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Mayhaw Man

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by Mayhaw Man

  1. I eat there all of the time. Family owned pho joint, and quite a good one. I usually get a small with everything on the list. A small bowl is somewhere between the size of a hubcap and Lake Pontchatrain. It's usually enough. They have good dripped coffee drinks and you can eat dessert across the way at the bubble tea place. All in all, HKM is worth a drive, just for that kind of stuff.
  2. Deviled Eggs Charbroiled Oysters Decent Champagne Okra and Tomatoes Squash Casserole Lady Peas and Tasso Roasted Chicken Smoked Butt Leidenheimer Table Loaves, toasted and brushed with butter Decent Red and White Wine Cheese Board of great American Cheeses Semi Sweet Dessert of some sort Whatever Reisling I had at 11 Madison Park a couple of weeks ago (awesome) A home distilled assortment for those who haven't floundered after the above An ambulance that my insurance will pay for That should about cover it.
  3. The biggest issue here is that there just aren't that many people who farm seasonal vegetables beyond what we are really known for (tomatoes, bell peppers, squash, etc.) Lettuces and greens don't grow here very well in the summer because of the heat, humidity and the bugs, and things like peas, etc. just give it up as soon as we get into mid july (if you don't believe me, come have a look at my back fence-it's a dead and dying zone now when, three weeks ago, it was a garden market). Also, the few people who do this manage to sell what they make directly to restaurants or at the farmers markets. I also think that the fact that most of us who are into it know where and how to get it directly adds to it. In New York, or Chicago (your examples), most people don't have access to the farmers directly because of milage or isolation from the land. Here in New Orleans, we really don't have either. Hell, I went fishing this morning and killed the trout within sight of downtown (and also within sight of a couple of small villages that are completely and finally destroyed forever) and on the way home, picked up a basket of green tomatoes, some squash, and some gorgeous okra on the way home. It's just not that hard here. Though it would be nice. I would probably join a CSA just because it would be fun to see what would show up. Kind of like a biweekly, veg oriented, instant version of iron chef.
  4. I am crazy about the stuff from Jacob's in LaPlace, LA. While you are at it, order up some of their andouille. It's pretty tasty, as well.
  5. That ice is truly magic. And, Miss A got my favorite flavor combo. I had one today. It's hot here. That place makes it bearable and it's conveniently located. A medium is just right to get me home with just enough to sit on the front stoop of my little shotgun and finish it.
  6. That man is a class act is right. He's massively entertaining and that stuff he is spouting out is not something he is reading off of a script. If you don't watch it, he'll go off like a juke box on whatever you order. I love having one or two with Chris. He's happily ensconced at the really cool bar in the lobby of the Pere' Marquette Hotel now (coveniently located right outside the door to MILA. I highly reccomend all visitors go visit Chris. Really nice guy, really classic mixologist.
  7. As always. Thanks. And I would have been with you on that particular decision-until the spices got to me. At that point, it's every man for himself.
  8. Bourbon and water in a tall glass is always a soothing refresher, but, on the other hand, I was raised (sadly, this is almost literally true) on The Old Fashioned (this is a good video of Chris McMillan whipping one up. It makes one damned thirsty to see him doing this. Chris is a talented man.
  9. Doc, Nice work. Just out of interest, and knowing that you spend alot of time in Manhattan, where I have a very difficult time ordering drinks (though I do it anyway, most of the time) because I know that I can often BUY a bottle of whatever the main ingredient for a cocktail is at twice the price of said cocktail... How much is too much in India?
  10. Funny you should say that, this is pretty close to my last wish, though, if I kick off in the dining room, I would like the funeral director to be instructed to order 100 lbs. of grade A lump crabmeat and lay me out in it. Sure, it will stink a bit later, but so will I, and I know that, if there is an afterlife of anysort, the first few minutes of it will be very satisfying and over the top. Besides, maybe St Pete has a taste for the stuff, and that's good, as I'll need all of the help that I can get in order to get through the Pearly Gates. Glad you are having fun. That was a great write up on the place. I've already sent it on to the proper authorities. B
  11. Willie Mae's SHOULD be open around 11-11:30, N.O.LA.S.T. Don't get in a hurry. It ain't Galatoire's, but, on the right lunch, it can be as interesting of an experience. As you are very patient, you shouldn't have any worries.
