akwa

btw the menu and the presentations look like bouley with some spanish ingredients, like many other restaurants whose alum stem from bouley, all the compositions are textbook bouley, like many at other great restaurants like blue hill, cru, (dare i say gilt, or would that be bouley and gagnaires love child?lol)

in addition i think immediately of this, gagnaire and bras when i look to el bulli i think that american chefs are tending to claim influence from spain, but i would be curious to see where the converse is true the only and notable exceptions i can think of are wylie/garcia santos, and sort of american themed alimentaria/madrid fusion; these are phenomenons of the recent 24 months bux?

i think that both adrias would agree that maximin was the single initial and greatest influence many examples can be cited i dont know of one spanish chef that has even alluded to being influenced by american cooking I'm not so sure about contemporary Spanish chefs crediting American cooking more than French cuisine, Bux. Michel Bras is a reference for many of them, clearly in the case of Berasategui and Aduriz. Adria's ground-breaking dish in 94, which many people himself included point as the dish which opened the way in his cooking, the menestra en texturas or textured vegetable panaché, is at the same time a deconstruction of a traditional dish as is linked with the garguillou from Bras. That said, tere seems to be consensus that the States will lead the next gastro wave eventually. Peru ranks high too in those bets. Nonetheless, WD-50 is a restaurant that could exist in Spain without anyone noticing anything particular about it. Blue Hill, to some extent, would be in the same category. Since I haven't dined at Ureña, I don't know if that would be the case for them. What's your take on that, Bux? ←

its pretty outrageous to ban something before it is understood rather than analyze the process and make a conclusion for sure there is risk in preparing sous vide foods, just as there is risk in using any foods, generally the lack of oxygen makes for a safer and cleaner environment, not to mention more orderly and efficient. when sous vide pork bellies are thrown in the garbage but pork bellies in a lexan with covering 6 to 8 inches higher are considered valuable, then the process is flawed. unfortunately it seems like a transparent attempt to increase revenue by declaring a new offense effective immediately without any announcement publication or training; the only motivation can be revenue; it is easier to fine someone for doing something you dont know how to do than to learn how and educate people how to do it properly. what a disgraceful sham.

by the way, grey mullet, as opposed to red, and also called rouget, even looks off ; when gently cooked, these fish flesh do not color and therefore appear off purple to grey wg

other people have mentioned that to me as well, that the review actually was positive i assume they mean discounting brunis bias vs "ag?" style, and gilts ambitions yes its the same restaurant and the cooking should be excellent i hate to bring up the old dirt but the rouget thing is killing me; knowing paul and his cuisine and his tendencies, i would be amazed if the rouget wasnt seasoned with its own liver; for me one of the best flavors from the sea, but like sea urchin, monkfish liver and other delicacies, also quite fishy. it is not impossible for a chef to serve inferior product, but it is also not impossible for consumers not to really understand what they are eating.

Will is selling Alginate and Calcium Chloride??? That's above & beyond the call of duty, eh? Awesome ← Indeed he is and in reasonably sized packages. ← I'm going to have to see if I can do a mail order. As BryanZ points out, both items are kind of hard and a pain to track down online or elsewhere. ← with pleasure wg

not to take anything away from telepan and the orchard i think the people that are really grousing are the team at gilt even for a futurist it is hard to compare in any way thoughts?

for me the best restaurant to open in nyc last year great ingredients and very tasty pigeonholing the type of cuisine is kind of useless, especially considering the heritage and training of the chef french japanese korean chinese is not a gimmick if it is an honest product the food uses better ingredients and prepares them better than most of the highly regarded nyc three star restaurants

it is important to focus the attention in the restaurant and hospitality industry where it rightly belongs on the critic this new series should help remind us of the need to celebrate the critic perhaps then we can have an actual dialogue between the chef/critic and better understanding

wasnt that obviously a joke?

in the last issue of gastronomica i wrote an essay about the five levels of creativity in the kitchen this was my attempt to define precisely the issues that i saw developing in the kitchen and hoping to make an early attempt to "commercialize creativity" by defining it

bruni did the same thing to me at cru where we also had the menu divided among classical and modern specifically designed to let diners choose their experience he also did not mention this he just seems to have a bone to pick with "edginess" even blanketed with coddling dishes

sometimes for a discussion to progress there needs to be a common understanding about the meaning and values of the terms used otherwise you end up with food critics to whom avant garde is everything without red sauce; it inhibits development in diverse arenas to lump together people with diverse philosophies, generally defining them even semantically will allow consumer/chef/fan to make more informed choices. a better dialogue between chef/guest will also improve the quality of the experience and product from both directions.

the term molecular gastronomy as defined by the people who coined the phrase this/kurti indicates a pursuit of science in the understanding of the long observed "rules" of the kitchen it includes an attempt to understand why commonly held beliefs are held, if they are indeed true, or just fiction, or a mix; using chemicals (albeit an interesting choice of word for products which are all natural derivatives of plant and seaweed) has nothing to do with this pursuit at all. from this, by definition chefs cannot be scientists because they are trying to make something rather than learn something with no end point. this change in vantage point is interesting, but i am not sure it is compelling. "avant-garde" "mg" are thrown around pretty easily these days without much consideration of the derivation of the ideas and meanings if you are looking for an understanding of the aesthetics of cooking, also fundamental to this' scientific approach, gilt is probably the best bet; if you are interested in the application of science, known as technology, wd50 is probably the best bet; if you are interested in how technological applications produce more consistent tastes and textures cru is probably the best bet.

reminded of a scene from amadeus "too many notes" which ones would you like me to remove? god forbid the actual food should interrupt the critic's state of blissful unawareness/selfimportance

its amazing that he has reached any level of success in the kitchen without strunk and white he probably should have sought tenure as times restaurant critic ouch!

tia pol is one of the best new restaurants in nyc imho and also the only actual tapas bar jaleo is a great tapas bar in dc and would probably do very well here, but the production/service is designed for a factor of 10 more daily than tia pol

ouch i dont think that the food of casa mono is in the same league as tia pol the conception and execution of tia pol is pretty flawless in that they acheive 100% of what they aim for; i didnt get the feeling that either the identity or execution of mono was particularly strong

humorous bruni link http://www.dailyhowler.com/h021800_1.shtml predecessor of brunidigest?

new book or translation?

he has had a strong hand in menus for a good period of time imho blue hill had a strong imprint of alex, just as it did with miike anthony, though dan was clearly driving; marseilles/kemia was all him to the best of my knowledge; suba had already been well trodden by a bevvy of fairly talented nyc chefs, none of whom seemed to have much of an impact; it is very difficult for a young chef not on tv to become a breakout star in new york and often that means doing the best you can for the concept at the time you are there; for the hundreds of alumni of bouley, jean georges, daniel etc of the past decade, it is hard to think of any who were able to open a rival immediately. most three star michelin chefs would consider a 20 year rise fairly rapid and enviable, its a shame we expect everyone to do it in 1. back to topic, perhaps this is the best environment for alex to thrive wg

alex has been a major player for almost ten years working from a dishwasher at bouley to opening the bakery in a mgmt capacity he trained summer 98 at el bulli the year before i was there and returned the following year (perhaps more) for a short stint before opening blue hill as the chef de cuisine i think that the marseille/suba years can fairly be categorized as the leaner years in his strong career in nyc, and i am looking forward to trying this restaurant aside from his expertise in cooking, he is one of the most pleasant people you would ever hope to encounter

what other fields do you forsee having the greatest influence on the next 25 years of pastry

its interesting that you mention this idea and very clever i was wondering why you couldnt just put a shallow hotel in the circulator to hold chocolat a point indefinitely; wg