Bapi

Burger King = The Work of the Devil KFC = Ambrosia (if a tad pickled and on the way home) :

I wholeheartedly agree with Cabrales regarding Diego Masciaga at The Waterside Inn. At the other end of the spectrum has anyone come across the officious and patronising fool at Quo Vadis? I very much doubt whether he is the maitre d', being junior in manner( not age) and I am afraid I do not know his name (probably a good job to, as I would be sorely tempted to despatch a South American Hit Squad), but, suffice to say he is of the sort, who firmly believes that the lurid bright orange spectacles he sports, are actually fashionable. Eight of us ventured there fairly recently to partake in a newspaper offer for £15 for two courses. On arriving, we declined his offer of an aperitif having already been elsewhere for cocktails. This seemed to both baffle and almost anger him. Such that when I asked what the "Leoni's Cannelloni" was, as listed on that day's menu, his terse and quite horrifically patronising response was "Everyone knows what Cannelloni is". Granted, most of us do, but is it only I who thinks the word "Leoni's" - is perhaps not the most descriptive to describe the contents of a dish?? I intimated this to him, suggesting that - "Leoni's" didn't even give an indication as to whether the dish was vegetarian or not. To which he "graciously" responded (read: barked back) that it contained spinach and ricotta. Is this form of surly behaviour acceptable of someone whose vocation should be to put people at ease and welcome them to enjoy (and spend money) on a meal? I don't think so, all it did was to instantly dispel any merriment at our table and ensure no further questions where asked about the food. A shame as the food was very good - including Leoni's Cannelloni! and the other staff were particularly polite. An even greater shame is that the rather striking (red haired) woman who was in charge at Quo Vadis a few years back, didn't seem to be there. She again, was the complete antithesis of the buffoon I have mentioned above- being both knowledgeable and genuinely helpful. Marco - bring her back. In a City of great restaurants, it is unlikely that I will pay good money to venture back to Quo Vadis, solely because of that member of staff. Why should I when I can get that sort of abuse at home ?

Yes, that’s the one, the crust is manipulated to look like a pigeon. Rather un-nervingly they serve the "salt crust" head on you plate as well. The crust helps to keep the meat wonderfully moist. Not exactly the same dish as we had , but this recipe was taken of the Le Manoir web site. http://eclipse.usp.net/usp/manoir/recipedb...ORMRecipeID=209

In order: 1. Hibiscus - I am totally in agreement with Andy Lynes. I have been twice this year, March and then June, both meals were superb. The latter meal just pipped the former, which in itself was some feat. Sheer inventive genius. 2. Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons- Dishes on offer were Leek and Foie gras terrine with shaved black truffles, and an excellent Langoustine Canneloni topped with Sevruga Caviar., and a succulent and uniformly pink squab cooked in salt crust 3. The Waterside Inn- See earlier thread. 4. The Merchant House. 5. The Trinity, at The Crown and Castle. Crikey - I hope my bank manager isn't an e-gullet member.

Cabrales- Apologies for not responding sooner, I have been away for a couple of weeks. Re : whether we met M Roux on this occasion, I am afraid the answer was no. We did howevever meet him on a previous visit, when he was charming, even to the drink sodden fool who insisted that he M Roux try some the monstrously expensive wine which he had ordered. He graciously had a quick slurp and moved onto the next table leaving the drunk lollopping around from side to side, much to the embarrasment of his, by now, beetroot coloured partner. Incidentally, when I ventured to the toilet later that evening, the door swung open and someone strode in, breathing heavily and sighing and then proceeded to go about his business . Ho hum - I thought , my friend from the dining room, no doubt- without wanting to look. How wrong I was, when I turned to leave I noticed it was the venerable and obscenely bouffant Melvyn Bragg instead. ( in case his lawyer's ever read this I am not suggesting he too was pickled too ! ) An aside for which I apologise . No, I am afraid no mention as to what the menus will be with the information I received but I noted a £30 set lunch which seems very good value starting in August I think. When I have any details I will let you know.

