John Talbott

An update on the Table d'Adrien. As some members know from Pti's blog, she was refused a reservation here because it's a "macho club." Today M. Adrien refused to take my reservation because I was in the food biz (despite the fact that when I ate there I specifically received his permission to write it up.) So, I would advise those seeking a table (and it was one terrific meal and I will miss not going back) to not mention anything having to do with gastronomy.

I was referring to Lafayette Gourmet on boulevard Haussmann. ← There are several eating places in the GL on Haussman; my take on the Chene Vert is as follows:5.05 Chene Vert, 99 Rue de Provence, 01.40.23.52.31, closed Sunday (when its host, Galeries Lafayette is). The easiest way to enter is from the GF wine shop and you find yourself suddenly in a restaurant not a department store. There is modern but not goofy furniture and superb service. The place is under the wing of David Van Laer whose food I liked at Maxence + Manufacture before that. It’s a nice menu but, as I was warned, a bit pricey, 45 € for the 3 course menu, but the wines are more reasonably priced (from 15-35 €). The amuse gueules looked “standard” but were superb. I didn’t like the choices on the carte, my companion had trouble deciding, but I was saved by the market menu. I started with the soup of lobster and lentils and diced undercooked (properly) veggies, she had a “minute” of tuna that was vastly over-cooked (the waiter apologetically said that’s the way the clientele (who, like Galeries Lafayette customers, are a mixed lot) like it – we didn’t, although the accompanying salad was good. Then I had sweetbreads with crunchy asparagus that was quite good; interestingly, her Iberian pork tasted more like superbly toasted on the outside, raw on the inside, slices of cote de boeuf than pork – it came with swiss chard and a butter croquette. Finally, I had the dessert special where the pineapple was terrific, the mango sorbet OK but the Magnolias-type shot glass full of a layered thing, was “so what?” Total = 110 €; do it again? I don’t think so. There are another dozen or so restos, bars, sandwicheries, sushi counters, etc only one of which I've sat down at and wouldn't recommend.

Felice is quite correct, there's no there there. Fouquet's had (past tense) a branch which was no great shakes anyway but some of the cantines/dining rooms of the great companies are good - for example, that at Soc Gen was terrific when we went a decade ago, but one needs to be invited. A few minutes away by Tram #2 is Pere Lapin in Suresnes; 6. 0 Pere Lapin, 10, rue de Calvaire in Suresnes (Tram #2 to the Suresnes stop and climb the hill), 01.45.06.72.89, closed Mon & Tues, is sited on Mont Valerian just in front of the Park and while you’re technically outside Paris, it has that suburb yet city feel to it, much like nearby St Cloud/Boulogne-Billancourt, all of which were built in roughly the same styles and periods.. They have a 2-course lunch menu for 20€, 3 are 25€, which is forced choice but looked great, so I took it; it consisted of a magnificent veloute of lentils with tiny slivers of ham, croutons and mascarpone; two small paving stones of bland swordfish with a wonderfully-offsetting grapefruit and orange sauce that redeemed the bland fish, on top a pissaladiere; and three most excellent roast figs stuffed with minced almond accompanied by an ice of verveine. This, plus a pichet of St Chinian and a coffee went for 40.50€. I went on a brilliantly sunny 70-77 degree F. afternoon and sat on the huge terrace and had a great time. I’ll be back - oh, there was lots of fish on the carte as well, bespeaking confidence in his supplier(s). The crowd was a bit too nouveau riche and shirts for me, but hey, that’s the nabe. By the way, an alternate way to go is the #244 bus from the Porte Maillot which goes straight thru and almost non-stop to Suresnes and took less time going back to “town” than the #1 Metro to La Defense and Tram #2 did to Suresnes. Walking down from the parvis of La Defense is Puteaux, where another place exists that I would discourage you from eating at - l'Escargot; A 1950’s country truck stop in La Defense 1.0 l’Escargot, 18, rue Charles Lorilleux in Puteaux (essentially La Defense), 01.47.75.03.66, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, has two menus; offering two dishes for 22 and three for 29 €. In a prior life, I directed a team that examined professional candidates for an advanced credential and I always cautioned the examiners to see two candidates before rating/grading the first so they’d have a better sense of the spread/range. Well, today’s meal set the floor/platform for the month of June. I invited as my guest the contemporary “hostess with the mostest” (does that date me or what?), Phyllis/Felice Flick, thinking that I was doing her a favor by inviting her to walk a mere 400 meters from work to dine at a place I was convinced would duplicate, if not exceed, my charming meal at Pere Lapin just a stop or two further down Tram line #2 in Suresnes last September; wrong! We met at Mitterand’s great arch and while a crow might fly 400 meters to the resto, we walked forever through the most bizarre set of lobbies, underpasses and passerelles I’ve ever seen (PS we had maps from Michelin, Mapquest and Yahoo and they were of no help). The restaurant is in a dumpy neighborhood, looks dumpy from outside and is dumpy within. The bread, however, looked great. The menu was most ample, with daily specials, and the wines were reasonably priced (18 € up). We started with light firsts; she had fine minces of bar cru with “fresh” mint that looked weeks old; I had fine ecrevisses with a great tangy sauce but served with extremely tired salad leaves. Then we both had wonderfully crusty meat, char-grilled - she had a fine product, the entrecote with an OK béarnaise sauce, but I had a dreadful product, a carré d’agneau – but both of our potato dishes were pathetic: undercooked, soggy and tasteless. To add to the roller-coaster experience, our shared crème brulee was great, ditto the coffee. Oh, yah, that great looking bread was awful too. The bill = 75€. Should One Go? Why? Did you just get divorced, widowed, abandoned and sleep on a couch in your La Defense office? OK. I understand

