John Talbott

While w have topics on the other major food-related salons in Paris, we've missed reporting on this one. So I'll kick this off and hope someone will report on it. The Salon Marjolaine bio et développement durable will be from 8-16 November from 10:30 AM-7 PM (10 on Friday) at the Parc Floral de Paris in the 12th. (Entry:8 €). Website is www.salon-marjolaine.com Figaroscope has a Dossier today on bio restaurants and wine shops that I'll post in the Digest next week.

Both Schmear baby schmear! Oh magawd Only if the mustard is really aoili. Now that stumps me. More puzzlers please, prasantrin, this could be the topic that launched a thousand disputes.

As a matter of fact your description is not quite enough for me to get a clear notion of how unique this chef is. Being booked three to six months in advance for a restaurant has only two tables, especially in a gourmet city like Tokyo, hardly makes it a 'phenomenon'. At that rate, it would take years to get a reservation at Daniel Rose's Spring, which seats 16. Maybe you could give us a more informative description than "his food is original, intelligent and offers a unique vision of culinary creativity - he is an inspiring, exciting and dynamic Japanese chef"? As far as advertising is concerned, only half of the job has been done. ← Actually, Pti, I wonder if we don't have a funny reverse cultural exchange issue here. By this I mean, Japanese chefs, like Yoshiaki Takazawa at l'Auberge Basque, Eiichi Edakuni of Guilo Guilo and our very own Enishi in the nabe are going counter-current to Robuchon & Ducasse to the East.Interchange, fusion, sounds good to me, non?

As Julot mentioned on the lievre topic, Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about where to get game in and around Paris that included: La Marlotte Drouant Les Chevaux de Marly Taillevent Gérard Besson La Grande Cascade Paul Chêne Michel Rostang. Please go to the article for addresses, etc.

The Week of October 20th, 2008 Monday in l’Express Pierrick Jegu reviewed the wine bar Le Porte Pot, 14, rue Boutebrie, Paris in the 5th, 01-43-25-24-24, open Tuesday-Saturday in the evenings for bio wine, cheese and charcuterie, costing about 12 euros and François-Régis Gaudry declared Jean-Luc Tartarin in Le Havre his restaurant of the week. Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed two places and gave each 3/5 dots: Agapes, coordinates given before, where he essayed the snails with bacon, veal kidneys and rice pudding and Variations, 18, rue des Wallons in the 13th, 01.43.31.36.04, closed Sundays with a 20 formula and a la carte 45 € where he sampled some of the big chalkboard – a scallop salad, duck terrine and pastas; meanwhile his colleague, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the world food place Sorza, in the 6th. Tuesday, in Le Fooding Chloé Aeberhardt wrote up Al Taglio, a pizzeria in the 11th that serves the likes of a pizza with truffles for 3 €. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave two hearts to two places: the picture and lead review to Lilane, coordinates already given, where he talks of the langoustine raviolis, paleron of beef and Swiss sable with raspberries and the two hearts to: Arthur, 25, rue du Faubourg St Martin in the 10th, 01.42.08.34.33, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday night, menu-carte at 40.50 € for a tartare of shrimp tails and lobster, chicken breast marmite with Armagnac and a baba. One heart each went to: the bobo-hotel sited, Alain Senderens-supervised Mama Shelter, 109 rue Bagnolet in the 20th,01.43.48.45.45, open 7/7, starts at 40 € but climbs steeply, for Caesar salad, lamb stew and rhubarb crumble and Jours de Fete, 72, quai de Jemmapes in the 10th, 01.40.18.38.84, closed Sundays, with two lunch formulas at 16 and 23 €, a la carte 20-35 €, for roasted Brie salad, duck breast pastilla and sautéed veal. A busted heart went to Les Valseuses in the 6th that sounds Asian and Italian. In another section of the Figaroscope, there’s an article by Colette Monsat on where to take your friends from the country and suggests: l’Ecailler du Bistrot, Jeu de Quilles, La Regalade, Beurre Noisette, L’Os a Moelle, Chez Georges, Josephine + La Gazzetta. Wednesday in the “Dossier” Colette Monsat et al wrote extensively about eating lunch on Sundays. It is posted here. News of Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” is there as well. Another box on cult dishes at brasseries on Sundays is on the brasserie topic. Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison, editor of Paris Update, subbing for Richard Hesse, tried Cul de Poule and noted, as has been noted before, the labeling of all the products; the meal was a hit. Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote two articles, the first about the reopening of Mere Brazier in Lyon and the second about sautéed banana pina coladas at Mere Brazier. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Mauro Colagreco, named Chef of the Year by G/M and John Talbott wrote an essay on “Paris mid-range restos empty: has the market hit bottom?” In the September-October A Table, Emmanuelle Robin (that’s right, not Emmanuel Rubin) wrote an article about the “new chic cantines,” that categorized the following as qualifying: Cojean, Chez Bert’s, Jour, Cuizines + Soup & Juice. In the November Travel & Leisure Green Guide, Claire Downey suggested we eat at BioArt + Arpege. Deeper inside, Christopher Petkanas discussed “Village Fare” in Provence, suggesting the Café de la Lavande in Lardiers, l’Auberge in Pantaleon les Vignes, Le Bistrot de Pierrerue in Pierrerue, Les Deux Nines in St Jurs and l’Oustau de la Font in Reilhanette. In the November Saveur, in an article on the Auvergne, David McAninch recommended the following: Le Bouchon Fromager in Aurillac, La Poterie in Salers and the Restaurant Puech in Calvinet. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

