marlena spieler

BACK TO THE EXCELLENT ADVENTURE: Yes, please, loufood, tell us all the little tricks you can steal away from the Great Chefs of Paris! and in a nutshell what is the secret of making the foam stuff. And i'm very jealous of ted and matts doing the column, cause i had had a similar idea percolating (dare i say languishing) in a back file for what was becoming years......alas, if i write it now, ain't too original any more! But i've long been a fan of stuff like powders: orange powder, tomato powder and porcini powder are three that I adore sprinkling around the border of plates. It adds a shot of flavour but isn't too weird and hard to produce, whereas the nitrogen cylinder stuff, man, i don't think that many home kitchens are going to be experimenting with that. I like the magic stuff going on in these experimental kitchens, but i see them in this light: they are little fripperies, items of stimulation, things that will enrich but not replace our evolving cuisine. Like with nouvelle cuisine, remnants of this molecular gastronomy will linger on and interweave with real food and real cuisine. and yet, and yet, it is such a different way of looking at food. deconstructing rather than constructing. things that look like dessert and turn out to be main course, and vice versa. olives dipped in honey for dessert along a sweet tomato pate with basil syrup for instance. (nice but i needed a chocolate fix afterward). i think the fact that adria is opening a more traditional place as well as el bulli says it all. and when he eats out himself, what does he eat? traditional catalan food. but its all fun, fun, fun. except when it gets weird weird weird.

this is certainly true and i should have made that point. it's just that there are so many ways of writing about food these days that recipe writing is only one of them. and maybe even a fairly minor one (speaking as someone who does it himself). i'm perfectly happy with good writers who aren't great cooks and so they collect great recipes from interesting (and hopefully unusual) sources. as long as they're attributed as such. Oh, yes, Russ, if someone is a good writer, and also has the good taste to know how to choose other peoples good recipes for publication...... then that is good good good. sometimes the best. though i feel constructing good recipes shouldn't be seen as the minor part of food writing it is religated to these days. a good well contructed recipe can be magic for the reader who picks the recipe up, takes it to the kitchen, and voila: gets this wonderful thing to eat and feed those he/she loves.

Vendome is delightful, and only a 40 minute tgv ride from paris (about 3 hours by regular train or car). there is a charming market (i forget which day) and the whole area is dotted with gardens and chateaux, off the beaten path. le loir as opposed to la loire, is a quiet undiscovered part of the area, and this is the part i'd head towards. i forgot when you said you were going there, but its getting to be a nice time of the year, so the garden, and also the flowers of vendome (balzac's home, also the home of the father of modern poetry i forget his name). in tours and also in other area around the place you can indulge in fouasse meals, usually located in ancient buildings, some are even located in caves, anyhow, a fouasse feast is a rabelaisian feast, a pile of hot litte pita like breads, baked in a wood oven, and served with various courses of rustic local foods: rillettes, goat cheese, butter, beans cooked with rillons, green salad, that sort of thing. it is a heavy hefty meal, and a great deal of fun! its also a wonderful area to bike ride in as its flat. troo is a little village of caves, built on a hill. the food in the area is mostly rustic rather than imaginative, and the raw ingredients are terrific. sometimes the portions are too huge. but the part i like the most, no make that love, is that the cheese course is not usually optional, but part of the menu. yum. marlena

But and this is a big but, if a food writer is writing about food and devising recipes, if they aren't fantastic cooks (as well as interesting writers) i don't think they should be writing. i've eaten at food writers houses, some of them legendary, and they may have been good writers, indeed some are really good, but the food: ech! i'm naming no names, but it was a bit of a shock. on the other hand, if one doesn't writer recipes, and doesn't write about food in a way that needs deep culinary understanding, then dining experience, food knowledge, and appreciation are far better skills. Marlena

