Mayhaw Man

Ashley Hansen, the SnoBliz Maiden, is back at it again. She did a soft opening for friends and family yesterday afternoon. Life's good again at Hansen's Sno Bliz on Tchoupitoulas St. An almond creme with condensed milk on top hit the spot. Today, well, I think it will be tart for me, lemon perhaps, but, no matter what I decide, it's all good. Ain't nothing like 'em nowhere!

It's all about solids. You don't want them plugging up a recti still. Ever. They suck to clean and don't work right when they are plugged up. That's why. Bourbon guys, ALL OF THEM, use these stills, columns, that are continuous feed and designed to be able to not pass solids too far upward. The Scots, as well, are using HUGE stills, for basically the same reason. Just for the record, bourbon started getting whacked out in a still almost 125 years ago. It's not a new idea or technology.

That is both slightly depressing and unsurprising. Any well-known brands you can name offhand guilty of this? ← Just for the record, it is true that many micro distillers are doing this, BUT, it's not really a column. What it is, exactly, more or less (how's that for wiggle room) is a potstill with a rectification column on top of it. They usually have lots of copper in them (picture scrubbing pads packed into a tube) and ONE take off point. What you get, in reality, out of one of those, is a spirit that still contains the flavors that you WANT, and not the ones that you don't want. As I type this, I have one, literally, 10 feet behind me. It's busy pushing out spirit of molasses at roughly 184 proof, which is the result of loading it with 80 proof potstill distillate. It's a pretty amazing process, flavorwise-much like someone saying "I don't like drag racing. It's dumb." Then they end up in Pamona, because someone got free tickets, suddenly realize that it ain't like TV. They're hooked. The process, the equipment, etc. are only part of the process. The personal taste and skill of the distiller (and/or the tradition involved) has just as much to do with it. The copper in the column is there for a reason-You want as much contact as possible as, really, technically, the copper acts with all of the sulfides and stuff and makes them stay, deeply, in the still). Probably, in the still behind me, we have more surface area contact that I would in an old school pot. Plus, better for me, I love what happens in that thing. While it comes out as, well, pretty close to, rocket fuel-once cut back from brain damage level, it's damned delicious as it is at 80 proof. 3, 5, 7 10 years or so in barrels (currently I get them used from Buffalo Trace) and proves, beyond the shadow of a tastebud, that there is a huge difference between a rectification column and just a big ass column On the other hand, you ever been to Scotland? They got crazy big columns there and, happily for them, people are willing to pay crazy money for the stuff.

She's also doing some sponsorship on WWOZ, one of the best radio stations on the planet, , which is a great idea for her. Talk about marketing to the target audience.

Take out from Willie Mae's today (happily, I work not far away in Treme/Gentilly). While I am kind of known for being a fan of the place (weigh your opinions with this fact), I can tell you that it ain't no joke. Kerry is frying chicken (or Slim, her son) that the tough as nails Willie Mae would not have EVER objected to. It's pretty awesome. White beans were really perfect and we had some bread pudding for dessert. If you are in town, and have some time (if you order chicken it will take 25 minutes-they cook it to order...no matter how full the dining room), I highly reccomend that you go. You'll see a part of New Orleans that you wouldn't normally see during a convention visit and, better than that, you'll see a place, and a life, I suppose, that was rebuilt by people that didn't even know the woman or her grandaughter, who is now running the place with style and aplomb.

Ok, so after slogging around for a few years selling stuff and writing stuff, I'm back in the game that is, frankly, the one thing that I know how to do well. While I truly love my my new job, and it's likely that I will keep it until I REALLY retire, I really, really miss eating a decent meal when I get home. I am too shot to cook anything more than 30 minute meals (which, heh, I could kick Rachel's ass all over the kitchen with), but sometimes you want something more complex. Also, something that the leftovers from are worth taking in for lunch, even in a different form. To that end, I have been dorking around with this swell, new crockpot. Now, just for the record, this didn't start out as my idea. My paramour, Ann C from DC, got one of these things as a kind of joke gift (trust me, giving Ann kitchen gear is, truly, the finest example of coals to Newcastle ever presented) and, bizarrely, decided it would be fun to play with. She has made some bomber, world class, Beard winner stuff in it and I can do all of her recipes now. What I am interested in is broadening my spectrum. he equipment itself is pretty amazing. It's six quarts, the controls are really easy to operate and understand (unlike, for example, the alarm on my cell phone) and it works like a champ. I think that it might be something that could be massively fun to play with as long as I have some new ideas, tips, etc., to go along with it. I am, as many of you know, a Southern boy and, in particular, a Louisiana boy. Happily, many, many of the dishes that are considered really traditional here are one pot dishes and, with a bit of adjustment, they lend themselves really, really well to this fine piece of machinery. While I can happily eat gumbo, ettoufee, sauce picant, chicken fricassee, and all of my homelands other favorite daily meals, I am looking to make some stuff that might be a little different and that will be ready when I come home so that all I have to do is make some rice, or some pasta, whack out some green stuff in a sautee pan, heat some bread, and sit down and use my carbon covered hands (that's hard to get off-someone, somewhere, when you are drinking your fine spirits and reading this ramble, is at home trying to scrub the activated carbon off of his hands-it's tough) to fork some fine food into my gullet. So, what I am looking for is some advice from some folks who really know how to make these things sing. I eat anything and everything, so menu limitations are few. I will be willing to use recipe gullet (something I am phenomenally bad at following through on, but I will really try) to post some amazing recipes that we have already put together if some of you will be willing to help me out with recipes, hints, whatever might turn me into a crock pot whiz instead of a crock of .... There's not much better than coming home to great smells and the basics of a delicious meal. Help me out here. I would really appreciate it.

