John Talbott

I guess my strategy would be to decide on a couple of places you'd like to go to, then check if they have (inflated) special menus. It's hard to generalize but both big and little places can have either special or regular menus. Brasseries probably wouldn't but nice small places may not either.

I like Les Halles on Penn Ave a block or so away (one of the two non-NY branches); typical French cuts, comfort food; no stars but holds you til you get to Paris. If you're coming from NY faggedaboudid.

Since it opened last year, we’ve been meaning to dine at Cinghiale, Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman’s latest well-reviewed restaurant between the Inner Harbor and Fells Point. This week is Restaurant Week in Baltimore so $30.09 sounded pretty good for three courses at dinner. We sat in the bar area; it is a huge space, and it is way too loud – we had to shout at one another in order to communicate. The wait staff was very friendly, the bread and olive oil arrived promptly along with water and menus and an impressive wine list. The drill is that they pour the first sip in a third glass on a silver platter whether it’s a $300 or $19 one – a bit pretentious and reminiscent of the excesses at Ducasse’s Essex House with knives, pens and stools for ladies purses. We started with both firsts: a terrific chickpea soup with chilies which was unfortunately marred by croutons that may have been “grilled”, but were extremely soggy from premature soaking in said soup; the arugula salad was terrific too, made with first class product. Then Colette had the tagliatelle with duck ragu. Initially, she said it was reminiscent of the ragu we prepared with Luigi Buitoni at the Locanda della Rocca, but the flavor was very, very different, indeed, she needed to ask for salt and pepper, which she applied liberally, to make it taste good. I was served a lukewarm pork confit with canellini beans, it needed something too – salt and pepper worked, although it didn’t fix the temperature. For dessert we split the two items on the restaurant week menu: a pistachio panna cotta that had no taste of pistachio, or now that you mention it, no taste of anything; and an olive oil cake with a boring ricotta sorbet. The bill was $83.94 before the tip. (A friend said a few weeks ago that Cinghiale served good food but was vastly over-priced; I must disagree, its price-quality ratio was horrible, but then, we’re spoiled eating elsewhere).

So what did it cost per kilo or pound?

Wasn't it just yesterday that it was mustard and that's now been altered says the IHT.

Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about drunch at the MiniPalais, now under the direction of the folks from l’Ami Louis with a single price (28 €) meal Sundays 6-11 PM with a soup or daily plate from the chalkboard, then salads, eggs, lox, cold meats, frites, veggies and desserts from the rolling cart.

John has this place taken over the space occupied for years by the 1 star "Vin Sur Vin"? The address is the same. ← Yes

The Week of January 12th, 2009 Tuesday, Le Fooding, Anna Polonsky reviewed Glou a wine plus food place at 101, rue Vieille du Temple in the 3rd, closed Tuesdays, featuring grands crus and natural wines plus the usual charcuterie but also boudin noir, pork belly and yogurt with jam for about 30 €. Tuesday as well, in ANP, Jerome Berger wrote a “portrait” of the Rose Bakery both the original in the 9th and 2 in the 3rd. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave two hearts to only one place, Glou, coordinates see above, which he calls the bobo-baby-loft bistro next door, serving smoked white tuna, sardinillas and an ample wine list for about 25-35; lunch formula = 17 €. The one heart reviews were of Les Tontons 2, 73 rue Brancion in the 15th, 01.45.33.87.22 open 7/7 (a spin-off of Les Tontons in the 14th) features tartars of horsemeat, an aller-retour and brie on menus of 12.9 (lunch), 15.5 and 19 €; another Bistrot de l’Entrecote, 10, pl Marechal-Juin in the 17th, 01.46.22.01.22, open 7/7, (inspired by the Relais de l’Entrecote), serving a 25 € menu and a la carte 30-35 €, serving a “pathetic” fricassee of cuttlefish and sad pot-au-feu; and the revived Comptoir Tournon, 18, rue de Tournon in the 6th, 01.43.26.16.16, serving oeufs mayo, cod filet and lots of lentils for 25-35 €. He also awarded a busted heart to the Japanese Oto-Oto in the 6th, with menus of 58 and 78 €. Wednesday, as often happens in France, they worry about “detoxing” from the holiday calorie/sugar gluttony and Figaroscope’s “ Dossier” by Colette Monsat, Alexandra Michot & Sylvain Verut was all about such places: Le Bar a soups for soup Le Bar Regency du Prince de Galles for a chic salad Rose Bakery 2 for veggies O Jardin for a plat du jour Pouse Ouse for herbal juice and raw chocolate 97 Bio for a lunch formula Phyto Bar for green tea and goji berries Myberry for fresh fruit juice Hotel de Sers for a “light” meal Diet Café for good an sane food, and then a brief interview with a diet “coach” from San Francisco – Valerie Orsini – who recommends ‘saba.” In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed the almost empty Citrus Etoile in the 8th where the 49 € “menu” is especially light at lunch with an asparagus (in January) amuse bouche, 1980-era salmon and caramelized marinated roast cod made like herring. Go again? Not so sure despite the good service. Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed a favorite of his: Alfred, (the one in the 1st not the 16th), where he sampled the artichoke hearts, celery soup, stewed lamb, roast veal, a Beaufort and apple tart. {He questions if the cost (50-60 € without wine) has kept people away and I must say that’s why I’ve looked at the carte but not entered.} Wednesday, the NYT had an article by Elaine Sciolino on Francois Simon entitled “In Paris, a critic criticized” of which we have a topic running. Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about ice wines and where to get them (Caves Augé in Paris). Thursday in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed La Mere Brazier in Lyon and the less than 30 E restaurant in Paris with an impeccable menu was Le Beaujolais d’Auteuil Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said to follow La Paiva, that the Antoine is in good shape and gives several places to eat at in Champagne and the Rhone Alps. Saturday in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon wrote about Glou, coordinates given before, that he calls the restaurant of the month. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about “Goodbye Gaston Lenotre & Bristol“ and John Talbott wrote an essay on “The Hero’s Farewell: Stepping off the Stage.” Sunday, in the NYT there was a “Bites” piece on Itineraires by Ann Morrison; and an article on Fontainebleau suggesting the Hotellerie du Bas Breau + Chez Bernard. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

The NYT Q&A by David Allan suggested the Jules Verne + Laperouse, the latter offering a 190 euro special menu sans wine. For next year, there were five places mentioned for St Valentines in l’Express – Mauboussin, l’Atelier des chefs, Bar Hemingway, Le Meurice + 144 Petrossian, costing 20, 18-30, 28, 295 + 150 € respectively. Jean-Claude Ribault, in last Friday’s Le Monde wrote about where to go for St Valentine’s Day, suggesting that rather than spending 350 € at the Bristol one try the 70 and 49 € menus (at the first two) and undisclosed sums at the latter two: Relais d'Auteuil, La Tempête, 6 New York, + Le Thoumieux.

Darn, I was looking forward to it. Oh well. Thanks for warining me.And after your and Felice's raves about Gazzetta maybe it's time to revisit and I keep putting off Monjul even though it's right across from my barber and I met the chef there. Ahhh, would you care to reveal its name?Thanks for this wonderful report; I just wish everybody who seeks info here would report back.

The 22 E menu holds at lunch and while it's true that a la carte is more (Colette's palombe was 24 E); our total 10 days ago was 68 E.

Just after I wrote the above, I encountered the following in an article by Elizabeth Jensen in the NYT of December 28th 2008: "Back in 1993, when Ruth Reichl was a new food critic for The New York Times, she famously reviewed the high-society restaurant Le Cirque from two perspectives: as an insider coddled with foie gras and majestically attentive service, and as “the unknown diner” shunted into the smoking section, treated with indifference bordering on contempt and even given raspberries a third the size of those she was offered when recognized on a later visit." See also the Bill Buford/Mario Batali quote beneath my signature.

I'm one who has already weighed in on the subject but to repeat, I had a great first (after the redo in 2006) meal and a so-so second one. My memory is so bad that I cannot recall the pre-2006 cheese-board but in 2006 it was fine. As for: La Regalade (spotty) Racines (yes to the one in the 2nd not the 6th) Chez L'Ami Jean (quintessential but crowded) Itinéraires (very spotty) le Jeu de Quilles [lunch only I understand] (correct, nice) la Fontaine de Mars [for Sunday dinner] (not for years) Chez Denise (OK) Ledoyen (not for decades) Le Pamphlet (not to my taste but I'm an outlier).