If you do a search for it you'll find it here. If you do a search of pastry/patisserie cooking classes I'll think you'll find all the suggestions and comparions you need.

Everyone, including me, says it's only closed Mondays and I believe the "menu" is available only Tues-Fri lunch but a la carte is only about 35 E.

October 08 – Agapes, Miroir, Dos de la Baleine, Memere Paulette, Au Gout Dujour, Cavesteve, Fermin le Barbier, Moulin a Vent, Zebra Square 6.0 Pretty good under new management. Agapes, (not mind you Agapé in the 17th), 1, rue des Fosses St Marcel in the 5th, 01.43.31.69.20, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays (ergo, open Sunday lunch as it was when it was Equitable,) formulas and menus from 16-33 €, wines from 16.50 € up, is as good if not better than it was when Yves Mutin was “discovered” here by the New York Times a decade ago. My food god Atar and I went with no expectations; I mean, altho’ Alain Fusion had noted that the chef had passed through the kitchens of Senderens and Vigato, we’d heard that before; I mean, he coulda been peeling potatoes. The amuse gueules were tasty dips of fromage blanc with chopped chervil or chives, I should remember shouldn’t I?, and a curried puree thing. He had the tete de veau with gribiche, carrots and cabbage that was about the best I’ve ever had and I had a lentil soup with whole lentils and a nice morsel of sautéed foie gras, equally impressive. He tried the daurade on spinach with mushrooms and smashed potatoes, sacrificing his body, I suspect, to ascertain if he could bring the Missus next time and I had a huge joue de boeuf with a wonderful foie gras sauce and for a potato-insensitive person, a most fine potato loaf. I had a chocolate crème brulee with a shot glass of Magnolias/Carte Blanche-type stuff. With a bottle of fine Rousillon and two coffees but no bottled water = 86.90 €. Go? You betcha, the schlep is well worth it. 5.5 Rather good and worth the schlep (After all it’s only a couple hundred meters from Spring.) Miroir, 94 rue des Martyrs in the 18th, 01.46.06.50.73, closed Sunday night and Mondays, formula at 18 for lunch and menus at 25 & 32 € is “the” hot place this month, touted by both the established press and bloggers and with good reason, it’s terrific. {Time Out Here: if I give a place over a 5.0 it’s doing something, indeed, most things right, it’s not a bad mark. That it’s not Giradet, Bocuse or Bise at their height isn’t the issue. Ok, that settled, let’s go to the meal.} I went alone because my favorite “last night before I travel” lady was otherwise occupied and my two other possible “dates” had engagements. Alors, I arrived at a rather ordinary place on the rue des Martyrs, more or less empty, while all around places were full to bursting. Oh oh. I entered and was seated and more or less conducted a continual conversation for quite some time with the front couple. They’ve been open 6 weeks, they turned away 3 groups while I was there, starting at 8:08 PM, none of them tourists (despite the location) and the art on the walls met my exacting standards. I had a superb salad of artichoke hearts and herbs and then scallops which were quite good (3 € supplement) but were surpassed by the veggies including divine cepes, beets, navets, etc., served aside. As young people entered they said “Good Day/Evening” to me and I them which hasn’t happened inside Paris in 50 years. Whoa! Something is different about this place. To be sure I wasn’t being scammed/tricked, I order a poached pineapple with lemon-flavored meringue bits on top for dessert – ethereal. Extra points – the bar/front room/waiter guy tasted a bit of wine from a bottle to be served by the glass, found it wanting, and emptied it out. Was anything wrong – yes, like a book reviewer, I gotta find something wrong – the front door latch wasn’t working – ahhhhhhh, so what? My bill with 3 courses and no coffee or bottled water and two glasses of wine = 42 €. Go? Are you kidding, you will not be able to get in in a month, depression or not. 5.0 Interesting place but totally local. Le Dos de la Baleine, 40, rue des Blancs Manteaux in the 4th, 01.42.72.38.98, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, with a 20 €, 3-course limited choice (3-3-2) menu at lunch, but 40-50 € at night with pricey wines by the bottle, but a bargain by carafe at lunch (7 € for a ½ liter of Merlot). It was recommended to me by a critic friend whom I trust and I went with mixed expectations, since my meal there under the last management was quite disappointing and I’m never sure if the curse or karma gets exorcised. There is no regular carte at lunch just the 3-3-2 choices but I was happy nonetheless. I started with an excellent slice of terrine de campagne with a large portion of rocket nicely dressed. Then I had what was called an onglé, not an onglet mind you, of beef, cooked to