John Talbott

Goumard, coordinates above. 6.2 - wonderful for two of us. 3.0 - not so for Colette. Well a lot has changed since 2002 and the above were posted (I myself haven't been in a decade, when we used to go a lot). A few weeks ago I saw in Web Radio du Gout that they had a facelift to become a "brasserie de luxe sans contrainte", converted the downstairs to a oyster bar/tapas joint/small plates and single glasses of wine location and upstairs to a less pricey (cf 139 E pp KJS paid) and not totally seafood centered resto. Colette and I went today with a trusted palated friend and he and I were thoroughly pleased with the all inclusive menu (3 courses, 1/2 btle wine, 1/4 btle water and coffee) for 49 Euros. The first was a base of tepid crushed crab with a crabesque veloute on top, a main of beautiful and beautifully-cooked cod with a superb crust on top of a bed of a slightly more fluid than usual brandade (there was also a meat option and there are many more meats on the carte than before) and then a fine apple dessert concoction with ice cream and beurre sale. As I say, he and I were very pleased, even though, as he noted, the wine provided was a screw-topped "3,90 E white from Monoprix." (NB the lowest priced white or red otherwise was 40 E). But the bread was super (as usual), the cafe serre proper and the service attentive. Our bill, with all that and Colette's bar was 129 Euros (less than KJS's entire meal). But but but, John, what's wrong with this picture? Ah, you had to ask. Colette's bar with girolles and green beans. It was blah with no character or much taste and for 26 E one expects a bit more, even pouring salt over it as Colette did but never usually does. So Go? I think so, the all-included (which actually harks back to chef Philippe Dubois' original idea) menu is a great buy, but why we two were blessed with a great meal and Colette got stuck, I'll never know. PS The Louis Majorelle (Nancy recall? where Colette and I recently revisited) Art Nouveau touches (1904) remain secure in the national heritage bathrooms (the North ones not the South ones) only mildly ruined by General DeGaulle's upgrades, according to our dining partner).

Well, you guys, plus the threat of no more French oysters for two years (what are Norwegian ones like I thought? I know the Irish ones) got my juices up and from my wonderful Magrebian oysterman in my grubby local brasserie, I got some Gillardeau No. 2's (15.50 €) and Speciales de Bretagne No. 2 (15.00 €) for a taste test and wouldnyaknow I couldn't see an edge.

Let me throw one more in the mix: Le Gaigne which I reported on is a few blocks away at 12, rue Pecquay in the 4th, 01.44.59.86.72, closed Tuesday – thus open Saturday, Sunday, Mondays, the young chef – Mickael Gaignon – passed through the shops of the Pre Catalan, Gagnaire + Gaya. We've been there 4 times (as recently as yesterday) and have been pleased.

The Week of December 29th, 2008 Tuesday, in Le Fooding’s Bonne Nouvelle, Eric Roux reviewed the Maison Decoret in Vichy. Wednesday in l’Internaute Julie Gerbert gave 20 places to dine at in 2009 that included: Nicolas le Bec of Lyon's in Paris, Jean-François Piège’s renovated Thoumieux in Paris and a second restaurant at Les Crayeres in Reims run by Didier Elena as well as a cantine-epicerie by José Da Rosa (in the 10th) and conversion of the creperie to a tapas bar by Yves Camdeborde. Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about and gave Guy Savoy’s recipe for #2 oysters in a cold soup and published a second about the oyster virus disaster that has reduced the French crop to 20% of its output in 2009 and 2010 (since they take three years to grow). For the last year to have them for New Year’s he suggested: L'Ecailler du bistrot La Cagouille Uitr Dessirier Poissonnerie du Bac Daguerre Marée Chez Léon in Lyon. Thursday in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski says to follow the canaille bistro in the bourgeois district A l'affiche, 48, rue de Moscou in the 8th, 01.45.22.02.20 with a menu: 24,90 E; a la carte: 38 E because it has good food (cold pea soup, veal kidneys and cold vacherin with raspberries) at nice prices. Saturday in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon also wrote (see above) about the Maison Decoret in Vichy. In addition, Alexandra Michot wrote a full page article about Jean-Paul Hevin as well as one on Kings’ cakes that talks of revisionist stuff like making them with chocolate, pear, pistachio, violet, apple, fluorescent mint and eau de Cologne [sic]. In the January WHERE, Alexander Lobrano wrote of Thierry Marx’s new venture at Ozu. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Lebanese restaurant Liza. In the weekend FT, Jamie Cahill, after dining with the great man at Caius, wrote an article entitled “Insider tips from France’s foodie legend” that states that Pudlo eats at “12 restaurants a day, eating a starter in one, a main course in another,” writes all the reviews himself and will publish six new regional editions in May. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I'd second Breizh, Bascou, Pramil + Cartouche, which is farther away but superb and I'd also add Les Chineurs, report here. But as I keep repeating, Paris is so easily traversed and negotiated, you need not limit yourself to the neighborhood, everything is a few Metro stops away.

