Bapi

I am not sure it is wise to contribute to this thread as I am in denial in regard how much I have spent over the years- but £ 676 for four lunching at the Waterside Inn springs to mind, as does a recent Hibiscus meal at £650. I won't mention the two night stay at Manoir, entailing lunch and dinner both days, as that really will make me cry.

uh oh crash helmet where are you ← You'll need more than a crash helmet my friend Glad you are on the case Thom. We just need to find out whether tax exile Marshall will be in the UK for more than a week, in between his fifteen annual European soujorns, to make this happen.

Cheers Harters- a nice review and welcome. A reprobates lunch here has been mooted and having read your write up I am certainly keen to give it a try.

You haven't seen me for a few months. I no longer have a belly Gary. And that's a little rich coming from you. I have seen Sam's photo of you on Facebook. You know the one where your cheeks seem to have incorporated two medium sized Butterball turkeys. I agree though- three courses isn't going to quite cut it is it? Still, that leaves more room for a mid afternoon snack before dinner.

Grant, Just beyond Aylesbury is Long Crendon where we had a good meal at The Angel, although I will admit this was a few years back. I also like the sound of La Chouette in Dinton run by a Belgian chap (HP17 8UW). Granted this is a tad further than the 15/20 mile limit you specified, but it may be worth it. If you are going as far as Long Crendon- then you may as well try The Charles Napier at Chinnor or the pub at Christmas Common. The name escapes me, but it was always rammed and I am sure that Duncan and Judy B, whose stomping ground this is, can help. A bit closer to home and just down the M1 is the rather nice little town of Harpenden, where we nearly moved to. I think that Novelli chap has a pub nearby- but that is by no means a recommendation! Cheers

Mmmm, Thom et al. Are you chaps thinking what I am thinking?

I can't find anything to suggest that it has lost a star...see this. Nor that it has changed hands. But I have to agree with Robin though.. the Vicarage, which was not under their ownership the last time we stayed, but looks like a wonderful place to stay. I am intrigued though Robin, did Ludlow itself with Le Becasse not tempt you? We had a couple of sublime lunches back in March at the Bosi's Bell Inn at Yarpole. I sampled the best Guinea fowl of my life there. It was cooked sous-vide and then pan fried to crisp up the skin. Utterly delicious. Oh and re Cheeky Munkey's erudite musings about Mr Underhill's. I agree, she is the reason we will never return. To the mix I would this potential newcomer Fishmore Hall, as sadly Dinham Hall and Overton Grange seem a little past their sell buy date and no-one either here, nor in the town, ever recommends them to us. I have yet to try it and although we are back for the Food Festival this year, I am not sure we will get the chance either- but hopefully one of you guys will.

Amen.

Just a heads up as the Gherkin meal is being screened tonight. I haven't looked but would assume it is in either the 6pm or 6.30pm slot. Cheers

"Wye Valley Asparagus confit in Salted Butter, then lighted smoked, Crushed Soft-boiled Eggs with Spring Truffle, Tamarillo Powder" "I think you got that backwards: when we were there they were taking the asparagus round after smoking but before plating up: that way the table and mosr of the restaurant got the hit of oak smoke as it was uncovered. Great theatre." Hell's teeth, you are quite right Duncan. In mitigation, it was two months ago and I am obviously losing my marbles. Right, better get on with Sat Bains review over the weekend.

Ok, it’s horribly late - so sue me…….. Well it has taken us a while to get down to the new Hibiscus but I am delighted we did. I have to admit we were very excited at the prospect of seeing its new incarnation but a tad apprehensive in view of the fondness we had about Hibiscus as it was in Ludlow and the, well, quite frankly ludicrous number of meals we have enjoyed there over the years. Our first stop on our rare grown up night out was to meet our friends at the bar under Roka on Charlotte street. A recommendation from Claire to enjoy a quick cocktail or two and rather nice it was too. Just make sure that you are correctly attired, i.e. preferably in a rugby kit, as tackling the staff to the floor is the only freakin way to get a drink, pay the bill etc. A quick cab ride and we were on Madddox street in no time. Now I have read some churlish comments about the interior, so I was intrigued to know what it would look like and I am delighted to say that the detractors are indeed talking bollocks. What a lovely space it is and absolutely packed on a Monday night . I especially liked the way they have subtly emulated shades of the old Hibiscus with the wood panelling , yet incorporated a more modern note with the slate on the far wall. The lasses loved the chandelier above the central serving station too. To start we had some classic gougeres and comped champagne, which always makes it taste infinitely better. “Oeuf en Cocotte”, Puy Lentil Veloute, Coconut Milk, Toasted Brioche I have not had this dish for a while and was delighted to have it again . The creamy egg, rich veloute and sweetish coconut melded to give a perfect start. Wye Valley Asparagus confit in Salted Butter, then lighted smoked, Crushed Soft-boiled Eggs with Spring Truffle, Tamarillo Powder Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Henri Bourgeois, Loire Valley A nice touch was that they bring and present the asparagus to the table before whisking it away to be smoked. Eggs again in this course but very enjoyable and a clever mixture of tastes. The wine choice was excellent too. Ravioli of Spring Onion & Lime, Roast Cevenne Onion, Broad Bean & Mint Puree Petaluma Riesling “Hanlin Hill” 2006, Clare Valley A variation of the dish that made Matthew Fort weep a few moons ago. Very pleasant indeed and yet again a superb wine choice from Simon. Warm Jellied Eel, Pickled Granny Smith Apple, Smoked Eel Macon-Verze 2006, Domain Leflaive, Burgundy Having lived in London for years and having never got round to trying jellied eels is somewhat of a sin. So to then have my first taste in a Michelin starred restaurant has set me up a for a fall with any future attempt to eat it. A delicate and pleasant enough dish with the intense eel counterbalanced by the apple. My only slight disappointment was getting about six bloody bones to er, fish out as it were. Braised Elwy Valley Mutton, Brittany Octopus, Lychee Salad, Mutton & Rosewater Jus “Ma Maison” Pinot Noir 2006, Leung Estate, Martinborough The mutton was utterly delicious- truly it was as indeed was the octopus and lychee salad. But the latter was such a delicate beast it needed to be the star of the show and the mutton rather overshadowed it we thought. Don’t misunderstand me- it was delicious to eat. Savoury Ice Cream of Foie Gras, Warm Emulsion of Brioche, Balsamic Vinegar Caramel I Capitelli, Roberto Anselmi 2005, Veneto A minor paddy attack on my part at this stage. Having looked at the menu when we arrived , panic set in when I realised that this signature dish was not on the menu. Having eulogised about this dish to our friend Joe at length I though he was going to be disappointed at its omission. But bless his heart, Simon stepped up, disappeared into the kitchen and reappeared all smiles. We were saved, Claude would rustle some up for us. It was as good as ever, but sadly there is just never enough of it. Slow-grilled Pyrenean Kid, Fricasse of Soya Beans & Baby Turnips, Lemon Thyme Jus, Sheppard’s Pie Chambolle Musigny 1999, Domaine Bertheau, Burgundy For all four of us it was our first taste of kid, and a perfect picture of spring was supplied on the plate. The little ribs being delicious, the vegetables a joy, but the star of the show was the sublime Sheppard’s pie of this delicate meat. Wow, the sort of dish one would want for their last meal (preferably eaten off of Kylie- but that’s a personal thing.) The Musigny deserves a special mention as it was utterly gorgeous . Selection of British and French Cheeses Quinta de Vale Dona Maria 2005, Douro Valley Sweet Celeriac & Frozen Raspberries White Asparagus Tart, Black Olive, White Chocolate & Fresh Goat’s Cheese Ice Cream Muscat de St Jean de Minervois 2005, Languedoc The girls preferred the pre-dessert to the main pudding., but I rather liked it unusual as it was and you can see what Claude was aiming for. By the way, why this predilection to use olives in desserts.? Anthony did it a few years back with a pineapple dessert and Sat Bains did it last week, pairing slivers of them with a delightful chocolate pudding. A special mention re Simon who is doing sterling work. The wine flight was truly superb. Put it this way, our friend Joe who having worked in the industry for some years (despite his bloody youth) , knows his stuff. He had the top wallet bashing wine flight at the Fat Duck last year , but thought dish for dish and wine for wine, the flight here was better judged. Overall, a great evening and it was lovely to see some old faces especially Simon and Sally and of course Claude. Sadly we didn‘t see Claire as she was away drinking tequila slammers with Heston et al at the 50 Best restaurant do that evening. We are delighted for them, they and their team have worked very hard and we wish them every success in the future.

