Esca

[foodboy]

Would Esca be a good place for three people to eat if they are interested in sharing a variety of dishes? I understand the crudo can be ordered as a sampler for as many people as there are at the table, so that should be easy, but what about pasta and entrees?Would they be flexible about splitting dishes into thirds?

[robert brown]

If you Esca my advice, I wouldn't advise you to go there regardless. Of the three Joe & Mario's I have been to (Esca, Babbo, and Lupa) this is the one that failed to please me. I don't, however, remember the details. The chef was young (he came out to meet someone we were dining with) and obviously not too experienced. (I forgot where he had been where he wasn't in charge of the kitchen). But other people like it, so wait to see what other responses your thread elicits.

(Edited by robert brown at 11:54 pm on Jan. 3, 2002)

[lizm]

I understand that Esca has gotten some really good reviews, but I've also heard that it's pretty one-dimensional and that the service borders on rude.  Can someone provide me with a more up-to-date and thorough review?  Thanx!

[Mao]

The place, based on one dinner for 3 that I had last Sat, is absolutely superb, and I had no service problems, though on one occasion the kitchen wa s modestly slow.  

One dimensional is one way to describe the menu, focused might be another.  The menu consists of 4 sections.  The crudo section is entirely raw seafood goodies in various combinations, including oysters, razor clams etc.  Second section consists of various prepared, cooked, grilled dishes like octopus with grilled onions, calamari, 3rd section is pasta dishes that revolve around fish, and the last section is almost entirely prepared fish--we had turbot and sardines.  That's the basic structiue of the menu.  The wine list is offbeat and interesting Italian wines--lots of strange and curious things from Friuli, which are very rare in US, and almost none of the usual suspects like Chianti.

I guess you could call the place rather one dimensional--its not a good place to go if you feel the need for poultry, steak, lamb or snake.  But there are numerous seafood focused places in the city-Cello and Le Bernadin to name but two.  Oscars, 3/4ths of the Japanese places that I am addicted to....and so on.  You go in knowing this-its a fish place, as Spark's is a steak specialist.

I can't really review the thing based on one trip, but the meal we had was superb from end to end.  Two things--the Octopus and the razor clams were merely good, but every other dish had my entire table staring at each other and oohing and ahhing.

[lizm]

How big are the portions?  For example, is the crudo tasting meant to be an entiee meal or just an appetizer size?  Would one order an appetizer, pasta, and something else, or would that be too much?  And one final question: what are desserts like?

[lizm]

Has nobody had experiences with this restaurant?  :(

[tommy]

i've eaten at the bar, so i can't really speak to portion sizes.  i'd imagine they are not much different from other restaurants of that calibre.  i'd say that an app, pasta, and entree would be too much.  

[Steve Plotnicki]

I can't tell you if it's worth it. One thing for sure, Mario Batalli is entitled to a premium for his name. so assume it's pricey. But I have a small nit to pick with both Esca and Babbo in that they feel sort of generic to me. Like what they would like to do is great, but for me the edge is off. It's probably because they have to serve too many meals a night. Also, he isn't there every night. I mean is he at Babbo, Lupa, Esca, filming for the food channel, being a celeb elsewhere? I mean his celebrity is fine with me but, I think the food would have a better edge to it if he was stationary as a chef. But other than these nits, you can eat well at any of these places.

I sort of like Lupa the best for some reason. It is sans pretension. And I've been meaning to book the large table they have and make a big shindig there. But they do not allow BYO and that is usually a non-starter for me so I haven't done it. To drink the level wine we would like to drink, one they don't have it on their list and two, the cost would be prohibitive if we had to pay restaurant prices.

I guess now that I'm writing this there's another issue that prevents me from frequenting the places(s). Because of his popularity on the food channel, there is too much competition for space there. If I was willing to make a commitment to eating at say Babbo every week or so, after 2-3 months I would become a regular and I could probably get a table with just a phone call. But I don't think the food is good enough, or unusual enough to make that commitment. And both times I went to Babbo I bought a pretty expensive bottle of wine, usually a sure fire way for the Maitre 'd to come over, chat with you and take note of who you are and put you on the special customer list. But it didn't happen. I say this not to act like I'm entitled, but to point out that the din that those restaurants have created, and which one has to overcome in order to eat there (reserve far in advance,) is disproportionate to the quality and scope of the food. And that is a turnoff to me. Gee this give me an idea for a whole new thread.