All I know is that it's called Roselito and will open in March.

Yes I hate to say it but the US may become a source the next two years.

Wednesday in l’Internaute Julie Gerbert wrote that Didier Elena was opening a second restaurant at Les Crayeres.

Wednesday in l’Internaute Julie Gerbert announced that Yves Camdeborde is converting his next-door creperie to a tapas bar for folks waiting to be seated.

Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde had an ominous article about the oyster virus disaster that has and will reduce the French crop to 20% of its output in 2009 and 2010 (since they take three years to grow). For the last year to have them for New Year’s he suggested: L'Ecailler du Bistrot La Cagouille Uitr Dessirier Poissonnerie du Bac Daguerre Marée + Chez Léon in Lyon.

And for my last meal (out) in 08 I had lievre a la royale at l'Epigramme, 10 Euro supplement over the menu. Quite good.

And as the resident contrarian, I can assure you that if you cannot get in, you can eat much better elsewhere. Just don't ask me where, I'm exhausted giving my lists for 2008. Happy New Year to you and all!

At least yesterday, it was available in the Galeries Lafayette food hall.And for Vinotas- A quick search shows that Dean and Deluca carries it and maybe Murray's.

Just to keep wordwise current, the December 15-16 ANP said that the Gilles Choukrounesque Mini Palais was now serving drunch.

The Week of December 22nd, 2008 Tuesday, in Le Fooding’s Good News, Claude Polonsky wrote of L'Essentiel in Deauville. Wednesday, Richard Hesse reviewed Christophe, coordinates already given where he very much liked the deep-fried langoustines, Basque ham, blood sausage, steak, Challans duck, Camembert, millefeuille and chocolate cake. Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde had two articles, the first about caviar, scallops and black rice and the second about the confiseur, la maison Lilamand in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Guy Martin’s new book, Le Chiberta & the Casa Luca and John Talbott wrote an essay on “Don’t you love a Good Food Fight?” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

What a difference! Today I dragged Colette and we both were very disappointed. The first bad indicator was that we were alone for most of our meal. Then my "raviolis" of lobster were not really raviolis but quenelles, which of itself is no sin, but they didn't dazzle. I then had a "traditional" cote de veau with pleurottes, wherein the veal needed salt, pepper and Lord knows what else and the sauce was strange, like not-quite-truffles-tasting-but-trying. At this point I had a flash-back to Jadis and the book I'm reading on Careme and thought, is this attempt to recreate the great old recipes the "new" thing? Colette's bar with a brown sauce was a la vapeur, not my favorite preparation, but even she didn't rave even with its raw endives. She finished with her classic thermometric gauge, the rice pudding; which she said was "OK" but not gold standard and I had a decent gourmandise. Coffee and wine were also OK. Bill = 89.90 Euros. Oh yah - final note: the men's room door wouldn't latch but since the place was still 85% empty, it hardly mattered.