perfection and accompanied by the best darn sautéed halved finger potatoes I recall (and I’m no potato man). Dessert was/were simply microtomed slices of pineapple – perfect as well. With said wine, no bottled water, a superb Illy coffee and not bad bread at all = 29 €. Goes on my cheap eats list immediately. Go? As I said, it’s no destination for eGullet experts, but if you’re a local, go! 5.0 Americans would love this place, why haven’t they flooded it? Memere Paulette, 3, rue Paul Lelong in the 2nd, 01.40.26.12.36, 2 courses for 15 and 3 for 17 € (that’s correct, it’s not a misprint), closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday, has TMK really only been touted by Francois Simon in his blog of September 9th, although there are all the appropriate stickers of guidebooks in the windows. It is a hole in the wall, decorated in 1920 bistro style (Lebey says 1960 and has a staggering wine list, a staggering menu and serves staggering portions of each item. It was #3 on my hit list for October so when a staggeringly wonderful food critic suggested it for today, I was on. We both had Pastis 51 aperitifs (3 €): they put the bottle on the table to help yourself; I was in love immediately. I had the museau starter and my friend the roasted paté with mustard; both classic, huge and good. Then I had an incredible portion of ox tail in red wine with carrots and potatoes and he an entire box of warm vacherin Mont d’Or with ham and potatoes. We both will enjoy our spirited away leftovers for dinner tonight, it was that much. I ended with a classic baba and he a big lemon tart, again they left the rum bottle on the table so digestifs were unnecessary. With a bottle of fine red and two coffees plus the aforementioned aperitifs, our bill was 73 €. Go? As Simon says (sort of) “Tired of frou-frou; this is the real thing.” 5.0 Pierre45 you are my new food bloodhound (open only since August and you found it). Au Gout (Denis) Dujour, 12, rue Beaugrenelle in the 15th, 01.45.71.68.36, closed (I forgot to find out), forced menu at 20 € for three courses (rocket and parmesan salad, boeuf bourginon and a vanilla crème brulee, which I seriously considered) or 25 € for three courses off the menu-carte which had lots of choices and specials. I chose to go with a first of risotto (I know, I know, you cannot get risotto except at that place 15 km. north of Modena) with mushrooms and parmesan and it was rather alright. Then I had the special which was described as a parmentier but was really a dish with layers, bottom layer pig pieces (hure or pied, depending on who the charming waitress was telling), then the potatoes, and topped off with slices of Jerusalem artichoke, lemon bits and rocket) – delicious. Finally I had a unique dessert, a round that tasted like the following: a very light and fluffy mousse of chocolate with banana, topped with some stuff like corn kernels and then sprayed with truffle spritz (I know, it cannot be, but it worked) and dribbles of coffee and chocolate. The Lavazza coffee and (? Banette) bread were equally good. Wine comes by the glass, 25 cl pitcher (7 €) and bottle (15 € and up). With the 20 € menu and 7 € wine pitcher one exits at 27 €. Go? Do, it looks like it’s lost in this street of Korean, Pakistani and Thai places, but it’s found. 5.0-2.0 Wine great, food less so. Cavesteve, 15, rue de Longchamp in the 16th, 01 47 04 01 45, closed Sundays, running one 30-50 € a la carte, with wines from the racks at price, plus 10 € corkage. I’d heard about this place from an inveterate wine maven and he, I and a chef about town had lunch (on a Monday mind you) at two adjacent tables. They only have about 10 covers upstairs, 8 downstairs at a common table and 4 outside, so go early (they open at 11). The place (and its Bastille twin) are really sleek and trim and not named after an American named Steve but a French guy yclept Jean Christophe Esteve. The firsts are wine bar usuals: Spanish ham and terrines but they had about five hot daily special mains. We started with terrines of foie gras and lapereau that, with a tart salad, were really great. But I thought the mains of lievre a la royale and beef cheeks were made off the premises and underheated before serving. The bread was blah but the coffee superb. Our first wine, the server-guy’s rec, was an OK Rully but when the wine guy arrived, he ordered a Pernand-Vergelesses that was supreme. Our bill for two was 116 € but the wine poobah’s musta been much more. Go? Sure. Why Not? At least to their dazzling website http://www.cavesteve.com/ 3.5 And Figaro gave it three hearts, no way, say it isn’t so Joe. Firmin, le Barbier, 20, rue de Monttessuy in the 7th, 01.45.51.21.55, closed Monday and Tuesdays, lunch formulas at 18 and 23, a la carte 40-50 €, is a place Figaroscope listed first this week in their recs for Sunday lunch, so I was so looking to test it out for