That show pretty accurately depicted, whether the rest of America knows it or cares about it or not, OUR real life. It's hard, at least if you are honest, to paint it any other way.

On the other hand, it's kinda hard to avoid if you are spending your time dealing with the realities of post K NOLA and are reporting on restaurants. I had dinner on Mardi Gras night at my house for about a dozen friends (Ann's chili...mmmmm). Everyone of them owns restaurants or writes about them for a living (and you would know all of them, in fact, and their places or publications). While we talk about lots of things, it always, and I mean always, comes back somehow or another to the subject. It's kinda hard to avoid. While the front of the house may look much, to the casual observer, like it did before the levees gave out-believe me, from farm to market, to the prep kitchen-it ain't the same world. It's a slog on every level and Bourdain, being a cook, probably found it somewhat unavoidable. While you are pretty right about some of the coverage, I think that the guy did a pretty good job and, in fact, some of it was right on the money.

I know that, at least several years ago, they were still being made in Winnsboro. I will check on it for you today. I learned this little tidbit in a desperate, and ultimately successful, search for a couple of handsome Big Shot t-shirts. What's interesting about it to me is if Zulu gets any royalties out of the deal. After all, the Big Shot depicted is, essentially, swiped right off of a float. And, just in case you were wondering, Pineapple Big Shot is a fine mixer with a decent rum and a hunk of lime. Really. B

Ummm, like they said.... (gotta learn to type faster)

It's really not that hard. Get a some old containers for soft drink syrup Tons of them on ebay or you might have a local supplier. There are tons of them around and they aren't expensive. Fill them with water that you want to carbonate, put pressure on them (alot). Put them in the refrigerator Add co2 pressure over a couple of days. The colder the better. Voila! Carbonated Water. I've been doing this for years for various projects (right now, as I type, I have a ginger drink (fresh ginger juice, rum, water, secret ingredients) that I am working on perfecting) and it works great. In a couple of days (depending on your personal carbonation needs/tastes) you will have plenty of bubbly h2o. Good luck.

Not entirely. Several things also add to the price. 1) Currently gas is crazy expensive-no matter where you live in the world. I am in New Orleans and, though it is home to a large chunk of the world's natural gas supply, we pay a ton for it. It adds greatly to the cost of distillation 2) My understanding is, and I'm sure that there are lots of exceptions, that grappa distillers, like many other "small market" spirit distillers, make limited amounts of their products and that demand versus supply has alot to do with it. They wouldn't be selling it for that much if someone wasn't stumbling up to the bar and plunking down the dough. Also, just for the record, at the moment, anyway, corn is NOT cheap, nor are any grains. They are crazy expensive. I have no idea what the demand/pricing situation is with grape waste, but I'm sure that it's not cheap and with the explosion in interest in their by-products, I'm sure that they've gotten nothing but more expensive. Wood stock (barrels) are now extremely dear thanks to a demand from new small distilers and especially from a massive need from Japanese spirits manufacturers. Used bourbon barrels, for example, sold for $75USD just a year ago-they now go for, if you can find a supply, upwards of $300USD. While the spirit in them might be worth 8-10K (in my case), that still adds to the cost greatly. Like most things, it's gotten more expensive to make the stuff, no matter how you look at it. Hell, even stuff like cheap vodka has gone up due to the cost of grains, fuel, storage, and transportation. And just for the record, I am a big fan of grappa. But what do I know? I love raw corn whiskey if it's made well. I'm not too picky.

Just make it cost alot and have it be really complicated and annoying. If you can accomplish all of that, you will have pretty much done your job.

It's a great book. My boys gave it to me for Christmas. As for where I've been, well, I've taken over as head distiller at New Orleans Rum. While I know alot, I have to say that the learning curve has been pretty steep and has definitely wrecked my usual routines. That, and the coupling of Christmas and Mardi Gras (it might not seem that way to most of the country, but believe me it's the way that it works here) have left me with little time to think, much less type.

Aside from the obvious suggestions of Paul Prudhomme and Justin Wilson, you probably should include John Folse. Not only can the guy cook, but he is a hell of a culinary leader for the culture and the state. Nice guy, too. John Folse does lots of stuff. Well.

For Orpheus Ann (Cashion) and I knocked out some of her unbelievable deviled eggs and some cuban sandwiches made with some pork shoulder that I smoked last weekend, some ham, provelone, creole mustard and homemade mayo on little pistolettes. Apparently, they didn't suck. They got hoovered up like mad. I'm glad that I got to eat before I climbed my ladder because, otherwise, I would have gone home very hungry.

Mags, I loved this. I just went over it again, and try as I might, I can't, though it is normally my M.O., make a great joke out of it. So, I won't even try. I will say that, in much the same way that you feel about Conrad, I have the same feelings about Carson McCullers. I'm as Southern and traditionally left as you can get down here, but, umm, I just don't get into it like my other literary brethren (though if she had been offered a knighthood I might feel differently-I love a royal pain in the ass). I know that my heart should be lonely and hunting, but, well, it's generally full and not looking for much beyond a decent lunch with free ice tea refills. But, just as you are with Conrad, I'll keep trying til I'm ten toes up. On the other hand, I have a permanent deal for Lucinda Williams. When she finally calls, and she will, all bets are off. I get it and I want it. She loves to eat, her dad is brilliant, and she doesn't need to light the oven for high heat. She just needs to stand next to it. Things will boil shortly thereafter. Have a great new year up there in Iceland. Love, Brooks

I've eaten there a bunch recently and highly recommend it. It's pretty damned swell, overall. Lots of really good country French stuff that will please you and served in a lovely, kind of casual, kind of elegant, setting. Say hi to the rediculously tall young man in the kitchen. That's my boy, Miles. Tell him that Dad said to get back to work.

I've always liked iGourmet, but I have had some pretty good luck with Cheese Supply, as well. They have a broad selection, it shows up in good shape, and if you handle it right (order a bunch) you can get a pretty good deal on shipping.

Sounds to me like the consensus is pretty good and the food is speaking clearly. I'm looking forward to going next month when I am in Houston. I'm not really surprised, though. As I said in my post above- She knows what she is doing. Thanks for the reviews. I enjoyed them.

I agree. I didn't always get a chance to see Sara's show, but I liked it when I did. I found it curious when they didn't renew her contract. Now Mario and Emeril are gone and all that remains is vapid programming. Can Alton Brown's exit be far behind... ← She said that they cut her (and I'm more or less quoting) because she wasn't young enough and that she didn't have enough cleavage. Then, right after that, she launched into a history of sexual discrimination at the Food Network dating back to day one. It was really well put, funny, and not surprising.

What those clowns at FN SHOULD be paying attention to is their overall viewership. I would like to know what that is. I can't imagine, even given the average tv audience, that they have gained many viewers in the last three years or so. Sure, they can bag Emeril, but, in reality, whether you liked the show or not, it was probably the most interesting thing going on there for the last two years or so-even if it was repetitive and dull to most folks who have an interest in learning anything about food and cooking. It's funny, but several years ago (it was before the storm, so maybe 3?) I saw Sara Moulton speak here in New Orleans and she was brutally blunt about how screwed up the management was at FN and how ALL they cared about was some kind of middle ground entertainment for the masses and they didn't have any interest in any real cooking instruction or information (somewhere around here I wrote a long post about this, but I can't find it right now). I think that she called it perfectly.

Emeril can cook. Better than most. We'll be glad to have him home. After a somewhat questionable absence directly after the storm, he came back with a vengeance and has been very, very active in some extremely important and worth causes, mostly concerning, either directly or broadly, the food industry in New Orleans. And I'm sure that taking New York out of his already overloaded travel/oversight schedule will be a welcome relief for someone who has been doing the same thing, month in and month out, for so long. As for FN, I haven't watched anything on there for years for more than, maybe, 10 minutes. The last thing that I regularly watched were the Japanese Iron Chef shows, which were great and highly entertaining, and since they disappeared I just kind of stopped. I already know how to cook garbage and I don't really care very much how Twinkies and jawbreakers are made or what it being served on a stick at the Minnesota State Fair.

It is? That's news to me, but, then again, my eating experience when growing up was primarily centered around people who knew what the hell they were doing and knew what tasted good. I've never seen the stuff and a quick search for it using several different search terms turned up a few recipes, but they seemed to be mostly not from anywhere near here. And, trust me, not one of the women who raised me or had anything to do with my general upbringing would invite Paula Deen over for anything-unless it was some kind of official function that called for her (being polite is requires that you make sacrifices-besides, it gives you something to talk about after they leave)-like someone in her family getting married or a funeral or something. She's tacky, annoying, tasteless, loud, way too over the top, and, while some folks may think that's "how we eat," believe me when I tell you I know waaay too many women who are considered to be just ok cooks who could put a meal out in no time that would make Paula's look like what it is-Food TV Garbage.

Yes, I have used them-all of them, though not really the models shown in the ads. The electric was the least satisfying-way too slow. I liked the old crank one (I actually have one, though it's a "display" model on top of my cabinets-it works and was my grandmother's, but I haven't used it in years) so I am sure that a new one, modeled on the same design, would be a good thing. I actually thought that one that I linked too looked pretty cool-though I need one that holds at least 5 cups of whatever just because I already make a big enough mess when I bake and loading the thing twice leaves my kitchen looking like the Columbian mafia has been weighing out the weeks imports. I'm trying to learn to be neat, though it might be a fruitless effort.