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John Talbott

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by John Talbott

  1. OK, how about this; do you believe that a resto called Frenchie, that I'm told by secret sources, Daniel Rose of ex and future Spring has been to two or three times, has menus at lunch for 16 and 19 and 27 or 33 € at dinner can serve product-driven food so that two folk can be most satisfied (with a full bottle of wine and three coffees) for 62.90 €? Ah ha. Check it out: Frenchie, 5, rue du Nil in the 2nd, 01 40 39 96 19, closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday lunch, chef’d by an ex-Jamie Oliver, ex-New York but very French guy, hence the name.
  2. I never, well hardly ever, disagree with my charming cohost, but if the truth be known, while her advice is sage - (that is, reserve for the biggies - Arpege and/or Gagnaire weeks ahead), and I ALWAYS reserve, even for coffee at my ratty bar/cafe, right now, places are empty at night and half-full at lunch and at places like l'Os a Moelle and Cave du l'Os a Moelle, Aux Lyonnais, Le Troquet one can do it once here and unless things have changed, Le Cantine du Troquet + Cafe Constant take no rez's. As folks who read between the lines know I eat out 99% of the time at lunch and cook for myself at night (unless Colette or Deb are favoring me) and I think this is the way to go, but then I'm not sure which is my day and night job. So as for you bet, and while you'll need to hide it more at the Parc Monceau, do it.The bottom line is that you're in Paris, it's great, you'll not starve anywhere and well, life is short but flavorful (and the asparagus and tomatoes and spring cheeses are in).
  3. Well, after Pti's post about Pierre's and my experiences at Lipp I hesitate to answer, because, as an American, I see my kin everywhere. But I'd say the "Flo-ification" is like my brother-in-law described Holiday Inn's, they're not much, but you know what to expect. As all who read Adam Gopkik's piece on saving Balzar know, he never went back years later (to my knowledge) and I did and suffered through a tough meal. That said, when Colette and I were hosting our 2 ten-year olds last month, we took them to Bofinger for the decor and when I alight at the Gare du Nord at 9 PM, I go to the Terminus Nord. But I'm not on a celebratory week.I suspect they're closed in August, but three places that I've tried recently are "product-driven" and wonderful - MBC, Frenchie and tmrw Passage 53. Confucius said "Go with your heart." PS The other "brasserie" you mentioned was Ma Bourgogne, I dunno, it's been years since I've been.
  4. I agree with Pierre (as usual) that your list has a lot of either subpar or touristy brasseries - probably because they're open in August. I'm down on brasseries after a succession of mediocre meals in them. The best of the lot though, I think, is Lorraine on the Ternes Square, which says it's open in August.There is a compendium on August, let me know by PM if the links are broken. Also very few places take the whole month off, often it's the first two or last two weeks so checking is worthwhile.
  5. I'm sure you've already searched here but there is one Merged topic that has a lot of info up to 2008.
  6. Hugo Desnoyer is the butcher who supplies many of the good meat places: Hugo Desnoyer, 45, rue Boulard (14e), tél.0145407667. Of your list I would support (one man's opinion) in this order: Afaria 15 rue Desnouettes 48561536 Bistrot du Dôme 1 rue Delambre 75014 43353200 A Casaluna 4-6 rue de Beaujolais 42600511
  7. Today's Figaro reported that champagne sales were down 30% the first trimester of '09 compared to '08.
  8. Well, let's see. Breton; Chez Michel & lots of crepes places (Breizh Cafe most notably) and today's 'Scope had another Nominoe that I'll post on the Digest Monday. Southwest: l'Auberge des Pyrenees-Cevennes, Sarladais, Trou Gascon. Auvergne: Auberge Aveyronnaise, Ambassade d'Auvergne. Medit: Mediterranee. Alsatian: the brasseries, Chez Jenny most reputed (huge charcuterie). Basque: Au Bascou, Afaria, Cerisaie Corsican: A Casaluna whose ardoise I just admired again today. Lyonnais: Aux L. Provence: Bastide Odeon. For seafood I concur on the Bistro du Dome but also really liked the new La Maree + Goumard's make-over. A friend had a great meal last week at Garnier but I have not been in years; ditto Au Boeuf Couronne home of the last pommes souffles which weren't so great. Is Jeu de Quilles open in August, next to Desnoyer it's got good meat.