[cabrales]

I had dinner at Esca's bar recently. The menu is identical to that for the restaurant; the approximately 10 seat bar is first-come first-served. Even though the meal included a comparison of sockeye and king salmon from the Copper River, it was only average and not necessarily good value-for-money.

Below were the dishes taken in:

-- Geoduck, Two-Minute Ceviche of Giant Clam with Chilis, Scallions and Mint ($13; part of the crudo section of the menu)

-- 1/2 Polipo, Grilled Octupus with Giant Corona Beans and Preserved Sorrento Lemon (Around 11)

-- 1/2 Copper River Sockeye, with Local Spinach and Larate Potatoes (29.99)

-- 1/2 Copper River Red King, with Royal Trumpet Mushrooms and Roasted Spring Onion (31.00)

          Quartini (approx. 1/5 glasses) of Rodero Arneis Brovia 2000, from Piedmonte (13.00)

The geoduck ceviche was average. (See "Geoduck" under "Canada" -- not linked).  That the goeduck had been cut into relatively fine julienne did not assist the diner to sample the textural differences that are an important part, in my mind, of savouring geoduck --  a food product I like considerably (when sliced and cooked slightly due to very rapid immersion in bouillon). The EVOO utilized was somewhat too thick, resulting in a heaviness in the mouth of the ceviche and an uneasy melding with included lemon jus. The chilis were appropriately finely diced and mild, and the inclusion of mint could not be said to be inappropriate. However, the overall effect of the EVOO was a heaviness that was difficult to take in at the same time as the mint. Not a preparation that helped display the best qualities of geoduck. However, geoduck is not frequently found in NYC restaurants and Esca's inclusion of this item on its menu is a useful step presumably.

The octupus dish was poor. There were presented three large tentacles with some portion of the suction pods attached. The octupus was overcooked, and had an unattractive "mushy" texture. In addition, there was too strong a taste of charring (with almost a burnt connotation) that was not balanced by the Sorrento lemons (not noticeable in the dish). The large beans were unusual-looking, although their taste was not atyical of white beans.

My dining companion and I each ordered a different type of Copper River Salmon and then exchanged halves of the thick grilled fish filets. The dining room team member did a good job of informing diners of the limited duration (described as 2-3 weeks -- is this accurate?) and special aspects of the CRS season.  See "Copper River Salmon" under "Pacific Northwest" for background on this salmon -- not linked.

The CRS Red King my dining companion ordered was not particularly tasting, even though CRS is generally special. This was my first sampling of CRS Red King. Perhaps it was the cooking level (medium, higher than the medium rare recommended by the restaurant) my dining companion chose that adversely affected the sampling of the specialness of the CRS Red King flesh. It seemed somehow more like regular salmon than I had imagined. The royal trumpet mushrooms (in sections) were large and textured, but lacked the delicacy of, for example, black trumpets. I was slightly disappointed.

The CRS sockeye I ordered was better, with features that distinguished it from regular salmon (including a natural, vibrantly reddish color, and some smoothness and butteriness). Nonetheless, the fish seemed almost rare in cooking level, instead of the agreed upon medium rare. I was happy I had ordered this dish, but it was not very appealing to me for some reason. :confused: Although I am ordinarily in support of simple cooking preparations that allow the flavor of products to express themselves, the CRS sockeye could have done with a bit extra in the grilling method and/or a bit more seasoning (nothing complicated, though).

Overall, an average meal. Note that I intend to return to sample the flight of six crudos.

Menu Observations

As other members have noted, the crudos section of Esca's menu appears to contain more interesting items. On the evening of visit, there were three types of oysters (including Fanny Bay) offered in the crudos section (minimum purchase of six). The following crudo dishes were also offered: (1) pink snapper with red clay salt, (2) black bass with toasted pinenuts, (3) fluke with sea beans and radish, (4) Copper River King Salmon roe, with lemon, (5) Oregon Chinook salmon with dill, and (6) striped bass with Geata olive aioli.  There is a crudo tasting of six types of crudos in two flights ($30/person, offered for the entire table). A preliminary inquiry suggested that, at the bar, the "entire table" rule may not require that all diners order the crudo tasting.