Colette’s next visit. After digging into Figaroscope’s new website, {which, by the way I hate, after their most helpful pdf version, it’s back to 1956’s “Glitter and Be Gay,” which as you’ll remember Bernstein’s wonderful take on Candide intoned - “Here I am in Paris, France, Forced to bend my soul, To a sordid role} and finding it rated 3/5 hearts, unusual for those folks, I bent the souls of two food writer friends to go. As you approach from the street on the Bon Acceuil side, it looks noting like a resto, except for the chalkboard, but it certainly is when you enter. We three drifted in at different times, so I ordered a bottle of 17 € Les Baux Provencal red, which wasn’t half-bad. It took forever for the order to be taken, an eternity for the dishes to arrive and an infinity for the check. Let’s just say that surgery may prepare you for cutting quickly before you have all the facts, but not to run an efficient resto - our patron-chirurgien (recall the sub-name of the place le Barbier) - turned into an obsessive psychiatrist somewhere along the way. Since most of us were eating out tonight we tried to order conservatively. First, we shared a magnificent fricassee of mushrooms (which are now in full flight) and their level wiped out the long wait for them. Then one of the experts had a big slice of rare gigot with potatoes that I thought was quite good (the lamb, that is) and Madame had the gigot medium cooked, with incredibly good veggies (asparagus, beans, broccoli and kohlrabi) while I tried the perch. nicely browned on the skin but really not much of a much. Madame then had (and we shared) an opera that was respectable. With a second bottle of wine (a Cotes du Rhone), 3 coffees and no bottled water the check worked out to 68 € for two. So John, what’s wrong with this picture? Everything sounds fine if not great and reasonably price? Well I asked for votes from these grizzled experts, 0-10 being the scale, having written my number down so as not to cheat too much. Madame says 7, then 6, then 5, Monsieur a 5.5 and me a 3.5, averaging out 4.5. Then I ask the killer F. Simon question; “Will you tell others to come/go?” He answered the equivalent of “if it were across the street maybe.” But in truth, no way. 2.5 The beef was better in Romania. Moulin a Vent, 20, rue des Fosses St-Bernard in the 5th, 01.43.54.99.37, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays. My best food-finder pal Atar, long an inspiration to me had tested it a couple of times and found it quite acceptable. We started by splitting the frogs legs provencal (we had wanted/ordered the scallops but unfortunately too early in the season apparently) and they were standard – thus OK. Then we eyed the cote de boeuf at 60 € but due to our different cooking preferences, settled on an entrecote with shallots for him and faux filet Patron with wine sauce for me. Both were tough as tire rubber, but mine was slightly more tasty and chewable. The bill, splitting the first, each having a beef main, one bottle of Chinon and two coffees comes to 116 €. Go? You mean to Bucharest for Argentinian beef? Sure. 2.0 Not disgraceful, but for Thierry Burlot, one expects more. Zebra aka Zebra Square, 3, pl Clement Ader in the 16th, 01.44.14.91.91, open 7/7, with two lunch formulas on weekdays only at 28 and 30, a la carte 60 €. A woman answered the phone cheerily and when I asked to reserve Sunday at lunch said “You know it’s not brunch,” “thank you Lord” said I. But it was just the “snacking menu” although it contained real dishes (steak, fish, scallops) in addition to Italian ham and pasta and the like. I went with a friend who lives just across the river and we both entered about the same time and had the same reaction; it was kinda dark and decorated like a cocktail lounge/whorehouse, not at all the cheery, bright branché place I recall, but then I knew it had had a facelift and talent infusion by Thierry Burlot, he of the creeping prices. At first blush one blushes, the alcohol/wine list is three times as long as the carte and three times as pricey, good ole Thierry, hasn’t lost his touch for touching your wallet. My pal ordered brochette with mozzarella and tomato that was quite OK and my rocket with parmesan and balsamic was OK too, but we’re in deep Italian territory here, where’s the French stuff? So we both then had the only main on the carte that sounded interesting – scallops (3) on their shell with some sliced vegetable, pureed mushrooms and a generous slice black truffle, again not bad but not heaven-sent either. The bread was blah except for mopping up the sauce but the coffee ristretto was proper. Our bill, with one bottle of watery white Cote de Rhone and no desserts or botled water was 82 €. The service was attentive except for pouring the wine and picking up the check, when it hibernated. Go? Want pizzazz, want branché, want Burlot? Unh unh.