At the breakfast table I wondered what sort of discussion this article would take; Would Elaine Sciolino be seen as too negative? Would M. Simon be seen as too snooty and deserving his comeuppence from diners? Would the anonymity/pay for meals issues resurface? Would we go through the whole Antoine Ego thing again? I'm someone who, especially because of the need to "digest" Simon's pieces at least twice a week, is often perplexed by his prose, which at times uses ancient words and at times such trendy ones I have to seek counsel. On the other hand, he at least does stick his neck out and say Go, No Go, whether in code or plain text, whereas too many others are pitching their review(s) to an audience or seemingly non-committal. As for anonymity and pay-per-meal, we've exhausted the latter subject but not the former: however, since Ms Sciolino gives his clothing away, his voice is clear on his hidden-camera bits and most sensible chefs have his picture posted, how anonymous is he? Sure, he "refuses" to attend awards dinners, "declines" to have his photo on his books and articles, and makes reservations and pays bills in other-than-his-name, but insiders know him. An interesting man M. Simon and worthy of the "newspaper of record."

Yup, correction made. Yikes. Well, just today, Le Fooding put up Glou that they categorize as Vin sur Vin, so wine is covered. It's at 101, r. Vieille du Temple 75003 PARIS T 01 42 74 44 32 m° Filles du Calvaire Closed Tuesdays Costs about 30 €. ← Wasn't that GLOU? ←

Well, just today, Le Fooding put up Glou that they categorize as Vin sur Vin, so wine is covered. It's at 101, r. Vieille du Temple 75003 PARIS T 01 42 74 44 32 m° Filles du Calvaire Closed Tuesdays Costs about 30 €.

Did it comment on their quality? The lamb curry at La Coupole would have disappointed us if it had come from a cheap London Indian takeaway.EDIT: Whoops! I forgot that I'd already commented on this last August. ← I rarely save the sidebar comments; but I suspect it was more of a list than an opinion.

Chris: I ate there in May and thought it was the best meal of the week. All was good.

The Week of January 5th, 2009 Tuesday in Le Fooding Sebastien Demorand reviewed Mon Oncle, coordinates given before, where he encountered Quentin Tarantino and Melanie Laurent and good food such as an anthologic côte de bœuf, cochonnailles, l’os à moelle, morteau aux lentilles and a Mont d’Or and good well-priced wine. Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard reviewed Antoine, coordinates already given, prices a bit more elevated (198 E for a whole bar de ligne) than the prior review indicated. His colleague Jerome Berger reviewed Le Bouco ex-Boucleon, coordinates ditto, where he commented on the reasonable prices and smiling service. The sidebar briefly noted La Fidelite, coordinates given, commenting on the cod and pot-au-feu. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope opened the year with two two-heart reviews: La Fidelité, coordinates given, which he calls a “sincere effort” offering asparagus blanquette, pot-au-feu of pork cheeks and lemon tart and the Café Moderne, ditto, noting that it has regularly changed hands but now has a more expensive carte but OK menus (30 and 39 €, noon and nite) for fois gras, beef filet and a vanilla millefeuille. His three one-hearters included: the Italian Romantica Caffé Villiers in the 17th (an offshoot of the one in Clichy;) Les Enfants Perdus, 9, rue des Recollets in the 10th, 01.81.29.48.26, closed Sunday dinner, lunch formula = 13 and a la carte 35-40 € for pumpkin soup, a tartine, chicken and overcooked scallops; and the Restaurant du Marriott, 70 ave Champs-Elysees, 01.53.93.55.00, open everyday, lunch formula = 35, menu = 45 and a la carte 50-60 € for crab cake, chicken fricassee and chocolate tart fondante. In this week’s “Dossier” Emmanuel Rubin listed the openings/events of 2009 {some of which have already been mentioned here or in the “Restaurant, Food and Chef News” topic: January Le Glou, a bistro launched by Julien Fouin, formerly editor of Régal and now with Cuisine TV, on the rue Vieille-du-Temple, Le Barbezingue, a new hangout will be opened in Châtillon by the bistronomic Thierry Faucher (L'Os à Moelle, la Cave de l'Os à Moelle + Les Symples), Le Cristal Room will pass from the direction of Thierry Burlot to Guy Martin, (Le Grand Véfour + Miyou) Le Bus, 6, rue Pierre Fontaine, in the 9th, will open a resto between nightclub shows, February-March-April Daniel Rose version large will be opened by the “Jack Kerouac of the ovens,” on the rue Bailleul, L'Arbuci, Corso + Balto on the rue Buci, place Frantz-Litz + blvd Magenta, respectively by Costes Junior, Le Thoumieux, 79, rue Saint-Dominique, by Thierry Costes and Jean-François Piège, of Les Ambassadeurs, Food in shop [sic] Ralph Lauren Bilboquet, 13, rue Saint-Benoît, again by the Costes, Camdeborde côté comptoir, 3, carrefour de l'Odéon, for l'apéro, L'Energie Lounge Café, 32, avenue George-V ex-Renoma Café, by Thierry Marx from Cordeilhan-Bages, Ozu + Laboratoire, May-June Le 104, 5, rue Curial, a bar run by the Tokyo Eat team, in June, a resto run by the gang from the Friche Belle de Mai, from Marseille. Later Le Bec, Nicolas, from Lyon takes over a restaurant at the Opéra Garnier, Royal Monceau, avenue Hoche, opens several restaurants, Shangri-La, in the 8th Mandarin, in the 1st. Last minute D'Chez Eux, sold, Brespail, replaced by an Italian place, Relais de l'Entrecôte, opens another on the place du Maréchal-Juin, la Pizzetta, opens a “little sister.” And also The Hôtel Hi of Nice will open a twin on the rue de Charonne in September, Délicabar, at Bon Marché, henceforth run by the Italians from the Casa Bini, will host pâtissier Sébastien Gaudard’s tea salon Ippudo, a Japanese ramen chain, will open several places. Without forgetting several places that opened in 2008 La Table du Palace Derriere Jadis + Antoine. Comings and Goings L'École du thé du Palais des Thés, 7, rue de Nice, L’École de cuisine Alain-Ducasse in the 16th, www.atelier-gastronomique.com. New sales sites www.fraicolo.fr, an online supermarket, www.albertmenes.fr, from Albert Ménès, Shopping tours in Paris Succulent Paris, www.succulent-paris.com. New concepts Les Mécanos du gout, butcher-drugstore at 4 bis, avenue Joffre, in Houilles, Les Marguerite, in Paris next March. In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon says about going to the Casa Luca in the 8th – an Italian place occupying the ex-Cap Vernet space - “Naaaaaaan!” Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Delices Shandong in the 13th, liking it. Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about how chefs are adapting to the economic crisis. {I’ve posted his findings here.} Thursday in l’Express, there was a “last interview” by Francois-Regis Gaudry with Gaston Lenotre and on their website there’s a slide show. Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski said to follow Meating + Laduree le bar, that the Relais Plaza + Momoka are in good shape and gives several places to eat at in Compeigne and Vienne. Friday there were three pieces on the death of Gaston Lenotre summarized on that topic. Jacques Pessis’s obit was one. Saturday in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon wrote about la Cigale d’Or in Seillonnaz. He also wrote a piece of his New Year’s complaints, that included: Too many types of bread. 4 figure bills. Beets. Artistic desserts. Church service type ceremonial meals. Amuse bouches the size of dinners. Forcing the diner to hear a recitation of the menu. Souless but expensive wines. The Michelin's somnolence; in Paris for example regarding Paul Bert + Le Comptoir. Also, in Saturday’s Figaro, Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon wrote an article on the trends we’ll see in 2009: Return of the dinner show: for example at the Palace, Bus Palladium + VIP Room Theater and jazz at Bilboquet or operatic at the Garnier. Local food not slow food: 160 km max plus Japanese and artisanal influences. The Michelin tapping up le Bristol + Michel Roth’s Ritz. Guy Martin’s replacing his lost star with 10 activities: restos (Grand Vefour, Miyou, Cristal Room), lessons (l’Atelier,) a book and TV. The fruit of the year – cedrat (Buddha’s hand). The accessory of the year – an apple-peeler (replacing the mandolin). Palace news – extension of the Bristol, new brasserie at Les Crayeres, renovation of the Crillon, Piege’s move to Thoumieux and reopening of several places at the Royal Monceau. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote two essays: on about his Ten Best Meals in 2008 and the other on What it takes to write food criticism well. Sunday, in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau summarized places to go for soup: Le Bar a soups Zoe Bouillon Soup & Juice Bar a soups et quenelles. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Economic hard times: it all depends. The last few weeks we’ve been largely eating at, if not golden oldies at least silver and bronzes….. with very interesting results. First, no matter what’s happening, some are doing quite well and chasing people away. The King of reservations, is of course, Daniel Rose of Spring, which has a waiting list into eternity (well, that’s a slight exaggeration – Figaroscope said it’s only five months) and since it’s closing February 26th with no sign of opening soon downtown or elsewhere despite what you read here or in Figaroscope, the seats are cherished. But also, Le Clocher Periere is bursting (because the chef says he’s trying hard to keep costs down as the economy plunges); Le Gaigne was sending folks coming in for their 22 € formula which features great chow, without reservations away, Ze Kitchen Galerie seems to be holding its prices down too despite the acquisition of a Michelin star (and with changing dishes, which pleases us greatly) and l’Idee was full despite its location outside the city limits. And the Table d’Eugene (Sue) now has two seatings at night, it’s that popular. L’Epigramme, Mon Vieil Ami, Miroir + Lao Lane Xang 2 were almost completely full. But Jadis – “the Bistro of the Year,” Goumard “the comeback kid” and the revived Bistro 121, on the other hand, were not and l’Assiette was empty for hours until a few frozen locals arrived. So, it’s a mixed message, puzzled picture, confusing condition from France right now, for me at least. For those interested in prices (with the exception of one extra bottle of wine consumed while chatting up a friendly chef over an afternoon) these are the bills in Euros for two with wine and coffee but no bottled water: Ze Kitchen Galerie, 106.30 Mon Vieil Ami, 100.75 Spring, 95 Jadis, 91 Agapes, 89.90 Goumard, 86 L’Epigramme, 82.50 Bistro 121, 80 l’Assiette, 81 Miroir, 79 Clocher Periere, 77.50 l’Idee, 70 Le Gaigne, 68 La Table de Eugene, 68 Lao Lane Xang 2, 38.70