There was a six-course tasting menu at $65 ($95 with wine pairings). In this context, for an additional $25, five extra crudo tastings could be obtained.

Decor and Service

The service at the bar was friendly. The seating in the bar area was not poor, with bar stools that had some back support and with a nice expanse of crushed ice on which were placed any oysters (in a row), etc., that were ordered. One's bottled water and glass containers with quartinos would be placed into the crushed ice as well.  

The overall decor is average. The primary room (the room without the bar) has somewhat better atmosphere (and is slightly less bright) than the other room.

[Liza]

I'll note the geoducks are available at local farmer's markets so their inclusion or omission on local menus is most likely not due to availability. I'm guessing it's a visual turn-off, hence the slicing and dicing you found at Esca.

And oh those Fanny Bays...second only to Evening Cove to my palate.

[stefanyb]

The geoduck ceviche was average. (See "Geoduck" under "Canada" -- not linked).  That the goeduck had been cut into relatively fine julienne did not assist the diner to sample the textural differences that are an important part, in my mind, of savouring geoduck --  a food product I like considerably (when sliced and cooked slightly due to very rapid immersion in bouillon).

My CRS will be arriving by overnight fedex any day now.  I'll report on that when I've received and eaten it.  As I sit here and post, I'm not absolutely sure what variety of salmon it will be, I'm embarrassed to say, but I will find out.  I ordered it last year and it was stupendous.  I steamed it with scallion jullienne and ate it with gusto.

Also, how come geoduck is pronounced "gooey duck"?

[Jinmyo]

Note that I intend to return to sample the flight of six crudos.

Noted.

And thank you for the excellent review.

[Beachfan]

How was the wine?

[cabrales]

Beachfan -- The wine was alright -- not particularly interesting on the nose or in the mouth, but an appropriate accompaniment for the food. A very quick review of the Esca wine list suggested it offered at least predominantly, if not exclusively, Italian wines. The quartinos of white wine were priced in the approx. $11-25 range. Note my knowledge about Italian wines is extremely limited.  

[Rail Paul]

Thank you for such a detailed and flowing description of your meal!

Your powers of observation and description are very impressive. May I ask if you draw from real time observations, or do you rely on memory?

[Wilfrid]

Geoducks are also readily available in Chinatown.  I was strongly tempted by the geoduck at Esca, but the monkfish liver with rhubarb won out over all the crudo plates.

I must admit, I had trouble with the wine list.  Pretty much exclusively Italian, and just about nothing I had ever heard of.  My ignorance, no doubt, but I really had to leave it to the wine waiter.

[cabrales]

May I ask if you draw from real time observations, or do you rely on memory?

Rail Paul -- Thanks.   I recently answered a similar question from Stefany. I take notes during a meal, and am aided by other factors. See the below link:

http://forums.egullet.org/ikonboa....;t=6943

[Beachfan]

Beachfan -- The wine was alright -- not particularly interesting on the nose or in the mouth, but an appropriate accompaniment for the food. A very quick review of the Esca wine list suggested it offered at least predominantly, if not exclusively, Italian wines. The quartinos of white wine were priced in the approx. $11-25 range. Note my knowledge about Italian wines is extremely limited.  

I know a fair amount about Italian wines, and I am in unfamiliar territory on their list.  Which is good.   I got a chardonnay from Trentino there that was excellent for the price ($40).  

I love their quartino approach; most places give you crap for that price.  I go nuts seeing mediocre California Cab for $17 a glass.

Did you ask the sommelier for a recommendation?

[cabrales]

Did you ask the sommelier for a recommendation?

Beachfan -- The individual behind the bar, who was also my server, provided the recommendation. He seemed enthusiastic, if not well-versed in the specifics of less commonly found grape varieties.  