I of all people should appreciate it's all psychologial, but I must note that three of us ate at Figaroscope's #1 Sunday lunch place today for 34 E each with 2 bottles of wine and coffee: Firmin, le Barbier, 20, rue de Monttessuy in the 7th, 01.45.51.21.55, closed Monday and Tuesdays, lunch formulas at 18 and 23, a la carte 40-50 €,

Cottage Marcadet, which I ate at last in December 2006, impressed me a bit more than then and clearly I’m in disagreement with Dr and Mrs Laidback and Dr and Dr Atan, with whom I ate today. They loved it, I found it adequate but neither my style of gutsy cuisine nor my type to place – too frou frou. We started with a search for an affordable wine – once one passes the bar at 27 € for el cheapo, one is in price heaven. The one listed they were out of but kindly substituted a very fine Beaujolais for the same price – a plus! Then the breadsticks arrived, heated but without character (as was the later heated and homemade bread). The amuse bouche was a tiny mound of teeny tiny shrimp, petoncles and radish sprouts – OK. Both men had the beef tail with chopped turnips or parsnips and a rich dark sauce – fine, altho’ it and subsequent dishes came covered with a dome of chicken wire that I apparently rolled my eyes upon spying, interpreted (correctly) by my neighbors as pretentious. Then Madame Doctor and I had the rabbit two ways with potatoes two ways that I had found wanting two years ago and found wanting today but that she loved. M. the Doctor liked his St Pierre which I thought was OK. Then came a “pre-dessert” of a nice shot glass with caramelized grape nuts in the bottom (not really but sorta) covered with a kiwi puree. One nougat dessert was shared by all; OK. The mignardises were OK. Our bill, with one bottle of wine and no bottled water = 132 €. Sorry but I just cannot get excited about this place when compared to Le Table d’Eugene just a bit down the road.