  12. I don't know what's going on elsewhere, but they are building one just off 14th by the Metro Stop in Columbia Heights, kinda across from Target. And the one at the ballpark has the longest line of any stand in the place (including that Cajun place-what the hell is up with that? There's nothing there that is even remotely Louisiana oriented. Just wannabes). And, surprisingly, it's pretty good. Even when the Nats make you regularly feel like you want to throw up.
  13. Nice work. Looks like you had a good first night, sort of. Hand Grenades? Yikes! I used to make "Hand Grenade" beer for those guys. It didn't do as much damage as the "tube o' death" but it got the job done. I'm glad that you enjoyed Cochon. Unlike Todd, I've been crazy about the place from the first day because it reminds me of home and growing up, but punched up to a point where it's even more memorable and, as Todd says, Steven just keeps getting better at it. I don't see it stopping anytime soon. If you go back, get the Pineapple Upside Down Cake-trust me on this one, it might be a pedestrian idea, but it's really good. What's on the agenda for today. Looks like rain in the forecast this afternoon, though they seem to be just big thunderstorms floating around, so you might get lucky. Have fun. B
  14. It's getting kinda late, but one fun thing to do is to go to Big Fisherman and get a few pounds (and a few of their crawfish pies-mmmm), some liquid refreshment, and head over to Audubon Park for a picnic. Beyond that, they're getting harder and harder to find. We had some at Franky and Johnny's last week that were nicely sized and pretty good, though it's a crapshoot whether they'll be hot or not. It's usually best to do the place on a weekend night when they are sure to be busy and boiling.
  15. The deal with crawfish is pretty much as it is with shrimp, though there aren't any Gulf going vessels involved. The early season crawfish mostly come out of rice fields and that water has to be pumped in. Some pumps might have electricity, but most, like on our farm, are powered by diesel generators and the cost per acre to flood has gotten so high that many farmers who used to use crawfish as a good and plenty fun way to make some extra dough (or lease out to someone who wanted it) is a thing of the past. The cost per acre to flood is just too expensive to bother with and that, coupled with really good grain prices, will keep things like this, or worse for a long time to come (the grain prices come into play when you consider that these fields have to be drained, dried, planted, and reflooded 3 times or so during the growing process and if a wet spring occurs, planting might be late on your main money crop-so why take the chance? I've been buying big, 12-14 count, shrimp in New Orleans directly from the guy catching them, the night after he catches them, for 5 bucks a pound. It's more than he gets a the dock, twice as much or more, so he's happy to unload them for what he can make. I have a freezer full as I'm stocking up because I think that they are going to be harder and harder to get in the future. I don't eat shrimp from anywhere else unless that is the place that I am visiting. Louisiana shrimp in Louisiana. Period.
  16. Todd, if I give you my opinion on this I expect to be invited over for some well mixed quenchers.... Gin-I am a huge fan of Plymouth and Beefeaters, but, as a mixer in stuff like G and T, I find Gordon's to be remarkably acceptable Rum-Flora de Cana is, in my mind, the gold standard of bargain priced rums. They make several ages, at different distilleries around the Carib rim, but they're all pretty good, though I'm partial to the 4 year old. Oh, and if it's light rum that you need, I am rather fond of the lighter flora de cana, but I also like Ron Zapaca and Old New Orleans (which is cheap where you live). Bourbon-this is a category where you can do lots of good things for cheap, but, my personal taste, runs to Old Charter (if you are really on a budget, and you, of all people, know that I have been for a while, Jim Beam is pretty good stuff). But, I think that has more to do with the way that I grew up-my dad can hammer a few old fashions out on the dock after 5-just make sure that you don't wipe out the ice before 5-he gets crazy pissed. If you need a rye, the Wild Turkey works (though, this weekend, the Van Winkles hit us fryers up with some 23 year old Pappys and while it's crazy expensive, I might mortgage my car for one of the cases of 3000 bottles that they just packed up. It made a Sazerac at 11 Mad Park that would make you yell and spank your gramma) Vodka-I hate the stuff and have no respect for it. It's what it is, I don't care what any of you say. I buy Taaka and dump stuff in it. I ain't paying much for the stuff. Giant waste of money. THe discussion of how good a, by definition, tasteless spirit is just cracks me up Tequila-this is a tough one, but while I was working in MX, the lads went for Cazadores when I was buying, so it's good enough for me. It's good straight and is light enough to make a great mixer. If you are hitting the blender with a lot of junk, once again, you might as well buy local-Torada! You can barely taste it anyway. As a former resident, and major consumer, of Irish Products, I completely agree with JohnnyD-Powers will get the job done and it's delicious. Unlike Bushmill's, which some pubs don't even stock, Powers is ubiquitous and delicious. It makes a fine, crazy good, hot irish, among other things. I'll be awaiting a call...
