Vetri's Osteria

[Andrew Fenton]

I think it's just a typo, intending to be "candele", but is there such a thing as "canela" pasta?  There are so many names for the various shapes and formulations that I can't keep up, so there might be... I'm just curious!

I think it's a typo. Canella means "cinnamon" (which I suppose could be a pasta name, though it seems strange). I don't think that canela (with one L) is an Italian word at all.

[Mummer]

I think it's just a typo...

I think it's a typo. Canella means "cinnamon" (which I suppose could be a pasta name, though it seems strange). I don't think that canela (with one L) is an Italian word at all.

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Ii'll check with my alumnii associiation to see iif the plural of Lexus is Lexii. Iit's been a long tiime siince Ii took Latiin...perhaps the Japanese marketiing folks who abuse iit today have changed the rules.

[Vadouvan]

I think it's just a typo, intending to be "candele", but is there such a thing as "canela" pasta? There are so many names for the various shapes and formulations that I can't keep up, so there might be... I'm just curious!

You are correct Sir Phil.

There is no such thing as "Canela Pasta".

It is a typo.

Canela means Cinnamon

Candele means Candles hence the fact that the tubes of Pasta are freaking huge.

Of course one could make "Cinnamon Pasta" which does beg the question of what application one could have for it, but I would imagine it would ultimately work in a variation of some traditional dish like the filling of a B'steeya tossed with cinnamon scented pasta and apples.

Hey Chocolate works with duck ragu at James as well as cocoa with boar ragu at Vetri.

However there is no actual pasta shape called "Canela"

Edited April 5, 2007 by Vadouvan (log)

[Vadouvan]

I think it's a typo. Canella means "cinnamon" (which I suppose could be a pasta name, though it seems strange). I don't think that canela (with one L) is an Italian word at all.

Canela with one L has been used by the Portugese for Cinnamon.

Ii'll check with my alumnii associiation to see iif the plural of Lexus is Lexii. Iit's been a long tiime siince Ii took Latiin...perhaps the Japanese marketiing folks who abuse iit today have changed the rules.

Good one Charlie.....wonder what they say at the car dealerships but perhaps car salesmen arent the best people to ask about the finer points of the English language.

The best book written on the subject is this....

http://www.amazon.com/Elements-Style-Fourt...k/dp/020530902X

[Andrew Fenton]

I think it's a typo. Canella means "cinnamon" (which I suppose could be a pasta name, though it seems strange). I don't think that canela (with one L) is an Italian word at all.

Canela with one L has been used by the Portugese for Cinnamon.

And? Last time I checked, Osteria isn't a Portugese (or Brazilian) restaurant.

[lfabio2007]

I think it's just a typo, intending to be "candele", but is there such a thing as "canela" pasta?  There are so many names for the various shapes and formulations that I can't keep up, so there might be... I'm just curious!

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Not to my knowledge. We, by the way, were there twice, thursday-before-last and sunday. First meal was excellent, second meal.. I've had better there. Review to follow.

[lfabio2007]

I think it's a typo. Canella means "cinnamon" (which I suppose could be a pasta name, though it seems strange). I don't think that canela (with one L) is an Italian word at all.

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[townsend]

I was in a while back and the pasta was described as candele, refering to the shape of a candle. Ifabio will probably be able to give some insight on the translation...

[Andrew Fenton]

I think it's a typo.  Canella means "cinnamon" (which I suppose could be a pasta name, though it seems strange).  I don't think that canela (with one L) is an Italian word at all.

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Cannella has two 'n's as well as two 'l's.

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oops! good catch.

Edited April 6, 2007 by Andrew Fenton (log)

[brucedelta]

We ate at Osteria last thursday for the first time. Went early (5:50) with no reservation and probably underdressed. I had been in the city late and decided to pick up my wife and go to dinner. We walked in and as the front desk was debating if we could have a table or sit at bar, a call came in cancelling a reservation and providing us with a table.

Ordered a Pinot for the Mrs and a lambic ale for myself, and asked to start with a lombarda pizza. We were told that the kitchen prefers compleate orders, so we asked the server to come back and then compleated the order. I am not sure how to react to this as I think ordering a starter and then deciding on the rest of the meal is a nice thing for the customer so I was a little suprised by this, but it was no big deal as we were ordiring relativly light.

Pizza Lombarda was very good, light and flavorful. The egg added a richness to the pizza that made it a big winner. It reminded me of pizza we had driving from Nice to Monte Carlo, we stopped at some unkown place in a unknown coastal town for lunch, and ordered a pizza where they cracked a egg on top tableside. In any case we enjoyed it and have fond memories of the trip and that drive in particular, so this pizza evoked those memories.