To celebrate my wife's 40th birthday, we returned to the Waterside Inn a few days back, for their current Sunday Night promotion. This included a bottle of champagne on arrival, (some toiletries for her) and their five course Menu Exceptionnel. I managed to surprise her, by booking her a day off with her boss, so she very taken aback and excited (albeit a smidgen hungover from the previous nights shenanigans at Alastair Little) when I told her that she had only few short minutes to pack for the night. A mere three hours later we left the flat and headed off to Bray. Upon arriving, your car is whisked away, and you and your luggage are happily ensconced within your room within minutes. We enjoyed the champagne out on the private(ish) balcony that our room- La Tamise - shares with one other room. A beautiful place to while away an hour or two, quaffing away, watching the river in the summer sun. We ventured downstairs about four hours later and decided to have a drink outside on the terrace. On previous visits, I hadn't realised that the huge glass frontage that overlooks the Thames actually opens up. Thus we were escorted through the restaurant to a little table on the terrace outside, to enjoy aperitif and canapes, which included: fine chicken liver Pate and a very flavoursome salmon dish, bound with something that completely escapes me. We were gloriously lucky with the weather, so contented ourselves with dry martini cocktail whilst watching the wildlife (inclusive of Berkshire's finest pootling up and down the Thames in their launches). We decided that the five courses we were intended to have, may be a bit too much and in any case we both wanted to try a full first course of Michel Roux's(and now his son Alain's ) signature dish of Pan fried lobster medallions with a white port and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne. We would have been able to try a single lobster medallion as this was incorporated into the Menu Exceptionnel, but having tried the dish that way previously, we both wanted to try this dish in all its glory. Hence, we both opted to choose from the a la carte menu. We were then taken back into what has to be one of the UK's finest dining rooms for lunch or dinner, to begin our meal. To start, an amuse bouche of, wait for it … a half of a seagull's egg cooked so the yolk was just the right side of hard boiled so as to warrant easy purchase with a fork, but still soft and gelatinous enough to taste wonderful. It was served with a tiny amount of watercress covered with a drizzle of mustard based dressing and a tiny thin crouton. How did it taste? For me, the yolk was incredibly delicate in flavour but still quite rich in texture. I loved it for someone, for whom soft/hard boiled eggs have, for a long period, been akin to "the work of the devil". This (and a recent fondue of egg with cauliflower veloute and truffles- at Hibiscus, Ludlow) was a revelation. But where the hell does one get a supply of gull eggs from? Are they easy to come by ? Then onto the Pan fried lobster medallions with a white port and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne. This dish was absolutely stunning, the texture of the lobster was tender but with just a little bit of give, the flavour was essentially sweet and melded perfectly with the port sauce. This in turn, worked well with the minute slivers of carrot to give an additional texture and intermittent trace of heat from the ginger. But the sauce is, for me, what makes this dish. I spent an eon scooping it up with one of those sauce spoons, so much so, that one poor chap- who mistook my sated and semi-delirious gazing into the distance, as a sign of completion, was roundly fended off with the aforementioned spoon and my rabid eyes. After finishing, our dishes were whisked away -and herein lies my one small criticism of the night- our main courses arrived immediately the first courses had been removed. We could really have done with a reasonable break, but as I still had a corner to fill, so we ploughed on. I had the Pan fried John Dory with potato columns, served on a base of bouillabaisse soup enhanced with vanilla and served with an oyster tempura on top. The fish was well cooked, slightly blackened crisp skin, but still moist and actually tasting of the fish. To avoid it swimming in the bouillabaisse soup, it had been perched on top of four columns of tender fondant potato. The bouillabaisse soup was extremely good, yellow in colour and not too rich in flavour although I struggled to gain the hint of vanilla, within it. Accompanying the sauce were girolles and baby courgettes, not mentioned on the menu, but a welcome addition nonetheless. Finally, perched above the John Dory was a single oyster. This was given a splash of tabasco ( I think), then wrapped in spinach and coated in tempura batter before being fried. The kick of heat worked well with the oyster and the batter nice and light, but slightly prone to disintergrate- I saved this for my last mouthful. The missus has Medallions of monkfish, with langoustine tails and veal sweetbreads, served with a shellfish vinaigrette. What I thought was an unusual collection of ingredients, actually came together very well. She claimed the monkfish was the best she had tasted, but was slightly unsure of how it worked with the sweetbreads, I liked it, especially with the langoustine and the slightly astringent, but delicate, vinaigrette. To drink we had a fantastic Condrieu, very powerful aroma and colour, but not too daunting to drink. One of those wines that you really enjoy during your meal, but there is still lots left in the bottle when the final morsel of your main course has disappeared.(Or rather there was lots left, until I realised what we had done). It worked well with all four of the shellfish/fish courses we had ordered. I have forgotten the winemaker but it was in the £65/70 bracket. To follow, I went for the Peche gourmand , a collection of six of desserts. This included an exquisite pistachio crème brulee, vanilla ice-cream, a rhubarb set in Bonnezeaux wine jelly, which didn't really do anything for me but then I don't like rhubarb and rich chocolate mousse. My memory and the glass of Jurancon won't allow me to remember what the other dessert was. The wife had a normal sized portion of pistachio crème brulee, which enjoyed but which had her beaten , so naturally, I helped out. The service was as ever, superb; friendly, slick, professional, without ever being fawning. It never ceases to amaze me how when you get up to go to the bathroom, they seem to dart out of your way at an unnerving velocity, smiling as the go, and glancing perilously close to their oncoming colleagues, carrying/food wine etc, but never actually make contact with each other. As the wife was near to collapse, we asked for our tea and a (cheeky ) Kummel for me, to be served in our room. No problem again, off we went to bed. To awake the next morning for breakfast on the terrace, with freshly baked pain au chocolat, croissaints and freshly squeezed orange juice. All in all, we had a fantastic time, I urge any of you who have considered going but never got round to it, to do so. The pilgrimage to Bray will be worth it.