[tommy]

the waiter the last time i was there seemed knowledgeable enough about the offerings by the glass.  i was happy with his suggestion.

there is a new thread on the media board about david lynch's new book on wine.  he is the wine guy at babbo, and seems to know quite a bit about the italian varietals.  the book has an impressive "thud" factor as well.  click here for that thread.

i'm looking forward to digging into this thing as i only know those 2 'B' wines and chianti.  

[mamster]

Here's an interesting little column by my colleague at the Seattle Times;  it seems almost designed to provoke opinion on this forum, so have at it.

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html....29.html

[tommy]

esca is designed for people who are predisposed to either loving it, or hating it.

[Bux]

Gael Greene doesn't write for the New Yorker, other than that I didn't find the article very provocative. There's little I can put my full support behind more than a well expressed "it's all relative." Nancy Leson very professionally managed to avoid offering an opinion as to whether she thought her sister and friends or the critics were right. About the only thing she left out of caveat to critics is that readers also have some responsibility in choosing what to read and to whom they listen.

[Jinmyo]

Thanks for the link, mamster.

[cabrales]

. . . it was only average and not necessarily good value-for-money. . . . Note that I intend to return to sample the flight of six crudos.

Menu Observations

As other members have noted, the crudos section of Esca's menu appears to contain more interesting items. On the evening of visit, there were three types of oysters (including Fanny Bay) offered in the crudos section (minimum purchase of six). The following crudo dishes were also offered: (1) pink snapper with red clay salt, (2) black bass with toasted pinenuts, (3) fluke with sea beans and radish, (4) Copper River King Salmon roe, with lemon, (5) Oregon Chinook salmon with dill, and (6) striped bass with Geata olive aioli.  There is a crudo tasting of six types of crudos in two flights ($30/person, offered for the entire table).

Wilfrid and I had a poor lunch at Esca today, at prices that could have purchased better food.

The restaurant was very slow during lunch, but we did not mind as we were happily chatting away. The amuse was bruscetta with a blush-colored smearing of mackerel mixed with soft beans. It was average. We each ordered the crudo appetizer consisting of three small (i.e., quantities comparable to 1-1.5 sashimi slices each) servings of the raw items described below. The three items were lodged in indentations along a single translucent long, rectangular glass plate, with crushed ice for visual effect beneath.

(1) Tilefish with sea salt -- This was poor; too heavily salted by a considerable margin.  Wilfrid and I agreed that the ability to sample the flesh of the tilefish was precluded by the overslating. There also appeared to be a bit of pepper in this item. The three crudos all were weighed down by a relatively thick-consistency olive oil that, to me, was unattractive. The utilization of the olive oil in all three also made the three less distinct than one would have liked.

(2) Fluke with sea beans and radish -- This crudo was the best of the three presented. Nonetheless, it was slightly oversalted, and was nothing special. The sea beans were fine, and the thin slices of small radish mitigated against the saltiness.

(3) Yellowtail -- This was alright, and had an interesting textural component from the bit of creamy item on top of the fish fillet.

I was disappointed with the crudos.

The lobster spaghetti with chilli and mint I ordered was passable. The lobster was described as being from Maryland, and as being 1 lb. The meat was not overcooked, and was appropriate (but nothing special). Pieces of lobster were presented in their shell, cut into sections. The pasta was alright, and did carry a taste of shellfish and some type of alcohol that was not unappealing. It was a tomato-based sauce, and the mint was appropriately subdued (but capable of being tasted).  An average entree.

Unfortunately, Wilfrid's bacalau (sic) -- salted cod -- was very pooor. The dish was described as cold marinated salted cod.  Small square filets of the salted cod was presented in cold temperature, with dashes of balsamic vinegar that could not assist with the significant over-salted taste of the fish.  Wilfrid has acknowledged, upon ordering, that salted cod is a dish that does not always get executed properly, but this was poor indeed.  Two quartini of Italian whites (including the Arneis I had had last time) were shared.

The shared dessert was a trio of sorbets. The rasberry rhubarb did not contain rhubarb tastes, and was so-so. The lemon campari was nice, but the best was the pink grapefruit. Fresh and gentle-tasting.

Overall, a disappointing meal.  :confused: