Brad Ballinger

My wife and I did something similar one year. While she went to White Castle, I built a fire and opened a bottle of 1985 Brane Cantenac. We had our mature, mellow Bordeaux wine with slyders. We both were on board, so it wasn't one of us going along for the sake of the other.

SeAAtle, Double-check on the smoking situation at these places. Blackbird, Avec, and North Pond I know are smoke free. So is Schwa. But Chicago has long been a smoker's town, so it wouldn't hurt to double check wherever you go.

I truly do not know, and the origin of large format bottle names (Burgundy/Champagne or Bordeaux) began so long ago that the exact reasons behind the names are fuzzy. Call it marketing attention-grabbing more than anything else I suppose. But I did come across this write up that provides some background information, including:

I think Crushpad 2.0 might be an update.

Full article here.

Actually, to be overly technical (and overly geeky), it's an Imperial. Bordeaux large format bottles and Burgundy/Champagne large format bottles have different names. Six liters is a Methuselah for Burgundy or Champagne, but an Imperial for Bordeaux.

A bit more information on this for those not in the know. Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, who write the wine column for The Wall Street Journal, started "Open That Bottle Night" seven years ago. It takes place the last Saturday of February. You are supposed to open that bottle you've been saving, but never find an occasion worthy enough of said bottle. OTBN is, thus, the reason that's as good as any to open it. It would be a fun thing to do on this forum.

I inherited the following from my father (he passed away in 1982): Chinese Middle Eastern Latin American Provincial France Classic French Italy Quintet of Cuisines Germany African Japan American American Southern Style Vienna's Empire India Russian Spain British Isles Scandanavia Wines and Spirits What I am missing, however, is the supplemental book of recipes. So the only dishes I can attempt to make are the one for which the recipe is included in the regional book. And that's only about one-fifth of the total.

Jim, Yes, I believe it still exists. I didn't go into the detail for two reasons -- 1) it could just be too geeky; and 2) I don't think "A" or "B" are part of the labeling regs, but just separate categories of the Premier Grand Cru Classe classification (but perhaps I'm wrong about that). Ausone and Cheval Blanc are the only two "A" chateaux, and there are nine "B" producers (don't ask me all their names -- I only know of Figeac, La Gaffeliere, and Pavie off the top of my head).

The wine from St. Emilion have always been a strange breed in terms of labeling. Shunned in 1855, they didn't "classify" until 1954. The classification (unlike the wines of the Medoc, with the noted exception of Mouton Rothschild) can be re-evaluated every ten years. The last revision I'm aware of was in 1994 unless one has occurred recently. Whereas the Medoc has five levels of growths, St. Emilion has three levels of "grand cru." They are Premier Grand Cru Classe (e.g., Ausone, Figeac), Grand Cru Classe, and Grand Cru. This last classification has about 200 wines in it. But that can change year in and year out because chateaux that are in the Grand Cru classification must re-apply every year to maintain that status. I don't know if the other classifications have such a requirement (although, as I mentioned, the whole list from top to bottom can be re-evaluated every ten years). With so many wines in the Grand Cru classification, I don't doubt that there is going to be a huge variation in quality.

2001 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, Pfalz. This wine is still on the youngish side. It has a color that is a bit more golden than most kabinetten wines, and a depth that coincides with the color. The aromas are heavy on the diesel, sulfur, mineral side suggesting the wine needs a bit of air to allow some of the honeyed citrus and floral aromas to share the stage. Taking a sip, one gets a mouthful of flavors ranging from lemon to golden delicious apples wrapped around a slate/rocky mineral core. There isn't much sweetness to the wine, and what is present is more honey than sugar. There's a fair amount of acid, which makes the wine a great food partner. But it's not overwhelmingly acidic or tart. There is wonderful balance of fruit, mineral, acid, and sweetness. The world needs more wines like this one. 1996 Huet "Le Haut Lieu" Vouvray Sec. I remember having this wine a couple of times much closer to the release date than to today's date, and the wine was juicy, saliva-producing, brightly acidic, and an explosion inside the mouth. Several years later, the wine is still all that plus. There is some added resin/beeswax complexity to the still bright lemon and quince flavors. The nose is primarily mineral and closed yet. In the mouth, it packs an acidic punch with plenty of fruit and mineral. More of the resiny qualities come through on the finish. I don't think this wine is done developing yet. 1998 Barone Ricasoli Casalferro. This is an IGT wine made of primarily sangiovese with perhaps a modicum of merlot. It is aged in barrique for 18 months. This summer I had the 1997 Casalferro, which I greatly prefer to this 1998. However, I would guess the masses would give the nod to the 1998. Comparatively, the 1998 has a stronger ripened berry and oak profile. The 1997 was more austere and accented by a graphite minerality that is missing from the 1998. Perhaps the wine will reveal some more dimension with time. It was a pleasant enough wine, but nothing that would make me pick up the bottle to find out what I was drinking if I didn't already know.