For dinner we had "casoeula" braised pork ribs and sausage with cabbage and a pasta special, which was postage stamp (their description, not mine) pasta with a creamy cheese filling.

I liked the pasta as the filling was much more flavorful than your standard cheese ravioli, and the pasta shell was delicate and well textured. It was another winner.

I only had a bite of the pork, and found that to be flavorful but I am no cabbage fan.

So overall I would say we will go back!

[philadining]

[BrentKulman]

A picture is worth 1000 words so that post must be worth 6000.

I kept looking at the photos and that could have been the meal we had at Osteria about a week ago.

I think only the pizza was different (we had the Lombarda) and we didn't have an espresso. Oh, and we also had the vegetable antipasti.

In general it was very good - there were some highs and a notable low. The best thing was the vegetable antipasti that featured small taste bites of powerfully flavored vegetables. The pizza and pasta dishes were all excellent; nothing to complain about but we didn't get wildly ecstatic about them, either. The one disappointment was the roasted lamb dish. Well-done lamb gets that muttony taste and this dish was no exception and it wasn't saved, for us, by the inventive lamb-based stuffing.

We went on a Tuesday night and were easily accommodated, even though they had lost the record of the reservation I had made. The waitstaff was well-trained and helpful.

Overall, a very nice meal but after having dined at Ansill the night before, it fell short of being our most memorable meal in Philadelphia.

[philadining]

The pizza is one we hadn't seen before: ecargot, spring garlic, mozz. It was quite delicious, but it might have been just as good even without the snails, it was the smoky, blistered, crackly crust, and the fresh garlickiness that were the stars.

Nothing at all wrong with the snails though, we had some more with peas and pancetta on polenta, and they were even better in that comforting context. I'll spare you the visual, suffice it to say that it tasted better than it looked.

Delicate ravioli were filled with creamy Robiola cheese, topped with tender mushrooms. What else could that need? Butter...

As tasty as that was, the gnocchi secca might have outshone it: a simple, pleasingly firm pasta supporting pork and peas. Pretty close to perfect.

Like Brent said in his post above, I'm normally not fond of well-done lamb, but this version, Spiedini-style, worked for us, the nice crispy crust providing a pleasing texture we don't normally get with lamb.

In fact, we were commenting on how much this meal was about texture, how it was clearly as important as the flavors, in creating the overall wow factor we were experiencing. The pizza crust keeps getting better each time, and its airy crunch is largely what's making it so great. (and OK, we'll admit it, we got a Lombarda too, how could we not?) The pastas had a mouthfeel that was as distinctive as the tastes of the fillings and toppings.

Overall, a very enjoyable meal, with only a couple of small odd quirks, which I'll let my companions describe.

Edited April 16, 2007 by philadining (log)

[philadining]

Actually, as the keeper of the pix, I'll describe one quirk:

A couple of us decided to get glasses of Moscato, and got this:

Now, I'm not normally a glass-half-empty kind of guy, but isn't that glass kind-of half-empty? It seemed odd enough to us that we asked about it, and were told that because it was a dessert wine, it got a 3 oz pour. I think that makes sense for some intense, sweet, sticky dessert wine, but for something as light and quaffable as moscato, it just seems weird.

It's not a tragedy, it's an $8 glass of wine, but we felt like it would be better to have a more generous pour, even it it meant they had to charge a little more for it. It's pretty easy to burn through Moscato, it's not Port...

[dagordon]

Phil's descriptions of the food were right on. In case it isn't clear, this is their new spring menu. I was upset to see some favorites like the tripe and the candele disappear, but the quality of the food last night left no disappointment. This prompts the question: will V have to do another one of his now legendary five night in a row stints (or whatever it was when Osteria first opened) to get a complete sense of the new menu?

I'll just add that I found the flavor of the lamb very pleasing. "Muttony" is too strong a description, I think, but, well, it tasted like lamb, and it's pretty rare to get lamb these days that does.

Also, I'll emphasize just how delicate the ravioli were. It reminded me of this Halibut and Cod Brandade over polenta dish that we had at Vetri last summer, not at all in terms of flavor (thankfully) but rather in terms of sheer elegance.

Now, onto the quirks. Of what use would this forum be if we couldn't complain about every single misstep in an otherwise fantastic meal?