My local Monoprix but it was also at Galeries Lafayette; same big bottle.

Someone French correct me if I'm wrong, but I think most March closings are d/t school breaks not any tradition. I don't think I've ever starved in March. If it says closed "x" in March, telephone.

The Week of September 15th, 2008 Monday, in Le Fooding Julia Sammut wrote of Les Bacchanales in Vence. Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to La Table d’Eugene, coordinates given elsewhere, where he liked the seafood gratin, grilled squid and strawberries but not the dry cote de cochon and his partner in reviewing, Philippe Toinard had a less successful meal giving only 2/5 dots to Cul de Poule, coordinates also given elsewhere, which was noisy and where he commented on the banality of the salmon carpaccio, andouille or cold meats and warm cod. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope awarded two hearts to l'Assiette, 181, rue du Château in the 14th, 01 43 22 64 86, lunch menu 25 €, evening menu 50 €, a la carte: 25-40 €, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, now under the command of David Rathegber, who serves up insipid escargots, quenelles with a non-ponderous Nantua sauce and tuna belly with spinach as well as Le Dos de la Baleine, 40, rue des Blancs-Manteaux in the 4th, 01 42 72 38 98, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a lunch menu for 16.50 € and dinner running one 40-50 € serving fresh cuisine such as a ceviche of shrimp, mushroom soup with peanuts, filet with five flavors and “ultrabio” wines. One heart each went to l'Ardoise Gourmande, 12, rue de Belzunce in the 10th, 01 48 78 40 03, lunch menu at 22 € and a la carte 30-55 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday dinner and serving pork, boudin noir and creme brulee and Crep Story, 23, rue Rambuteau in the 4th, 01 42 77 05 06, closed Sundays with a lunch formula = 12.90 € and a la carte 20 € for salads, crepes and cakes. A busted heart went to La Paiva, 25 ave des Champs Elysees in the 8th, 01 73 54.77 00, open 7/7, located in a superb hotel particulier serving 4 bling food for 50-70 €. Wednesday in the “Dossier” Colette Monsat et al covered Sugary treats at the Plaza Athenee, Jean Paul Hevin, Chez Jean, Palace Elysee, l’Arpege, Pierre Herme, Café de la Paix, Hotel Meridien Montparnasse/restaurant Justine, Angelina, Laduree, Lenotre, Dalloyau, Fauchon, Pain de Sucre, Ble Sucre + des Gateaux et du Pain. Last Wednesday, also, there was a nice Dossier in Figaroscope on the Martyrs/Trudaine area that mentioned Spring, Sobane, Rose Bakery, Hotel Amour, Fontaine Fiacre, Hotaru, La Pizzetta, La Bocata, Cantina clandestine, Cesar + Wally le Saharian and Francois Simon singled out the Brazilian Gabriela as a place one should go to. Wednesday, Richard Hesse on Paris Update wrote about A la Chataigne, coordinates already given, where he recommends you go after he had a meal described as an “honest take on an excellent regional cuisine” with an “inveterate food blogger.” Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote two articles in Le Monde – one on preparing langoustines, the other wine making in Provence. Saturday in Le Figaro Francois Simon talked about Cyril Lignac {of "Oui Chef" TV fame} who has also {in addition to the Quinzieme Cuisine Attitude} taken over Chardenoux, in the 11th, where despite his not yet ranking as a great chef, he serves up OK {Paul Bert area type} food on a 18 € formula and charges 20 € for cod and 9 € for dessert. The article also speaks well of Thierry Burlot’s take-over of Zebra Square but only makes passing reference to Benoit Rathgeber at l’Assiette, Eric Briffard at the Cinq and La Paiva. Next door, Alexandra Michot wrote a {very thoughtful} article on "What will replace tuna?" suggesting sushi of pollack or a tartare of oysters. She mentions that Auchan and Casino have stopped selling tuna, Moshi Moshi sushi stores in the UK have replaced it with local coalfish/black cod or mullet, Prince Albert of Monaco has asked it not be served there and certain chefs such as Romain Corbiere at the Relais du Parc agree but some, such as Benoit Delbasserue of La Mare O poissons in Ouistreham refuse to. The author also suggests replacing it with mackerel, raised shellfish, Pacific salmon, Gascony Bay sardines and whiting. {One strange omission : she never mentions that the fishermen of New Zealand halted its depletion of its waters of fish by agreeing themselves to stop over-fishing some species.} Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote of the Maison de Sophie Dudemaine near Deauville and John Talbott wrote an article whose title was published as “Reservations needed?” Sunday, in the JDD, Astrid de T’Serclaes interviewed Maki Maruyama (Japanese tea specialist; who directs Jugetsudo in the 6th). {While it is not my practice to cover “foreign” restos, her choices were interesting to pass on}. Best take-out sushi = Naoki; best Chinese(he)/Japanese(she) resto = Ebis; best Japanese = Kai; best tea pavillion at the Maison de la Culture du Japon; best patisseries – Aoki + Toraya; best epicerie = Kioko. Rosa Jackson, in her Paris Bites, in Paris Notes, now only on line, reviewed Itineraires and continues to like Sylvan Sendra’s taking risks, although not all are successful. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Thank you Pti, that's very useful; we had it with the chicken and I loved it; not mustard but a genuinely diferent condiment (for me.)

