Mayhaw Man

I'm not entirely sure that I agree with a number of things that have been proposed here: 1) eGullet hardly exists just to record the thought and hunger processes of high end diners. If that was the case, I would not be able to relate to much of the conversation here-and I can. While I am an experienced high end diner, it is, frankly, not even something that I particularly enjoy. Just scroll through some of the more popular topics here. Butt smoking (you can get a butt big enough to feed the whole rechid family for really cheap), tater tots, that sandwich bag thing, lots of topics specifically about various cooking methods for individual and inexpensive vegetables (though not nearly enough about Okra-the misunderstood pod that could change the world if it were only given a fair chance). And as far as "a restaurant that the average eGulleteer would think was good" you might want to spend a bit of time looking at, for example, that New York Index-it's a pretty broad spectrum and after you do that, start moving around the regional forums and see how much discussion, rediculously serious discussion, that there is of BBQ, hot dogs, blue plates, meat and threes, road house dining, etc. -it's alot. Most of the people here, by and large, can't handle the tab at a French Laundry-but they like to read about it. Vicarious dining is apparently very satisfying for many folks here-myself included. When someone like Doc records one of those orgies that he loves so, I really enjoy following along and in a couple of cases, I have enjoyed going and comparing my experiences to the ones that he has had. It's part of the fun here, if you choose to participate in it. 2) I don't know if the US has the least expensive food in the world, but in terms of selection and variety easily available to the average shopper, we probably are at the top of the charts. A person of fairly modest means can eat very well here, especially if they have the time to prepare (and the know how) a decent meal. Certainly there are many people that spend crazy money on fast food when, for much less, they could prepare better and much healthier meals at home-but that gets into the socio-economic part of the conversation that is much, much more complex than I feel like diving into here. 3) And as far as making "high end dining available to the masses" well, why the hell would you want to? Who, in their right mind, would want to eat all of that stuff all of the time-even the most zealous of these people still like to take a break and eat a basic plate of well prepared food in a home or homelike setting. No one, including those chefs who "are at the altar to be worshipped" can eat this stuff all of the time. I regularly join a group in New Orleans that includes some chefs that everyone here who knows anything about dining here would know. What do we eat every Monday night? Red beans and rice with some kind of forcemeat or pork included, a simple salad, a very simple dessert ( a great selection of Gambino's doberge cake last night-awesome, familiar, and very comforting-that's a big deal here in disasterland right now), lots of drinks, and no small amount of laughter. The discussion never includes, other than compliments to the cook (the food is usually outstanding), any discussion about the food or it's deconstructed ingredients. Most people, even these guys, just like to eat good food and realize that, at it's best, it's merely a compliment to something much greater). The high end, multi course thing is as much of a dance, a ballet with food, taste, and intellectual challenge as it is a meal. As long as it can be appreciated for that, it is kind of fun once in a while-but I don't think anyone can do it all of the time. 4) And as far as chefs benefiting real people goes, why would they? There are plenty, and I mean plenty of people out there who have never, and will never, grace the pages of many of the magazines that you mention. They don't need to. They already have an appreciative audience where they ply their trade-making solidly good food (and often inventive enough)for people who are there to enjoy the food as much for the sustenance as for the good company that often occurs around a well served table. Dining, to me, at it's best, is a balance of many things-surroundings, food, company, service, and the thought that is put into creating an environment that will serve to deftly bring all of these together. This kind of thing is, really, just as available in a small mom and pop place as it is at Per Se or El Bulli (more in my opinion, though some will surely disagree). And as far as some kind of real work for the public, beyond the table in the restaurant, who are the first people to be asked to donate their time (and often their very scarce funds) to every kind of fundraiser to come down the pike? Chefs (well, maybe artists, but that's another website) are. As craftsmen, for some reason, much like artists, people having fundraisers automatically assume that these people have the time, the energy, the will and the talent to help them put together a nice fundraiser-as the people doing the asking usually have no idea just how much work that it actually is or how precious little time that these men and women have for this kind of thing. But give they do, and often. Ask some chef in your town how many of these kinds of events he does every year. You might be suprised. It's probably more than you think. 5) As for the magazines, the ones that you mentioned anyway, their content is all over the place. Gourmet in particular (a magazine that I still enjoy greatly-unlike many of those here) is all over the place. John T Edge and the Sterns are generally not covering high end stuff, but often quite the opposite-but someone will be. As for Chile Pepper (disclosure: I am a regular contributor to that much improved magazine-I like it and would read it even if they didn't write checks with my name on it) I can tell you that it seems to be part of their mission to make sure that, for example, the recipes in the magazine are able to be made by everyone who reads it if they are able to follow instructions and learn a technique or two. It's a really big deal and the recipes are part of the pieces (whether you realize this or not) and not just something stuck in there as filler. Believe me-those recipes have caused me enough pain and suffering to be sure of that fact, if nothing else. So, in short, I believe that food is available (both in the ready to prepare and prepared states) and information about food is available in a wide variety of price ranges and environmental choices here in the US. It is, to me, not at all about being for the rich folks only-at least not anymore than any other class division is. They have more money than you or me, they can do different stuff, but I will argue (and win) that what they choose to do with their money in big deal places is not better, often times not as good or as enjoyable, as what I do with mine in places that are much less expensive but often better in terms of both food and atmosphere. Of course, it's all relative-and these are my opinions. Your experience may vary with driving habits and road conditions.