1. A 3oz pour is simply ridiculous for Moscato D'Asti. which can (and in this case WAS) being consumed as an aperitif.

2. At one point I was served a corked glass of Dolcetto; no big deal, it's not really their fault, and they promptly exchanged it. But at the end of the meal they brought out a complimentary glass of dessert wine and gave it to Vadouvan, who was with us, with apologies for having served a corked glass of wine. The gesture was nice, but we couldn't help but interpret it as "So sorry that your dining companion was served a corked glass of wine; here, have some dessert wine on us." Either give it to the whole table or make sure it gets to the person who was TCA assaulted.

3. The coconut gelato had a wickedly spicy finish that was not disclosed when it was described by our server. It was really weird, and I didn't care for it al all. No more spicy coconut gelato, please. Or, describe it as such.

[Rich Pawlak]

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Food porn at its most insidious.

[Vadouvan]

Can anyone explain to me the point of reposting pictures that are two replies away, I see this all the time and I dont get it, it just makes the thread confusing and loads the page slowly.....!

1. A 3oz pour is simply ridiculous for Moscato D'Asti. which can (and in this case WAS) being consumed as an aperitif.

Here are my thoughts Mr Gordon.

First of all the dinner was spectacular again, simply outstanding pastas.

Regarding the wine, one of the reasons i will never return to Tria again is this "dessert wine bias" that a lot of restaurants seem to engage in.

Not to go off thread from Osteria but it's a relative issue, say you walk into a place and order a bunch of cheeses that work with sweet wine, why should you be served half the volume of any other wine ?

There is no reason.

It's bullshit.

Unless it is the stickiest Pedro Ximenez or Emilio Lustau,Ports and such.

http://www.emilio-lustau.com/

http://www.pedroximenez.com/index_ing.htm

The concept of the tiny dessert wine glass is simply a crime and if one orders a glass of any of the following, IMO you should get a standard pour.

You are paying the standard price.

Sauternes

Barsac

Pineau de Charentes

Loupiac

Jurancon

Monbazillac

Recioto Soave

Banyuls

Muscats like Rivesaltes, St Jean de Minervois, Baumes de Venise

Which brings us back to Moscato D'Asti...

http://www.epicurious.com/drinking/wine/be...it_pied_muscato

David

The argument at Osteria was that Moscato is a dessert wine which is clearly not the case.

In fact, it primarily is an aperitif that works well as a dessert wine.

It's a sweet sparkling wine and should be poured as any other sparkling wine

Regardless of that when a customer walks in and orders a glass of Moscato to start, it *clearly* is an aperitif therefore the logic that we will only pour you half a glass because we classify it as a dessert is absurd.

If anything Italians dessert wines tend to be more Vin Santos and Recioto Soave type wines.

Moscato also isnt expensive at all so the cost issue ends up looking really chintzy.

Now I go to Mooore bros and get my wine, downtown for my cheese and have a good time.

This in no way affects my interest in Osteria, I fully intend to return several times, I dont even think the restaurant has solidified it's footing yet and most of the food is spectacular.

Edited April 16, 2007 by Vadouvan (log)

[rae]

That dinner at Osteria last night made me very happy (despite the poor start with the moscato). My favorites of the night were the Pizza Lombarda (of course!), the gnocchi seco and the lamb. The snail pizza was good, but pales in comparison to the Lombarda. I agree the snail app was a better snail rendition, although for some reason, sometimes snails remind me of soap...

The robiola ravioli were good, but we all agreed that we couldn't have eaten more than the 3 we each did. The dish oozed butter. I think it was primarily responsible for the butter-coma I had all day today.

The lamb, I thought, was perfect.

Overall a great meal. I do wish (and this may be just me) that they went a little lighter on the butter. I know most of you will probably disagree with me, but I love food and have a small stomach so lots of butter equals me being able to eat less (or just feeling sick afterwards).

The giving of the complimentary dessert wine to V for Mr Gordon's corked glass was absurd. We actually thought she was going to give us all a glass but just started with V because he was at the end. Not the case though.

Onto dessert. I *really* wanted a nutella pizza, but my dining companions were weak. V and Phil didn't even want dessert! David wanted something lighter and refreshing so he picked the coconut gelato. I added the pistachio (yummy) and the chocolate hazelnut (the best of the three) because we got three scoops.

David was the first to have the coconut gelato, and he had this very weird reaction to it. I tried it at his insistence and thought it tasted off (well just not very coconuty and refreshing) and then after I swallowed came the BLAST of spice. So unpleasant. I confronted the waiter asking, pray tell, what was in the coconut gelato? "Some crushed red pepper" something or other he replied. I suggested that he, you know, mention that instead of just saying "coconut gelato."