Like apercubes, which somehow escaped my eagle-eyes for 55 years, I've never (knowingly) had Savora. My poor, long but acutely suffering French-born French teacher (what does one do with a highly motivated but impossibly challenged student?) asked me to bring her back some, so I thought I'd best taste it first - so that like the great Kings's tasters, I, not my patient, funny and wonderful professor would perish. We are having Maistre Mathieu's best chicken tonight; may/should/can I serve it with the bird? And either if so or not - with what else?

Spring is a bit of a walk but booked now thru the end of the year save for cancellations. There was a nice Dossier in Figaroscope last week on the Martyrs/Trudaine area, a bit East of the Pl de Clichy that also mentioned the relatively new and super Korean place Sobane. Also, the new Cul de Poule is kinda fun too. A bit of a hike is Le Cafe qui Parle that Laidback has written about and closer to the Place on the rue Cavallotti are two places Bouclard + Perroquet Vert I've been to many times but disappointed on my last visits. My bus went by Wepler two weeks ago and it looked under construction as was the Table d'Anvers.

Yes - back in Aug-Sept 07 the team from Chamarre moved to:Le Moulin de la Galette, 83, rue Lepic in the 18th and I had a 2.3 meal.

From The Old Foodie: “You require a male hare, with red fur, killed if possible in mountainous country, of fine French descent (characterised by the light nervous elegance of head and limbs) weighing from 5 to 6 pounds, that is to say older than a leveret but still adolescent. The important thing is that the hare should have been cleanly killed and so not have lost a drop of blood. The other ingredients are: 2-3 tablespoons goose fat, ¼ lb fat bacon rashers, ¼ lb bacon in one piece, 6 oz. of good wine vinegar, two bottles of Macon or Médoc (not less than two years old), 20 cloves of garlic, 40 cloves of shallot, and the usual carrot, onion stuck with a clove, and bouquet garni. And don’t forget the carefully saved blood of the hare, which you may mix with 2 or 3 small glasses of cognac if you so desire." My French friends will kill me - but for me it is a mature hare plus lots of blood and fat, which is either headspinningly great or headspinningly headspinning.

