Timh

update June 15 Well folks, I've finally decided to move on and have accepted a opening chef position for a small enoteca/trattoria on the south shore, here in MA. The past few months have been difficult and emotionally draining both personally and professionally as I bare the burdens of a divorce and custody battle and then recievng no support(only pressure) from work. I was fortunate in that i had a few opportunities presented to me, and it came down to either New Orleans or staying local. Both are new ventures and Italian , so staying near my children was the deciding factor. Anyway, I have offered to stay(a reasonable amount ) and even help them find a replacement for me and train them. They are basically only concerned with someone being ther to cook their next meal, but I also think the shock of a new person in the house must be a little unsettling as I've held the position for 7+ years. So now its summer and the kids are out, I never know who's going to be around for lunch or dinner. Zero communication(as its always been). I'll come in and be prepping a lunch and everyone will leave and say nothing, or when I come in, there will be a crowd of kids and adults wanting lunch. Dinner is the same, its maddening. But I will continue to do my best and leave on a high note. So I may thread my experiences of opening a new restaurant if I have the time and energy. Thanks everyone for letting me share(vent).

The old Time-Life series, Creole and Acadian volume is interesting, has some recipes I've not seen anywhere else, and really cool old pics of some of the giants of New Orleans cuisine. Paul Prudhommes first book is a great one too. I've got a notebook with several menues from the likes of Brennan's, Antoines, Galatoire's, Commanders, dating from the 60's and 70's. averitable greatest hits of New Orleans cooking, and the prices are hysterical.

Great news! If I may, I want to recommend two places to refresh yourself while in Houma. 1921 for crawfish, oysters, shrimp and crab. Christiano's for Italian(localized), the young chef there ,Michael Chancey, is doing great work there, and Christiano, besides being the consumate host, can better advise you on who'll have the best oysters and such at that time. Tim Haws, Chef previously of New Orleans and Houma and now lost in New England

Pan, 15 + years ago when I was working in a tiny kitchen in Paris, we used the thermomix for warm emulsifications(soups)and savory custards(really more like savory creme brulees). We also would make fresh sauces with liquids(fresh juiced whatever or clarified stocks) and ant number of vegetabes or fruits,even intense herb"soups". The ability to regulate the heat just so,and at the last possible moment allowed for some amazing "fresh" flavor and textures.

Okay, now I'm feeling like I did, in fact, fall off the turnip truck last Monday. What return on the investment do you (or anyone else) feel is due a chef who cooks at the Beard house? ← As I see it(from a professional point of view) chefs cooking there hope to expose themselves to the NY food media and so called movers and shakers. In turn hoping to gaener some or more media coverage and more business. For many, all theyend up with is a few event photos on the wall.

For interesting food and great(sexy atmosphere) I recommend starting at Toro, eating a few bites, then go up the street to B&G Oyster, then, walk down to The Butcher Shop. Very cool, great food, intimate yet convivial.

After a dozen or so beers, just before Kermit Ruffins, I can only think of that cheese bread, and a couple of crawfish pies.

I think this is a great idea and comming from Donald, I'm sure will be a smash. I'm a big fan of his vision as well a a friend.

As a cook who cooks at a high level (at least for the area I'm located in), I'll say this: why care if you've insulted a few B-list chefs (or even the almighty Thomas) if you've got someone like Alain Ducasse in your cornor. And regardless of what he said in the book, the guy can cook, you don't become the Chef de Cuisine of a Ducasse restaurant if you can't cook. From what I've heard about the fine dining restaurant Country (not the cafe), the food is excellent, and it will be successful. ← Just being a good cook is not enough, hell, there are fantastic new cooks produced everyday. But what separates good cooks from great chefs are (aside from management skills) are intangibles like maturity, the ability to keep ego in check, mental stability, physical and mental stamina, consistency, etc..

I really enjoy the shows, they are the only food/travel tv I watch. And funny as hell, even when its not supposed to be.

My humble suggestion, go to any of the fore mentioned places, eat and have fun, then ask the waitstaff where they recommend to have a drink or eat. They are more inclined to recommend local places, great food or great atmosphere , or both. Its just a more direct line to the end results.Especially Franks place(Brigtens') they are the best ambassadors for the local scene.

In Shreveport, if you see a Southern Made donut shop, stop immediately and get some(they have a lighted sign when just made). They are great fresh, tradtional donuts.

I can't recommend the wine bar 'Bacchanal' enough. Its the funkiest organic business i've seen in a while, typical N.O., and you'll probably mingle with staff from Lillet, August,et al there. Its across from the Naval Station uptown. (the chef from defunct Marisol does weekend outdoor grill menues there in their garden/courtyard) I always frequented the Vietnamese restuarant in Chalmette, Duong Phong.

During my culinary school time in Charleston, I became fascinated by the Gullah tradition and the historical culinary repetoire. I was fortunate to dine in some private homes with Gullah cooks and sample some of the distinct foods that have become "lowcountry' cuisine. John Taylor, at the time the owner of Hoppin' John's(the coolest culinary bookstore ever to exist) was a readily accessable reference for all that was traditional there. Rice perloo is also a classic gullah dish that is still found relatively intact in many home there.

The local store near me(Bellingham, MA) explained to me that they have to order in bulk quantities, and if they think they cant sell it , wont do it to benefit one customer. I've also inquired about pork bellies, veal and beef cheeks, even lamb neck. i am at the conclusion that they are a big lie. The produce here NEVER changes, its the same stuff 365(hence the logo). I've requested favas and was told not possible, and then bought them at Stop&Shop. They are basically posers.

This represents the perfect example of the complete disconnect our society has with food. Oh yes its oh so trendy to sit in the hot new place and eat whatever is presented;squab liver, pork belly, cheeks from whatever, most only want to eat it and tell everyone but god forbid they actually take a moment from their precious lives and learn exactly what it is that they ate and where it came from, and the process it took to get it on their plate. But hey, its not cool or neccesary. All thats required is the ability to pay for it and then exhort their amazing discovering.

Age only matteres if it hinders your ability to perform the job. Aside from the trendy spots, where is more about looks than service, i've worked with older servers, and frequented places staffed with older service staff(at those places it was about the food , not the social xrays) One of the younger girls I worked with was asked by a insensitve patron what was she aspiring to be when she got older, her response was,"an older waitress". Good service is what its all about.

He's resurfaced in a weekend outdoor gig at a REALLY funky little winebar called Baccanal,(across the street from the Naval Base). he apparently runs a theme of "world street food". The menue looked interesting along wiht the whole operation.

I have also just returned from a week split between New orleans and Houma. We ate at Herbsaint and Lillet(I've cooked with Donald and John before), apps at Emerils, and RioMar. The next day Martinique(my friend i was with owns the place). It was a Monday and was surprised at all of the places closed that night(August, Peristyle, Alberti's, etc.) In Houma, we ate at Christiano's annd the Y-Bar(both owned by my same friend) as well as great crawfish(5$/4 lb order) and perfect oysters at 1921. The young chef at Christiano's is really pushing the envelope especially for Houma(ex. a bruschetta of gorganzola, dried figs, and white chocolate), and at Y-bar on Wed. nites a nother young chef puts out a 7 choices "tapas" style menu thats really progressive and yet fits well with the wine bar. My friend participated in animal rescue immediately after the storm and took me thru the neighborhoods. Seeing it live and up close, i can't even begin to describe the devastation, the vastness. Leaving the Bywater, going over the bridge and looking back at a birdseye view is a mental snapshot i wont ever forget. I forgot to add that we also spent some time at Mimi's(a bar) in the Marigny.

While living in Kurume, I traveled to Kagoshima where Basashi Sashimi is a specialty. In addition to the standard cut, we also had the heart, and imho it was the best cut. Very tender, meaty flavor. I had horse in France afterward, but its the sashimi that i go back to in my memory.

Per the origional topic(I think), are we talking about the rib eye and the outer strip? I always understood if the strip ws remove the "eye" was called a club cut.

I use the piece for many preparations, some of which are a ragu, any sort of braise(think a really good short rib), and grinding for really great burgers.

Oh please share the recipe ← Cromesque of Crawfish 3# of fresh crawfish 1# unsalted butter 1 tbsp chopped garlic 1 Tbsp shopped parsley 1 tsp cayenne(or less, i like mine spicey) salt/pepper 1 lemon Bring a large pot of water to boil, in another deep pot put crawfish in and pour boiling water over them, let sit for 5 min. Drain and remove heads(save for other use) Peel the tails, add to mixer with butter, parsley cayenne, s/p, and a squeeze of 1/2 the lemon, Mix until well combined. Taste and adjust. Spread mixture in plastic lined tray to about 1/2 inch thick, and chill untill set. Unmold, and cut into 1/2 squares, keeping them chilled Set up breading process- flour, egg wash, breadcrumbs,tray do this process 3 times, chilling after each pass thru the breading. Store in refridgerator. Deep fry at 350 untill golden and serve. Its a labor intensive process, but worth the effort.

Cool , glad you enjoyed. Quite addictive no?

At one point when I was living in New Orleans and during conversations with a local SOS activist, I proposed the radical idea of creating cafeterias in each project development, the same as any college. The benefits would be resident involvement, job training, consistent nutritional meals, potential reduction in food stamp expense, etc...