russ parsons

that's an interesting technique andiesenji, where did you come up with teh initial steaming idea?

when roasting a bird that big, the only change i make is to use a little slower oven ... that will allow the heat to penetrate more deeply before the surface gets too done. if you usually roast at 350, go to 325. the main challenge, of course, is getting the breast and the legs done at the same time (i think the correct temps are more like 165 in the thigh -- 185 is a cya invention of the usda).

unless you run a professional kitchen, managing other cooks, taking care of the business, in your spare time creating dishes, you are not a chef. and i know it's fun to play dress-up, but i find home cooks wearing jackets a little sad. not the wannabe aspect of it, but because home cooking is such a fine and noble tradition that it deserves to be appreciated on its own. see the paula wolfert threads.

i have to confess that i have never had a ragu bolognese that i really, really loved. many years ago, i did make the ragu napoletana from francesconi and fell instantly, madly in love with that. i make it a couple of times a winter now. she uses tomato paste, which makes a very big difference in flavor, but she adds some puree as well. she cooks a big pork butt in the ragu, which you can pull before serving. i usually serve the ragu with fresh pasta to start (very, very light appetizers, if any), then the sliced pork butt with some kind of very plain contorno, maybe broccolini or a bitter green. one of my favorite winter meals. here's my adaptation of it: NEAPOLITAN RAGU 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork butt, in 1 piece Salt, pepper 2 tablespoons finely minced parsley 1 pound onions, quartered 2 cloves garlic 2 ounces chopped pancetta 1/4 cup olive oil 2 1/2 cups dry red wine 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 1 cup tomato puree Water 1/2 pound Italian sausage, crumbled Season pork all over with salt and pepper to taste and parsley. In meat grinder or food processor, chop together onions, garlic and pancetta. Cook pork, ground pancetta mixture and olive oil in large casserole, preferably earthenware, covered over very low heat, turning meat only once, until onions begin to color, about 1 hour. Add red wine and cook, stirring occasionally. After about 2 hours, onions will be well-browned and most liquid will be evaporated. Raise heat to medium, add 2 to 3 tablespoons tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until tomato paste mixes in and becomes dark brown. Repeat, using 2 to 3 tablespoons at a time, until all tomato paste is used. Add tomato puree and 1/4 cup water, lower heat, cover and cook another 2 hours, adding water from time to time to keep sauce from drying out. When pork is tender enough that meat fork slides in easily, remove from sauce and set aside. Add sausage and continue cooking sauce 1 hour more. Sauce should be "dark, unctuous, shiny and thick."

Hiya Paula, One of the things I've always admired most about your work is how you seem to be equally at home in the ancient and the very modern. "Southwest France" is probably the most extreme example (well, maybe "World of ..."). In this book there are the "usual" traditional recipes, but there are a lot of quite modern ones as well, from chefs such as Michel Bras (to say nothing of your equal and unnatural affections for both clay pots and FoodSavers). I think for a lot of people, the knee-jerk reaction would be that these are two entirely different worlds, but you seem to see them as a continuum. Expand and explain. yr pal, rp

for some reason i keep hearing something victor hazan told me many years ago. i've quoted it before, so you can just stop here if you've heard it already: we were talking about the difference between young american chefs and Italian and he said: "the americans are cooking to surprise, the italians cook to reassure." the problem is that once you've surprised somebody with a dish, you can't do it again, so you have to keep inventing new dishes. that is why in italy people associate certain dishes with certain restaurants-- "oh, today i really would love to have XXXX at XXXXX". there are restaurants that have been very successful for decades based on the popularity of a few dishes, while it's rare for a "creative" american restaurant to last more than 5 years. (zuni, cp and tfl being obvious exceptions)

no, but i can think of a couple of other names that might make a very big difference in this specific case. maybe that's not what happened here at all. maybe this rocketman is nothing but a troll--they've certainly turned up on other online fora i've been on. but we have no way of knowing that. and sorry fat guy, but the fact that YOU know who it is does not provide the kind of transparency that would reassure me. again, maybe the real answer isn't the forbidding of anonymity, but the moderators taking a more active role against anonymous slagging. if you prefer to post anonymously for any of the reasons that have been discussed, then that is your choice. but i would think that good manners would dictate that you would then temper some of your comments.

has anyone tried triumphal palace? i understand there have been some changes since the la times review ran, but that was one of the best chinese meals i've ever had.