Baltimore Sun food critic Elizabeth Large published an article called “Psyching out diners:….” in which she said that: “…. I read about research published by Cornell University suggesting that customers spend more when the dollar sign is dropped from prices on the menu.” Somebody at the new Aloha Sushi restaurant on Charles Street must have been impressed because while it has prices on all the food items, every drink, including beer and wine, is priceless, so to speak, not only the dollar sign is missing, the numbers are too. (When I asked why, they said, oh no one on this block gives prices, which is simply inaccurate.) But that’s not all that is off-putting at this new place: the food is, to put it gently, not up to par. The sashimi, whether colored like tuna, salmon or mackerel, all tasted the same; the edaname had no character or salt; the tonkatsu was thin, over-cooked and reheated (a double whammy) and tasteless; even the rice was bad. The miso soup was fine, the female server terrific, the shaved ginger had punch and Colette finished her sushi. Oh and actually, the inexpensive Corsican pinot noir, bottled in California (Echelon) was great. Our bill $76.11 without tip. Go back? Aloha.

Corsica was the subject on a NYT article August 31st by Seth Sherwood that mentioned: Octopussy in Calvi U San Teofalu in Corte Le Voilier in Bonifacio Le Troubadour in Porto Vecchio.

August 31's NYT had a 36 Hour article on Biarritz by Kabir Chibber that mentioned l'Instant, Le Surfing + Chez Philippe as well as gelato from La Passion des Fruits, a gateau basque from Loubere, drinks at Cote Vestiaire + Le Carre Coast and ham from Didier Carrere's stall and cheese from Mille et Un Fromages.

The Week of September 8th, 2008 Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Les Banquettes, coordinates given elsewhere, where he liked the rabbit terrine, mesclun, beef with potatoes and crème brulee; while his compatriot, Philippe Toinard had a less successful trip giving only 2/5 dots to l’Ardoise Gourmande, coordinates also given elsewhere, where he commented on the beef with shallots and a puree, boudin noir with pear, scallops (in August!), sausage, echine and veal chop and panacotta that was too liquidy. Tuesday Roland Zemour in Le Fooding wrote of Rosa Bonheur {19th century woman painter), Avenue de la Cascade (eg in the Buttes Chaumont) in the 19th, 01 42 00 00 45, closed for Monday lunch only, (but closing in November until Spring for renovations) serving snacks like Serrano, Jabugo, chorizo, sausages, cheeses, sardines, pâtés, salads, etc for 20 E as well as bio wines (3 a glass, 18 E a bottle). Tuesday, Francois Simon on his blog termed as authentic Memere Paulette, 3, Rue Paul Lelong, in the 2nd, 01 40 26 12 36, running one about 30 E for meat or andouillette, boar rillette or stuffed tomatoes. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave three places two hearts; La Table d'Eugène, 18, rue Eugène Sue in the 18th, 01 42 55 61 64, lunch menu 10.5-12.5, dinner menu 21-27, a la carte 25-30 €, closed Sundays and Mondays, where the exBristol chef serves crusty-runny risotto, foie gras raviolis, rice pudding and home-made jam; La Banquette, 3, rue de Prague in the 12th, 01 43 47 39 47, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday night and Mondays, lunch menu 16, evening menu 24-30, a la carte 8-18 € serving in the old Petit Porcheron space, piment d'Espelette, beef from Salers, pommes rattes and crème brûlée au thym; Cul de poule, 53, rue des Martyrs in the 9th, 01 53 16 13 07, menus 20-25, a la carte 35 €, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving Basque charcuterie, a cote de cochon, citron tart and too dry chocolate éclair. There were also two one hearts: Le Boudoir, 25, rue du Colisée in the 8th, 01 43 59 25 29, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, menus at 21 and 27, a la carte about 40-60 €, serving grilled sole, a côte of veal with girolles and chocolate cake and the Family Affair, 33, rue Beaurepaire in the 10th, 01 40 18 49 79, lunch menu 31.50, a la carte 25-30 €, open 7/7, the third in this chain of “world food” places serving pasta from all over as well as a Spanish salad (beans, Serrano ham….), pistoleros mexicanos (with chorizo) and a cold pistachio soufflé. Wednesday, Richard Hesse on Paris Update wrote about Hotaru. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote two articles in Le Monde – one concerning chili con carne at Le Baratin; the other an elegy, I kid thee not, about potatoes, their UN sanctification {my word} and the 5th Congrès Potato Europe 2008, September 10-11 in Villers-Saint-Christophe (Aisne) that deals with their origins, usages and beneficial aspects. Thursday, Patrick Jegu in the l’Express of September 4th, reviewed le Cantine de Troquet, coordinates already given and François-Régis Gaudry, reviewed Gen. C’s Richard Toix’s restaurant in Saint Benoit. Saturday in Le Figaro Francois Simon dined with Werner Küchler of the Relais Plaza at McDo’s and with Gauthier Pajona wrote up 14 restaurants in Burgundy although it’s entitled 13 places. In the weekend FT, Nicholas Lander wrote up two seafood places in Alsace Restaurant JY’s + Aux Armes de France. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp surveyed Quoi de Neuf in Paris and John Talbott published “To tell or not to tell; that is the question?” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