actually, maybe now you can find an ITALIAN boyfriend? (I keep telling my husband that if her were Italian, he would verge on perfection. I also say it about French. But as it turns out he has a perfectly cute british accent. still, those italians....). fresh pasta is magic, though, and forgive me if i was a bit flippant in my earlier posting. in fact, i love pasta so much i've written several books about it. tonight i'm making manti, a turkish pasta, though i must confess that i purchased the ready made manti yesterday in london's hackney, a turkish neighbourhood. But i'll simmer them in broth and slather then with garlic yogurt and drizzle with hot chile oil, and they should be good. i hope. Homemade pasta, the rolled silky ribbons of eggy dough, or the chunky flour and water kind, are just so satisfying to create, and though dried pasta is always a treat, homemade is simply magic. as much for the act of making it, as for the final product. but seriously: when you look at your pantry and there is nothing there, a little flour, a couple of eggs, and a hunk of parmigiana.......and an hour later you're sitting down to a delicate pasta blanketted with fresh Parmigiana, oh, be still my heart. satisfying to know you can do it, and do it at the drop of a hat, (or should i say........whats italian for hat?) keep rolling those noodles, and enjoy! marlena

I loved lluna basque, though not every dish was successful. Here is a rundown of the dishes that shouldn't be missed, if they are on the menu. seared tuna in cabrales or roquefort cream crisp fried potatoes with vinegar and herbs, you won't believe these goodies! artichokes with sweetbreads artichokes with scallops pineapple gratin the tortilla, chicken stewy sort of dish, and the charcuterie plate were least favourites. the basque rose was delightful! really loved it, in any case. ask the waitstaff to ask the chef--a mere baby of a boy--to recommend some dishes for you! x marlena

Dear Mighty Quinn, Well done! Making pasta is sort of a practice thing, and it does take a long time that your mind is on something other than love life, on nothing other than pasta.... and when it turns out beautifully and silky and tender, you can remember my motto: while some say that pasta is a substitute for sex, I say that sex is a substitute for pasta. x Marlena

Mags' postings are so cohesive, so sensible, everything i have been wanting to say but instead just stand here gnashing my teeth and stuttering, trying to put my finger on what was bothering me, and also trying to figure out what to spit out first, word/thought wise. un grand merci, Marlena

I LOVE Adventures in Food (I think there are two volumes) , a collection of short stories about food and food situations, edited by richard sterling who also does many of the lonely planet foods of the world series. seriously good writing, seriously enticing prose, seriously interesting situations..... Marlena

good luck with your cervelle de canut, bleud'auvergne......... the raw ingredients you have in france to work with are so superb, the finished result should be delicious......i try to make it with French cheeses which i get here in britain easily, but they are never so delicious as they are freshly made..... and also, any bread that you get for toast will be a thousand times better than the bread we get here, although at least in london we can get the excellent pain levain made my the late lionel poilane of Paris, a dear friend of mine. cut into fingers, then toasted and spread with cervelle de canut.......yum. and sometimes i top it with sliced cucumber too. x marlena

I know, I know, that David Thompson's book accumulated accolades and awards, but I didn't find it enticing enough to ever cook from. I have it on my shelf, and a handsome hot pink colour it is, but I never ever open it. It is 'complete' but I don't feel passion or inspiration when I pick it up. So I wouldn't recommend looking for an equivilant re Indian cuisine. I echo the previous posting about starting out with a good overview such as Julie Sahni's savoring india, and then specializing in smaller books with more personal narrative, observation, and recipes. I really look forward to seeing monica's books, and the only reason they haven't passed my way before is because i live far away and haven't seen them in the shops. When i come to the us later this month, I shall dive into them immediately. having a few personal voices on any cuisine is a good step towards making the cuisine come alive. oh, and the pat chapman book i recommended might be very good for you because it walks you through an indian restaurant selection of dishes. good for cooking your way into and through the cuisine, and then for knowing your way through a menu when you eat out. cheers, marlena

Last time I was in Israel was several years ago when I was writing a felafel piece for Saveur mag. and inbetween it was coffee, and markets and pickles! I love sheinkin, love orna v' ella, wish I was on that el al plane right now with a group of food obsessed folks to feed them the good things that many outsiders do not know of.....the little foodie secrets..... Seriously, daniel and swisskaese, I'm serious about organizing a foodie focused press trip to Israel. Unfortunately, the When part of the project has too much to do with the political situation. But I"m waiting happily, and am ready to eat that felafel on ten minutes notice! Maybe the time will be soon.....I am hoping. x Marlena

