John Talbott

Far be it from me to comment from a distance, but Martin set up his Sensing's as very different from Le Grand Vefour. Whatever you think of the mother ship, it's a three-star and the Sensing's are like Robuchon and Ducasse's offshoots, money-makers, supposedly staffed with good ex-sous-chefs. My personal impression at the Paris one was while it was over-priced, it was quite good (my wife Colette disagreed).

OK, my friend will up the bidding to 150 E per couple (it's not I, as some have suspected) and its not necessarily romantic but celebratory. ← Because he is your friend I'll recommend the following for less than 150 euros/person. La table de Robuchon. Drouand Senderens Sensing ← Unfortunately it's 150 EUR for two, not per person! I'm sometimes asked that question with about the same prices and find it extremely difficult to answer, so I'm really interested in seeing what some of you have in mind! ← Thanks to both of you. Well, not to be coy, but my original response was Drouant and not the Table but the Atelier de J.R. to which I added: Rech + La Maree after my meal there yesterday. I also told him to go to Le Meurice for lunch and have salami in his hotel room at night but as I said above he has to work.

In this morning's IHT, an AP story quotes Michel Barnier as saying that France will support more wine tours "to help counter falling wine sales...." - saying that wine consumption has fallen 7% so far [emphasis mine] this year and 10% last year. They've also created a new "Wine Tourism Board."

OK, my friend will up the bidding to 150 E per couple (it's not I, as some have suspected) and its not necessarily romantic but celebratory.

A dear American friend and colleague sent me a request for a place to take his French born wife to for her 50th birthday and would like "something that will really blow her away? Despite growing up in France, she is not so into the traditional heavily buttered, rich French cuisine, but loves lighter nouveau fusion cusines." I gave some suggestions as well as saying they should go to lunch and eat salami at night, but it seems he has to work during the day, so I thought this was a terrific topic for the "usual suspects." Ideas?

Is it my misimpression or are there more entrees (firsts) with eggs in them these days. It could be: 1. A trend/fad 2. The economy or 3. The central planning playbook that says this year it's purees, millefeuilles, exotic fruit, pumpkin soup, nougat, clafoutis, etc.

Well, I gave them 24 hours and then pounced; but neither FNAC St Lazare nor Galeries Lafayette had the 2009; lots of 2008's still there though (the lady at FNAC said "the press disseminated misinformation.") Hummm. And, after all that build up.

Interesting coincidence. I just got off the phone with Phyllis/Felice who was exploring such; Les Papilles in the 5th is both a wine bar and resto and one can reserve the downstairs that seats 14 comfortably; stand around and talk with wine of course, then eat (their menu is 28.50 E).

Indeed. We visited without this information and enjoyed a very ordinary meal in the inside dining room. It was ameliorated by two charming young Basque couples sitting next to us who wanted to practice their English. I will also repeat my past warning about Lena et Mimile: the modern menu is only served half the year! Check that it's available when you book. ← Thanks to all for the advice! I assume I just mention that I would like a seat at Afaria's common table when I make a reservation? ← I forget if they take reservations there. I always go early (that is, on time) to make sure I can sit there.

I don't know but after eating for 9 days in Italy, there was no problem with reservations except at a hot trattoria in Bologna for a Sunday lunch (duuuuh). I'm afraid the economic problems are widespread.

The Week of February 23rd, 2009 Tuesday in Le Fooding, Jim Bowie reviewed Le 126, in Lyon. Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 to La Cocotte du Saint-Jo, 147, ave Parmentier in the 10th, 01.42.40.15.57, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with formulas from 16-24 € of tasteless and overcooked food {why did he give it a 2?}; while Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the Thai Khaosan Rd in the 9th. In the side-bar they mention the reopening of D’Chez Eux in the 8th with its XXL portions of traditional French food, costing 60 € a la carte (lunch formulas are 37 and 43 €.) Tuesday in l’Express, Pierrick Jégu picked as his resto for under 30 € the new Bistrot d’a Cote, coordinates given before, where he found the food better, the wine affordable and the service perfect, {as opposed to prior reviewers.} Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated three places as 2/5: Le Barbezingue, coordinates given before, which is the Os offshoot, having both a Symples-like buffet and an Os-like resto on another floor, he had garlic chicken in beef bouillon, oysters and pig’s feet and veal breast; Le Petit Champerret, ditto, with a reasonable formula at lunch (22) but inflated a la carte at dinner (40-50 €), serving mimosa leeks, boar or ox tail with mashed potatoes and French toast or tiramisu; and the Italian Caffé dei Cioppi in the 11th. One heart each went to: the Thai Thaim, in the 1st and Café Francoeur, 129, rue Caulincourt in the 18th, 01.53.28.00.15, open 7/7, a Disneyland type place halfway between Peter Pan and Space Mountain, serving stuff like a croque-monsieur for a good 20 Euros. Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al, discussed good ideas during the economic crisis. Suggestions include: Truffles at cost at Aux Lyonnais, Rech, Benoit + Spoon, New lowered “menus” at Goumard, Market + La Maree, 50 (with wine), 34 and 35 € respectively, A “menu” priced (34-40 €) according to the CAC (eg French Dow Jones/S&P) at Mori’s Venice Bar, One dish (25 €) at l’Alcazar, A frequent eater card at Les Ombres, costing one 45 € including water, wine and coffee versus 38 at lunch and 80-100 € at dinner, 1 Euro sandwiches at Goutu, Without forgetting: Helene Darroze, Maison Blanche, Cantouche Panama + Le Café du Commerce for respectively, meals at 25, 69, 10.50 and 25.50 €, Or the pioneers: Senderens, Drouant, Violin d’Ingres + Les Petites Sorciers where one can eat at 120, 43-80, 75 and 25-60 € respectively. In addition, in his “Hache Menu,” in today's Scope, F. Simon says that while the 9.90 € menu at L'Auberge, 124, boulevard du Montparnasse, in the 14th, 01 56 54 01 55, appears to be the deal of the century, the food is banal and more like that at a “train station.” Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update wrote a most glowing report on Gilles Choukroun’s new resto MBC {that sounds a lot like what he served at both the Café Very + MiniPalais.} Wednesday, Gilles Pudlowski in this week's Le Point wrote that Chez Vong + Caméléon were in good form and he's going to follow the Romantica caffè + L'Européen, the brasserie facing the Gare de Lyon, at 21 bis, blvd Diderot in the 12th, 01.43.43.99.70 which has menus at 26, 32 E. a la carte : 50 E and has been revived by the Joulie group. Friday/Saturday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about the revolution at the Michelin, where there have been three editorial directors in the last 8 years, versus three in the prior 56 years. He had another article about how French cuisine was still the living reference point for chefs from Japan to Sweden. In Le Figaro Saturday in a separate article, called the “B side of gastronomy,” (that great scientific resource, Wikipedia says that “the B-side, or flipside, is a secondary song that often does not appear on a band’s LP,”) Francois Simon provides a number of examples of French restaurants, the A ones better known, but the B ones just as good. The following are his picks (the first being the A, the second B): Alain Ducasse - l’Auberge Basque Maxim’s - Le Train Bleu Helene Darroze - Casa Olympe Thierry Marx - Ze Kitchen Galerie L’Arpege - La Chassagnette Bocuse - La Mere Brazier Guilo Guilo - Miyabi a Sens. He then, in his “Croque Notes” and blog, wrote about Maxim’s which he says is dying while remaining in the last century. He quotes the lyrics of the famous Otis Reading song being played by a clarinetist: “Sitting on the dock of the bay/Watching the tide roll away(…)Wasting my time” and suggests it’s time for the Pierre Cardin management to step down/aside. In this month’s Where, Alexander Lobrano favorably recommends Le Café Lumiere in the Hotel Scribe {haven’t we been down this road before?} as well as golden oldies 16 Haussmann + Le Café du Commerce. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Matthew - assuming you know Noura's here, what do you make of that?I just had two straight nights take-out of what my downstair's pal calls Nourashment for 13.62 Euros and was quite happy. Different product, different chefs, different water?

Julot: given you wrote this in July 08 and only recently (2 weeks ago) folks like Rubin reviewed it, has anything changed between July and February?Still think it merits a visit? Thanks.

Tomorrow to be exact (with a lot of hoopla) although all the "news" has been leaked and published already.

Today in the JDD {I wonder what they’ll call it next Saturday?} Aurelie Chaigneau had an interview with Alain Ducasse announcing the second year of lunch menus at 28 € at 100 Chateau & Hotels, March 16th to May 15th, which also quoted him as saying that cooking was 60% products, 35% technique and 5% talent. Also, January 25th, in an interview in the Guardian Joel Robuchon said: “the current economic crisis will lead to a revolution…three-starred Michelin restaurants are more …empty because there are fewer...business lunches,"…Now, people…want one main course, one dessert,….We have to adapt to that…This is the most important economic crisis I've faced in my career. Restaurants will close if they don't adapt…banks are not lending…people struggling…no longer want to pay for overly complicated meals. Straitened times call for simpler, more honest dishes and fewer courses…My mantra is 'Eat the truth'. I hate going to restaurants where you don't know [what’s]...on the plate…I tell my chefs that the best plates have a mixture of two or three flavours…Sometimes it…can be advantageous because new ideas can emerge for a new age." In addition, it mentions that he has just introduced a £19 two-course set menu for lunch.

The famous starred French chef Marc Veyrat is closing his last place in France and from the France Forum: And also, according to this week's l'Express establishing a bio restaurant and molecular lab in Beroun, in a forest 20 km outside Prague.

And also, according to this week's l'Express establishing a bio restaurant and molecular lab in Beroun, in a forest 20 km outside Prague.

In today's JDD the following are suggested: La Maison des Trois Thes for waking up the senses Jugetsudo for a Japanese break La Maison de la Chine for a celestial breakfast l'Ecole du the du Palais des Thes to learn how l'Empire des Thes to switch gears.

Update: For some reason, oh yes, I was en route to lunch on the Rue St Paul, I found myself at Thanksgiving. It's wonderful and horrible at the same time; Reese's bits and Fruit Loops, but also many tins of Old Bay. I cruised it and left empty-handed; maybe someday.....

Indeed. We visited without this information and enjoyed a very ordinary meal in the inside dining room. It was ameliorated by two charming young Basque couples sitting next to us who wanted to practice their English. I will also repeat my past warning about Lena et Mimile: the modern menu is only served half the year! Check that it's available when you book. ← Not to complicate things, but this represents a typical problem in searching info on hours, menus, etc., available. "Early adopters," (I admit guilt,) often report hours and days (cf Spring) and menus and meals (ie Afaria) and prices (too numerous to give) that change after the first few weeks. I just got caught in such a bind today at the Villa Pereire, reported to be open 6/7 in reviews and on their website, I called the repondeur to reserve, shlepped over - closed - but luckily I had Plan B in place. So phone, but even phoning does not ensure 100% compliance.

Today's Figaro Business Section had two side-by-side articles revealing the magnitude of the crisis. The first one, only now in the pdf version, is about scallops and said that while Jan & Feb are traditionally "bad" months, this year is "catastrophic;" 120 tons are winding up frozen. The good news for we frequenters of the supermarkets is that they're going for 3.50 E a kilo and even 5-7 E in the street stalls. The optimists are counting on Easter and long weekends to improve things, Nathalie Bougeard says; although last week 40 tons were tossed out. Then linked with the sale of the Red Guide Monday, Florentin Collomp reports in an article, also now only in pdf, wonderfully titled "The blues of the great starred chefs," that while Le Meurice, l'Atelier de.... + Ze are weathering the storm, "certain palaces are empty some nights." He suggests that the successful chefs are managing because of their contracts and consultation fees with big hotels. Of note: the 3rd best paid chef is Gordon Ramsay ($7,500,000 in revenues); the salary of a 3-star chef is between 144,000-180,000 E a year "without counting in the 5,000-15,000 E 'extras' a day.") This may not be John Thain-land but it's interesting.

Pierre - We should clarify for Al and all that the reason to sit at the common table at Afaria is that you get the tapas-type stuff there and no longer at the tables farther inside and it's the tapas-type stuff that makes the place interesting. And it's hardly the Group "W" bench; Pudlo eats there.

I read on lesrestos.com that it closed 18 novembre 2008. As far as Pierre and I are concerned, not one day too soon.

Well, Phyllis/Felice and I ate today at a really creative place run by a really creative guy - Gilles Choukroun's three week old MBC, 4, rue du Debarcadere in the 17th, 01.45.72.22.55, closed Saturday noon and Sundays. (I'll be posting my full report in 10 days, per usual.) M. Choukroun is the darling of the Generation "C"/Omnivore/Le Fooding Gang but our incredibly genial/joking waiter confirmed that where we'd been eating since he left the Cafe des Delices in 2004 (which I loved) - specifically the Angl’Opera, Café Very + MiniPalais, plus other ephemeral gigs, were all really hands-off, consulting/overseeing/etc. jobs, not hands-on ones and he's at the piano again here (at least every night - we didn't see him exit after the lunch service today.) Which to get back to Al's challenge, brings up all the other Generation "C"/Omnivore/Le Fooding favorites; eg David Zuddas, Iñaki Aizpitarte, Thierry Marx, etc. They're all supposed to be creative and not available in New York. Thoughts?

Not much argument from me, altho' Colette's version made from Eddie's stock rules.