allen’s talent in the kitchen. I note she has received many plaudits for her food recently. I just wish other elements like the service had been at the top of their game on the night so as to match her cooking. Just in case- I would point out the lasses who served our meals did sterling work- it was the chaps who let the side down on the night. I don’t wish to sound overly disparaging as a Michelin starred restaurant in Lancashire is all too rare a beast, and no doubt Gary will have a different perspective. It could have been Sunday night malaise on their part, but that is not in itself any form of mitigation, especially when we were paying well over £230 per couple. I think we got the feeling that they had a hard week and some of their team were winding down a little too early. I will return as I really enjoyed the food, and even Gary's company- but maybe that was the wine helping. But one thing is for sure, my return won’t be on a Sunday.

Please report back about Winteringham Fields. I'd be interested to hear how your meal is, after the departure of the Schwabs and the loss of one of their stars.

Indeed he does. We stayed and dined at Morston Hall a few summers back. Slightly unusually it's a no choice menu, with all the diners being served virtually within minutes of each other. Not quite sure how he manages that feat. Very competent and intelligent cooking, which errs away from being too fanciful; relying instead on quality ingredients, served simply. I won't be watching this week, for fear of smashing up my new television every time Thompson's face appears. Then again-it would be nice to see him being beaten by Blackiston.

He's not exactly Anthony Worrall Thompson is he - Worlds Geatest Dishes and this. Give the bloke a chance, at least he's worth listening to. ← Agree- I have a lot for time for him. Fort not Thompson. I would rather flambe my knackers than watch Thompson on television. I liked the programme- what little I managed to watch, since I was feeding the infant - but couldn't quite understand the format for the week. Is it just the same two chefs for the week culiminating in the Fort, Leith and Peyton judgement on Friday? If so, another three days of Burton Race snipping at Caines, could be a little torturous. Although it was patently obvious that was for the benefit of the camera.

What? My God you really are a parochial Yorkshireman Gary. But you even lived on this side of the border, so I am aghast you have never been. In any case Mark - you shouldn't miss the opportunity to visit the lakes, they are indeed stunning and sure to leave a lasting impression on you. I too stayed at Sharrow Bay recently (haven't had the time to write that up yet). It's setting is unique, with majestic views over Ullswater, towards the peak of Helvelyn. Quite stunning- and if you do go there- make sure you take the Kirkstone Pass from Lake Windermere to get there. As Gary wrtites, it is a little twee- but the food at Sharrow Bay is very good. Make sure you request the table called Alcove- which is slightly set away from the main dining room- but still has the fabulous view over the lake. Website- Sharrow Bay Another possiblityis the Drunken Duck Inn , although I would point out I have never eaten or stayed here, although some good friends are due to soon. I would aslo reccomend a drive over the Hard Knott and Wrynose pass if time permits- the views back over Langdale are amazing. V brief notes -so please ask if you need more. The Cotswolds are also well worth a visit too. Villages we particularly liked were Stanton- an archeytpal picture perfect village, as is the charming Lower Slaughter. The latter has two Hotels which are also part of the Von Essen group that owns Sharrow Bay. All are a bit pricey - but very popular with visitors from abroad. Again a bit rushed and there are better qualified people who may be able to help with with that part of the world- but still happy to help with further info if I can. Cheers B

Ho Hum The swan was found eight days ago.

Mathew - I certainly hope that continues as the next few weeks progress. Yet I fear that, as Erica has mentioned, a lot of, if not all the blame, currently lies with scare mongering tactics of the media. So we will have to see how the UK public react. As I understand it, the feared strain can only infect humans who have come into very close proximty with infected birds, as Erica asserts. But the pandemic that has been mooted and which is feared, will only occur when the virus can jump from human to human- not bird to human. There has yet to be a single occurence of the former happening. Let's hope that continues.

Knowing Gary's fondness for salad and all thing's vegetarian- I would be intrigued. Mmm, come to think of it - how about a vegetarian tasting menu Gary?

Do you not have maps in Cornwall? Don't answer that. Of course I understood that bit you tart, it was the cryptic beef reference. About one and a half hours from us to Westow - so add another half an hour for you. And why am I not suprised you have a Hairdresser as opposed to a Barber.

Translation please?

Er, yes I was, and the less said about my prowess (or lack thereof), the better.

Isabella, That's one hell of a list- Wow. Not sure it's quite in the same calibre, but what about the Three Chimneys on Skye?

WE??? I think you will find it was young Becky aged three, who caught it.

Sadly Hallie - I was hoping for the very same thing during my eight years in Southgate- it just didn't happen. As you say and I as have written elsewhere- there are thousands of cash rich families in that part of North London, and yet there is a complete dearth of any decent restaurants. I just can't fathom why it should be so?

Sackville- a trip to Basildog's place is a must if venturing to Padstow. And Basil's idea of going fishing and bringing the catch back to cook is a great one. Remind me Bas- how many did you lot catch and cook up on the barbeque last year? He also modestly forgot to mention, that Margot's is often very booked up during the Summer months. Just make sure you avoid the annoying local Wine Merchant who spends half his life in Margot's, blagging food and taking advantage of Basil's generosity. A sad and indeed, sorry thing to watch. Also- what about Elephant in Torquay on the way down to Cornwall?

I totally agree Hallie. I have often thought I would like to visit all three of the 3* Michelin restaurants and RHR was the one remaining one for us to try. But this phone policy - whilst possibly necessary in their mind- appears totally invidious from the perspective of the potential customer. 40 minutes on hold and then being told repeatedly what not to wear. For god's sake- we are not 6 years old. The above and the opnions of those who I trust who have dined there recently- mean I will sadly never bother now.

Unfortunately, I think that was very much the case. More shortly.

Off to Northcote Manor tonight. Will report back next week.

Definitely going to the Northcote Manor festival next year. Click for Andy's article

Nice one

Er, without wanting to embarass Erica. Perhaps her gaff in Fairford, near Cirencester, would be a suitable port of call It would be ours if in the area.

algy -would you kindly give us an indication as to which bottles you thought were relative bargains please? I am always a little aghast at some of the mark-ups that high-end restaurants inflict upon us; so would welcome some advice about what to look for. I would agree totally that this is an old-fashioned restaurant- but not about the old school environment verging on parody. But rather I think they know their market implicitly and and are making no attempt to conform to the vagaries of fashion.

Oh dear Erica-I had a feeling you might say that. Note to self-Never trust anywhere that has a cheesy video on their website.