=Mark

I read your 1996 essay on the spread of the Chile Pepper craze to the US in the early 90s with great interest (Yeah, my avatar gives it away). I even make some similar observations in an essay on my site. Being a card carrying Chilehead I've personally witnessed the movement's evolution from the macho "I can eat it hotter than you" mentality to an appreciation of the layers of flavor that judicious amounts of differently prepared chiles can add to a dish. They are still manufacturing hotter and hotter sauces for the thrill seekers, but serious partakers of the fiery pod have gone beyond masochism in their day to day enjoyment of them. You seemed dead on as far as noting the effects that the current immigrant culture was having on the collective embrace of chiles by the US. I was wondering if there were any aspects of the spreading culture of hot & spicy foods that has caught you off guard since the essay was written. edited to remove note to mods.

I'll keep this simple and succinct... Do you plan on including a link to eGullet on your Outlaw Cook website?

In my chilehead existance eating chiles is often described as culinary bungee jumping. There have been several theories for developing a taste for hot chile peppers. One thought notes the propensity for cultures that enjoy chile peppers to most often reside in warm, tropical areas. It is theorized that the sweating induced by eating hot, spicy foods helps cool the body, and was a learned adaptive response. Others have noted that the sensations induced by the exposure of heat recepters to capsaicin, the chemical that gives chiles their "heat," causes the brain to release endorphins. These are the bodies pain relievers which have a chemical structure similar to morphine. The result of the release of these chemicals as a response to percieved bodily injury is a sense of euphoria similar to that described by the "Runners High" experienced by long distance runners. Conversely, it is theorized that chiles evolved the heat producing chemicals to repel mammals, whose more robust digestive systems destroy the chile seeds. Birds, on the other hand are not sensitive to capsaicin, and eagerly munch down on the chile peppers. Not only do the birds not damage the chile seeds, but in fact scatter them widely complete with their own little dab of natural fertilizer...

What, do they leak?

Chinese Hot & Sour Soup Recipe courtesy =Mark 6 c chicken stock 1/4 lb julienned lean pork or chicken 2 T garlic & red chile paste 2 T soy sauce 3/4 tsp ground white pepper 4 eggs, beaten 5 T cornstarch 1 c sliced shittake mushrooms 1 can peeled straw mushrooms 1 c can sliced bamboo shoots 1 can baby corn ears 1 cake soft tofu, sliced into 1/4 inch cubes 1/4 c white vinegar 1 tsp sesame oil 1 can sliced water chestnuts finely chopped scallions for garnish 1/4 c dried black fungus (cloud ears), soaked in water for one hour, drained and sliced. Preparation: 1. Bring stock to a simmer, add soy, pork, mushrooms & chile paste, simmer for 10 minutes. 2. add pepper, vinegar, bamboo, baby corn, water chestnuts, fungus and tofu, simmer 10 min 3. Mix cornstarch with 5 tbsp water and add. bring back to a simmer and pour the eggs in a very thin stream over the surface. Let stand for 10 seconds before gently stirring in the sesame oil. 4. serve with a garnish of chopped scallions. The pepper, vinegar and chile paste can be varied to taste. Keywords: Chinese, Easy, Soup ( RG117 )

Anybody used the onions that come soaked in vermouth? Damn tasty!

I've heard folks complain that the newer slow cookers do not allow cooking below a certain pre set minimum temperature. Due to fears of litigation should someone fall ill after cooking at too low a temp, manufacturers have set a minimum temp that some folks find excessive for cooking for long periods. Any comments on this?

Well, Rich and I went to Thailand last night, and concur with what's been said here. Was not quite as small as was stated, but it did fill up pretty quickly. They did warn us when we ordered the food very hot, but even then the food was at best medium hot (Of course it took several visits to Mie Thai before they were convinced we could handle it, they err on the side of mild rather than risk having food sent back). The food was similar in preparation and selection to Mie Thai, with the notable exception of a total lack of any dishes using duck. Mie Thai has at least a half dozen duck preparations. Tommy would approve of the Larb, and should avail himself to some take-out on his 2420th trip past... The only other comparison is that the portions were not as large as at Mie Thai, so nothing had to be packed to take home. We did get several comments from the staff at how well we had done at finishing all the dishes, given how "hot" they were. All in all, given that Mie Thai is closer to me, and easily accessible by train, I don't see us going back, but the food and service were first rate.

How casual is Jeffreys? I understand they are one of the better establishments in the state.

Most of the chilehead fanatic I know consider them to be pretty much just a diversion. Entertainment if you will. The main problem is that if one subtracts the not insubstantial heat, one is left with a flavor that has been likened to singed cat hair. About the only versions I've had that had decent flavor were made by Jim Campell at Mild to Wild chile pepper company. He grows his own chiles and mixes his own sauces. My favorite condiment of his is the powdered apple smoked red savina habanero.

Has anyone been to "Thailand Restaurant" in Clark? I've heard good things about the place and was hoping for input...

I finally saw it and felt it was worth the wait. I especially liked the concept of Chris "in the morning" Stevens (no relation) from Northern Exposure as a Fuller Brush Salesman. Edited for suspense.

Buona Sera - Red Bank Sogno - Red Bank Rosinas - Shrewsbury La Pastarea - Red Bank Avanti - Oceanport Portifino - Tinton Falls Not sure if all these do lunch on a saturday, but give a call...

My video store has it in stock, but it's been checked out all week.

I don't see the unit falling over as a risk, as when fully loaded with fuel, meat and water it's pretty heavy and stable. Also the vents themselves prevent much in the way of any drafts reaching the coals and causing sparks, especially when the fire is running its strongest at the beginning and they are damped way down. I'd say your best bet safty-wise would be to purchase one of those metal pans with the rim around the edge that is meant to have a hot water heater installed on it. Other than this the only problem I could see is that the water pan needs to be refilled every 3 or 4 hours. Of course with all sources of open flame there are risks, and any such device will come with warnings about leaving them lit while unattended. You have to assess the risks as you percieve them. Did you leave the unit unattended for more than 5 minutes during your last session? Realize that the possibility of fire you cite is just as valid at any time of day if you leave the scene, not just at night when you are asleep. If anything there tend to be higher winds during the day than at night.

Though I think there are legitimate concerns about irradiated food, that website is full of hysterical exagerration, half truths and unsubstantiated allegations. Sorry. But you have to love the comment posted there about metallic molecules being turned into "tiny atomic bombs."

The way I set up my Weber Smokey Mountain is to first fill the fire ring with lump charcoal so that it is level with the top of the perforated ring. At this point I mix about 4 fist sized wood chunks into the charcoal at various depths and locations (Some in the center, some near the edge). I then start a FULL chimney of charcoal (This is a genuine Weber chimney, bigger than most) and dump it on top of the unlit charcoal. Assemble the smoker, wait for the smoker to come up to full temp and put the Butt on the top rack (The higher in the smoker you go, the hotter the temp.) With a full load of charcoal and the fact that it is burning evenly down from top to bottom you should be able to maintain temps between 220 and 250 for in excess of 9 hours without undue poking or adding of any more fuel. Use the bottom vents to regulate the heat. During the first few hours you'll have to keep them practically closed to prevent a runaway temp. spike to 350 or more. Be sure to always leave the top vent fully open at all times, damping it down can cause bitter flavors from stale smoke. Use the lower vents to control the fire. I use the remote thermometer on the rack an inch or so from the meat, I am more comfortable knowing the temp in the smoker and guage doneness by time, feel and appearance. Avoid putting the probe too close to the edge of the rack because the heat comes up between the walls of the smoker and the water pan. To refill the water pan I use one of those indoor watering cans with the long spout. Avoid drippin water on the coals to prevent ash kicking up onto the meat. You should avoid blowing into the lower vents for the same reason, ash from lump charcoal is very light. After like 7 or 8 hours depending on size I will poke and prod to check for doneness. You are looking for a particular state of jiggly doneness known in the BBQ Forum world as "Wabba-wabba." This becomes easier to identify with experience. At this point a fork stuck into the meat should be easily twisted around with little resistance. For more tips and ideas check out the Virtual Weber Bullet Website. There is also my Fun With Fire Smokin' off Exit 109 site... Enjoy!

I think these folks know it would not be a good idea to take their lunch breaks in the radiation chamber. Saying that we did not know the dangers of exposure to radiation in the 40's does not apply 50+ years later. In the early 1800s at the beginning of the steam locomotive era it was feared that speeds in excess of 20 mph would be fatal. I suppose we should outlaw travelling faster than that just in case...

Please cite the relevant studies from where this "proof" was obtained. I've looked pretty deeply into the issue and only find anecdotal stories, urban myths and outright fearmongering. As for the degradation of nutrients in food, there is another common practice that causes this: Cooking.

