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Merchant House/Hibiscus

Tonyfinch
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Tonyfinch

Tonyfinch

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I'm off to Ludlow next week Booked into Hibiscus on Tuesday night but couldn't get into The Merchant House the next night-they're fully booked for the next couple of weeks.

I don't want to go to that third Michelin place(Mr. Underhill's?) since it offers no choice on the menu.

Does anyone know of anywhere else really good to eat? Doesn't have to be in Ludlow itself but somewhere in that general neck of the woods .

Suggestions gratefully received

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John Whiting

John Whiting

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Tony -

I haven't eaten here, but I will the weekend of the Ludlow Food Fair. I was too late for Underhill's. The place belongs to relatives of a friend (who's a food writer) and she thinks well of it. Chef is Swiss-trained. It's about nine miles from Ludlow. I imagine it's a pleasant place.

http://jolly-frog.com

Edit: Of course we're at Merchant House and Hibiscus the other two nights.

John Whiting, London

Whitings Writings

Top Google/MSN hit for Paris Bistros

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Andy Lynes

Andy Lynes

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What about the Marches restaurant at Overton Grange in Ludlow. It's where Bosi used to cook. I honestly have no idea whether it's any good or not or who the current chef is but it's a possible I suppose.

The other place is The Waterdine, owned by Ken Oakes (?), who used to own the property that Hibiscus now resides in. I think but am not at all sure, that he had a star there, or was certainly featured in the Michelin guide. here's a link with some basic contact info. You'll need to scroll down a bit http://www.fatbadgers.co.uk/shropshire.htm

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Andy Lynes

Andy Lynes

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Anybody heard of Chavignol at Shipston 0n Stour? It's got a Michelin star apparently.

Here's a recent-ish article from caterer http://www.caterer.com/archive/articledeta...articleID=38428

They have a website at http://www.chavignol.co.uk

In the same general area is the Kings Arms in Chipping Campden where the head chef is Graham Grafton (it may be worth checking to see if he is still there), a former head chef at The Greenhouse, sous chef to Henry Harris at Fifth Floor (where I met him) and senior member of Simon Hopkinsons brigade at Bibendum where he worked alongside Harris, Phil Howard, Bruce Poole et al.

Some basic info : http://www.chippingcampden.co.uk/ccrests.htm you'll need to scroll down.

If you are travelling around a bit what about The Walnut Tree Inn http://www.walnuttree.co.uk/ (a favourite of Claude and Clare's at Hibiscus by the way).

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Tonyfinch

Tonyfinch

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Had a fine meal at Hibiscus this week. What a terrific restaurant. It's small but feels spacious thanks to the very generous table spacing,the wood panelling chimes with the town style but also gives a warm cossetting feel ,and the lighting and other aspects of the decor have all been tastefully thought through.

No question of any table turning here,even though there aren't lots of tables. Lots of passing trade was being turned away. Claire Bose later told us that her and Claude wanted customers to relax for the whole evening and linger as they wished. Refreshing or what?

Claire is your perfect front of house. Warm, friendly, relaxed, helpful, she and one French assistant worked the room superbly, giving everyone the right degree of attention, explaining the menu and making perceptive wine suggestions when asked (the wine list is the least greedily marked up I've seen in ages- Chateau Musar '96 was in really fine nick and at £25 even a constant wine mark up whinger like me felt chuffed). Claire's unusual choice of a glass of Canadian Ice Wine (musn't say Eiswein) to go with dessert was also spot on.

We considered the nine course tasting menu (£47) but I was a gonner for the carte (£32.50 for three courses) once I saw Roast Suckling Pig with Puree of Muscovado Sugar,Confit of Shallots and Carrots as a main course. One rarely sees suckling pig on a French menu in Britain and Claude later told us that he'd had trouble persuading local farmers to "bash their pigs on the head so young". The meat had all that moist milky richness so rarely found in ordinary roast pork and the crackling was like a crunchy creme brulee topping-wonderful.

Our starters-Foie Gras skewered on a Fresh Liquorice Stick. Pear and Lemon Confit.

Crispy Galette of Pig's Trotters ,Sweetcorn and Parsley,Smoked Beurre Blanc

Main-Roast Pigeon,with a Gratin of Sweet Chard and Summer Truffle, Froth of Eucalyptus Milk-the pigeon was gamey and meltingly tender, the gratin was ever so slightly watery and separated

For dessert we had a marvellous Confit (confit is a word used pretty liberally on the menu)of Rhone Valley Peach with Brioche Ice Cream, and an Espresso Sorbet with Whisky Creme Anglaise and a Warm Chocolate Madelaine-featherlight and scrummy.

Faults? Apart from the watery gratin just a slight tentativeness with seasoning. I have no problem with restaurants that don't put out salt and pepper on the tables but in that case you have to get it spot on and I felt that Claude was erring on the side of caution . A couple of other potentially bold flavours were SO subtle as to be (to me anyway) barely noticeable, but my wife disagreed and I'll defer to her more nuanced palate.