It was a sad way to end an otherwise really really really good meal.

Edited April 16, 2007 by rae (log)

[philadining]

... V and Phil didn't even want dessert!

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I have an excuse! The guys at Cantina los Caballitos fed me a really delicious, and huge, Turkey leg in red mole a few hours earlier. I really didn't need dinner at all, but you know, in the interest of research...

[philadining]

I neglected to mention that I asked the bartender to pour me something "interesting" and she did not disappoint. I really enjoyed this Rosato from Veneto (Bardolino Chiaretto D.O.C.) It's dry, yet fruity, it's got enough heft to drink with food, but might be even better as a summer refresher.

I'm planning on drinking lots more of this as it gets warmer (along with some of that Chateau Calissanne Rosé from Moore Bros.)

As the women next to me at the bar commented as I sipped that rosato, I must feel pretty secure about my masculinity. I think there was only a 47% chance that they were making fun of me.

[Vadouvan]

m planning on drinking lots more of this as it gets warmer (along with some of that Chateau Calissanne Rosé from Moore Bros.)

I cuncur.

Indeed rumor has it they will have outdoor seating too.

Speaking of Rosato

I cany wait to see what Marc and Jeff M will do with tomatoes when they are in season again.....

Waiting for some Buratta action at Osteria.....

[KatieLoeb]

m planning on drinking lots more of this as it gets warmer (along with some of that Chateau Calissanne Rosé from Moore Bros.)

I cuncur.

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The Calissane is the current rose by the glass at M. Stop by. I haven't seen your smiling face(s) in a while. Why don't you gentlemen detour by one evening soon?

[wkl]

"(along with some of that Chateau Calissanne Rosé from Moore Bros.) "

...didn't we all slug this down, a little while ago, with some bangin' food somewhere, ..............

[David McDuff]

I neglected to mention that I asked the bartender to pour me something "interesting" and she did not disappoint. I really enjoyed this Rosato from Veneto (Bardolino Chiaretto D.O.C.)  It's dry, yet fruity, it's got enough heft to drink with food, but might be even better as a summer refresher. 

I'm planning on drinking lots more of this as it gets warmer (along with some of that Chateau Calissanne Rosé from Moore Bros.)

As the women next to me at the bar commented as I sipped that rosato, I must feel pretty secure about my masculinity.  I think there was only a 47% chance that they were making fun of me.

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Not to worry, mate. Real men definitely drink rosé. This is starting to get off topic but if you like the Chiaretto and the Calissanne, you should also try "Cuvée le Chataignier" from Domaine de la Citadelle. Good juice.

[David McDuff]

Since I've just contributed to taking this thread a bit off topic, I'll do my best to bring it back around. I enjoyed a damn good meal at Osteria on Easter Sunday. Here are some of the specifics of the meal:

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After listening to the fairly extensive list of daily specials, we opted to work mostly from the regular menu, though it was tough to pass up the Easter special of stuffed spring lamb. My wife opted for an Antipasto and Primo combination; I went with a Primo and Secondo. Here’s what we ordered:

- Wood grilled octopus, cured lemon, potato and chives (antipasto)

- Candele with wild boar bolognese (primo)

- Capon tortellini with sage brown butter (special primo)

- “Casoeula” braised pork ribs and sausage with cabbage and soft polenta (secondo)

The clear standout was the wood grilled octopus. Nearly whole (headless) baby octopi, incredibly tender and flavorful, were paired with well-chosen flavor enhancers: slivers of preserved lemon, perfectly firm little cubes of potato and quality olive oil. The boar Bolognese served over candele – long, extruded pasta (think of extraordinarily lengthy ziti) – was comforting and hearty, only lightly influenced by tomato, much more highly informed by slow cooking and mellow seasoning. If there was any disappointment to be found, it was in the slightly under-seasoned tortellini. The pasta component was supremely delicate, as was the mild, tender capon filling. The aroma of ample, rich butter rose from the plate but its color and flavors were still on the fresh side, lacking the nutty depth of a well-browned butter sauce. And for me, the sage element was just a little too subtle. The braised pork ribs, offering a perfect balance between the heartiness of braising and the slightly lighter ingredients of encroaching spring, were done to fall-off-the-bone perfection. The rustic sausage, like all of the cured meats on the menu save the Prosciutto di Parma, is made in-house.

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The above is an excerpt from a longer piece describing the entire dining experience, Easter at Osteria.