a couple of things: egullet has been in existence for at least 3 years now (that's how long i've been part of it) and this is the first time anonymity has come up and i do believe it has come up because of very specific actions by one anonymous poster in a very overheated thread. good behavior is always easier to argue for than to enforce, but it does seem like in this instance one poster was allowed to transgress the boundaries while others had much more innocent posts deleted on technicalities (full disclosure: a comment i made saying the thread had gotten silly was among them). if that poster's comments had been made under his own name, they wouldn't bother me nearly so much (i may not like robert brown calling me a bootlicker, but i'll defend to the death his right to do so ... under his own name). second: carswell asked about "celebrity status". i'm certainly no bourdain, but i've been working in this field for 20 years. there are times when it might be more fun for me to post completely unexpurgated opinions under a nom de net, but would that be fair? one thing you learn when you hang your opinions out in public for a while is that it is always more comfortable morally to be able to stand up and defend what you've written.

obviously, i agree, too. anonymity should not be a shield to hide behind while throwing rocks at others.

shenendoah has moved on to another location in a mall somewhere. i have to say that i never quite "got" that restaurant. in its place now is a pretty surprising restaurant that might or might not find its audience. it's called Biggs and it seems modeled on some of those hipster hollywood joints. except that nancy silverton consulted on the menu. i've only been once and i have to admit some trepidation--belmont shore is not known as a culinary treasure chest. but i was very pleasantly surprised. it's kind of a "small plates" concept, but this being long beach it was more like "medium plates." i remember a polenta with wild mushrooms that was quite good, as was boiled shrimp with aioli, grilled broccolini that was terrific. there was a pork stew that was ok, but didn't really sparkle. it's a touch pricey but not outrageous--4 dishes and a bottle of the house wine (weird thing, you order a glass, they bring you the bottle and you can drink as much as you want for $10) with a pretty good tip was about $80. not the kind of place you drop in on a weekly basis, but that was two weeks ago and i might be going back tonight. ps: and yes, the omelet inn is still there.

papadakis would be quiet a hike. but there is a nice greek place called george's that's right up pine ave. there's also a good "mediterranean" place i can't remember the name of. you might try 555 for steaks or king's fish house for fish (order the plainest stuff and make a special request that they not overcook it). most of the rest is chain stuff. not too far, though, there's a roscoe's chicken and waffles. and there's a semi-soul food place called uncle al's that does great fish poor boys that's not far. sundays and mondays are tough nights to find a restaurant, and i'm not sure what is open. if all else fails, one of those hotels has a daily grill in it.

this is the problem with the whole blind posting thing. i post under my own name because my momma taught me not to say anything behind someone's back that i wouldn't say to their face. this isn't true of all of our "nom-ed" posters: there are plenty of them, like fat guy, bux, pan, etc., who are very clear about their identities and, therefore, there special interests and potential conflicts thereof. rocketman, you joined e-gullet 3 weeks ago. since then you've had 49 posts, 18 of which have been on this topic. and, if i may say (since i'm posting under my own name), most of those have been defenses of psaltis that have been at the same time vociferous and borderline incoherent. without information to the contrary, this leads one to believe that you have some vested interested in the argument. the rest of us have been upfront, isn't it about time that you were?

jsolomon, i certainly hope that i didn't come across hard-hearted in my reply. i have been covering agriculture for almost 20 years. some of my best friends ... but i have to confess that as irked as i get by people who have never seen a farm theorizing about how things should be done better, i also object to farmers holding themselves out as somehow they should get a pass from the modern world. change is inevitable. ask the steelworkers. ask the lumbermen. ask the cattle ranchers. to expect that somehow you are exempted from participating in history because, by god, you grow corn strikes me as dangerously naive (except, of course, when you can convince somebody else to pay so you don't have to ... then i guess it's very smart). you are so right that farmers and bankers are hidebound. my god. and so are supermarket managers and produce marketers. when i started covering farmers markets as an alternative form of ag back in the mid-80s, mainstream farmers and mainstream retail both reacted as if it was airy-fairy hippie stuff. they would just laugh and spit. Well guess what? today you can find produce grown by farmers market farmers at our local high-end grocery stores. and at very good prices. i remember a story i did 10 or 15 years ago when the tomato industry here was facing a tremendous challenge. farmers were flat pissed off that they couldn't just keep growing the same mature-greens that they'd made good money on for the last couple of decades. what really forced the issue was when they saw greenhouse tomatoes from canada selling for 2 and 3 times what they were getting. now, it seems, there's almost an arms race among farmers and marketers to figure out what the next hot new retail tomato is going to be--two years ago it was heirlooms in the supermarket; this summer it was a half-dozen different types of grape and cherry tomatoes. all of them selling for many multiples of what standard tomatoes get. certainly, i'm not suggesting farmers markets as the solution for every ag problem--california is uniquely situated in that we have a great growing area that is convenient to two major metropolitan areas. but i am saying that farmers need to get a little (dreaded word) "entrepreneurial". and that if they don't, they shouldn't depend on my tax dollars to shore them up indefinitely.

