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Brad Ballinger

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by Brad Ballinger

  1. If I thought I didn’t have much to contribute regarding the wines of Liguria, then I’m fooling myself thinking I have anything to contribute regarding the wines of Sardinia. But I’ll give it a shot, anyway. One would think, given multiple demands on the limited amount of land, that island countries or territories would have limited wine production. That’s not necessarily the case. If one examined the acreage devoted to grape growing for the world’s most renowned wine regions, one might be surprised at how small they actually are. Conversely, one might be surprised to learn that Sardinia has 19 DOC wines, 16 IGT wines (the most IGT wines of any region in Italy) and 1 DOCG wine. Also, surprisingly perhaps, the number of vineyards on Sardinia has decreased dramatically in recent years as the island has decided to focus on quality rather than quantity. The highest quality wine (if you go solely by the DOCG designation) is Vermentino di Gallura, a dry white wine made from vermentino grapes grown on Sardinia’s northern tip. Vermentino produces fragrant wines (and “fragrant” might be seen by some to be a euphemism for odorous when it comes to some vermetino wines). The vermentino wines from Sardinia are fuller-bodied and not quite as acidic as those from Liguria. Moscato is widely planted, producing sweet still and sparkling wines. In fact, there’s a Moscato di Sardegna DOC, which applies to the entire island, in addition to two other DOCs for Moscato. Likewise, there is plenty of malvasia to be found. But the most popular white grape on Sardinia is nuragus, which makes Nuragus di Cagliari DOC wines. Cagliari refers to almost the entire southern half of Sardinia. The wines are somewhat nondescript – easy quaffing wines you don’t have to think about that offer just enough crispness and nothing distracting in their flavor profile. But the oddest duck among the white wines of Sardinia (and perhaps also including red wines) are the Vernaccia di Oristano DOC wines made from vernaccia grapes grown along the western coast of the island. The wines are aged for a minimum of 29 months in wood and the riserva wines are aged for 48 months. They also come in liquoroso (fortified) versions, but even the normale versions smell and taste sherry-like. The non-fortified versions are also more popular and interesting. Many of the red wines are made from cannonau (related to grenache), with some made from carignano and some from monica. As is the case with many island nations, and many parts of Italy, both dry and sweet versions are made. But the dry ones are more popular and easier to find. If you want to dry something unique among the red wines of Sardinia, if you can find it, seek out a sweet red Giro di Cagliari DOC wine. There are liquoroso and non-liquoroso versions, but the liquorosi have the better reputation. That’s the discourse based on some research. My experience, on the other hand, is rather limited. I have had the Vernaccia di Oristano wines on a number of occasions and can comment that the enjoyment of them is an acquired taste and one has to be in the right frame of mind. I’ve also had Vermentino di Gallura wines that I’ve enjoyed quite a bit. I’ve had cannonau wines that I’ve also enjoyed. Arguably, the most widely exported producer of Sardinian wines is Argiolas. You can find the popular and inexpensive Costera (made from cannonau) and Perdera (made from monica) with ease, which I prefer to the more expensive and modern-tasting Turriga.
  2. Bring both wines, and let us know which worked better. But don't put too much pressure on yourself. Both asparagus and shrimp are difficult food partners when it comes to wine.
  3. Brad Ballinger

    2004 Sea Smoke

    In the "for what it's worth" and "my two cents" categories, I've had The Southing one time (2002 vintage). I can think of plenty bottles of Burgundy I'd rather spend $50 on. And I can think of other Calfornia or Oregon Pinot Noir wines I'd prefer that I can walk into my retailer and pay less than $50 for. The Ten is 100% new oak, so if that's your preferred style, you may like that. The Southing is 65% new oak. But. . . If youwant the wines for less than "market value," then the prices are fair. The Southing is being offered on Wine Commune for $71 by some seller who wants to captitalize on the limited availability. Also, if you care what James Laube of Wine Spectator had to say:
  4. The Black and White is indeed a wonderful place. Glad you got to experience it. Sorry that Salsa a la Salsa didn't do it for you. Their mole and chile rellenos are really top notch, but I don't know what you ordered.
  5. 1970, if it has been stored properly should be singing. I'm assuming you plan to drink it shortly upon acquisition. I have a bottle of the 1988 myself, that I have yet to try. The interest thing about that one, for those who are marginally interested in point scores, is that Wine Spectator gave it 100 points, while Parker gave it 89, I believe. I also believe that Spectator lowered its score upon a subsequent tasting a few years later.
  6. Brad Ballinger