One of the main things about hair gel is that you have to have some before it's a useful product. So, well, no, I don't have a clue what it's like-but I am perfectly willing to take your word for it.

This is, really, turning into a pretty big joke. I am going to SF in Jan, and then right back to DC, so they will get a good chance to blow up. It will be fun. I can't imagine that it's true, but my one highly unscientific and accidental experience leads me to believe that it might be. This may well be suited for these guys.

You know, basically, I am a little cheap and tawdry. Oddly though, I never feel that way. And a world where it's wrong to flirt with old ladies in return for corned beef and whiskey is not one that I wish to be a part of.

It's funny that you bring up this tasty treat. I was introduced to it at the SFA Conference in Oxford, MS this year during a dinner at Taylor Grocery. It was Halloween, and it was a sugar conference, so everyone was instructed to bring local candy. And they did. Those Valomilk things were great, but Mary Beth Lassiter (the real power in the SFA, and don't you forget it, buddy) told me this really strange story about Valomilk. She called the guy to get some and he wouldn't ship them by air, at all, as he claimed that it ruined the candy-that it broke down somehow. Now I considered this to be total crap, but a good story and forgot about it. BUT THEN I got off a plane a couple of weeks ago and was unpacking my bag and found what else but a completely deflated and kind of gross package of Valomilk that I had apparently left in my bag during my trip (the thing was full of candy when I left as, well, they were just giving the stuff away and I hate to disappoint-free Goo-Goo's anyone?). Could this possibly be a true thing, this Valomilk doesn't fly well thing? I called the guy and he swears up and down that this is true, but I am still not convinced. I have several more packages and I am going to try to mess up my bag a couple of times in January. And as far as the topic goes, I know that Elmer's Candy here has a list on their website during Easter about retail locations around the country, and several of them include New York City. You too could be enjoying a gold brick for the holidays! I love those things.

I was once seated next to a group of the Red Hat Ladies at the Fairgrounds during a day at the races. They were absolutely entertaining, really enjoying themselves and their surroundings and, of course, I was compelled to turn on the supercharm. By the end of the day, I had 10 new girlfriends, all of whom seemed to be competing for my wily charms by plying me with corned beef sandwiches (Fairgrounds Specialty and damned good-I'll be happy when I get a chance to eat another, if I ever do) and strong drink. They were really fun, though most of them were pretty much old enough to be my grandmother. Seriously. Now, as for the SPQ's, it so happens that a couple of real ones (the Jackson kind) are friends of mine. They are well behaved at certain times, and at times, they are pretty far from girls that you would want to take home and introduce to Mama. That parade, the one that begins and ends at Hal and Mal's, in Jackson, is one of the most entertaining parades on earth -though there is a near solid whine of squeeling in the air for the whole day, as all of the Wannabe Queens behave poorly in public for their public. As a guy from New Orleans who knows something about both poor behavior and parades, I would rate this one pretty highly from a purely fun standpoint. I don't really get the SPQ thing, but I have to say that it has it's charms for the casual and easily entertained observer of bad acting women.