Thanks, Bong! Marlena

Hop across here to India and we will show you the real stuff! Dear Epi, I am soooooo there. i'm heartbroken that its taken me so long and still, the closest i've gotten to India is 15 years living in London's Brick Lane. Where do you live? India is such a vast subcontinent that I don't know where to begin. But i think this year is the one i get myself over there....... Anyhow, after last years Diwali celebration in Britain when I was draped in a green silk sari, my husband said I looked lovely, but he didn't realize that with every step I was half pulling it off and constantly worried that I was going to unwrap myself completely. x Marlena

Yes, when the terms comprehensive and complete etc start coming up....well, things will always be missed.....the Indian subcontinent is so huge and vast with the regional cuisines and minority group cuisines, and it is so alive and fascinating.....however there are a number of really good, evocative books out there that teach/educate and seduce, in equal measure. I love reading my way through Indian bookbooks, learning about the spices and techniques, and regions, etc. Here are a few of my past faves. I loved the original Time life foods of the world book on India. And then there were lets see: Julie Sahni's book Savoring India is divine........for once the combination of both evocative writing and luscious regional recipes, as well as lush photography come together. camilla punjabi's 50 curries (and even though curry is an anglo term, the book is really indian, really authentic). I like the modern indian essence by atul kochhar which will be published in the uk in june. and also the modern cinnamon club book alluring. maddhur jaffrey had a book a number of years ago that was good, too: it was Flavours of India. Anything by Mridula Bajiakar works really well. The New Curry Bible by Pat Chapman is very British but really guides you through almost any Indian restaurant and demystifies each dish, with representative recipes. 1,000 indian recipes (foulsham) is totally untested and without any narration, but hidden in its pages are many authentic recipes and dishes, all of which need re-constructing but many of which are total treats. oh, and the modern veering on fusion, books: cinnamon club, namaste spice, etc, das sreedharan's new taste of india, anything by Sunil Vijayakar, beautifully photographed, colourful and enticing........ I'm always looking for new Indian cookbooks and dipping into the ones I have.... I find that sometimes when I"m just wishing for inspiration, I simply open one of these cookbooks and am carried away in a waft of spices and ideas........ Marlena

Monica, Monica, Monica! Thank you for welcoming me on (after I had just posted a slightly testy note previously). forgive me. I'm much happy now! And thrilled to be in this chutney forum, and in the India section full stop! Its such a great forum! So many wonderful flavours and smells and spices, isn't it wonderful how Indian subcontinent flavours are seducing us all! And the thing is this: its the sort of food that all i have to do is read about it and its irrisistible: before you know it i'm roasting and grinding spices, rolling kofta, thinking of the aromas and flavours and colours that will soon be mine. I look forward to tasty fun here, indeed! namaste (proper usage?) Marlena

Of course, Mongo, in the literal sense. One freshly made and one preserved. marlena, your question was whether pickles (achars) qualify as chutneys. my response was merely that to most indians they're two completely different things. if we're going to generalize about condiments why not talk about ketchup and mustard as well? there's some indian varieties of those you don't get anywhere else in the world. Evidently I haven't made myself clear, lets attempt to unconfuse you. It seems you thought I was asking about whether pickles qualify as chutney, without realizing it was simply a humorous intro to my request for pickled lemons. Anyone who knows anything about Indian food knows that pickles are pickles and chutneys are chutneys but they both fit a similar place on the menu, which is to entice and enliven the rice/bread, dahl/stew, veg/meat/fish etc. I'm sure you're trying to be helpful but the idea of someone misinterpreting my request for pickled lemons, to a question about whether or not pickles could be considered chutney....... Perhaps your confusion is because many people, when discovering Indian food may have this confusion (which is exacerbated by the Anglo-Indian type of preserved fruit and chili chutneys). I trust this assists. When people in fora such as this make errors, I don't have the time nor the inclination to point them out, but in this case I thought it might prove helpful. Now, if you as you infer, you wish to discuss ketchup (which has a surprisingly interesting history) and mustard too (though I'm sure there must already be a thread on this fascinating topic, so much to say, perhaps there is one in the France forum?) then you should start a thread somewhere else. For the avoidance of doubt, I would recommend you revisit the original question. Marlena Oon a lighter and spicier note to all: Oh, sunday midday, have just steamed up a big Indo-Chinese panful of steamed dumplings: a bit cross cultural, puffy bread dough filled with curried lamb, steamed on a bed of leafy greens. very momo-like. Yum. With it: yes, an achar, tomato-mustard-onion based, and delicious.