I'm cooking up a pot of this as we speak for the NJ Potluck... Got the idea for this after sampling a couple bowls of a regional style soup during a trip to the Fiery Foods Festival in New Mexico, just substituted Chipotles for the green chiles: Chipotle Chicken Vegetable soup 1 6 lb. roasting chicken 1 32 oz can chicken stock 1 cup coarsley chopped celery (Save all veggie trimmings for stock) 1 cup diced red bell pepper 1 cup sliced carrots 2 medium onions coarsely chopped 1 cup corn kernels 1 16 oz can diced tomato 1 cup chipotles in adobo sauce 1/2 tsp thyme cracked black pepper to taste salt to taste (I use heavy chinese soy sauce) Roast chicken in oven till done, cool overnight. Debone chicken and save all the bones & scraps. Cut meat into bite size bits removing fat & gristle. Refrigerate. In a large stock pot add bones and carcass as well as veggie peelings, carrot butts and onion skins etc and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 2 to 3 hours, skimming and stirring occasionally. Strain through a collander and add stock back to pot. Add celery, bell pepper, corn, onions and carrots as well as the canned stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until veggies begin to turn tender. Add chicken and canned tomato. While soup is coming back to a simmer, take about a cup of it and put in a food processor with the chipotles & adobo. Whirr it up for about 30 seconds or untill the peppers are well pureed. Add salt, pepper and thyme to the soup, then start adding the chipotle puree about a quarter cup at a time, stirring and tasting for the desired pungency. Using all of it makes for a chileheads delite, but may be too much for some gringos to handle! This makes a big old pot full which would probably serve 20 or 25 people. Good for freezing and serving at a later time. You could use all canned stock and one of those rotisserie chickens from the store, but my life is dull and I got nothin' better to do...

It's really pretty simple, cheese and butter are not vegetables. To say you were a vegetarian and ate cheese and butter is a contradiction in terms. The same applies to eggs and fish; not vegetables. I know folks are always out there rationalizing behavior inconsistant with this (ovo/lacto-vegetarian? I don't think so), but why not just carry it to it's logical end? I'm a Bovo-vegetarian, a vegetarian who also eats beef. Fat isn't the issue, the source of it is. Feel free to fry your corn fritters in vegetable oil. I do sense, however, that many folks opting to follow a vegetarian regimin, especially those who do so for any percieved health benefit, tend toward lower fat diets.

It's just a tiny little space stuck in a strip mall off of Van Dorn St. in Alexandria, but Annettes BBQ Heaven does a fine pulled pork sandwich. Tell her "Hi" from my Bro, Rich Stevens. He did all the electrical work and installed much of the equipment such as the smokers, coolers and display cases...

Considering that the visual impact of the packaging was such a large component of the article I was surprised at the lack of photos of the respective bottles.

The French.

I'm not familiar with the state of commercial pork production in the UK, but I suspect that there is a similar trend. Pointing to the US marketing strategy for pory "The Other White Meat" there is a tendancy to breed out as much normal marbling and fat as possible. As good as this looks on the nutritional breakout, the effects on flavor and texture are not insignificant. It means that due to lesser percentages of fat that there will be a corresponding loss of flavor. Also, the longer cooking times of BBQ will result in a tougher cut of meat. This is why those who regularly check labels on their food have noticed the spreading practice of injecting pork cuts with flavored brines. As in other meat products you are now paying for up to 12% salt water as opposed to meat. I attend a BBQ every summer down in the tidewater of Virginia hosted by a farmer named Dan Gill. He raises cattle and corn as well as sundry other animals, and is a true jack of all trades and master of a damn lot of them. He has dabbled in smoking and curing as well as brewing and distilling of adult beverages. He keeps a stock of standard, pre-leaned hogs, porcine equivalents of mid 70's muscle cars. He has his own smokehouse in which he Cures and Smokes his own hams And these are not the wimpy little hams you see at the supermarket! These hams are smoked and cured for sometimes over a year. They are never cooked and are simply carved and served. Not a few folks were taken aback when told they were eating uncooked pork, but everyone went back for seconds, thirds or more! I have to tell you that cured pork was as flavorful and tender as any imported proscuitto I've ever had (They run a deli and convenience store too, and in fact had domestic and imported proscuitto to taste it against). So, getting back to the main question I'd have to say you could most likely do the same type of smoked pork in the UK provided you could find hams, butts or picnics from the "heirloom" breed of pigs. Oh, Dan doesn't just smoke hams, he also prepares just about every other aspect of the pigs such as bacon and sausage, and has been known to roast a few whole as "Rufus" here can attest...