  17. Doc, It was a pleasure meeting you, as well. Nice boy you've got there. Chip off of the old block, by the looks of things. The subway was pretty funny. I ran into you on one trip, Besh on another, and then Bud Trillin. Who knew you would meet so many friends on something like that. I might have to start just riding around to see who I see. The flavors were there. They were delicate, admittedly, but, by definition, unlike okra cornbread, with the frying aspect, you are never going to have anything that is overwhelming if you want it to fry into a ball and we were having enough trouble with that on Sat, thanks to the heat and only half of a tent. Sunday, our gameplan was much, much better, though, no matter what, we were still frying to order-but we had a new system and it was going much, much better. Our new system was developed at dinner at 11 Madison Park. This is the kind of place I like to have a meeting-though if I did all of my companies would quickly be in the red and the stockholders would sue for misappropriation of funds. It was, truly, the best meal that I have had in a very long time. I have eaten there a number of times, but not since the chef change a few years ago and every component of every meal was wonderful. The Wine Steward was a remarkable young woman and as I was with someone who is one of the most knowledgable wine folks around (Johnny Fulchino), listening to their conversation (not to mention the dusty bottle results-mmmm) was worth it. Also, whoever is doing their pastry and desserts is as good as it gets. I had samples of everything, but there was this coconut panna cotta thing that I could have taken a bath in. That dish was stunningly good. And that place is still, in my mind, the most beautiful room in NY. I love going in there-even just for a drink (which they have absolutely no problem with, though most people don't think about it as a bar). See you soon in New Orleans, I hope. Wear shorts. It's always that hot where I live.
  18. Doc, were you able to discern any smoked-crawfish flavor? ← Not that I could specify. The flavor as a whole was great and very satisfying, but I couldn't specifically distinguish crawfish or okra amongst the spices and the sauce. ← Ok, I should leave this alone, but I can't- There, percentage wise, was alot of both in terms of proportion, but, think about it- both were fully cooked (or smoked) when they went into the mix. So, when it gets mixed (with our highly effective redneck mixing method-a 3/4 horse drill and a drywall blade), the okra and the crawfish get mixed in pretty well. Whole tails are not a possibility (because they are cooked and delicate, they seperate some when being mixed, as does the okra) when one is cooking 500 pounds of batter at 2oz. a shot (you do the math-and we did it in 13 very, very hot hours-just three people plus Ann Cashion on Sunday afternoon as John had to leave to go to the Beard's). Beyond that, generally, the only comments that we got back were beyond positive about the product and while Saturday was a hard day, Sunday went smoothly and people were really nice. Even Steven, though he should have said something and gotten some more-we're from the South-we're nice-we'll make it right for you if you just axe politely-was nice. Imagine that. It was good to see him, as a matter of fact, and if he was the genius eater that he purports himself to be, he would have just come back and asked me to fix it for him . But, he didn't. Sorry, Steven. Next year... And just for the record, we were the last people serving yesterday, and served until the last person went through the line. It was a fun festival and City Grocery will be back next year. People were really nice (excepting one woman who may have been the rudest, most unreasonable woman that I have ever had the displeasure of speaking too-but, one out of ten thousand seems pretty fair. She's a very unhappy person. I would hate to be her mailman or something) and, given that we were cooking to order right in front of the fast pass line, I got to talk to a whole bunch of folks. Next year, come give them a try for yourself. It was great seeing so many people that I know and haven't seen for a while, and meeting new friends, as well. But, look, I'm from New Orleans and grew up in the Delta. I already know all about being really hot. I don't need to learn more. Can't you guys get the mayor or somebody to do something about the weather? Sheesh, fryers in 100 degree heat in the sun? Smokers in the 100 degree heat? All I could think of was that I wish that we still had Abita and I would just be over in the beer garden under the tent with a keg instead of 10 gallons of 325 degree peanut oil gurgling away.