I have hesitated to enter the lists here with true cassoulet experts given my quick fix method that depends heavily on Monoprix, G.LaF. and Bon Marche products but to answer Chris's query, I have been known to use navy beans in the US.

My personal preference (of just three) would be:Jadis young chef does old stuff La Table de Robouchon old chef does new stuff Clocher Pereire two seasoned chefs do great stuff.

My preferences of those listed would be Fables, Severo, Jadis, Les Papilles, Chez Michel, Le Baratin + Le Gaigne and while I've heard good things about Christophe, I was underwhelmed; would only go to Comptoir for dinner, and not to Le Villaret, Itineraires, L'Entredgeu, Chez Georges, La Regalade or Aux Lyonnais because of inconsistencies. Forget Spring except for lunch if there's a cancellation (he's booked til March).

Sounds good; however, I have had one bad meal of total of three at Itineraires, haven't been to the "new" Jean and I don't think a brasserie is a necessity. Most interesting tho' is the Norwegian Embassy; I wish I were not hosting a small event myself New Year's Eve or I'd try my very best to crash it. Lycka till!And please report back; we'd love to hear a Nordic chef's take on our places.

The article is here.

Four of us ate at the recently revived Cork's on S. Charles Street today and had the same response; the service was horrid, the food not hot and not so good either (fish & chips, Cork's BLT, a frisee salad and a shrimp salad), but the prices OK for the amount of food served. The wines do range from $18-395 and one can park. In summary, the old Catskill resort verdict: it's not expensive nor good but there's plenty of it.

The Week of December 15th, 2008 Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard, awarded 3/5 dots to a brasserie-bistro-bouchon Fabrique 4, 17, rue Brochant Paris in the 17th, 01 58 59 06 47, with fare such as a quenelle de broche, celeriac soup, andouillette, zucchini raviolis and fondant au chocolat or fresh fruits; lunch formula = 20 €, a la carte from 35-40 € ; and his colleague Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the one-year old l’Ordonnance, coordinates given before, serving eggs, andouilette, leeks vinegarette and baba on 17-30 € menus. On the sidebar, they noted that the MiniPalais is now serving drunch (between lunch and dinner) and didn’t think much of La Canaille in the 4th. Tuesday, Sebastien Demorand {now in charge of “Good News”) in Le Fooding reviewed La Fidélité, 12, rue de la Fidélité in the 10th, 01 47 70 19 34, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch formulas/menus : 16-21 €, dinner 26-32 € for food described as between earthy (pot au feu of pork cheeks) and silly (scallop tartare), between inspired (pumpkin soup with mussels) and safe (steak/fries). The wines sound interesting and affordable. Wednesday, Joan Nathan’s article entitled “In Successful Paris Restaurant, Jewish Roots” on Daniel Rose’s Spring appeared in the NYT. The Figaroscope Dossier written by Elodie Rouge, Wednesday was on “star” products and where to get them: Burrata Roberta Amici Miei La Pizzetta. Veramente La Gazzetta Potimarron Les Bouquinistes Café Constant Café des Musées Beets Senderens Alcazar Citrus Étoile Brasserie du Lutetia Zebra Square Tapioca La Bastide Odéon Guy Savoy Ladurée Le Bar Somehow I missed an article last week on the 20 tables that made this year; they are: Best Bobo Mama Shelter Best bistro Jadis Best Thai Oth Sombath Best snob Bar Laduree Best Ducasse Jules Verne Best haiku Shu Best palace Le Cinq Best one room Jeu de Quilles Best reconversation Les Terrines de Gerard Vie Best Kyoto/Montmartre Guilo Guilo Best move Itineraires Best shock Pizza Chic Best annex La Veranda Best Korean Sobane Best comeback 153 Grenelle Best face B Etc. Best reprise l’Assiette Best BCBG l’Agapé Best open kitchen Bigarrade Best Chinatown Lao Lane Xang 2 Francois Simon’s Hache Menu was on Derriere, coordinates given before, where he comments on the chicken, salmon and beef cheeks for 119 € that included a “serious” St Joseph. Go? It doesn’t sound imperative but he’ll return. Wednesday, Richard Hesse of Paris Update, reviewed Jadis, coordinates well-known and seemingly the hit of the month, where he found the food good and especially liked his goat cheese, recommended by the producer himself sitting nearby. Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde had two articles, the first about tasting champagnes and the second, wherein Didier Elena, of the Crayères in Reims, gave his recipe for abalone with a sabayon of champagne. Friday, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed on his Express blog Les Editeurs, 4 carrefour de l'Odéon in the 6th, 01-43-26-67-76, running 40-50 €. Saturday, Francois Simon in his “Croque Notes” in Figaro, went back to Spoon celebrating its tenth anniversary. In addition, he and Alexandra Michot, told readers where to get their Reveillon products: Oysters – Ecailler du Bistrot Salmon – Byzance and others Foie gras – Fabienne Labeyrie Capon – Hugo Desnoyer Cheese, Vacherin Mont d’Or – Sebastien Dubois Desserts – Pierre Herme Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Alain Passard in an article entitled “The man who knows vegetables” and John Talbott wrote an essay on “How French Chefs Cover Their Sins.” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I missed the article just before Thanksgiving by Raymond Sokolov in the WSJ, that gave Joel Robuchon's Roast Turkey recipe, but here it is.