There is a big table in the basement, about 5 tables seating 2 each on the ground floor and 2 tables seating two outside. The food preparation area is on the ground floor.

Sorry to hog the stage and drive the bidding down but how about this place discovered by Pierre45 (and unreported by the papers despite its being open since Aug 26): Au Gout Dujour, 12, rue Beaugrenelle in the 15th, 01.45.71.68.36, closed Sundays. With the 20 € menu and 7 € wine pitcher one exits at 27 €.

Oh boy, Pierre do we owe you one for Au Gout Dujour. This is a real treasure. I'll be reporting in full in a couple of days but anybody nearby should take heed.

I have hesitated to enter this ring of gladiators, but what the hey.Today on the Metro a large lady was eating an overcooked grey hamburger with smelly sauce and onions and it preoccupied me all the way to lunch. Please, is there no shame any more. Let me return to Robyn's post I was eating with the person I have eaten more meals out with in the last 50 years than anyone except Colette last week and he noted that the mid-range restos we frequent were empty and it was true for three successive meals.He posited that it was Economy Fear and I agreed. Then I walked back to the subway past all the low-range bars and cafes on the Place de Marechal Juin and they were overflowing. So I assumed it was just the midrange places that were hurting until I had lunch with a plugged-in chef who said he'd heard on the drums that the big boys were going empty some nights last month whereas normally they'd have one such night a year. Then, back to my old friend, he calls from the US to say Eleanor Beardsley on NPR (not Ladka Bauerova of Bloomberg.com) also reported on the phenomenon. As someone with some interest in the psychology of eating, I think it's fascinating that the Americans are clogging the lines at the Orsay and Louvre but not the restos. Again, I think it's psychological but it could hurt. And as an astute observer said to me yesterday, it could lead to a new model of Paris resto, much like the last big recession/depression brought about the bistro's d'a cote. What will it be? I dunno? But it should be interesting. Another datum point: today's Figaro reported that Lavinia had a 19% increase in wine sales as of June 30. Going into Host Mode, could we kindly avoid Chapter 82 of the cultural stereotypic arguments about "service, surliness and French waiters." As my next door neighbor says "been there, done that" and right here on eG.

Not me Julot, I've expended my last Euro in G/M's direction unless someone donates one my way (hint hint); a wonderful train from the 1960's wrecked on the tracks.

Both are wine stores serving food.

There was a very nice article in the IHT last weekend on Apollonia Poilane. ← Update from today's Figaro; Apollonia finished Harvard with flying colors and is at work at Poilane 7h15 every morning. It is here.