You beat me to it Duncan. We were there on Friday for my birthday too. Will write it up shortly, but as I still have to write up Hibiscus it may be a while. A great meal, though and different to yours in places. Mmm, cornish sole with veal marrow and asparagus. Bloody sublime.

Spending a shitload of our son's inheritance at Sat Bains last night And bloody good it was too. But hell, I bloody wish I had that sort of dosh to throw at him-they are on fire and no doubt it will work out very well for them. Very good luck to them. Will quiz Mr Flinn on his meglomania at the Taste of Leeds do tomorrow.

I nearly rang you yesterday Thom. We were in town for a certain gig at the Man City ground last night. Had a quick beer at Trof and was tempted by This and That- the curry cafe next door. Is it any good? ( We ended up at Croma by the way for what was probably my quickest sit down meal of my life. At my behest I should add, as we were running late.)

Now if you think the Alma was good, we will definitely have to go to The Mill Bank pub next time and then you will be jealous. Great to see you again and to meet your charming family. Rosie sends her apologies again by the way. Re El Gato Negro- I am delighted you enjoyed it so much but not really suprised, he writes somewhat complancently. The chaps are really top of their game at the moment and deserve all the plaudits they get. I look forward to our lunch in a few weeks time, when you can eat the other half of the menu. Oh, and re my earlier comment the Dos Hermanos blog. Bless him, he did post about it here.

Agreed, that dreadful foam looks like a cum shot. well, as we are grown up now thom i suggest a lovely long lunch at friache, into town, and well, let's see what happens.... ← If we must, I am in. "let's see what happens...." This worries me though......

Rule number one. NEVER come of the sauce for any length of time before meeting up with this lot. To say I suffered the next day is entirely an understatement, Damm that Robin and his unfeasibly strong beer. Put it this way, I fell asleep on the train instantly, woke up in a fright and then lurched off the train to find I had disembarked six stations to early. Thank god for my cab friend, who picked me up. Re the food. The tartare was poorly thought out sadly and serving it with half a hard boiled quail's egg instead of a raw yolk is just silly. My main however was very good indeed. Excellent crisped skin sea bass served in a lovely seafood bisque with scallops and langoustines. The chocolate fondant on the other hand was, well, just a chocolate sponge really. An excellent day out apart from the risible smoked beer Robin made us try. There is more chance of me having vigorous sex with Kylie than anyone ever getting me to put that odious stuff to my lips again.

As you would expect Erica, it aint cheap and it's changed slightly in that you can have the deal on Wednesday and Thursday nights too. Details here. Enjoy.

He is the Sous chef for the series according to olive magazine.

I am afraid not. We have been a couple of times since, but as I have a written about the Inn at length, I did not post about it. If you do go please report back.

Blimey that risotto sounds as if it's worth the journey alone. Nice one. I also agree re the Good Food Guide. Odd looking Chef/ Owners in Padstow who can not be arsed sending their GFG forms back aside , it does seem as though they fucked up fairly badly this year. To be voted the best and then disappear seems more than just an oversight. Take my local tapas restaurant by way of another example. Glowing reviews nationally and locally this year as well as an award from Hardens for best Yorkshire newcomer etc and yet it fails to appear in the GFG. Go figure.

Gary is absolutely right. Apologies. Paul have you considered the Waterside Inn for a Sunday night stay? They do a rather good deal for that particular night which I have bleated on about on at length on The Waterside Inn thread.

See above. Pedant.

Robert Thompson ( ex head at Winteringham Fields) is now the chef and bloody good his food looks too. You can see G Schwab's influence in his dishes. Small article, about him in the April 08 edition of Olive magazine.

Edit- Whoops. Rule Number 1. Always cut and paste into the relevant thread. Now posted on the Cliveden thread. ......I actually thought Glynn's dishes have looked rather good with the possible exception of the pike dish. The trifle on the otherhand, I thought looked rather good. I had no idea he was such and inventive chef, which I suppose is the point of appearing on such programmes. To bring their food to the wider public's attention. Excellent to see Sat and Glynn sparring (and mildly bitching ) at each other and I look forward to watching tonights episode on iplayer later tonight, when everyone has gone to bed and left me to some peace.