Despite being busy Claire always had a moment to chat and Claude emerged at the end of the evening. Conversation was warm and amicable until I made the mistake of mentioning Andy's name whereupon a distinct frostiness descended upon proceedings...........

It seems to me that this restaurant is running at peak form. Claire said that the last couple of years had "flown by"-a sure sign that her and Claude are enjoying their work. As she waved away our attempts to pay a service charge ("its all included")we discussed whether it was possible for a young husband and wife team to ever run such a place in London. Claire thought definitely not-overheads, pressure, staffing problems etc. Looks like we're going to be beating the path to Ludlow for a while longer.

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Tonyfinch

Tonyfinch

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Forgot to mention the bill. Two cartes plus two bottles of wine plus one glass dessert wine plus coffee with homemade chocolates,a couple of cognacs,two pre-starters,one pre dessert,excellent breads-a terrific evening lasting 3 and a half hours- £138 for two. Is there a better value French restaurant in the country just now?

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Andy Lynes

Andy Lynes

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Conversation was warm and amicable until I made the mistake of mentioning Andy's name whereupon a distinct frostiness descended upon proceedings...........

They still haven't forgiven me? Some people....

Very glad to hear that you enjoyed the meal though. Just out of interest, did they still have the third, shorter tasting menu option?

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tim young

tim young

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Alison and I had two excellent meals in Ludlow this week, staying at no 28 (recommended, although shortly to reduce its B&B capacity as Patricia Ross sells off two of her three terraced houses). We ate at Hibiscus on Tuesday and the Merchant's House on Wednesday. Tony Finch's review of Hibiscus was spot on and enormously helpful. In fact, I suggested to Claire that she should look it up on these boards and she made a note of the website: I hope the matter of the andouillette is buried. Hibiscus is clearly humming along and the suckling pig was outstanding. We also particularly liked the starter of ravioli with white onion and bean. Claire recommended a pinot noir which was one of the cheapest wines on the list and matched our food beautifully. The breads deserve a special mention: I cannot remember better in a restaurant. The appetisers were also great, a melon soup before starting and strawberries with pepper before pudding. It is a restaurant at the top of its form, service is just right and it is remarkably reasonable.

As was the Merchant's House the following night (again around £50 a head with everything), but this was a different experience. Presentation and delight in what the restaurant is doing are much more to the fore at Hibiscus, but the cooking at the Merchant's House is really distinguished by its care and focus. Simple descriptions on the menu, comparatively unadorned food, great taste. I had sauteed monkfish and roast grouse, Alison had a memorable quail risotto followed by brill. Puddings of raspberry creme brulee and apricot and almond tart maintained the standard and the apricot's flavour was superbly drawn out. Service was rather flat and low-key, particularly in comparison with Hibiscus.: the waitress had no real thoughts on suitable wine. The food was great on both nights, but the overall experience was more enjoyable at Hibiscus. For that reason, we felt we would return to one but not the other when next visiting Ludlow, particularly since the area has other possibilities. Many thanks to Tony for giving us some pointers!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Bapi

Bapi

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Help

Booked for Dinner at Hibiscus on 25th October and just scrapped in for lunch only at The Merchant House on 26th October (a dinner reservation on a Saturday is non starter until next year now!) .

My problem is that I am having difficulty in finding anywhere reasonably priced to stay (Not The Feathers) I need two double rooms in a B&B, or a cottage with the same capacity. Can anyone who has stayed recently recommend anywhere to me please?

Many thanks

Ps Tony F. thanks for the link earlier :laugh:

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John Whiting

John Whiting

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'Eight Dinham' is both the name of the B&B and its address. It's where we always stay -- a quiet street just a few steps from the castle and the central square. Fifteen to twenty minutes stroll from Hibiscus. Two bedrooms with double beds and one with twins. £27.50 per person per night, double occupancy. Enquiries to Angela or David Edwards, Tel 01584 875661.

John Whiting, London

Whitings Writings

Top Google/MSN hit for Paris Bistros

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Bapi

Bapi

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John W- many thanks for your advice, I did try Eight Dinham many times yesterday but failed to get any answer. In any case we are now booked in elsewhere, so thank you.

ScottF- Great minds think alike. You and your missus are dining in the reverse order to us. However, I too have concluded that a pub-crawl may well be apposite on the Saturday after lunch at The Merchant House!

As you are going two weeks before us, I would be very grateful for your comments and recommendations as to what you ate and enjoyed at Hibiscus and The Merchant House.

A few suggestions as to the pubs you visit on Saturday wouldn't go amiss either.

Have a good time. (PS - Try the Unicorn next to The Merchant House).

Cheers

:raz:

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