JD- Thanks for your tips. I went with the Borscht/ Duck salad option which was unusual but very good. The Borscht itself was very light, but full of flavour. The wife went for the Risotto option, you mentioned, which she wolfed down, I didn't get a look in. Amongst other dishes which were enjoyed were Globe artichoke with Parmesan, Seatrout( a bit dry ) , my seabass was very good and a fine foie gras starter. Went for the Macon recommended by Jan Moir , but found it a tad inspid, not a patch on the Crozes Hermitage ( white) and the Brouilly we also had. Thanks again Andy - Re your meal at Racine , you might find this intersting from Nicholas Lander- http://www.jancisrobinson.com/nl160.htm

Thanks very much to Andy Lynes for the article link and JD for the information. JD- As you have been there recently and eaten a selection of dishes, there is a fair likelehood a few of them may crop up on this Satuday's menu. Is there any dish you would particularly recommend? Andy- Yes should be great fun if a tad crippling financially, can you lend me a tenner?

Very Interesting Post Cabrales, thanks. We dined at all three earlier in March, which was a fantastic experience. Top of the heap for me was Hibiscus. Quite simply stunning food, perfectly timed and presented. Amongst the dishes we had on Claude Bosi's 9 course tasting menu, were: an appetizer of Fondue of egg with cauliflower veloute; Fricasse of snails in a wild garlic broth; langoustines with truffle butter,and foie gras with liquourice.A Fantastic piece of Glouscester Old spot with wonderful crackling to put the Mother in law's to shame, was also on offer. We ventured back there again three weeks ago, and had another superb meal (Started with the best Appetizer I have ever had- Foie Gras soup followed by amongst others, Turbot with baked melon! Odd but sublime) I will post a full review when time and grey cells permit. The Merchant House was next where I had Sweetbreads with potato and olive cakes, followed by his famous Steamed and then fried Duck. Enjoyable, but didn't make me want to weep like the Venison and Foie Gras dish I had there a few years back. Mr Underhill's has without a doubt the best location at the foot of Ludlow castle, and next to Dinham Bridge overlooking the Weir. The food is very good but I have to say not outstanding. A lovely piece of Brill was perfectly cooked tostart with and to follow Medallions of beef were served acutely pink, as they should be. The odd thing here is, as no doubt the many of you know, is that there is absolutely no choice whatsoever until the final dessert course. The thinking being to get the best possible produce on the day and then serve it everyone. (Very unusual concept, I only know of one other place that employs this technique Morston hall in Norfolk). We knew what to expect this time , but on our first trip there in 2000, I was deeply dissapointed. Isn't half the fun in dining out to peruse the menu and decide what you want? Anyway, the food was on that occasion very good, but when we asked as to why this was the case and why we had not been told there was no choice when booking, the rather terse response was "That's the way we have always done it"! In any case , those who haven't made this culinary trip should and by the sounds of it soon.