    1995 Bordeaux

    Thanks for the note on the Ducru. I have six of them that I haven't touched. I may need to find occasion to check in on one of them.
  7. FWIW, I've read plenty of recent (within the last couple of years) tasting notes from people I trust on 95 Cal Cabs that are in line with your experience with the 95 Fay.
  8. With the advent of summer, I've happily dived into sever glasses of Bell's Oberon Ale, easily my favorite wheat ale. And there's a place here that has it on tap, so that's bonus. Additionally, there is a locally produced product (if this Minnesota boy can call a Western Wisconsin product local) from Rush River Brewing Company in Maiden Rock, Wisconsin. I've recently enjoyed the BubbleJack IPA and the Unforgiven Amber. Currently their product is only distributed in kegs, and there's a local place (same one where I had the Oberon) that has Rush River on tap. Finally, I've recently hit upon the two products of Surly Brewing Company, a Brooklyn Center (Minneapolis suburb), Minnesota, company. I say two products because that is all they have. The Bender is sort of a porter, and the Furious is one hell of a hoppy brew (and I love hoppy). Well, that's the latest and greatest beer quaffs for now...
  9. I'll comment on Lyle's. Just drink there. Eat elsewhere. I know that Stephen recommended the origianl Punch (in my 'hood, actually), but if you got to Nye's for a drink (and I can recommend eating there, too), I believe a Punch has opened or is opening one to two blocks away.
  10. Max mention a newsgroup dating back to 1989. I confess to not being enough of a techie to know how that differs from a forum of this type. But I know of some people who participated in a discussion on Prodigy in the early 90s (which they call the Prodigy board) that pre-dated many others.
  11. Geez. The current bid (at the time of this reply) is $9.99. But I'm think there has got to be a minimum on it since it's being sold by what appears to be a retailer.
  12. My wife and I were married in 1992, and our 14th anniversary was last night. The idea of opening a wine from 1992 started with our 10th when we went out with another couple and had bubbles, a white, a red, and a dessert wine all from 1992. It was never a planned thing, but just something that sort of happened. If it was planned I'd have more 1992 wines (although not the best vintage worldwide). As it stands, I'm now down to three more 92 Cal Cabs. 1992 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars "SLV" Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. Overall, this is a wine that was drunk at about the right time, but I could see it holding for a couple more years before going into decline. The bright acidity is keeping it fresh and alive yet. Nose of cedar, tobacco, mint, black cherry. I don't have a comment on color. I brought it to a restaurant and the lighting at our table was dim. Acidity on the attack offering what the server, who had a sip, called "zing." Well put. After 30 minutes, it opened up to offer some velvet to envelop the zing. Cherries, tobacco, a smoky quality. Tannins were softened. The finish was full without any bite. Last year's wine was the 92 Fay from this same producer. This SLV was in better shape.
  13. Brad Ballinger

    Cab Franc?

    One of the more memorable domesitc Cab Francs I've had was from Cooper Garrod (Santa Cruz Mountains). I also enjoyed one from Reverie (Napa Valley). One suggestion for starting out would be Jouget's Chinon Rose from the Loire. It's a Cab Franc rose wine.
  14. Brad Ballinger

    Pasta Shapes

    I believe spaghetti is the "default" pasta for carbonara, but I could be wrong. Bucatini is for amatriciana.
  15. Brad Ballinger