  19. This remarkable vessel might suit your needs. I know that it mine and my grandmother's for better than, at least, 70 years, between the two of us. I would post some pictures of it in action, but it would seem that all of the photos that accompanied the foodblog that I did in another life don't exist anymore, or at least they don't work. I don't know how this works, but they are still in photogullet. I'll axe someone with more knowledge than me and get them back up
  20. If you can find wherever they are putting John Currence and his Smoked Crawfish and OKRA hushpuppies, well, you can find me. Apparently I will be a frymaster for the weekend-probably up to my elbows in cornmeal, crawfish, OKRA and grease for 12 hours or so. Yikes! But, really, they are awesome little spheres of cornmeal delight made by dedicated, highly trained, overeducated rednecks. I highly recommend them. Does anyone else have issues with saying no? Even to their best friends? More importantly, what kind of liquid refreshments do they have at this thing?
  21. See, that's why there are all kinds of people in this world. To me, in this place and at this time, if someone said, what would be your favorite meal, in terms of all conditions and considerations (food, atmosphere, service time of day, etc.) mine would easily be a 4 or 5 hour, day ending (oh boy, trust me on this one-there's no point in having early dinner plans) experience at Galatoire's on a Friday. Maybe you have to be from here, or maybe you even have to have been raised with it, but it's a really interesting, entertaining, and truly fun experience if you can just relax and enjoy it. It doesn't get anymore New Orleans than G's on a Friday lunch. On the other hand, I think that a few hours eating everything on the top of the menu at Cochon is, in an entirely different way, just as nice. It's all about what you want, I guess. To me, just because it's all white tablecloth and decked out waitstaff and decked out diners, doesn't always make the evening more special. If it did, I would just tell people to go marching to Antoine's. They dress real pretty there and it certainly is nice since the Hurricane redo. That being said, lately, when I have something to do that requires getting dressed up and "doing it up right" I have been going to MILA over and over again. One night, during the IACP, I actually managed to have apps at MILA, entrees at August, and dessert and nightcaps back at MILA. That, my friend, was a night that anyone could appreciate in terms of specialness (they are conveniently only a few blocks apart-so it's pretty easy to do). MILA is my favorite, not "old school", room in the city. Alison and Slade are as talented as anyone around and the service is just what I like-well timed, but not overly attentive (not 800 trips refilling water and asking, "how's everything?"). Were I in NOLA, and needed a night to do this sort of thing, I would pick it for them over everything else, but with one caveat-since Daniel is well known as a NY food guy, he probably wants to stay more on the NOLA side of things and, in that regard, August, Bayona, and Herbsaint all fit the bill perfectly (though John's stuff at August is a bit more on the modern side of things, so, if you want to stay a little bit closer to LA traditional, but really worth it and on the mark, I would take the second two over the first-but they're all damned tasty). But, like I said, it's pretty hard to miss here in the Summertime. Hotels and flights are rock bottom and restaurants are even more glad to see you than they normally are. It's too bad more people don't put it into their summer travel plans. While he's here, I'll be there for the Big Apple BBQ and the Beard's. Can't wait.