  9. The Week of April 13th, 2009 Tuesday in Le Fooding, Anna Polonsky reviewed Frenchie, 5, rue du Nil in the 2nd, 01 40 39 96 19, closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday lunch, chef’d by an ex-Jamie Oliver, ex-New York guy, serving a lunch menu at 19 € for parsley/lentil puree, salmon with fennel and rhubarb/raspberry pannacotta and 24 € wines. There’s also a lunch formula at 16€ and dinner menus for 27 or 33 €. Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard and Jerome Berger wrote about “cantines” in the 1st-10th arrondissements that are not pricey. They included: Le Bam Passage 53 Le care des Vosges Le Gaigne Le Reminet first mention of a new globe-trotting team Le Timbre Firmin le Barbier L’Abordage Les Pates Vivantes Ploum. In addition on the website Philippe Toinard wrote up restaurants under 20 €, listing: Le Petit Curieux La Canaille Lilane L’Epi Dupin Le Bar A Manger Le Cafe Constant Urbane Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts and the photo to Obé, at the Crillon, 4 Boissy d’Anglas in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.15, which despite the name (eg aka Obelisque) serves gastronomic French food (such as oeuf cocotte with shrimp, crab with spices, veal sweetbreads and raspberry pastry) for 80-120 € and is open 7/7; and two hearts each to the previously mentioned Bistro Volnay coordinates on Rue Volney [sic] given before, and l’Atelier Mazarine, 43, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.43.54.12.43, open 7/7, costing a la carte 40 € (lunch formula at 18 € and brunch on weekends), serving octopussalad, duck breast and chocolate dome dessert. One heart each went to La Garconniere, 98 rue Michel-Ange in the 16th, 01.46.51.27.50, open 7/7, half-brasserie/half-bistrot serving for 30-40 oeufs mayo, entrecote and old boy compte as well as Le Relais de la Bucherie, 1 rue de la Bucherie in the 5th, 01.43.29.73.57, open 7/7, running one 25-40 € for snout vinegarette, chicken fricassee and apple tarte. In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al discussed Rice dishes in Paris: Arroz Fogon Rice pudding Atelier Maitre Albert Le Comptoir du Relais La Regalade Café Constant Crusty rice Lao Lane Xang II Biryani Ratn Risotto l’Osteria Ta Peir La Mousson Coconut rice with mango Suan Thai Tiep bou dienn Waly Fay Donburi Zen Bibimbap Manna Cantonese rice Imperial Choisy Rice wine Worshop Isse Youlin In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed a Korean rice place Sobane, in the 9th where he hedges whether to go. Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Quedubon and will not be going back. Thursday/Friday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about asparagus. Thursday, in L’Express, Jégu Pierrick, wrote up the Nominoë, 13 rue Castex in the 4th, 01.42.72.95.35, closed Sundays as his resto under 30 € and Yves Nespoulous, reviewed as his La Comédie des vins in Nantes. Finally, François-Régis Gaudry said La Societe was his resto of the week. Saturday, Francois Simon reviewed L’Aubergade in Dury, near Amiens, in his “Croque Notes.” Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Citrus Etoile and Café du Commerce and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “When do you walk out?” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
  10. I thought this morning's Figaroscope's "C'est nouveau" mention of a new Jewish New York deli Schwartz's Deli, 16, rue des Ecouffes in the 4th was worth passing on even though Rubin only gave it one heart.
  11. The Week of April 6th, 2009 Tuesday in Le Fooding, Alexandre Cammas wrote a piece about creative risk-taking chefs (Camdeborde, Aizpitarte, Costes, Bordarier, Bocuse, Jego, Rabanel, Bras, Adria, Ledeuil, Herraiz, Rose, Ducasse, Cohen, Mazouz…), that recommended two new places: Passage 53, 53 Passage des Panoramas in the 2nd, 01 42 33 04 35, closed Sundays, a la carte 38-44 €, serving half-terroir, half-Japanesy food such as a tartare of veal with oysters, sole with an oyster emulsion, beef tartare and a green tea crème brulee and La Cantine Merci, 111 Bvd Beaumarchais in the 3rd, 01 42 77 78 92, open for lunch except Sundays, a “friendly grocery” serving “snacks” such as lentil salad, fennel carpaccio with crispy zucchini, risotto and crumble for about 22 €. Tuesday as well, ANP’s Jerome Berger reviewed the Chinese-French Yam’tcha, coordinates already given. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 3/4 hearts to the Japanese Issé in the first but 2/4 hearts and the photo to the above-mentioned Passage 53 which does have a 19 € lunch formula despite what was recounted above and serves a bavette and fries and strawberry pannacotta and 2/4 as well to the Italian Il Prezzemolo in the 3rd. One 1/4 hearts each though went to the aforementioned Cantine Merci serving chicken breast and a buffet of desserts and the Mexican-ate Zicatela in the 4th. In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al listed the Regional Italian places in Paris: Sicily Casa Vigata Campagna Cucina Napoletana Bartolo Venice Mori Venice Bar Sardinia Sardegna a tavola Tuscany Casa Bini Procopio Angelo Zoom regions La Rucola Plus the most: Bobo Al Taglio, Champs-Elysees Casa Luca, Riviera Mets Gusto, Business Class Barocco, Left bank Primo piano, Wine Divinamente Italiano, Classic R-tal, Re-classic Samesa, disconcerting Alice Pizza, and l’Antichambre + Le Sorza In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed one too: the Caffe dei Cioppi, in 11th where he says to go. Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Spanish Fogon in the 6th. Thursday/Friday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about chocolate Easter eggs (from Jean-Paul Hévin, Michel Cluizel and Christophe Michalak) and lamb (he recommends looking for Elovel, which supplies the great restos; and “label Rouge” from Gironde and Sisteron as well as Allaiton de l'Aveyron (Jacques et Bernard Greffeuille, Le Bayle, 12390 Rignac) but also restaurants that have fumoirs: Goumard-Prunier, Tante Marguerite, L'Atelier Berger, Boudoir + Le bistrot de Breteuil. Friday, in L’Express, Jégu Pierrick, wrote up the Caffé dei Cioppi in the 11th as his resto under 30 € and Andréa Petrini, reviewed as hers Le 126 in Lyon. Finally, François-Régis Gaudry said Yam'Tcha was his resto of the week. Saturday, Alexandra Michot published a two-page spread in Figaro entitled “Choco City” about all the great chocolate places from M. Chocolat to Arnaud Larher. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Maceo + Auguste and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Eating with Kids: II.” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
  12. I don't want to be unresponsive myself, so in addition to the topics suggested above, I'll give some very personal responses: For great old stars: le Bristol, Ducasse, Gagnaire, Table de Joel Robuchon. For newer neat stars: Ze Kitchen Galerie, le Meurice, Fables de la Fontaine, Bigarrade, l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. Bistronomic: Paul Bert, Grand Pan, Afaria, Repaire de Cartouche. Bursts on the Scene: Café Constant, Cantine de Troquet, les Papilles, Clocher Periere. Seafood spots: La Maree, Goumard, Bistrot du Dome, Rech. Meat: Severo/Bis de Severo, Meating, Jeu de Quilles. In hibernation: Spring. Brand newbies: Table d’Eugene, Mon Oncle, Au Gout Dujour. TBR: Passage 53, Fabrique 4, Le Petit Curieux, Yam’Tcha. Beloved by others: l'Ami Louis, Helene Darroze, l'Astrance, Villaret, Caius.
  13. Could be; I too used to like it; but stopped going. Too much else going on as Fresh_A points out.
  14. Tonight, France 2 said (I assume their survey) that business is off: Gastro restos off 20-50% Traditional off 18-35%
  15. For vegetarian, check here and two seafood oldies recently renewed search for my reports on Goumard + La Maree.
  16. Saturday, Alexandra Michot published a two-page spread in Figaro entitled “Choco City” about all the great chocolate places from M. Chocolat to Arnaud Larher.
  17. I just put the following into the Search function: Visit, trip, days, week, best and got three pages of member's queries and replies as well as trip reports. You'll also find a recent topic below with up to date recommendations. Good luck.
  18. I agree, somethings happened there and my last two meals wrre "off."
  19. That's most helpful, thanks. You or someone else on the UK Forum wouldn't know whether the WH Smith in Paris would carry them?
  20. Greetings: The topic on food guides about London has some hints of what guides might be good for restos outside but I'd appreciate knowing folks' advice regarding restaurant/bisto/pub guides that are strong outside the London area. We are particularly interested in one(s) like Italy's Osterie/Slow Food Guide or Southern France's Guide Gantié, that is, for places with good product, well prepared, decor and elegance immaterial. And obviously we're not looking for French food. Thanks. John
  21. And now Pudlo's Bistro Guide is out and names La Table d'Eugène the Discovery of the Year, (hooray from the 18th.) And also released was the 2009 GaultMillau Paris that "consecrated" Itinéraires the best bistrot and one best from each arrondissement as well.
  22. Well, I haven't been in yars, but I do recall that the chicken was very good and the potato galette superb. That said, my own local rotisseur's chicken is only a peg below and 1/10th the price and I don't have to hear Americans bragging about just discovering the place. As for the galette, M. Constant does a pretty mean one at his Cafe. L'Ami was fun in 1968, now, like Maxim's, it's a museum.
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