LindaK

This finally dawned on me, too--and sadly is what has made me cross soapstone off my wish list. My kitchen is dark, always will be, even with the planned new window. A drawback of living in the midst of urban density. Fortunately--or not--I discovered concrete, which can be any color or hue you can imagine, and I adore the texture and feel, too boot. Fifi, I've seen your "Defense of Formica" posts on other threads, and have appreciated your sensible perspective. It's all I've ever had in my own kitchens and I have no complaints, either. So I suppose it means I've fallen prey to Trophy Kitchen Syndrome (TKS) that I am considering spending a huge sum of money on a material that Daddy-A cautions against. It has less to do with performance than with aethetics. Like an expensive piece of art. Can't afford it but it makes my life beautiful. Worth the ramen noodles. Now it is a a battle between TKS and my budget. I'm already on board with Ikea cabinetry to save for the range and countertops, my two potential splurges.

Chris, next time a Chinese friend of mine makes a trip to Providence to buy furniture from his favorite antique dealer, I'm going to tag along and take up your Lucky Garden challenge! It looks like a good bet if your pictures are to be believed. Everything looked familiar but the pork belly--was that on a dim sum cart or did you order it off the menu?

My understanding is that closed burners adversely affect flame (thus heat) distribution. Any comment on that from the pros on this site? I've never minded them, myself. The BlueStar is indeed the new incarnation of the non-commercial Garland. It's on my shortlist for when I finally get around to renovating the kitchen. The limited distribution network is a little worrisome, though--I wonder about service.

I'd go along with the Parrish, I like the sandwiches so long as I don't have to wait too long for a seat. But the allure of the Cottonwood escapes me. Overpriced Tex-Mex, which in Boston is pathetic by any standard. Two entirely different "low rent" favorites not far from the 4 Seasons: - up Tremont Street a few blocks, right on Bromfield to the Silvertone Bar and Grill. A basement bar. Don't go if you want a fancy wine list etc. But for "comfort food" and a reasonably-priced Malbec, go. - Behind the 4 Seasons, in Chinatown, try Penang, a Malaysian restaurant. I love the soups as well as the "taro pots." Cheap prices, yummy food, relaxed atmosphere.

Great blog, Chris. You could have just posted pics of that coffee machine and had me swooning. I have a stash of chorizo in my fridge from a recent excursion to an excellent Spanish deli in Queens, NYC. Your soup is a great inspiration. Any other ideas? But as a fellow New Englander, I'm embarrassed to admit that I've never eaten in Providence, unless you count the airport. Where to start?

Maggie, I must admit that after seeing the word "bowel" at the top of your essay, it took a few hits to eG before I clicked on the "read more" link. Not that there isn't a connection to food, but not the connection I generally want to read about in my spare time. But once I did, I couldn't stop reading. I wish I could write as well. I wish I always counted my blessings in the midst of my yuppie problems. Merci mille fois!

It's never too late on eG! In case you haven't noticed, many of us have been planning our new kitchen for a long, long time and still haven't begun...yet. I've reached the conclusion that there is no such thing as a (universally) perfect countertop material. It really is a trade-off between what you want functionally as well as aesthetically, and everyone's taste and needs vary. Not to mention budgets. In the end, the concrete v. soapstone debate may turn out to be academic for me if I decide to make the major plumbing moves I'm contemplating--in which case, I see laminate in my future.

Can't take credit for the comments...those belong to Philadining. However, if you are serious about flying in, we can let you know the next time we have some slots open. This has been a great thread. Thank you! I covet your breakfasts. Where is this breakfast thread people keep mentioning? I see the dinner thread but nothing about breakfasts. Does anyone know if there is anything further north akin to your Studio Kitchen? Maybe it's a reflection of local real estate prices, here in Boston I can't imagine the economics working. I'm jealous!