Its the wife's 40th this Saturday, so we are venturing to Alastair Little with a few friends. We went there a few years back for my 30th, but haven't been back since, eventhough we had a great meal that time. Has anyone been recently and what would you recommend to try? (Taking her away as a suprise, to The Waterside Inn the next day for their current Sunday Night promotion. So I should be nicely brassic by Monday.)

This article by Tracey Macleod may be of interest. Click here.. Its from what looks suspiciously like the the Waitrose Food Magazine site and seems to concur with a lot of what has already been written. Cabrales- "Err -- Maybe that contributed (or not) to why he had to "take inspiration" with respect to certain dishes from others." Posted on June 12 2002,08:57 ( I haven't quite worked out how to use the quote facility yet, sorry.) May I ask why the indignation at Mr Blumenthal allegedly "half inching" dishes from others? Aren't all chefs, be they self taught or not, gulity of a bit of cuilnary plagiarism?

Jay, Thanks for that, The Riverside was one place I had thought of. The venerable Mr Stein recommended it in one of his books and one would assume he knows his onions. The Black Country, crikey, I don't envy you that fate. But not, I think, quite as bad as when I venture up to see my parents next, in the culinary vacuum that is Rochdale.

Cabrales, If my grey matter serves me correctly, I think its called the Hinds Head Hotel. Except, I am pretty sure that it isn't actually a Hotel as they don't have any accomodation.

As the masses arrive in London to help celebrate the Queen's Jubilee next week, we will be heading in the opposite direction at high speed. First stop is the The Angel Inn (formerly The Grovesnor Arms) Hindon, Wiltshire and then onto The Fox Inn, Corscombe, Dorset. Would someone be kind enouigh to offer a few suggestions for lunch, in either of those two counties please? Or even what to try at the above two places, if you have eaten there recently. Last stop on this mini tour is the excellent Hibiscus, Ludlow. where we had a truly superb meal back in March. So should be ok with that destination, (rather sadly The Merchant House is closed). Many thanks Bapi

No I haven't, but did look into the possibility of staying elswhere in Bray to enjoy a meal at The Fat Duck. Frankly, the photograph in the Johansens guide of the Monkey Island Hotel scared the hell out of me. Imelda Marcos' boudoir would be prefferable, or am I being too harsh? See for yourself .click here The other Hotel in Bray is the Chauntry House Hotel, also on the Johansens website . But both are in the same price bracket, if not more expensive than TWI

Gosh, how the devil did you find out? There I was tucking into Roast marrowbone and parsley salad the one minute and the next, waking up in a bathtub full of ice. That Fergus Henderson bloke will be hearing from me shortly? I jest- haven't had the pleasure of dining there yet, but I have been leaving hugely unsubtle clues around the flat - copy of GFG open at the appropriate page, Restaurant Game article etc.- in regard of fast approaching birthday in June. Has anyone out there been and what would you recommend apart from the above dish - which I will definitely be trying. Re: The Trinity, other recommendations are Fish cake with a poached egg served on top, Roquefort and spiced pear salad and hot bitter chocolate mousse.

My recommendation would be to stay in La Tamise. That room shares a private balcony, on the first floor, with La Terrasse and offers a splendid view of the Thames. Your breakfast can be taken out on the balcony, the following day. Mathew- I agree, I recieved the same literature in the post and it seems to imply that the price is for the food , wine and the event, alone.