Dear Epi, Great that you linked on to my Parsee eggs! (By the way, lately I've been making them with added tomatoes because some gorgeous fresh tomatoes have come my way, unusual here in the British countryside in April/May. ) And thank you a zillion for the pickled limes. I have a few limes and a couple of lemons in my fruit bowl, so will make up a small batch right now. I can hardly wait. thanks again. god do i love pickled things, and spicy things.....to me the spices taste like bright colours in my mouth! x Marlena

Of course, Mongo, in the literal sense. One freshly made and one preserved. In the looser sense, and I thought I was clear, is that since both act as condiments, perhaps someone had a recipe for pickled lemons! And Yes! There is! I am so excited!

Michal, Happy Yom Ha'atmaut! I agree with you so much about there being much delicious food in Israel to celebrate. When I first went to Israel good food was considered too bourgeouis, decadent, it was all about feeding the masses and getting back to work. idealism and good food didn't seem to match. the last time i was there people i knew were complaining about lack of idealism, but oh, the food was great! So much good food in Israel! I am always trying to promote it but magazines tend to shy away because of the political situation. aren't they sad. my project that i have simmering next to my heart for when there is god willing the hope of peace, is a foodie press trip, to share with writers/broadcasters the fabulous food and wonderfully enthusiastic chefs/producers/foodies of Israel. some of my faves foodwise: the whole malkot ha felafel thing: yum. also they do a grapefruit and arak cocktail which is mighty fine, or at least they did awhile back. warm soft fluffy and light pita. foul and houmous simmered in a big copper pot and eaten by both jews and arabs (again, maybe in these tense times no?). Israeli pickles, and israeli feta which is neck to neck with bulgarian and greece for the best in the world. israeli grilled foie gras makes me cry, sooooo good. the spicy salads and tahina-y dishes, the breakfasts, its worth going to israel for the breakfasts alone. olive oil! i like sabich. i love the markets. zchug! and hasn't zchug become so trendy in europe/usa/australia. ditto for za-atar. borekas, and brik. rumanian pickles. shwarma. tel aviv style felafel with the salads, all of the alluring salads.......fried eggplant...... smoked fish and smoked goose. freshly squeezed juices, and lamajoun. soufganiyot at chanuka. olives! cucumbers and tomatoes! yogurt and shoumenet. as soon as i can get some support from appropriate agencies, I shall do what I can to organize a foodie press trip to israel. in the meantime, happy yom ha atzma ut marlena

I make my own version of cervelle de canut: start with fromage frais or blanc, a smooth cottage cheese like fresh cheese. to this i add: a bit of soft room temperature mashed or whipped butter, or a little cream. then lots of: chopped shallots, garlic, chives, tarragon, chervil, and sometimes parsley, a few drops of lemon juice or a spoonful of dry white wine. Salt and pepper to taste. Then put it into a cheesecloth in a strainer, or in a jar, and refrigerate overnight while it drips. I serve it with carrot sticks as a dip, or with bread for spreading, or....well, taste it. yummy with baked or boiled potatoes too, or layered with sliced cucumbers for a salade composee, or surrounded with wedges of summery tomatoes. Or I just eat it with a spoon sometimes. Marlena

can we consider pickles (indian style) as chutney? if so, does anyone have a good recipe for pickled lemons? I ate one at Rasa in London, and it was soooo good. not in the owners own cookbook, alas. the lemons were silky soft and lemony. salty-pickley-spicy-sweet, and i think there was the crunch of black mustard seeds here and there. Also, I like to add storebought lime pickle, the ordinary stuff you get in a jar, to my chickpea and tomato spicy stew, along with lots of coriander leaves and of course garlic, lemon, etc. Oh, and smear a little mint-coriander chutney inside a goats cheese quesadilla (on naan or flour tortilla, not corn) yum. Marlena