    Pasta Shapes

    Capellini, Bucatini, Oricchiette, Orzo.
  16. Thai takeout with wine-living friends the other night. . . 2004 St. Innocent Pinot Blanc, Freedom Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley. Huge thumbs up to this wine. 25% is fermented in oak, the rest in stainless steel. The pinot blanc grape can be very acidic, so some oak to tame it isn't tantamount to high treason. This wine showed tremendous balance. Nose shows flroal, spice, lemons, touch of smoke. In the mouth there is richness of fruit pierced with a laser beam of acidity. It is wonderfully clean. It faired better with the lighter Thai dishes and had trouble battling the red curry. This would also be great on its own. 2002 Marcel Deiss Grasberg, Alsace. This wine is mostly riesling with some pinot gris and (I believe) gewurztraminer. The nose is all diesel-ish riesling. My preference for next time will be to have this wine sit in decanter for a period. However, doing so for too long, I'm afraid, might cause this wine to lose its edge -- and this particular vintage's version doesn't have that much edge to lose. These Deiss wines are trending toward fuller body, and are losing some of the acid-driven structure of earlier vintages. In my opinion. There is a rich minerality to add complexity to the flavor profile. But the textural elements seem to be less a part of the picture than they should be.
  17. The rest of that quip goes "And Americans drink their wines at the right time because they don't know any better." All of this boils down to one major factor in wine appreciation and consumption -- preference. A few have touched upon it. The answer to the question as to whether or not it's best to decant and aerate a wine is to ask how the individual prefers his or her wine.
  18. Too much politics involved now. The "lore" and aftermath of the 1976 tasting has transcended anyone's expectations aroung the original event one hundredfold. I suspect there won't be one for the same reason Parker won't do a retasting of wines under public scrutiny -- nothing to win and everything to lose.
  19. Richard, Thats a fizzy red (not rose) wine produced in Piedmont made from the brachetto grape. It is also sweet. Many people like enjoying the wine with things chocolate. If I'm going to have it with chocolate (which is a big if since I prefer coffee with chocolate), I'll seek out a still version of brachetto. Harder to find, yes, but more enjoyable for me. As far as sparkling brachetto, I like Malvira's Birbet more than Banfi's Rosa Regale.
  20. This post about the wines of Liguria will likely be much shorter than other posts of mine about wine from the other regions (thus far). When people think of Liguria, they think of the Cinque Terre. And there is a DOC by the name of "Cinque Terre" that is one of the more well-know white wines outside the region and the country. It is said that the vineyards in those tiny terraces so close to the Mediterranean actually catch some sea spray giving the grapes and the wine a bit of a taste of the sea. Most of the wine stays in the region, being too delicate to travel successfully, but some of it is making it out because people recognize the name Cinque Terre, and recognition is part of the marketing and selling game. Personally, the wines don't do a lot for me. My favorite whites from Liguria, though, are from the Golfo del Tigullio DOC, particulary wines made from the grape bianchetta genovese. The wines are very dry, have a mineral component, and slight apple-peach flavors. If you are getting zucchini blossoms in your area, this wine is a must with those. Although known more for whites, the oldest DOC in Liguria is for the red wines of Rossese di Dolceacqua from grapes grown near the border with France. Production is small. The wine isn't "sweet water," but is named as such because it is made in the village of the same name. The grape is rossese, which generally produces lighter-styled wines. Many of the DOCs in the area will have a passito wine, most of which are not terribly sweet. The exception is the Cinque Terre Sciacchetra, which produces a sweet white wine. I've never had it, so I can't say more than it exists.
  21. 112 Eatery - YES!!! Easier for a smaller work group than a larger one. 20.21 - Haven't been.
  22. Depending on how many people from your company... St. Paul downtown -- A Rebours. French bistro fare done quite well. But they also have bar seating that you can do on your own. St. Paul downtown -- Margaux. Bistro-esque. This is only for your solo night. St. Paul neighborhood -- Heartland. Regional eclectic. Only doable for company if the group is no larger than eight. There is also a wine bar that serve good food. Minneapolis downtown -- Vincent. French country. The people who are aghast at its being slighted in recent pubs have a reason to grouse. Also have good bar fare. If your co-workers need something more "mainstream," then Kincaid's or St. Paul Grille in downtown St. Paul.
  23. 2003 Arnaldo Caprai "Poggio Belvedere" Umbria IGT. 80% sangiovese, 20% ciliegiolo. Fermentation and aging in stainless steel (some additional aging in bottle). Caprai is primarily known for Monefalco DCO and Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG wines. Those who are waiting for the tannins in the Sagrantino to mellow (which seems like it can take forever) will want to stock up on the Poggio Belvedere to enjoy during the wait. This wine does a very nice job of giving off both fresh berries and spice at the same time with secondary floral tones. There's a nice level of acidity to keep everything bright. It may be a tiny bit hollow in the midpalate, but I think it needs a bit of air to fully flesh out. 2004 Luciano Landi Lacrima di Morro d'Alba. Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is both the DOC and the grape variety. I don't write it very often, but I can't see myself every having this wine cross my lips again. I've enjoyed wines from this DOC in the past, but this was my first experience with this producer. While there was a characteristic floral component to the those, those flowers were caked with dirt that was full of nettles. The wine just smelled dirty. It didn't taste much better. Thin, nettle-like, unripe. I even tried to ask what would anyone who is not me like about this wine, but came up empty. Makes me wonder how an importer, distributor, and retailer could all agree to go ahead and put the wine on a shelf.
  24. Holding court for 100 people where alcohol is involved will be challenging. You can do it, but you will need careful and precise coordination to fill everyone's glass at roughly the same time and then lead them in education about what they are drinking. If they are not sitting down, forget it altogether. Much of getting good advice to you here will depend on what type of event you and your friend envision.
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