Snipster, I fully concur with the Countess, The Waterside Inn would be a truly memorable experience. Not that I have yet been to Le Gavroche( he writes pittifully hoping his better half will read this ) but I imagine the service and indeed, food there would be on a par with that at The Waterside Inn. However, the advantage of the The Waterside Inn is the stunning setting, by the Thames. Imagine, sipping a glass of chilled champagne, sat nestling under their willow tree , watching the world go by on the river as you peruse the menu. Then enjoying their remarkable food ,wine and service. ( See earlier entry re: their signature Lobster dish). Again fully agree that a nights stay would be in order, it is your 30th afterall. I would recommend La Tamise, which shares a private balcony( with La Terrasse ( I think) overlooking the Thames. Have look at their website click here, for their special offers, which may appeal. Bapi PS - If you do go, be sure to talk to the Manager there, Diego Masciaga(sic!!). He is without a doubt one of the most professional chaps I think I have ever met. Nothing is too much trouble for him ( and the other staff for that matter)

Jeremysco, Gosh, you lucky blighter. Closing a deal, eating at Le Gavroche, Le Manoir et al, and getting paid as well! What in life, could be better? I too have always had a keen interest in food but didn't quite get the foodie obsession I now have, until a life affirming meal at The Merchant House , Ludlow way back in 1999. Scallops with Corriander and Lentils, followed by the pinkest venison , with foie gras. I'm afraid I have Shaun Hill to thank for my ever diminishing disposable income and the fact that I had to sell a kidney to fund my eating out (the last bit is a slight embellishment). Pray tell, how was your meal at The Trinity? Bapi( aka - Pallab)

I would Andy, but its the oddest thing. Every photograph we have ever had taken together, once developed, only shows my image and not hers. She doesn't even cast reflection in the mirror... Go figure ? Oh dear. I appear to be turning in to Les Dawson.

I must admit that I have not eaten at either of these places (yet), but I understand that the food at The Capital is excellent .Click here.Capital Hotel The other recommendation is The Square, where the food is supposed to be "progressive modern fench", whatever that is. My sister-in-law( god bless her little cotton socks ) said she ate one of the best meals she has ever had there. Out of town - I have dined at Hambleton Hall twice and very miuch recommend the whole experience. The food under the direction of Aaron Patterson is outstandingly good. Clear precise flavours throughout each of the courses. Favourite dishes have included a Nage of Seafood , and the missus had a dish of quite exquiste veal adorned with thinly sliced truffles.The staff are superb as well and helped to orchestrate a suprise for my missus ,who knew we were lunching there, but not that we were staying and dining there that evening as well. Again, out of town The Waterside Inn, Bray, Berks. The food here is consistently good, albeit expensive. If you go, try the signature dish of Lobster in a ginger and port sauce. Apparently , they keep the poor little blighters in a specially designed tank and only despatch them once the dish has been ordered. The result -astonishingly sweet and tender flesh. I would sell the missus to eat this dish again. £50 anyone?

Jeremysco You are quite right. The Watson's did use to run Hintlesham Hall and also The Fox and Goose at Fressingfield, I believe. Ruth Watson is an accomplished food writer and regular contributor to Good Food Magazine and the Daily Mail. We have stayed there three times and eaten there about five times in the last year and have found the food there to be excellent on each occasion. Things to look out for and try are; Scallops marinated in Mirin (blooming marvellous) and fresh local oysters from Butley( just down the road). Our most recent visit was in March to celebrate a friend's 30th Birthday.( We , er, perhaps kept the Bar staff up a little too late on that particular visit) Although not on the menu, they went out of their way to have the aforementioned scallops, put back on the menu especially. Also had an excellent steak there, served with the sort of chips cooked in something you know isn't terribly good for you, but that taste so good, you really don't care. They have managed to create a genuinely excellent operation with their ethos to provide good food at reasonable price, without a hint of the pretension that pervades through some other Hotels we have stayed and eaten at. I also heartily recommend staying over there as well, great rooms with not an atom of chintz to be seen. Have a good meal and let us know how you got on.