There are so many stupid alcohol laws in the United States that still hearken back to our Puritan days, Prohibition, and the repeal of Prohibition. Some are state-enforced. Some are county-enforced. Some are municipality-enforced. In Minnesota, one cannot purchase wine over the interent. Wine can be purchased over the phone, or via fax machine, but not online. So for those who use a phone line to connect to the web, wine can be ordered over that same line as long as the line is being used for something other than the internet. In St. Paul, if one is to open up a store selling wine, beer, or spirits, the city will mail out post cards to all residents within 300 yards informing them that an off-sale liquor store might be opening. The post card informs citizens that they can file a complaint if they don't want the store. If one citizen files a complaint, a hearing is scheduled. Also, Minnesota used to have a quirky law on the books (that has since been removed) whereby an off-sale store could not be located within 600 feet of the University of Minnesota's St. Paul campus (no other campuses, just the St. Paul one). Finally, the owner of an off-sale establishment in Minnesota can sell foodstuffs (cheese, gorumet-ish type fare, etc.) as long as there is a separate entrance to the food section, and food and alcohol purchases must be made separately in their own space. Some states, counties, or municiplaities do not allow restaurant patrons to bring their own wine. Some don't allow customers to take an unfinished bottle of wine home.

All good points. Cotes-du-Rhone and Pinot Noir often share billing as versatile wines with a variety of dishes. I'd also through in a cru Beaujolais from a producer like Brun or Michaud who isn't interested in how many truckloads they can ship. Leaving France, a couple of Italian wines come to mind. Dolcetto is a terrific food partner, and the 2004s out now are very nice. And, if I was your host, I'd be tempted to open that Dolcetto no matter what I had planned on serving. Also, Barbera is another versatile food wine.

Last night, I stopped in at a local wine bar that also has a good beer list. I ordered a bottle of Chimay White Label, and was shocked that it came in a Chimay glass. I asked the bartender how many other beers had their own glassware. He listed off Belgian producers only. I also remember a business trip to the Netherlands and Belgium a little over a year ago. Everytime I ordered beer, it was served with a glass that featured the name of the beer. I know there's a school of thought that certain beers (like certain wines) are best when served in certain glassware. But in England, where everything comes in the same-shaped pint glass, the name of the beer one orders appears on the glass. In addition to best showing off the beer, I'm sure it helps the server remember what customers are drinking. I wish we saw more of this -- in the United States (especially with microbrews) and elsewhere.

I like this one a lot. I'm surprised "Dinner Rush" hasn't been mentioned.

Bandol Rouge.

I'd leave the venison terrine where it is. But I'd put the prawns in front of the chicken. Then I'd do the following. For the first three courses, I'd serve the NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose. The bottle screams "Valentine's Day," plus it has bubbles, and it's pink. For the prawns, I'd go with a lush riesling, such as Josmeyer's "The Dragon." Alternate choices would be a Roero Arneis from Giacosa or a Falanghina from Taburno. All will have a bit of floral and mineral, with good fruit. I'd use the chicken leg as a transition to finish the white and start on the red. Then continue the red into the lamb. For the red, I recommend Calon Segur, a Bordeaux wine with a heart on the label. I like Bordeaux with lamb anyway, and the heart is a good Valentine's Day touch.

No wood? La Chablisienne? Jim, do you know if it is just this cuvee or signs of a trend from this producer?