These are great recommendations. I esp. love No. 9 Park and Craigie. Since my budget rarely lets me venture into your category #1, I can't add anything there (though maybe would have included Mistral in that category--I wouldn't call it hip). Since my budget generally keeps me in your category #3, in Cambridge I would also suggest the Blue Room, Oleana, Salts, and Chez Henri. Rialto would be a slightly more high-end option. Re: OwnRewards recs, Dali is fun and delicious, but can be a long wait and usually very loud. Must be nice work to have places like this on your "to do" list, Busboy!

Has there ever been a demo or eGCI class on buttercream? I had a quick look over the pinned threads but didn't see one. Buttercream seems like a perfect candidate to me. There are many variations as well as basic technical information (temperatures, egg white: butter ratios, for example) where some detailed info would benefit both novices (me) as well as experienced pastry chefs. Not to mention pictures--I'd love to see one go from early "break" to emulsion. I have mixed experience with buttercreams and don't feel like I understand the "science" behind them to be consistently successful. Sorry if this is beyond the reach of this thread. Everyone's comments here are helpful but I would love something more systematic. note: edited because spell-check has made me lazy.

Wow. I've just resolved to start frequenting the dinner and breakfast threads, if you're a regular, Percyn. Thanks a lot, there goes the last of my free time. It would be great to learn more about Parsi, especially some advice on how a neophyte like me could learn to play with new spices and ingredients that you probably take for granted.

Your counters are beautiful, kiliki, just what I love about soapstone. Now I am really torn. I had a close encounter with some concrete this past weekend that left me totally enamoured. At an otherwise dull open studio group art show, someone was showing concrete--side tables inlaid with sea glass or agate, etc. as well as a simple concrete kitchen sink in apple gree. I loved it all, especially the simpler stuff. I asked the guy about some of the issues that have been raised here, esp. cracking and staining. I liked the fact that he didn't refute any of them, but made me feel confident that they weren't deal-breakers. Anyway, his web site is here Slab Lab Concrete but I've looked at the pictures, they don't do justice to how beautiful this material is.

Interesting. I've never heard of them or seen mention of them in Italian cookbooks. Where do you buy them? Mine is a slight French variation. I usually cook them for a lentil salad, with some carrots, onions, parsley,garlic, bay leaf, garlic in a light chicken broth--toss warm with a good vinaigrette, chopped parlsey and chives, and bacon lardons. My favorite flavor trick: stud the onion with a couple of whole cloves when cooking. They add a great spicy and aromatic quality to the lentils.

Lovely piece, busboy. It reminded me of an earlier thread on "therapeutic kitchen tasks," where I said more or less the same but not nearly so well.

Am I the only person who immediately thinks "what cheese should I be?" Me: roquefort. Somehow sweet and salty in the same bite.

Perhaps I missed this upthread, but what does this say about the popularity and influence of Zagat's? Anonymity but not necessarily knowledge abounds. I realize their review is not the product of "a" critic but multiple critics. How influential is this to most restaurants? I can't imagine the high end places care what their Zagat ratings are. Perhaps we need to differentiate who reviewers are writing for--various classes of restaurants (loaded word, I know, but it fits) and their respective patrons.

I don't have the book handy--it's on loan to a friend planning a big wedding cake--so I might not have the names correct, but there is a recipe for a chocolate chiffon cake that I adore. Light but with serious chocolate flavor, it's great for using up extra egg whites. I've also had great luck with a chocolate souffle cake that she recommends for a roulade. Roll it up with softened vanilla ice cream and a raspberry sauce, yumm. The grand marnier cake is also excellent. I have not had much luck with her genoise recipes. Not sure why, but they are always leaden. Now I want to try the banana cake and the waffles!