My experience (and it's reasonably broad) with this is that guys who back restaurants are generally specialists in this kind of investment and often know as much about what is about to happen as the group who is pitching. Usually, more often than not, they are looking for a track record, a location, and a solid concept that they can all get behind. The track record is probably more important than anything else. People in the business who have made money, solidly and steadily, are much more likely to find capital easily than someone who is looking to do a first time start up. Also, if the person shopping for investors is putting up cash, as opposed to just offering to run the place for a piece of the deal, it will be much easier to find people willing to talk-as putting your money where your mouth is still is a great way to prove that you are going to give it your last breath shot. And there is lots of money for this out there, but what you will find, like most things, is that them that has, gets more. It's a tough racket, lots of failure, and restaurant investing can be very attractive, but even with the most seasoned operator on board, there is a huge amount of risk.

Brett goes to the Northshore. And really likes what he sees. Who wouldn't? Great, truly great food put together by really nice folks. And a really great explanation on why someone would just up and leave a very hot (though tiny) new York restaurant: "We're Southerners," Slade said. "And I'm sick of fishing in the East River."

Thin, but chock full of flavor, is my preference as well. You have a freezer? Seems kind of silly up there, but I suppose you never know when the temp might reach, say 40F.

Well, that begs the question- All things considered, which do you prefer?

Johnny's Half Shell. Great drinks, good wines, better food and it is run by a guy who, in all liklihood, will never have a bachelor party, but probably understands how to throw one like a pro. Always the bridegroom, never the groom. There's a motto there, I think.

Tanks, in my experience, are a Texas thing. Texans are special. Just ask them.

There are lots of good links here (though, humorously, some of them don't work-they are fixing them now-bad html I suspect). Southern Foodways Alliance Shopping List ← Links fixed. Mary Beth Lasseter, the REAL head of the SFA, is incredibly efficient.

There are lots of good links here (though, humorously, some of them don't work-they are fixing them now-bad html I suspect). Southern Foodways Alliance Shopping List You can't do any better than some of these folks, and I hope that some of you do choose to order from some of them-right now, today, only 21% of the pre Katrina number of food sources are open in Orleans Parish (this is easy to calculate, as they have to get a Post K permit to operate). We need the help, desperately, and it's a good way to do something meaningful (short of calling your congressperson and reminding them that some of us are still here-they seem to have forgotten).

I'm going with some folks on Thursday night. I have done a crazy amount of fine dining in the last month. I am going to need to hire a trainer and go on a diet before this is all over with. It's so ugly here that there is just something so nice about sitting down to a well served meal in a nice place.

It's sunny and 85 here in the semi demolished Gulf Coast. You could bring that table down here, put on the bathing suit (or not, whatever floats your boat) and sit around and sip boat drinks. We need the bucks and I bet we could find you a deal. What's that white stuff all over your table?

Orange report from Plaquemine Parish-Basically, there aren't very many and there won't be for a while.

Spoken like a true, Weheinstaphen trained, big boy brewery brewmaster. And he is. Hiya Guy! Come see us. It's a mess! Now, for the first time ever, you don't even notice all of the broken windows at Dixie- I can find the bright side in anything. Always.

Well...yes...I do. And I almost always ask in when dining in places that I am unfamiliar with. It is of great interest to me. I like to know that each meal will not lead to a trip to the gastro doc.

Obviously, you have a bit of time to answer this pile of questions, which brings to mind something that I have noticed with the servicemen in the Middle East. What is you access to the internet while you are at sea? Are you able to log on at certain times of the day, or not at all while you are underway? Are you using ships computers or do many of the sailors have laptops? Thanks again, Brooks

I am involved in a project with Southern Foodways Alliance, right now, doing just that. As soon as we are done (next day or two) I will post a link.

Lucky Dogs consist of only the finest franks and top quality buns. They are served with an assortment of freshly chopped vegetables and delicious condiments. Besides, they're lucky. And they come off of a cart that looks like a hot dog. I don't know how you could ask for more. But no, they aren't out yet. I'm not exactly sure why. I don't think that their warhouse flooded (if it's where it used to be, I am almost positive it didn't). I will make a few calls today and get to the bottom of this burning issue. Sukkho Thai opened back up yesterday in the Quarter. Dinner last night was really good. First Thai food I've had since August.

Thanks for doing this. It never ceases to amaze me what will end up showing up here. 1) What have you made that almost caused a mutiny. Is there something that you though was just great that, well, ended up not being exactly popular? 2) Is there a budget that you have to adhere to, in terms of dollars? Or do you just pretty much have at it and no one complains? 3) Do you resupply at sea at all, or is it always in an American port of call? 4) How many people are on your staff and how many hours a day do they work? What are the shifts like? 5) Do you bake everyday? Bread, yeast rolls, etc.? Thanks again. This is pretty much fascinating

I am happy to report that the taco trucks have begun appearing along several streets. Yesterday I took some time to take a overzealous photographer (Pableux "Hey, I have a new fill flash and I'm going to drive you crazy with it!" Johnson) and an East coast chef (Ann Cashion) on a progress assessment trip through a bunch on New Orleans. It was mainly to show Ann what the deal is and why the fundraisers that she and so many other kind souls on the east coast have been participating in are important and why we hope that they continue. She was, like everyone else who sees it, was blown away-stunned into a depressed silence interrupted by the occasional "Oh my God". We had a fabulous dinner at Lilette (really, it was awesome-in virtually every way except for an annoying water push that kind of got silly-I don't need a new bottle every single time one gets emptied, thanks) and the discussion centered around storm recovery, the city, and how the rest of the country, with the exception of a very few publications and media outlets (primarily the NYT and NPR), seems to be under the impression that things are hunky dory and that we are "all fixed" We're not. And we are really tired of reading that we are. Back to the taco trucks-There were two on Elysian Fields at Filmore in the Exxon Lot. Good crowd around both. We also saw a couple on Chef Highway near Michoud Blvd. I think that they are out there now, and more coming soon, as there are more workers arriving everyday to do tear down/clean up. Hopefully Friday afternoon I will be able to go and give a couple of them a try.

Dude! If there is one thing that I am looking forward to out of this mess it's a pile of Taco Trucks! I love those things. I have a friend, and East Coast Chef, who has been spending her spare time and money researching these things and she is with me in that for many people, it's going to be the best taco that they can find. There is another chef here in New Orleans, again nameless, who is actually working on something along the taco truck concept for New Orleans, only with New Orleans stuff. I think that it would be a great idea. We have nothing here but workers and most of these guys are ripping out drywall and putting on roofs in parts of town where there isn't any power, much less places to get lunch. And as far as the impact goes, last night, on Channel 6, there was an ad during the news in SPANISH. This doesn't happen here. I think that it hit home right then that this is a new world we are living in and tacos are going to be a bigger part of it. And you know what? I say bring them on. This is, if nothing else, a town whose entire culture is made up of stuff from somewhere else that got adapted to local ingredients. One more big influx of immigrants? Cool. After all, New Orleans already had the largest Honduran population outside of Honduras and a fairly large percentage of folks who speak Spanish as a first language. So it's nothing new to us. And also, if these guys are showing up to help put this badly wrecked train back on the tracks and get it rolling again, we're damn glad to have them. So there.