In this thread, further down the page, eG member Pontormo asked for input into the discussion taking place on the Italian Forum as members tour through the regions of the country. The thread got so big that they've since decided to have a thread devoted to each region. Therefore, the link Pontormo provided will bring those who click on it only to the discussion of Piemonte and Val d'Aosta. A new region will be added each month. For February, the choice is Lombardy. The new thread is The Cooking and Cuisine of Lombardia. Lombardy is primarily known for Franciacorta sparkling wines, Valtellina Superiore, and Sfursat. I've already made very brief comments on those DOCG wines. I'm hoping others can elaborate or provide input on the lesser-known DOC or IGT wines.

Hello, Pontormo posted a thread in the Wine Forum inviting people who visit that forum frequently to provide wine input (solicited or unsolicited) for each region as this group undertakes its tour of Italy. The notice came as the Piemonte and Val d'Aosta thread was wrapping up. Perhaps we can jump in on the Lombardia thread. There's more to Lombardia than Lambrusco. I'm including a link (click here) to an overview of Lombardia wines at ItalianMade.com. The page lists all the DOCG, DOC, and IGT wines, each with its own link to a separate page that provides information on grape varieties, styles of wine, and geography. Living in the United States, and in the Midwest, the wines I typically see from Lombardia are the Franciacorta metodo classico sparkling wines and a handful of Valtellina Superiore wines. Sfursat wines are imported into the U.S., but they are hard to come by. For the sparkling wines of Franciacorta, the producer whose wines I run across more often than not is Bellavista. However, those wines don't do a lot for me. I much prefer the wines from Cavalleri, particularly the "Saten." Valtellina has, on occasion, been referred to as a poorer man's Barolo. The grape is nebbiolo, but in Lombardia it goes by the name of chiavennasca. The wines, if the Swiss haven't carted them all away, can be had at one-third to one-half the price of Barolo or Barberesco. For those who read Italian, a lot more can be found at Consorzio Vin Valtellina. I've enjoyed the Valtellina Superiore wines from Aldo Rainoldi. Sfursat (or Sforzato) is a dry red wine made from chiavennasca in the same way Amarone della Valpolicella transforms corvina. But I've not had any personal experience with Sfursat wines, so I'll have to stop there. Perhaps some others who come to this thread by way of the Wine Forum can add more input.

I'll also add this. If you are visiting in the summer, don't base out of any town on the Amalfi Coast. Traffic and parking will be atrocious. If you'll be visiting off-season, the Amalfi Coast will be all yours -- although your day trips will be longer to destinations further inland. I based out of Ravello for a week in November, and had a wonderful and wonderfully easy time of it.

Michael, Of course the recommendations will depend on which wine areas or which producers you wish to visit. The post you linked references Puglia, but not Campania. Wine production in Campania takes place all over -- near Napoli, on the Costa Amalfitana, near Avellino, near Atripalda, on Ischia, near Paestum. One recommendation I have for you (if you are more interested in DOC areas than specific producers) is to visit Italian Made and look for DOC areas in Campania. Then decide. Regardless of where you have your base, plan for the drives to take longer than you would guess. And don't drive in Napoli.

1998 Chateau de la Gardine Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Served with oxtail stew. There was a pronounced candied fruit component that dominated the nose initially. It became more subdued over time, but never fully retreated. With aeration and swirling, there were secondary aromas of olive, roasted game, and some peppery spice. A tiny bit floral. In the mouth, the wine was a bit closed (I pulled the cork and poured without any aeration ahead of time). But the bottle was open three hours, and toward the end, the wine had opened up and the tannins were yielding a bit. It wasn't as fruity tasting as the candied nose would lead one to believe. Plenty of earth, meat, spice, etc, shone through. I would definitely give this a couple hours in the decanter next time.

Yes, but I don't believe in every vintage.

February Calendar events: February 1 - Sonoma Wine Affair, Vancouver February 1 - Paso Robles Grand Wine Tasting Tour, Atlanta February 6 - Moet Hennessy Portfolio Tasting, Miami February 7 - Moet Hennessy Portfolio Tasting, New York City February 8 - Moet Hennessy Portfolio Tasting, Chicago February 9 - First Growths Wine Dinner, Vancouver February 16 - Wines and Cuisine of Bordeaux, Vancouver February 20 and 27 - Wine Appreciation for Beginners, Plainfield, New Jersey February 24-26 - Twin Cities Food and Wine Experience, Minneapolis February 27 - March 5 - Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Vancouver