Oddly enough, my New Orleans memory is based on community, hospitality, and generosity and less so on the food or drink…well, maybe the drink. I’ve been there only once, sadly, about 10 years ago, for an academic conference. Not exactly debaucherie. But I went a couple of days ahead of time to get a taste of the city on my own. I don’t have vivid memories of any single meal or experience. What I remember is drifting about in an environment that seemed somehow mysterious and full of shadows. I didn’t seek out “name” restaurants but always stumbled on delicious food. After dinner, on my own, the clubs I wandered into somehow had great music, and I always felt like I was among friends. What sticks in my mind, though, was my last night there. End of day drinks with an academic acquaintance and his partner, who invited me to join them and local friends for the evening. And here it starts. A quiet drive through dark city neighborhoods bordered by cemeteries. Tropical plants and twisted climbing vines everywhere. More cocktails, in a humble shotgun house with unfamiliar architecture, vivid color and art that made it feel straight from a Tim Burton movie. People I’d never met but who made me feel like part of the family. Great seafood in an unpretentious neighborhood place that looked onto the dark waters of the Gulf, everyone sharing food and drink like it was Thanksgiving. Later, dancing to zydeko in some dive gay bar and never lacking for a partner, though I was probably the only straight person there. The ride back to my hotel in the back of someone’s SUV, everyone full of jokes and stories and these strangers laughing at my lame contributions. At the hotel door, hugs goodbye from people whose names I can’t remember and that I haven’t seen since. I’ve been thinking a lot about them this past week and pray that they’re okay.

Please do. I trust fifi's expertise here but I'm still having a hard time letting go of the concrete option.

Thanks for starting this thread...I'm one of those who digressed on the original Corian thread to ask about soapstone and concrete. Fifi, it sounds like you have nothing good to say about concrete. So can anyone explain its popularity? I love the look but don't want to invest in anything both stupid and expensive. As for soapstone, like jgarner53, I like the soft quality of soapstone over the brittle feel I get from granite. But I have two concerns: on the functional side, architect friends warn about how soft or easily stained soapstone is, but so much that I read says otherwise. What gives? on the aesthetic side, I look at various soapstone fabricator web sites and there is often an "oiled" and "unoiled" photo. My personal preference is for the lighter, unoiled photo. How important is the oiling?

It's hard to beat the fig-gorgonzola-proscuitto trilogy... but for the simplest dessert ever, try sliced figs over good vanilla ice cream, driizzed with honey.

Johnny, your fried clam throw-down on the New England forum got me started on my own local "clam crawl" this summer--though I've yet to post any pictures and reviews (sorry!). Looking forward to more challenges here. Please include recipes!

Interesting conversation. I think it's worth distinguishing an "expert" from a "professional." One is not necessarily the other. It makes me wonder what folks think about the professional who goes to great lengths to dine incognito. The most high profile example that I know about is from Ruth Reichl's most recent memoir, "Garlic and Sapphires : The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise." I'll admit that I haven't read it--though I heard many a radio interview--and probably won't unless I hear a thunderous recommendation here. I certainly understand and appreciate the premise. But the lengths that I understand Reichl went to disguise herself seem extreme to me, even a little creepy. While I imagine service and other elements of a meal would be affected by the recognition of a professional critic, can a kitchen really change its fundamental quality and nature on a moment's notice? If the answer is yes, then perhaps chefs do "run scared" of whomever they know has a captive audience, print or web.

Legal may never be the best, but it's always at least good. Can't say I go often but when entertaining tourist friends who suddenly decide they want chowder, oysters, fried clams, etc. there is usually a LS nearby. and we're usually pretty happy with what we get. For those of you mentioning Jasper White's, I assume you're talking about his eponymous high end place (which sadly I never tried, not living here at that time). Now he's down-scaled. What do you think about the food at Summer Shack as opposed to LS? There are three now, not sure if Jasper has ambitions to compete with the LS empire.

I'm one of the few people it seems who has not had much luck with this book. I bought it on the strength of reviews and user raves but have been almost universally disappointed. It made for a great read, especially the forward, but once I tried the recipes I was either underwhelmed or found them unreliable. That happens to me only rarely, so it's still a puzzle. The restaurant is great, so I had high hopes.