jsolomon, i admire your passion and respect your point. but i do find it interesting that you identify those people as "corn farmers." in california, where i have some familiarity with agriculture (and which grows about 60% of the fruits and vegetables consumed in america), farmers have had to give up that traditional identification with one crop, indeed, with the traditional ways of doing business. without subsidies, the fruit and vegetable market is becoming more and more clearly divided between the big guys who can profit from economies of scale, and little guys who have to get creative--direct marketing through farmers markets, etc., growing of niche specialty crops, etc. the old days of a small fruit farmer growing what has "always been grown here" and then trucking it down to the packing shed and throwing in with the big boys is over. is there a structural impediment that would prohibit "corn farmers" from doing similar things? certainly, change is uncomfortable. in fact, it's damned hard (you're talking to a lifelong employee of a "dinosaur industry" here). but sometimes it is inevitable. i do find it interesting that, as far as i know, european crop subsidies also go to fruit and vegetable farmers and especially to those growing traditional crops.

american agricultural policy is a wonderful topic for discussion, but i think it's important to remember that subsidies DO NOT go to the people who grow the fruits and vegetables that we eat. field corn, sugar, cotton, wheat ... that's what draws the money. farmers who grow peaches and tomatoes have to figure it out for themselves.

Of course she didn't invent simple cooking. But her restaurant has directly or indirectly trained an entire generation of chefs and it really is impossible to ingore the impact it has had on cooking in the region. ← and, of course, judging from the article anyway, it is her and judy rodgers' throwing of fire bombs through non-organic restaurant windows that has kept the tyranny in place.

just out of curiosity: how would you describe the similarities between zuni, chez panisse and oliveto? (besides those of sociology and, sorry as i am to have to say it, that seems to me to be true of every major city in the us--the dining class seems to be small and fairly uniform).

here in southern california we're blessed with great japanese markets where you can buy entire wooden trays of uni, just like you find at sushi bars. one of my favorite summer appetizers is a crostini with 1 or 2 tongues of uni and fresh lemon squeezed over.

great post!

ooh, there's that "a-word" again. and in perfect context! whatever the book's strengths and weaknesses, it is one of the best-selling cookbooks in italian history (it would be interesting to compare its sales figures with something we would find much more respectable such as artusi). the recipes, as i understand it, come from domus, which is a longstanding high-end architecture and design magazine. what the book pretty much indisputably represents is a very authentic look at one upper middle class italians were cooking from, say, 1950 to 1970 or so.

Mushroom and Spaghetti Squash Gratin Serves 8 as Side. I was firmly in the anti-spaghetti squash majority until a couple of weeks ago when I was faced with having to come up with a recipe on short notice. I riffed on something in a Deb Madison book and came up with this, which I have to say astonished everyone in the test kitchen (similarly anti-spaghetti). To me, the important question is: does using this ingredient make the dish better than it would have been without it? Somehow, the spaghetti squash does this for the mushrooms. See the spaghetti squash discussion here. 1 3 1/2 - to 4-pound spaghetti squash 1-1/4 lb mixed mushrooms (portabello, cremini, white button) 4 T butter plus another . . . 1-1/2 tsp butter 2-3/4 tsp salt, divided 2 T minced shallots 3 slices prosciutto, cut in thin slivers 2 leeks 1 c creme fraiche 1 c cream 1/2 round loaf (about 4 ounces) day-old sourdough 1/3 c (1 ounce) freshly grated Parmesan 1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Place the squash cut-side down in a roasting pan and add about half an inch of water. Bake until the squash is easily pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. 2. Wipe the mushrooms clean, trim any hard stems and cut them into thick slices. Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until the foam has subsided and the butter turns a light hazelnut color. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle with three-fourths teaspoon salt, cover tightly and cook, tossing occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to glisten and give up their moisture, about 3 minutes. 3. Remove the cover, add the shallots, raise the heat to high and continue cooking, stirring constantly until the mushrooms are richly aromatic and soft, but not flaccid, about 3 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and set aside. 4. Reduce the heat to low and, without wiping out the pan, add the prosciutto. Cook on low heat for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, cut away the dark green leaves of each leek, then cut in quarters lengthwise, leaving the leeks attached at the roots. Rinse thoroughly under cold, running water and slice thinly crosswise. Add the leeks to the prosciutto and cover tightly. Let the prosciutto and leeks sweat slowly, stirring occasionally until the leeks are quite tender, about 10 minutes. 5. Add the mushrooms back to the pan along with any liquid that has accumulated in the bottom of the bowl. Stir to combine with the prosciutto and leeks. Add the creme fraiche and continue to cook slowly, stirring occasionally, while you clean the squash. 6. Remove any scorched spots from the cut side of the squash. Hold one squash half over a large bowl, and with a fork, scrape out the strands, separating them as you work from one end of the squash to the other. When there is little left but the skin, empty the squash strands into the bowl. Repeat with the other half, adding it to the same bowl. Season the squash strands with 2 teaspoons salt and stir well to combine. 7. Add the mushroom mixture to the squash and again stir to combine. Transfer the mixture to a 2-quart gratin dish, mounding it slightly in the center. Add the heavy cream, shaking the pan gently to distribute the cream through the squash. The cream should just be visible around the edge of the squash. Bake until the cream is bubbling and beginning to darken around the outside, about 15 minutes. 8. While the gratin is baking, prepare the bread crumbs. Cut away the crusts of the bread and cut the interior into cubes. Process in a blender to make coarse bread crumbs; you should have about 2 1/2 cups. Add the Parmesan and pulse 3 or 4 times to thoroughly combine with the bread crumbs. 9. Scatter the bread crumbs evenly over the gratin, then dot with the rest of the butter. Return to the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Cool slightly before serving. Keywords: Side, Intermediate, Vegetables, Lunch, Dinner ( RG1464 )