And this: Memere Paulette, 3, rue Paul Lelong in the 2nd, 01.40.26.12.36, 2 courses for 15 and 3 for 17 € (that’s correct, it’s not a misprint), closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Huge menu, huge wine list, huge portions. With a bottle of fine red and two coffees plus two aperitifs, our bill was 73 €.

I'm quite sure all the hot dishes came from elsewhere, I was pushing it by having lievre; I'll be posting my full report after this weekend. Wines were great.

Sunday lunch Redux I thought I’d post this here rather than in the Digest, because I suspect folks looking for lunch places on Sunday are more likely to look here. Today’s Figaroscope had an article by Colette Monsat et al on Sunday lunch {one month after I did, but who’s competitive?} that gave the following categories {I’ll give coordinates on only those not in the guidebooks or well-known}: According to the chalkboard Firmin, le Barbier, 20, rue de Monttessuy in the 7th, 01.45.51.21.55, closed Monday and Tuesdays, lunch formulas at 18 and 23, a la carte 40-50 € Le Café des Musees Le Comptoir du Relais All fish La Maree Passy La Cagouille Les Fables de la Fontaine Traditional dishes l’Auberge Bressane La Fontaine de Mars L’Ambassade d'Auvergne Oysters on the run Ballon et Coquillages Le Bar a Huitres La Dame des Huitres Wine related Quedubon Verre Vole Fish la Boissonnerie Exotic flavors Les Delices du Shandong Le Bambou Lao Lane Xang 2 New places Chardenoux Ozu L’Assiette Square Trousseau Plus, Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” features Sunday lunch at Le Tourne Bouchon,71, blvd Raspail in the 7th, 01.45.44.15.50, good for eating at, after shopping at the Sunday Raspail bio market, where he had a couscous, mousse, coffee and ½ Badoit for 20.80 €. There is also an interview with Willy Door who runs the seven bistrots open on Sundays that serve a 38 € lunch (all included, incl aperitif, wine + coffee). They are the bistros: de la Muette Breteuil 17e Deux Theatres St Ferdinand Melrose Champetre Finally, there is a box on cult dishes at brasseries that I’ll post on the Brasserie topic.

Today’s Figaroscope had an side box by Gilles Dupuis on “cult dishes” at brasseries: Leg of lamb Zeyer Chez Sebillon Roast farm chicken Chez Georges L’Alcazar Brasserie Lutetia Drouant Boeuf gros sel Lipp Lamb curry La Coupole Choucroute Brasserie de l’isle St Louis Beef tartare Rotonde Montparnasse

As an aside - we stumbled on a little wine store called Cavesteve. Any relation? Robyn ← Well, there are two, one near the Bastille in the 4th, the other on the rue de Longchamp in the 16th where we were. Both are not so little when you go downstairs for instance.

I'd agree with Ono regarding transportation and quality of food/product, but if you intend to talk, it gets pretty noisy.The Dogwood Deli which is not a Deli, in Hampden (taxi) is not as convenient by light rail but allows conversation. And the Dogwood is committed to using local produce/etc. (printed on the back of the menu).

Alexandra Michot used the Herme book as a peg to write an article on the "Generation macaron" in Le Figaro, in which she argues that it's become a worldwide phenomenon in 15 years, from Paris to LA to Tokyo. She points out: - It's the "chameleon" of pastries - 3,000 macarons a day are made by Laduree - Their origin is hazy - Lenotre, Dalloyau + Hevin are also contenders - The Justine at the Medidien Montmarnasse, 15 Oct-15 Dec has a 45 E all macaron menu. Right now its just on the pdf version page 32.

How about this? Le Dos de la Baleine, 40, rue des Blancs Manteaux in the 4th, 01.42.72.38.98, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, with a 20 €, 3-course limited choice (3-3-2) menu at lunch, but 40-50 € at night with pricey wines by the bottle, but a bargain by carafe at lunch (7 € for a ½ liter of Merlot). It was realy good simple food and my bill came to 29 € with the wine and Illy coffee.