  22. Well, that may be, but, in reality, the last thing on Earth that I would ever tell anyone to do is go have breakfast at Brennan's. It's the most overrated, over priced place in this city. It's expensive dinner money for an ok breakfast in a nice room, IMO. I know that people love it, and I'm glad that you did, but it's just not my cuppa, you know? I love the room though and on the rare occasion when I am invited to a large social event there, I always enjoy it. So, to each his own. Beyond that, you might be right, but I was telling them what I might do (and, for what it's worth, I just discussed this with my S.O. and she didn't think that it was far off of the mark-and she knows more than just about anyone in this country about dining and restaurants and is not short on informed opinion). I was using his list as a kind of general guide, which, with the exception of Antoine's, was not exactly August, Mila (I love these two first choices the most in the city right now-MILA inspires and August makes me glad that I still live here), Herbsaint, Bayona, and Delmonico- which, incidentally, if I was talking fine dining, might be my first four choices-but, of course, I would probably also include Commander's (but only for weekday lunch), Lillette, which I dearly love (mmm, pork belly with cucumbers and tomatoes), Clancy's (maybe not the best place in town, but damned tasty and very, very New Orleans in an Uptown, downscale, Galatoire's kinda way), Upperline (Ken doesn't ever screw it up-he's a wonder to behold when rattling the pots and pans) and certainly Brigstens. It looked to me like he was looking for a New Orleans thing that was not really just the tried (for good reason-they're good) and true. Stepping down a notch, I am currently a huge, huge fan of Dante's Kitchen, and then there's Jacques Imo's, Zoe, Luke, Bacco, Stella, Muriel's, K-Pauls (another one of my never tiring favorites-it's what it is, which is generally great at all times, though really pricey), Mandina's, Jamila's, Mat and Naddies, and the list would go on and on. Anyway, it's a big town for places to eat and the time of year that he is going to be here means that getting in isn't exactly going to require sitting in the bar on the wait for two hours, so they have a clean shot at anywhere that they want to go. It's hard to miss this time of year-shrimping and crabbing is good, there are lots of fresh fish being caught, and generally things are straight in off of the boat (the ones that are disappearing because of 4.35 a gallon diesel, so enjoy it while you can) and into the pan. You can't get that just everywhere in this country. We're lucky that way. Glad you picked up Sara's book. It's really a great read. Every week when I pick up the Gambit I wish that I could just turn the clock back three years and get things back to that point in time. Reading her columns every Sunday night or Monday morning were always a highpoint in the week. She's truly amazing at what she does and I'm glad that she's a friend, but I wish that she had her old job back. It's not that Ian McNulty isn't good-he is and I enjoy his work-it's just that Sara has a touch about combining the food, the places, and the people that isn't very easy to achieve and she can do it in her sleep, or so it seems.
  23. It's funny. I just finished up with something and, part of it anyway, had to do with what I would do with my last, living, eating hours in New Orleans. Of course, I immediately wrote something that involved not eating out at all, but cooking, and, of course, I immediately got it back with a terse message saying that I had completely missed the point of the assignment. It only involved a day, so this isn't the same thing, but, right now, here's what I would do if I was coming in on Thursday night Go to see Kermit at Vaughan's and hope that he has the grill out front. If you can't or don't get your fill at Vaughan's, head over the the Verti Mart after the show and go enjoy a nice spread off of the buffet (I am crazy partial to the brussel sprouts coupled with a reuben sandwich, but that's just me-they have a wide selection and it's remarkably dependable). Friday morning, I would get up and go have some breakfast at either The Bluebird or the Blue Plate Cafe (both are on Prytania, though BPC is much closer to downtown, easily accessible by streetcar, and my favorite of the two) Lunch would be at Galatoire's DOWNSTAIRS. Friday lunch is something that is not to be missed at G's and it can be a great deal of fun if you just relax and get into the spirit of watching rich folks act like they are in a very expensive truck stop coffee shop. Dinner on Friday night, after a lunch at G's, would be a bit lighter (also, I expect that you will want to see some music, so a big, fat nap might be the way to go in the late afternoon). I concur with Todd's Frenchman rec (unless there is something very specific that catches your eye) so, why not eat on Frenchman. I love Mona's (all of the Mona's, but that one holds a special place as it was a) opened right after the storm and b) it's convenient to DBA, which has it's own set of attractions, all of them shaped like taphandles) or maybe, if you still want some calories, Praline Connection or Marigny Brasserie. I like them both, though the first is pretty much straight up Creole soulfood and the second is much more contemporary and a in a space that I really like. Sat morning, you'll be exhausted, but you can't quit (sleeping is for babies). Get up and head out on the streetcar for a ride. Go all of the way up to the end of the line (at least currently-supposedly they are pretty close to