hey, it'll double the week's spaghetti squash sales at your grocery store.

i was firmly in the anti-spaghetti squash majority until a couple of weeks ago when i was faced with having to come up with a recipe on short notice. i riffed on something in a deb madison book and came up with this, which i have to say astonished everyone in the test kitchen (similarly anti-spaghetti). to me, the important question is: does using this ingredient make the dish better than it would have been without it? somehow, the spaghetti squash does this for the mushrooms. Mushroom and winter squash gratin Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes Servings: 8 to 10 1 (3 1/2 - to 4-pound) spaghetti squash 1 1/4 pounds mixed mushrooms (portabello, cremini, white button) 4 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons butter, divided 2 3/4 teaspoons salt, divided 2 tablespoons minced shallots 3 slices prosciutto, cut in thin slivers 2 leeks 1 cup creme fraiche 1 cup cream 1/2 round loaf (about 4 ounces) day-old sourdough 1/3 cup (1 ounce) freshly grated Parmesan 1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Place the squash cut-side down in a roasting pan and add about half an inch of water. Bake until the squash is easily pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. 2. Wipe the mushrooms clean, trim any hard stems and cut them into thick slices. Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until the foam has subsided and the butter turns a light hazelnut color. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle with three-fourths teaspoon salt, cover tightly and cook, tossing occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to glisten and give up their moisture, about 3 minutes. 3. Remove the cover, add the shallots, raise the heat to high and continue cooking, stirring constantly until the mushrooms are richly aromatic and soft, but not flaccid, about 3 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and set aside. 4. Reduce the heat to low and, without wiping out the pan, add the prosciutto. Cook on low heat for about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, cut away the dark green leaves of each leek, then cut in quarters lengthwise, leaving the leeks attached at the roots. Rinse thoroughly under cold, running water and slice thinly crosswise. Add the leeks to the prosciutto and cover tightly. Let the prosciutto and leeks sweat slowly, stirring occasionally until the leeks are quite tender, about 10 minutes. 5. Add the mushrooms back to the pan along with any liquid that has accumulated in the bottom of the bowl. Stir to combine with the prosciutto and leeks. Add the creme fraiche and continue to cook slowly, stirring occasionally, while you clean the squash. 6. Remove any scorched spots from the cut side of the squash. Hold one squash half over a large bowl, and with a fork, scrape out the strands, separating them as you work from one end of the squash to the other. When there is little left but the skin, empty the squash strands into the bowl. Repeat with the other half, adding it to the same bowl. Season the squash strands with 2 teaspoons salt and stir well to combine. 7. Add the mushroom mixture to the squash and again stir to combine. Transfer the mixture to a 2-quart gratin dish, mounding it slightly in the center. Add the heavy cream, shaking the pan gently to distribute the cream through the squash. The cream should just be visible around the edge of the squash. Bake until the cream is bubbling and beginning to darken around the outside, about 15 minutes. 8. While the gratin is baking, prepare the bread crumbs. Cut away the crusts of the bread and cut the interior into cubes. Process in a blender to make coarse bread crumbs; you should have about 2 1/2 cups. Add the Parmesan and pulse 3 or 4 times to thoroughly combine with the bread crumbs. 9. Scatter the bread crumbs evenly over the gratin, then dot with the rest of the butter. Return to the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Cool slightly before serving.

the connection between foodstuff and ecology is interesting. sea urchins are voracious nibblers of kelp--devastating really. and the sea urchin population in southern california is pretty much out of control since their main predator, the sea otter, is rarely found south of big sur. sea otters are also big eaters of abalone (good taste those guys!). and it was the near-extinction of sea otters in the 19th through mid-20th centuries that allowed abalone populations to grow to the ridiculous proportions that they did. all part of the great circles of life, grasshoppers.