For Hermé watchers, Figaro noted today he'll be bring out 5 heart shaped desserts for St Valentine's Day.

In Saturday’s Figaro, Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon wrote an article on the trends we’ll see in 2009: Return of the dinner show: for example at the Palace, Bus Palladium + VIP Room Theater as well as jazz at Bilboquet and operatic at the Garnier. Local food not slow food: 160 km max plus Japanese and artisanal influences. The Michelin tapping up le Bristol + le Ritz. Guy Martin’s replacing his lost star with 10 activities: restos (Grand Vefour, Miyou, Cristal Room), lessons (l’Atelier,) a book and TV. The fruit of the year – cedrat (Buddha’s hand). The accessory of the year – an apple-peeler (replacing the mandolin). Palace news – extension of the Bristol, new brasserie at Les Crayeres, renovation of the Crillon, Piege’s move to Thoumieux and the reopening of several places at the Royal Monceau.

The tributes to him in Le Figaro by chef/patisseurs Bocuse, Robuchon, Ducasse, Mulot, Krenzer and Herme are wonderful as is the obit by Jacques Pessis and essay by Francois Simon (still only on the pdf version). The IHT's, however, is spare and tucked in after that of Didier Aaron.Edited 12 Jan to update link.

To return to the subtitle of this topic about where to eat in these economic times, Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote about how chefs are adapting to the economic crisis (predicting a fall of 30% in business in ’09) and finds the following: Le Café du Commerce offering a “family menu” of familiar favorites at 19.50 €, Les Terrines de Gérard Vié, serving lots of terrines, etc., on a formula at 24 and menu-carte at 34 €, Le Zebra Square, serving Lebanese mezzes, 9 cold for 16 or 7 hot for 18 €, Six New York, offering solid food on menu-cartes of 30 and 35 €, L’Escarbille in Meudon, one star, offers a 44 € menu, Mori Venice Bar, offering a 40 € menu, supposedly indexed to the CAC 40, Taillevent's menu at 80 €, Lasserre's at 75 €, Savoy still 100 €, And Ducasse’s places offering truffles at market cost until March 13th.

Add Goumard. And am I the only one who still haunts that old haunt, the Bistro du Dome "discovered" almost 20 years ago by P. Wells?