It's the time of year when everyone lists his or her top 10 or 11 or 20 tables. Here are some that have already appeared. Please add your list. The best 20 tables of 2008, according to Figaroscope, were: Best Bobo Mama Shelter Best bistro Jadis Best Thai Oth Sombath Best snob Bar Laduree Best Ducasse Jules Verne Best haiku Shu Best palace Le Cinq Best one room Jeu de Quilles Best reconversation Les Terrines de Gerard Vie Best Kyoto/Montmartre Guilo Guilo Best move Itineraires Best shock Pizza Chic Best annex La Veranda Best Korean Sobane Best comeback 153 Grenelle Best face B Etc. Best reprise l’Assiette Best BCBG l’Agapé Best open kitchen Bigarrade Best Chinatown Lao Lane Xang 2 The best 11, according to Le Fooding, were listed as follows: New wave Japanese – Guilo Guilo Best haunted house – Hotel Faurie in Saint-Agrève Best chef - Christophe Pelé, La Bigarrade Best bistrot – Le Chat in Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire Best little luxe – Al Taglio Best “Station-Sandwich” – Gouter l’Aveyon in the rest area at the Millau Viaduc Best troquet – La Cantine du Troquet Best blow-out – Chez Navarre in Toulouse D'Honneur - Rose and Jean-Charles Carrarini Rose Bakery Best “Planque Verte” – Le Grand Couvert / La Colline Du Colombier in Iguerande Best Paris Bistrot – Jadis The best 10 by Francois Regis Gaudry of l’Express: The palace table - Le Cinq Best bistro – L’Endroit – in Honfleur Chic cantine - DZ'Envies – in Dijon Best Japanese - Shu Best pizza - Al Taglio Successful move - Tartarin – in Le Havre Young hope - Rémanence – in Lyon Bistronomic - Itinéraires Best troquet - La Cantine du Troquet Best price-quality ratio - Bistrot Angélique – in Versailles For what it’s worth, my top 11 meals (11 because no one, including me, can get into Adrien any more) were at: Auberge des Saints Peres – in Aulnay sous Bois Chez Lena et Mimile l’Agassin La Cantine du Troquet Le Jeu de Quilles L’Entêtée l’Idee – in Levallois-Perret Les Bouchons aka Le Restaurant de Philippe et Jean Pierre, Hide aka Koba’s Bistro La Table d'Adrien Jadis