Shame on Marlena, who's been too busy travelling and eating to keep up with reviewing The San Francisco Chronicle for egullet! Back home, here we go: this week's goodies: Early morning in San Francisco's Mission District......warm baking smells snaking their way through the fog........the city may be just waking up, but the Mexican and Salvatorean bakers are already offering their sweet rolls, Latin American style. Tara Duggan reports: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDG136AE4E1.DTL Carol Ness investigates whats going on in the world of salmon: wild, farmed, or organic? http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDG136AE4I1.DTL George Morrone, chef-extraordinaire, opens with Tartare; GraceAnn tells all. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDG136AE4K1.DTL Happiness is a warm potato........who could disagree. This girl is busy chopping and frying, 24/7. I mean, I gotta get that Atkins out of my system says Marlena Spieler. Read The Roving Feast, below: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDG136AG2V1.DTL Kikkoman voted best soy milk in Carol Ness' tastings. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDGJ96AVIV1.DTL Whats new? lots, read all about it: restaurants, goodies, and whats this? the most delicious cookie ever and fabulous frozen scones! (I've eaten my way through boxes of them, order yourself a boxful by mail order). http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDGJC6BH201.DTL Farmers Markets listings: where to find the freshest, and what day they are there! http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDGJC6BFT81.DTL Amanda Berne tells us about a new restaurant in the neighbourhood: BlueJay. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDGJ96B07S1.DTL Meals on Wheels, and Stop Aids benefits: details here. Come, eat, give to a good cause: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...FDGJ96B08I1.DTL

eeeek! I missed a week. with promises that i will catch up in a few days--and i really mean this, cause this is a week that my own column appears--i am nonetheless giving a quickie report on this weeks chron food pages. by the way, if anyone is interested, the chronicle is instituting a new weekly foodie newsletter, so get in touch http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGRO5NJR31.DTL GraceAnn Walden gives the lowdown on all thats going on, including fancy-schmanzy Greek dazzler REstaurant Kokkari, whose chef has just left. Who's taking over, read all about it below. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGC85OVUA1.DTL Olivia Wu, freshly back from Thailand, is wrapping spicy-paste fish in banana leaves and barbecuing them. And are they delicious? I've tasted them, they are! http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGRO5N6TM1.DTL Goldfish, Frito-Lay, Chips and cookies galore, are climbing the no transfat bandwagon, reports Kim Severson. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGRO5N6TO1.DTL Its artichoke season in northern california, be still my heart! Janet fletcher writes about the central coast's harvest, and history from the late 1800s when italian immigrants planted the silvery grey and delicious thistles. pickles artichokes, artichokes with serrano ham and peas, and stuffed baby artichokes from chez panisse's vegetable book are the recipe offerings. (as for marlena? I trim down their rough leaves and toss them into hot olive oil until crisp. sprinkle with salt and garlic, this is breakfast--lunch or dinner--of champions.) http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGRO5N6TQ1.DTL carol ness' tasting panel samples rice vinegar this week. which one did we like, and which one gets a thumbs down. read about it here: http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGC85OVFE1.DTL Whats new? Chocolate galore, kaiseki at masas, and a new italian restaurant. Carol Ness, Tara Duggan, Lesli Neilson, and Kim Severson report. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGFO5PHUD1.DTL Tara Duggan whips up a batch of chimichurri, which not only is delicious but is lots of fun to say. chimichurri chimichurri, it rolls off the tongue just like, well, like a lovely sauce of parsley and onions and chillies and garlic, or should i say, rolls right into your mouth. and its great with asparagus, which is coming into season big time, growing inch by inch even as i tap this in. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGC85OVGA1.DTL

ah, i'm falling down at my job linking the chron food pages to egullet.com. my excuse is that i'm travelling around right now, and at this moment am sitting in a kinkos in sacramento california after having eaten a gorgeous greek salad for lunch. Its all about the culture: yogurt culture that is. janet fletcher writes about how to make it, recipes to eat it with. and you know, it would have been good with my greek salad lunch! http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file...FDGVA5909L1.DTL Julia's restaurant has closed, and there is a story to tell behind the whole deal. Graceann Walden, as usual, tells it all. and then some. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGVA5909J1.DTL endive endive endive. its good, its delicious, i have eaten a lot of it. and you might want to as well, once you are addicted. here is my story: http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGVA5909H1.DTL heavenly tapioca, by carol ness. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGPL5BG6Q1.DTL Whats New? Tapas tapas tapas! Lluna Basque, newly opened in north beach! bill daley, carol ness, lynn char bennett report on it. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGS25BGHR1.DTL Easy bar cookies Flo Braker. her cookies are nearly as sweet as she is. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...FDGPV5B2N21.DTL north beach tavern: pizza is the thing, writes bill daley. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c...DGE156LRM26.DTL