As Mr. Rogers said "Welcome to my neighborhood." Not bad eh? The only things you didn't mention were the two or three great wine shops and Quatrehomme's cheeses.I would only add that after 3 years I've found that Le Tяuc is only good for the three-rib lamb and OJ was quite disappointing on my one visit.

Buccarest and the monastery country (our home base will be Gura Humorului).

This is a wonderful question in the year 2008; compared to 1968. I'm sure I and our members will have many thoughts, historical memories and opinions. I'll be most interested in how folks think we have gone from Vincent La Chapelle, François Marin and Menon through Gault-Millau to Choukroun, Aizpitarte, Barbot and Ledeuil. Thanks johung.

We should add that they also list: Old school wine bars: Au Sauvignon Au Vin des Rues La Cloche des Halles Le Rubis Pioneering wine bars: Le Garde Robe Le Verre Vole Les Papilles l'Estaminet d'Aromes & Cepages

Julien; your point is a good one. Wally's old designation after all was the Saharian, and while their meat (mechoui say) is good, I don't like their dry couscous, it is indeed a different dish as you say. I might point out for folks who don't know the hill, that since he moved over it to the Paris side, he's got a boutique selling take out. And I agreed with Pti, Atlas was my favorite wet couscous and pastilla of pigeon place until I realized what I really liked was lots of zucchini and chicken soup and even more harissa and it's so easy to make (couscous pots are sold all over, at least in my inelegant area) I rarely eat it out any more. Agreed also about the butter, it elevates and changes the grain.

Host's note: I thought this subject was worthy of its own topic. Julot said: Robyn said: Pti replied:

Saturday’s Figaro had an article by Alexandra Michot entitled the "Rentrée of scholarly classes" about where to learn and meet and exercise. They include: Primo One: Guy Martin Bio ones: Michel Guérard l’École Ritz Escoffier A green one: Laurence at 01 53 16 10 81. Spices: Patrick du Cros in Aulas at 04 67 81 75 74. Verrines: The Pourcels at 04 67 79 07 68. Beginners: Lenôtre at 01 42 65 97 60 and 04 97 06 67 65. Fruits and veggies for kids Kids with Alain Cirelli Small plates Molecular cuisine Anne Cazor Special utensils: October 2nd A Stage-Sejour near the Loire at 05 49 02 82 77. Cook-dating Fred Chesneau at 01 40 29 46 04. Meetic Häagen-Dazs for a parent and kid at 01 44 61 67 98.

I'm afraid the passion for outside influences - Italian risotto, polenta, pasta, Spanish gaspacho, hams, Asian spices, raw fish, and on and on can be blamed on poor Madame Medici but over the past 15 years are omnipresent in at least Paris if not all France.

Francois Simon on his blog revealed that Thierry Burlot of Le Quinze + Crystal Room has taken over the renovated Zebra Square where one can snack for 9 E and eat for 60 E.

More, according to l'Internaute Mikula is now offering a 35 minute 2-course menu for 32 E and 3 courses for 38 E.