letting them run all of the way) and eat at Camellia Grill. No, the food isn't the best-it never has been-but the experience is well worth it and a nice morning on the streetcar, no matter where you are going, is always a pleasant deal. St Chuck is one of the most beautiful and interesting streets in the US and it's always fun to look at. Before you get back on the streetcar, you should walk up to the top of the levee and look at the river. Though it's falling, it's still pretty high and it's something to see. Downriver ships are flying on the current and upriver ships and barges are barely moving. I live 12 blocks from the river and at night I can hear them perfectly. They are burning some diesel to keep going against that current. Now, lunch would be at Willie Mae's. You'll be hungry after all of that activity. Just go, plan on it not being fast (go before 1-they stop seating at 2, but if you go to late, you'll miss some veg, usually and bread pudding if Carrie has it is always in short supply). Order the chicken, immediately, before you order water or anything else, because IT IS GOING TO TAKE 25 MINUTES TO COOK and there is nothing you, or anyone, can do to speed it up. It's made to order, as it should be, and it's worth the wait. If she has stewed chicken on the menu, I would get that, but the pork chop and the veal are also always worth getting. It's what it is-basic food that is basically great (thanks Joe). Saturday night, for me, would be time to go see my friend porky in all of his many guises-namely I would head down to Cochon and order the entire app section of the menu. If I was still hungry, the entrees are still there, but if there are two of you, this would be a great way to see what Steven Stryjewski and Donald Link have going on and you'll like it-period. If you don't, well, something is bad wrong with you. Sunday morning, assuming that 72 hours means that you are bailing out on Monday, you might as well go on over to Cafe DuMonde and do the tourist thing. Nothing wrong with that. It's a great place and, on top of that, it's one of the superior people watching locations in the city, in my mind. I love it there and, even though I know it's a bit trite, I go there more often than I like to admit-plus it's good coffee and it's cheap. What mo' could you axe fo? Sunday lunch would be a great time to go to Parkway Bakery (forget Liuzza's, do soemthing new). Great sandwiches, interesting place. Once again, if you are going for Sunday lunch, you can just ride the Canal Streetcar out to Jeff Davis and walk straight down Jeff Davis until you get to it. It's a very pleasant walk and would afford you the opportunity to see a neighborhood that is, at the point, a good snapshot of modern day New Orleans-some of the houses are perfectly rebuilt and landscaped, some of them are just gutted and some of them, well, dey ain't dere no mo'. Sunday dinner-this is a tough one. Sunday night is not the greatest dining night in New Orleans, but if you are staying Downtown, why not stay downtown. How about Mr B's, GW Finn's or Bayona (for something on the other end of the scale, pricewise, there are always Coop's, Louisiana Pizza Kitchen, or maybe a sandwich from Acme). Monday morning, assuming that your flight is not at daylight, I have one that you will never have heard of. Get the cab driver to take you to Sammy's Deli on Elysian Fields. It's an old school, family owned, place that, in my mind, is currently making the best poboys in New Orleans and they also make really good standard breakfast stuff. It's in a completely new (well, it's a year old, but you know what I mean) kitchen and front of house that has become a big favorite among early risers or all nighters who have been working all night. Lots of cops, national guards, bus drivers, ups guys, etc use it to begin or end their day. I'm crazy about the place and it's kinda, sorta on the way to the airport, so what the hell, huh? Might as well have one more belt buster before you leave K-ville to go back to Perfectville. Well, that should about do it. These are just my recs in stream of conciousness form. I could, and do, change my mind about this stuff daily, but for now I think that this is the way that I would go. I purposely left our Antoine's, because though I respect the institution (been eating there all of my life) for what it is, the food, well, it's not much to write home about. I also didn't include Liuzza's for the reasons stated above (thought they do have good gumbo and it can all be washed down by giant fishbowls of cold Abita Amber-so, it's not really a mistake-just a repeat). Also, I would definitely find time to squeeze in a snoball from Hansen's. They ARE New Orleans cuisine just as much as any of the hoity toity stuff that you might find on the menus that I recommended above. Plus, the whole experience at Hansen's is way worth it. If you go on Sunday afternoon, kinda around 5, you can get a snoball and walk the 8 blocks down Tchop to Tips and listen to, or participate in, one of the longest running musical events in NOLA, the Cajun Dance on Sundays. It's pretty fun to do, even if you can't dance a lick. Anyway, have fun and bring lots of money to leave here. We can use it. Summer here is dead as a hammer and, this year, it looks particularly bleak. While tourism is way up, the summer, especially after the storm, has been dead. Best, B Edited because I type like I talk, and that doesn't always translate to standard English lit.
  24. Axe, and ye shall receive... Brooksie's Tomato and Basil Pie It's pretty swell. Addictive, actually. Enjoy.
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